When this San Antonio-based pizza palace announced it was coming to Dallas, fans of authentic Pizza Napoletana stalked the construction site until the doors were open. The Dallas Dough follows the strict guidelines set forth by the Italian government for certification as a true L’Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana kitchen (but at this point, only the San Antonio location is licensed). To pizza lovers, that’s a big deal. I don’t think the masses who inhabit this cozy spot on a regular basis really care. They love to watch the show: guys in matching caps bob around the area in front of the wood-burning oven, tossing circles of dough into the air. The thin-crust combination pies take only 90 seconds to cook. The Pork Love (salami, sausage, pancetta, and speck with a layer of tomato sauce and mozzarella) is indulgent. The pie was devoured by our group as fast as it was cooked. The 12-inch pizza—which could be eaten by one person or split by two if you ordered a salad—is $17.99. Additional toppings are also pricey: olives ($3), artichokes ($4), white anchovies ($6). But the almost-fine-dining prices are paired with top-notch service. Servers have been educated on the appropriate-for-the-food wine list. The much ballyhooed mozzarella and burrata bar didn’t impress me. The house-made burrata, filled with butternut squash, caramelized onions, and mascarpone, was too sweet. The mozzarella, rolled with arugula, prosciutto, and Parmigiano-Reggiano and sliced into canape-size disks, was too cold. But the abundant supply of fresh, doughy flatbread painted with olive oil and topped with fresh oregano, thyme, a light dusting of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and sea salt was just right.
For more information about Dough Pizzeria Napoletana, visit our restaurant guide.