Wednesday, May 22, 2024 May 22, 2024
81° F Dallas, TX
Restaurant Reviews

Mini Review: Nonna


Maybe it’s because I have eaten so much mediocre food lately or perhaps it is just the simple fact that chef Julian Barsotti’s cooking is homemade sausage and lobster tails above the rest in town. Last night three of us grazed our way around the short menu: started with a thin, oh-so-thin pizza topped with dollops of melted fontina Val d’Aosta, shiitake and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, and sprinkles of fresh thyme. A wild arugula and wilder frisee salad was tossed with local figs, thin slices of crispy pancetta, and Texas goat cheese. The Meyer Ranch rib-eye is a steak you must try–it’s doused with old balsamic and cooked in the wood-burning pizza oven and served with arugula and cranberry beans. Best steak I’ve had all year. But the pasta, as soft and translucent as Nicole Kidman’s skin, is what Dallas has been looking for: a plate filled with two rows of anolini stuffed with fresh Maine lobster and swimming in a rich butter sauce–each bite is filled with rich, sweet, and salty flavors. Divinity on a plate. Reservations, for sure. 4115 Lomo Alto Drive. 214-521-1800. (My bad on the photo.)