It’s hard to believe this chic French-style steakhouse has been open for 10 years. I can still taste the first dinner I enjoyed there just after it opened. I won’t forget my recent meal, either. Well, parts of it anyway. The trippy mid-century Parisian bistro interior makes a lovely room, but the patio overlooking a pond with a water fountain is an ideal setting for a quiet dinner for two. Or 10. The table next to us consisted of two families with young children. Behind them sat a middle-aged couple clinking wine glasses and locking lips. Ah, Paris. I mean Plano. I ordered filet au poivre, a gorgeous hunk of meat, the top paved with crushed peppercorns that provided a crunchy jolt with each bite of smooth beef. Sadly, the accompanying glob of pinkish-brown risotto was overly soaked in red wine and stuck to the fork like cold oatmeal. (Ask for frites instead.) Two braised pork shanks on sweet potato gnocchi and Swiss chard were faultless. The moist pork, surrounded by elegant demi-cochon, is served with four plump figs wrapped in honey-glazed bacon. Instead of ordering the triple lemon cake smeared with dense lemon curd, ask for a bowl of vanilla ice cream and a few more of the figs. I’m sure newish chef James Sleeth won’t mind.
For more information on Mignon, visit our restaurant guide.