I pulled into the Grapevine outpost of this iconic steakhouse at 6 on a Monday evening, and the place was jamming. The bar was packed with postwork business folks and conventioneers from out of town. I asked the hostess what was going on, and she looked up with a smile and said, “Oh, just business as usual.” The newish Grapevine location is dark and elegant. The walls are rich, warm mahogany, and onyx chandeliers cast a sexy glow. Celebrities such as Tony Romo and Jerry Jones are regulars, but the real stars on our last visit here were the servers. Our waiter answered a question about a by-the-glass Merlot by bringing out four different bottles and giving us a taste of each until we picked our favorite. One of us wanted the thick, bracelet-sized onion rings; the other didn’t. No problem. Even though it’s not offered on the menu, they sold us singles for 75 cents apiece. We ordered one salad with plans to share, and, without asking, the kitchen did the splitting. The waiter delivered two chilled plates with a manageable portion of greens tossed with cucumber, tomato, bell pepper, onion, bacon, and hearts of palm. Both the 9-ounce filet and a 22-ounce côte de boeuf were cooked as ordered to a perfect medium-rare-plus and lacked the crust of boutique sea salt and butter that seems to have invaded similar upscale steak joints all over town. While other high-end steakhouses are trying to lure customers with gimmicky come-ons, Bob’s is sticking to the formula that has made it Dallas’ top steak spot since the original location on Lemmon opened in 1993—top-quality meat, sophisticated service, and a cozy, clubby atmosphere.

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