Restaurant Review: Grace

Much like its name implies, this handsome downtown Fort Worth restaurant is effortless, exuding a warmth that makes patrons feel instantly at home. It’s perfect for a dressy dinner out or casual bites with friends. Likewise, executive chef Blaine Staniford pairs familiar faces such as steaks and scallops with trendier choices. North Dakota bison tartare with a quail egg, charred onions, pickled mushrooms, and shaved pecorino was delicious on the fork but was overwhelmed by the oily and salty ciabatta bread that came with it. Simple rye toast points would have been better. Chilled corn and lobster soup needed a pinch of salt to heighten the flavors. A mammoth 16-ounce, double-cut Duroc pork chop was cooked a perfect medium. Spicy Tasso ham pan jus and fried okra made this dish a homey standout, but the tiny rock shrimp were unnecessary, adding nothing to the dish. Perfection was found, however, with Grace’s Japanese-style fried chicken. Staniford uses vodka in his batter, giving the chicken an extra crispy skin that held up well to the toasted bird’s eye chile sauce and yuzu aioli that slathered the succulent bird. A perfect balance of sweet, sour, and spice, Grace’s fried chicken was comforting, with style to spare—much like the restaurant itself.