Raise the flag on the rebirth of the corner of Greenville and Goodwin streets, as Rohst—a three-level, Korean-inspired grill—gains traction in the spot where Hurricane Grill and Mick’s once stood. The design is comfy-chic, with a two-story mosaic, rough-hewn wood accents, stone flooring, and drum chandeliers. And though die-hards might yelp that the fare is not Korean enough, we found each dish to be a delightful window into Korean fusion. Try the dense and savory Korean BBQ beef balls, a bowl of scallion-garnished meatballs in a semisweet, dark sauce. It was served with a side of crunchy and tangy Asian coleslaw, which balanced the balls’ basic meatiness in a way that made both more flavorful. Applause is in order, as well, for the slow-cooked barbecue pork ribs. The meat released from the bone with virtually no effort and came coated in a hand-brushed sauce that was complex without being overbearing. Equally flavorful, but with more heat, were the pork lettuce wrap’s spicy pork tenderloin pieces, fried green beans, and sliced apple. The sturdy, lightly salty crust on the al dente beans is a combination winning enough to make you rethink your relationship to fried food. Believe it or not, Rohst is thriving despite the absence of a local-celebrity chef in the kitchen. Instead, Rohst claims a collegial, we’re-all-in-this-together philosophy that, if our taste buds are to be believed, appears to be working.

For more information about Rohst, visit our restaurant guide.

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