steak_19 (clockwise from left) Kirby’s dining room, cowboy rib-eye, and fried pickles. photography by Kevin Marple


15. Kirby’s Prime Steakhouse

Overall Score: 85.93
3305 E. State Hwy. 114, Southlake.

Steak: The rib-eye was about an inch thick, and it covered the whole plate. A nice trick to the eye, but it makes hitting medium rare more difficult. Steaks were unseasoned and without char. Yes, we ordered a side of cracked peppercorn sauce. Scores: filet (10 oz., $35.95) 85, bone-in rib-eye (22 oz., $40.95) 85

Service: Casual, professional, honestly-nothing-bad-on-the-menu attitude. The dining room and lounge were packed, and the service was slow from the get-go. 80

Wine sell: I asked for something lighter than a heavily oaked Cabernet, and our server steered around a La Crema Pinot Noir to a Stags Leap Petite Syrah. We protested again. “My favorite is only $72,” she said, “and it’s a Meritage.” She popped the cork on a bottle of Orin Swift The Prisoner 2009 Napa Valley. It almost took the enamel off our teeth. Light? It is 15.2 percent alcohol. 75

Shrimp: Five nice-size shrimp served in a martini glass filled with Absolut and pepper-spiked cocktail sauce. The doily on the plate was a nice old-fashioned touch. I miss doilies. (U-10-15, $13.95) 89

Salads: All entrées come with house salad or soup. On our visit, they offered creamy mushroom soup with thick chunks of steak fighting for space in the bowl. 90

Vegetables: I’m fudging a little here by filing Kirby’s fried pickles as a vegetable, but I would walk to Southlake to eat them. 100

Potatoes: The super-thin potatoes in the au gratin remained firm in the creamy, buttery, cheesy sauce. 93

Dessert: The dinner lasted so long that we took dessert home. Our server told us to put the spice cake in “the nuker” for 30 seconds before eating. The Key lime was more like a torte than a slice of pie—tart, sweet, and sitting on a nutty graham cracker crust. 92

Ambiance: Classy Texas-style decor with a ginormous painting of James Dean’s famous Jett Rink pose from the movie Giant above the glassed wine room. The dining room is separated from the bar and lounge by frosted, etched-glass dividers. Live music adds energy. 92

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