Saturday, April 20, 2024 Apr 20, 2024
60° F Dallas, TX
Advertisement
Publications

Restaurant Review: El Ranchito

This delicious taste of northern Mexico doesn't disappoint.
|
Image
Photography by Kevin Marple

You go to this popular North Oak Cliff restaurant for two things—the cabrito and the kitsch—and neither disappoint. Owner Laura Sanchez packs this ode to her Northern Mexican heritage with as much homespun eye candy as possible. There’s even a nightly strolling mariachi band. To outsiders, El Ranchito veers dangerously close to theme park territory. But for the Hispanic community that packs this 30-year-old institution night after night, El Ranchito is both vibrant and homey. Happily, the restaurant is all business when it comes to its delicious Monterrey-inspired cuisine. The aforementioned cabrito (grilled baby goat) is served two ways: family style over an open flame or a normal entrée-size portion braised in a bright, tomato-based sauce. We wrapped the tender meat in freshly made corn tortillas and greedily devoured them. Other highlights included chile ancho-marinated pork loin, guiso picoso (a spicy beef stew), and a whole fried catfish. That last one wasn’t a surprise. Sanchez also owns both La Calle Doce locations, serving some of the city’s finest Mexican seafood dishes. Granted, there were a few missteps. Mollejas (sweetbreads) tasted of old grease. Chicken enchiladas were far too mushy. And margaritas were either watery (on the rocks) or flavorless (a frozen mango version). Still, El Ranchito’s good times were contagious, making it easy to overlook the occasional mistake. Even better, the food—much like the restaurant itself—felt like home, full of life.

For more information about El Ranchito visit our online restaurant guide.

Related Articles

Image
Home & Garden

A Look Into the Life of Bowie House’s Jo Ellard

Bowie House owner Jo Ellard has amassed an impressive assemblage of accolades and occupations. Her latest endeavor showcases another prized collection: her art.
Image
Dallas History

D Magazine’s 50 Greatest Stories: Cullen Davis Finds God as the ‘Evangelical New Right’ Rises

The richest man to be tried for murder falls in with a new clique of ambitious Tarrant County evangelicals.
Image
Home & Garden

The One Thing Bryan Yates Would Save in a Fire

We asked Bryan Yates of Yates Desygn: Aside from people and pictures, what’s the one thing you’d save in a fire?
Advertisement