If you live north of LBJ, you’ve probably already discovered the Shops at Legacy. A lot of bizarre-for-Dallas things happen around this mixed-use development. People actually walk from shops to restaurants and back to other shops. Children play around a huge Vegas-style dancing water display. You’ll find singles mingling at RA Sushi and families oohing and aahing over the knife show at Benihana across the street. In between, there is the warm, pleasant dining room of Artin’s Grill, where the menu is a list of try-to-please-them-all American favorites. The salads are familiar: Caesar, wedge, house, and spinach. Main proteins are grilled over hardwood. The flavor of an inch-thick pork chop served over mashed potatoes seasoned with leeks was more smoke than pork. Ordered pink in the center, the chop was delivered ashy white inside, and the meat was dry. Our server touted the lightly seared sesame tuna over our original selections. In hindsight, we wish we’d tried the pappardelle Bolognese, a dish perfected by Christopher Short, the original chef who has since departed. But we stuck with the tuna. There was nothing off-putting about the dish. The silky pink fish was rolled in sesame seeds and served with a tower of wasabi-spiked green mashed potatoes. But there was nothing special about it. The wine list is uninspired and includes familiar names such as Cakebread and Coppola. Service was friendly and timely, but the real show here is the fountain seen through the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows.

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