16. Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Overall Score: 83.54
17840 Dallas Pkwy.
Steak: This place has a devoted following that comes for the steaks served sizzling in butter on 500-degree plates. The scent greets you at the door. That said, the filet and the rib-eye were cooked as ordered and buttery. Scores: filet (11 oz., $38) 87, cowboy bone-in rib-eye (22 oz., $45) 85
Service: Friendly, flaky, but efficient. Our server couldn’t help but voice her opinions when she heard us discussing our picks for the
upcoming Oscars. 88
Wine sell: Our search for an interesting wine turned into a 30-minute fiasco. Our server knew little about wine. After I gave her the scenario, she retreated to the kitchen to “talk to Robert.” She returned with a suggestion: “He recommended you go with an Artesa or Ste. Michelle.” When I inquired about the varietal, she said they were both Cabernets. She went back to Robert. “Have you ever tried a Pinot Noir?” she asked. “Robert said you would like the Belle Glos from Carneros.” I told her we were all too familiar with Pinot Noir and wanted something funkier. Why Robert didn’t come to our table at this point is beyond me. He was standing behind a partition just a few feet away, and we could hear him coaching her. He said, “Tell them they have less tannins. The Acacia Pinot Noir is in their price range.” Mercy order: one bottle of Acacia Pinot Noir for $76. 50
Shrimp: Four shrimp were fresh and firm. The winner of sauces in a supporting role goes to both the Creole-style remoulade and spicy horseradish cocktail sauces. (U-16-20, $16) 95
Salads: Ruth’s chop salad is also a winner. Julienne iceberg, spinach, and radicchio with bacon, eggs, green olives, mushrooms, red onions, hearts of palm, and chunks of blue cheese with lemon basil dressing covered with delicate, crispy fried onions. 92
Vegetables: Butterless asparagus with salty hollandaise. 85
Potatoes: What’s not to love about scallop-cut potatoes and onions pan fried in butter? 90
Dessert: Warm chocolate explosion Bundt-style cake with hot ganache center and a round bread pudding topped with a butter sauce spiked with whiskey. 88
Ambiance: All the coziness of a hotel meeting room, with dated window coverings. Jazz Muzak. I was surprised by the number of customers wearing sweat shirts, jeans, and baseball caps. 85
