Restaurant Review: Mesero

It appears Mico Rodriguez, the co-founder of Mi Cocina who is no longer affiliated with the chain, is preparing a roll-out for Mesero, his Tex-Mex restaurant with an American accent (read: hot dogs and steaks). Perhaps Rodriguez should pay a little more attention to detail. A recent visit to the Inwood Village location was disappointing. Rodriguez’s eye for design is evident. The restaurant has a clean, modern look with dark wood paneling. But the setting was marred by a dirty floor and several torn shades across the front windows. When seated, the guests are presented with an attractive selection of three salsas and a small container of corn tortilla chips. Unfortunately, the salsas lacked any distinguishing flavors. We ordered the queso with white cheese, and it arrived hot, almost bubbling. The puerco pasilla was lovingly prepared and the meat was fall-apart tender, but the taste of uncooked chile powder lingered on the palate. An order of delicious cheese enchiladas was oddly presented on top of the beans. These missteps aren’t costing Mesero yet. It’s crowded and loud, and the margaritas flow like water. And the servers try to turn your table every 30 minutes. What else would you expect from Rodriguez?