Dallas may be home to Sonny Bryan’s, but barbecue hounds still yearn for Austin-style ’cue, where the meats linger in the smoker for hours on end. So Luckie’s Smokehouse sounded promising, because it’s the proud possessor of not one but two smokers. But as it turns out, owning a smoker doesn’t guarantee smoky-tasting meat. Luckie’s brisket was especially pitiful: gray, gummy, and tough on the chew, rather than the smoky, dark-edged slice of tenderness we’d hoped to find. Chopped brisket was a no-go, too, with too many fatty ends in the over-sauced pile of meat. It was like a Sloppy Joe. Luckie’s redeemed itself slightly with the ribs, that other barbecue benchmark, turning out generously meaty slabs with a tangy pork flavor. They make three barbecue sauces, including one with chipotle, and a slew of sides such as potato salad, cole slaw, and rich creamed spinach. They do a decent job on fried foods, including the fried green beans with a crunchy battered crust. Luckie’s sits in a new strip center right off I-30 without much competition other than chains, so it’s good for locals. As a barbecue destination, though, not so much.

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