Long before Houston-based Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille (see related reviews) opened a location in Uptown, there was already a Perry’s, a local family-owned steakhouse, in town. To avoid a costly lawsuit, “the original” Perry’s changed its name to The Place at Perry’s. It might be confusing to some diners—the two steak-centric restaurants are only blocks apart—but the difference in dining experiences is immense. Along with a new name, The Place has changed its vibe and revitalized the menu. It still offers lovely steaks and regional favorites, such as beer-battered tuna and Big D stroganoff, but now the kitchen cooks only Niman Ranch beef, all-natural gourmet meat from animals that have been raised without antibiotics or added hormones and fed an all-natural vegetarian diet. It has introduced live music, Slider Saturdays with 18 varieties of sliders, and Sunday brunch. The 23-ounce bone-in rib-eye I devoured recently was the best steak I’ve had this year—ordered and served medium rare, the meat tender to the tooth. Chicken-fried rib-eye, easily enough for two and one of the finer versions in town, is covered with thick, peppery cream gravy. Wine is half price every day from 2 to 7 pm. We scored a Sterling Vineyards 2005 Merlot for $20, which is close to its retail price. This Perry’s is the only Perry’s where out-of-towners get a true taste of Dallas.

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