Restaurant Review: ¡C. Señor!

It’s hard to believe that yuca fries aren’t supposed to taste this good. They’re
supposed to be mealy and dense, fried to the point of blandness. They’re supposed to be pushed aside on the plate, and when the waitress asks, “Done?” you’re supposed to say, “Yes, please.” They’re not supposed to be light on the inside and crunchy on the outside, covered in lime and chile, and served with a bouncy mango ketchup. But then again, ¡C. Señor! is full of surprises. When El Padrino closed its doors in 2012, Bishop Arts lost one of the last vestiges of the pre-gentrified neighborhood, but the Cuban take-out stand with limited outdoor seating has filled the small kitchen more than admirably. There are some misses on the menu—the turkey sandwich is one-note and overpowered by the sweetness of the bread—but everything else shines. The burger is a crusty blend of beef and chorizo, caramelized with a spicy ketchup while grilled. The flag-bearing Cuban is balanced with the unctuousness of the thick ham and shredded pork and the tart brightness of the pickles and mustard. Light plantain chips can take the place of the yuca fries for more health-conscious eaters. (But you should really eat the yuca fries.)