4. Bob’s Steak & Chop House
Overall Score: 93.54
1255 S. Main St., Grapevine.
Steak: I planned to review the original Bob’s on Lemmon Avenue, but when I showed up, I was recognized. I snuck out to the Grapevine location, where I found a swankier atmosphere. I also discovered a 3-inch, 16-ounce Prime filet, a gem that would have pleased Elizabeth Taylor. The only reason it didn’t receive a perfect score is that it was cooked more medium than medium rare. Steaks come with glazed carrot and choice of potato. Scores: filet (16 oz., $50) 96, Kansas City dry-aged strip (18 oz., $48) 97
Service: Our server was slow to approach us, and, when he arrived, he apologized for the delay before darting off to check in with another table first. We weren’t in a hurry, but the entire meal service was out of sync. 82
Wine sell: Once we got him to the table and delivered our wine story, he got his game going. He talked about feminine Cabernets from California and wines from all over the globe and why those with big tannins go well with steak. He sold us on a “hot new wine”: Viña Cobos Felino 2008, a Malbec from South America produced by noted California winemaker Paul Hobbs. 99
Shrimp: Four luscious, moist shrimp served on a cold plate with a spicy sauce and dollops of fresh horseradish. (U-10, $15) 96
Salads: We knew better than to order tomatoes in February, but they were offering and we bought. Not even the crumbles of aged blue cheese could disguise the mealy ’maters. But the mother of all blue cheese salads is the romaine covered in creamy blue cheese dressing topped with crumbles of aged blue cheese and roasted pecans. Gluttons order bacon strips. 89
Vegetables: I’m a sucker for Bob’s signature glazed carrot, creamed spinach covered with crusty Parmesan, and thick onion rings. 98
Potatoes: Nobody does skillet fries like this. They are deep-fried crispy potatoes topped with sautéed onions and brown peppercorn gravy. 98
Dessert: The carrot and chocolate cakes are hearty portions but happily not over the top. The four layers of carrot cake are separated by thick veins of just-so-sweet cream cheese icing. 97
Ambiance: Bob’s on Lemmon has a cozy boy’s club atmosphere, but the Grapevine location is updated and sophisticated. The bar area has a huge stone fireplace and comfortable seating. 97
