14. The Capital Grille
Overall Score: 86.05
500 Crescent Ct., Ste. 135.
Steak: I’ve had better steaks here, but this night my dry-aged porterhouse was tough to cut and contained several gristly spots. The filet, ordered medium rare, was medium. We asked about the seasonings, and our server said they use Lawry’s. Scores: filet (10 oz., $40) 93, dry-aged porterhouse (24 oz., $46) 88
Service: Annoying, aggressive, intrusive. Our server was set on up-sell mode and afflicted with conversation interuptus. When we cut into our steaks, she said, “Well, my ladies, is that a magnificent steak or not?” She left before we could answer. 80
Wine sell: She went straight to Pinot Noir and pointed to Patz & Hall 2009 from Sonoma for $69. When asked for something funkier, she said, “I’m afraid to go funky because I haven’t tasted any of the funkier wines.” I asked about a Rioja, a wine she’d never heard of but “will be interested to try at some point.” 79
Shrimp: Five shrimp were fresh, firm, and cold and served with a rich cocktail sauce. (U-12, $15) 94
Salads: A good chopped salad is hard to find. This version sounded tasty: four lettuces, radishes, cucumber, roasted corn, asparagus, artichoke hearts, green beans, onion, and garbanzo beans tossed in a Parmesan vinaigrette. It was a nice composition but barely chopped. Sliced, maybe. 85
Vegetables: Fresh French green beans with roasted tomatoes and fennel would have been perfect if we’d found the fennel. 75
Potatoes: Overly creamed au gratin. 85
Dessert: Why anyone would put 2 inches of whipped cream atop an exquisite round mound of coconut cream filling sitting on a macaroon crust and finished with rum caramel sauce is beyond me. Order it without the whipped cream and with extra crunchy coconut slivers, and you’ll have a great dessert. The chocolate hazelnut cake is four thick layers of decadent cake separated by bars of chocolate and topped with macadamia nuts. 90
Ambiance: East Coast clubby, nice lighting, semiprivate booths. Plenty of large groups with name tags and a heavy, older male clientele. 92
