steak_04 (clockwise from left) Master sommelier Barbara Werley, chocolate toffee turtle pie, and the porterhouse photography by Kevin Marple


steak_04-1 Steakhouse salad photography by Kevin Marple

1. Pappas Bros.

Overall Score: 94.37
10477 Lombardy Ln.

Steak: All of the steaks, except filets, at Pappas Bros. Steakhouse are dry aged and seasoned with kosher salt, pepper, and butter. Both steaks had crunchy char on top, and there was quite a bit of excess butter on the plate. Scores: filet (12 oz., $43.95) 97, bone-in rib-eye (22 oz., $48.95) 97

Service: The service was impeccable, from the second we sat down until the valet brought our car around at the end of the night. There was a 35-minute gap between the salad and steak course. Not overly friendly, at times fussy, but memorable. 93

Wine sell: Our server asked if we’d be having wine, and as soon as we said yes, he sent for a sommelier. There are four on staff: two certified, one advanced, and Master Sommelier Barbara Werley. Our sommelier Heather Green’s eyes lit up when we asked for something funky. “Funky? Do you prefer a Sangiovese-Merlot blend or Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah style?” We picked the former. “I have something from Arizona, and I think it is just for you.” She returned with an Arizona Stronghold Mangus 2009, a really interesting medium-body wine from Southeastern Arizona’s Cochise County priced at $50. The owner of the winery is Maynard James Keenan, the singer for the edgy band Tool. She hit the mark. We got a funky, medium-body, unusual wine for $25 under budget. 100

Shrimp: Five shrimp are served on a cold plate with avocado and spring onion. The ends of the shrimp are dipped like pink pens into a not-so-spicy red sauce. Since there were three of us, the waiter added an extra so we’d each have two. We thought it was a nice touch until we got the bill and saw that we had been charged for the extra. (U-16-20, $12.95) 94

Salads: The steakhouse salad is a must-order. The flavors of diced apples and bits of fresh oranges collide with hearty Roquefort and candied almonds. 93

Vegetables: Simply steamed haricots verts tossed in butter. 85

Potatoes: The skillet potatoes were not a match for the macaroni and cheese with giant lumps of fresh crabmeat. Oh, the cheeses—Havarti, white cheddar, Parmesan, and Swiss. 93

Dessert: I found the gooey pecan pie too gooey and the chocolate toffee turtle pie rimmed with crushed Oreos too sweet, but I was in the minority at my table. 88

Ambiance: I really prefer to sit in the back room by the fireplace. The ceiling is low, and there is a nice vibe. The main dining room is more white-tablecloth formal but attractive. 94