Disher Review #12: Fearing’s

You know, all you really have to do is go to one of the best restaurants in Dallas to have no complaints.  Last night we dined at Fearing’s and  I have to say that I loved every minute of it.  Fearing’s is very “Dallas”.  Nice cars, beautiful people, stylish clothes and a certain buzz that brings the room to life.  The restaurant and bar are a treat visually.  But, it’s that buzz that makes it special.  People want to be there and are having a very good time.  Dean Fearing appeared at the table just as we were settling in.  He’s such a happy looking person and it’s nice to be greeted by one of the most famous Dallas chefs around.  It is a touch that makes a difference in how people feel to be at Fearing’s.

We had great and unpretentious service.  Hubbard pointed out that the ratio of staff to guest was very high.  Tall, too.  There were an amazing amount of really tall men.  I was kind of fascinated by that.  Anyway, the service was very good.  We started with the best sangria I have ever had in life.  Sapphire Sangria is a blend of blueberry-infused Bombay Sapphire with Disaronno Amaretto and Spanish Rioja.  Fabulous.  I think Bill Addison once refered to a sangria as chug-able.  This was that.  Way chug-able.  The whole blueberries were a nice touch and tasty.

The four of us split our choices between the Caesar salad and Dean’s tortilla soup.  Never having been to the Mansion when Fearing was there, I had not sampled his famed tortilla soup.  How could I pass it up?  It’s the broth that sets it apart.  The chicken and other additions are served in a fairly huge bowl.  The broth is poured over the other ingredients at the table.  It’s dense, not a watery broth and it’s full of flavor.  Though I’ve had some really good tortilla soup around Dallas, I now understand how this soup gained it’s devoted fans.  Dean blazed some culinary trails in these parts and Dallas isn’t quick to forget a good thing.  The Caesar salad was served with a smoky red chili dressing, grilled radicchio, baby romaine and San Pedro cheese.  I stole a bite off Hub’s plate.  Fun.  But, I was happier with the soup.

We got a very reasonable bottle of $26 Nugan, Cabernet Sauvignon to go with our next choices.  Three of us went with the chili braised short ribs.  Jean, the only one of us who had been to Fearing’s previously, chose the ancho/orange brined pork tenderloin.  I know, I should have tried something different.  I just had short rib earlier in the week at the Mansion.  But, I couldn’t resist.  I love short ribs.  And I really loved these short ribs.  Served over a pile of queso fresco whipped potatoes and topped with crispy tobacco onions… fantastic.  I never even touched my knife.  Everyone commented on how the fried onions complimented the flavor of the dish and gave it a comforting touch.  I only tasted one bite of the pork, served on a smoky poblano puree and heirloom tomato/avocado relish.  I loved the freshness of the relish.  The pork was very good, too.

The waiter came by, “Do you want coffee with dessert or would you rather stick with the grape juice?”  We ordered another bottle of the Cab to go with our dark chocolate cake with white chocolate mousse.  The dessert was the only course with no other options.  But, come on, you don’t want dark chocolate cake with white chocolate mousse?  Cornelia and I couldn’t finish our desserts.   Luckily we had tablemates that were glad to take up the slack.  It was totally yummy.  We agreed that more of the chocolate and cherry sauces that were spooned on each side of the cake would have made it even better.  I often end up wanting more of good things.

The scene was just too fabulous to abandon.  After dinner, we sauntered out to the patio to take advantage of the unseasonably cool weather.  Cosmo in hand.  Signed menu in my purse.  Tonight, we were some of those beautiful people.