Restaurant Review: Rise No. 1

This intimate spot in Inwood Village is one of the quietest places to dine in Dallas. The room is divided by birch trees swathed in twinkling white lights, and chances are good you can find a small nook to enjoy a conversation and a meal. Owner Hedda Dowd’s love and sharp eye for all things French shows in every detail. The French antiques, linens, mismatched silverware, and salt and pepper cellars are not only functional, they are for sale. Her partner and chef, Cherif Brami, sticks to the original menu behind the restaurant: a short list of savory and sweet soufflés, French and local cheeses, salads, soups, and a nice 6-ounce filet with pomme frites. The rich brown broth of the onion soup glistens beneath a just-right layer of melted Gruyère. Unlike other versions in town, this bowl is virtually salt free. Baby greens mixed with blue cheese, slices of Granny Smith apple, and roasted pecans are tossed in the signature pecan vinaigrette, which is also available for purchase. Recently, a jambon and Gruyère soufflé was moist and airy, while a creamed spinach soufflé sunk into a gloppy mess. The apricot soufflé we ordered for dessert stood tall and firm, right down to the last swipe of the spoon. Dowd’s wine list is full of French wines and Champagnes, and she offers a large selection of Rosés.