I was totally in the mood for Cosmic Cafe. I had just gone to a yoga class. In fact, I took my yogi with me to dinner. You don’t have to be a yogi to eat there, but with daily yoga classes, a meditation room, and maybe more Buddhas than you’ll find in Thailand, Cosmic Cafe isn’t suitable for swearing, beef-eating cynics. My yogi and I started with Sufi’s Special: hummus, naan, samosa, and pappardam (crispy lentil wafer). Hummus was forgettable, but the potato-and-pea-stuffed samosa, with a pinch of red chile heat, was the star on this plate. The second course was beet soup, one of two daily homemade varieties. It was loaded with cauliflower, zucchini, squash, and broccoli, and its broth base had turned fuschia, thanks to the cubed beets. A bit of salt, and it was a winner. Next came two sammies of sorts: Rumi’s Falafel and A Fold in Thyme. The former was dry, due to the overcooked discs of spiced chickpeas—which, let’s face it, are hard to keep moist—but a dribble of yogurt dressing and fresh sprouts, lettuce, and tomato went a long way to save it. The latter, however, was ethereal: avocado, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, bell peppers, sprouts, and mushrooms bound together with melted mozzarella (a sub for cheddar) and tossed with honey mustard. Weirdly, a slice of non-dairy chocolate cake was served with a pool of chocolate sauce and a mountain of non-non-dairy whipped topping—which you would think is the sort of thing they would tell you about. Had we known, we would have asked for the cake naked—not because we’re anti-whipped cream or anything. But the cake would have been tastier without it.

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