We all know that Dallas is not famous for its Italian cuisine, and most of us sate our cravings at the Italian joint in our neighborhood. But step outside that neighborhood, say for two weeks in Italy, and when you return, just see how far off base most of our regular spots fall. That was my quandary when I recently returned from Tuscany. My brain sensors were reprogrammed by gorging on fresh sage, butter, olive oil, ethereal pasta, and splendid pork products. Thankfully, Rino Brigliadori is Italian, and he knows how to cook. Although his menu includes a wedge salad with blue cheese and several red sauce classics, the bulk of his cooking centers on delicate and delicious dishes from Italy. Ravioli filled with chicken and topped with a brown butter sage sauce was like heroin to a junkie. I ate the whole helping in minutes. Ditto for the veal scaloppini saltimbocca served with prosciutto and sage and a top-notch tiramisu. Now if we could just line the Tollway with cypress trees and cue the vine-covered rolling hills, readjusting to “Dallas Italian” wouldn’t be so cruel.
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