Some restaurateurs have had a tough time in the down economy, but not chef Kenny Bowers. Both his Kenny’s Wood Fired Grill in North Dallas and Kenny’s Burger Joint in Frisco often run a lengthy wait list during peak times. He has a knack for meeting the needs of the neighborhood. At the Burger Joint, that means a family vibe, half-pound burgers, and “adult” milkshakes spiked with alcohol and served in martini glasses. The Wood Fired Grill is all about cosmopolitan, single Addison. Its dark, swanky interior has a bar nicknamed Cougars. Even at lunch, there’s a scene of sorts, as diners nurse glasses of wine and eye every customer who enters. That the food is robust and well-prepared seems almost a gift. Bowers made his name with seafood, and the fish here excels. Nachos came topped with thick, rare chunks of tuna and wasabi aioli. A fish club sandwich held a tilapia fillet, grilled until idyllically flaky. Clam chowder was true to the New England classic: a creamy stew with bits of tender clam and cubed potato. Beef was maybe even better, be it a burger topped with a fried egg, or crostini with tender beef medallions, medium rare, propped on toast. Everyone gets a complimentary popover, crunchy and doughy and nearly as big as a baseball glove.
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