The Gourmet Burger—a half pound of Black Angus beef topped with sharp cheddar and caramelized onions—is a thing of beauty. It takes two hands to hold and two elbows to brace said hands. Meat ordered medium rare came served medium rare—a rare occurrence in the gourmet burger business. The burger is so big—enough for two—I split the corners of my mouth trying to bite into it. But the menu is more than bar food. The house-made tortilla soup, with a rich broth and chunks of avocado, has a swift, spicy kick on the finish and could give many upscale versions a run for their money. Some people say the same thing about the chicken and dumplings, but they weren’t available when we dined. Peak lunch and dinner hours tend to be crowded, especially when there is a sporting event. (There is a TV for almost every sight line.) We would have thoroughly enjoyed our last visit if it wasn’t for the strong smell of disinfectant in the dining room.
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