steak_06 Shrimp cocktail. photography by Kevin Marple


3. Ocean Prime

Overall Score: 94.04
2101 Cedar Springs Rd.

Steak: In the past, I’ve been seduced by its seafood, but this time around I was impressed with its ability to turn out high-quality steaks. The New York strip was the best strip I sampled, and the filet, thicker than most, was lean, yet juicy. Scores: filet (10 oz., $39) 95, New York strip (14 oz., $41) 94

Service: How refreshing to meet a professional waiter. Our charming fellow professed his love for the service industry, and I can’t remember the last time I caught a server headed for the table dart in a different direction when he realized there was a conversation taking place at the table and didn’t want to interrupt. 96

Wine sell: Hallelujah! Ocean Prime was the 14th restaurant visited in our survey and the first place where a server listened to our wine requirements and steered us out of the United States, suggesting a nice Rioja from Spain. If not for him, at that point, we would have thought all wine was produced in California. 95

Shrimp: Three colossal shrimp served in a traditional glass shrimp cocktail bowl with a fiery sauce in the center. The dramatic presentation includes wisps of white smoke from a slice of dry ice and a side of freshly chopped horseradish. (U-6-8, $15) 97

Salads: Several selections include seafood. The wedge garnished with red onion and bacon includes a buttermilk dressing and crumbles of blue cheese. The house salad is a fancy assortment of romaine, spinach, Granny Smith apples, goat cheese, walnuts, and sherry mustard vinaigrette. 93

Vegetables: Plump sugar snap peas stir-fried in sesame oil. 93

Potatoes: The potatoes au gratin are sure to satisfy every Texan. The medium-cut potatoes are mixed with slices of fresh jalapeños and baked in a creamy cheese sauce. 99

Dessert: The carrot cake is my favorite dessert in Dallas, but the chocolate peanut butter torte gives it a run for its money. A thick, glossy black disk of peanut butter mousse on an Oreo crust was iced with a slick, seamless ganache. 100

Ambiance: The Rat Pack supper club theme is cheesy, and the overall vibe is contemporary high-end cruise ship, with sexy elevated booths along the walls. Tables in the center of the room are rather close to each other. 85