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Review: Cock and Bull

By Jennifer Chininis |
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photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

It might not occur to you to choose the Cock and Bull as your dinner destination—and if you can’t stand the smell of smoke, then that’s probably a wise choice. That said, we were mighty intrigued by this Lakewood watering hole’s ambitious menu—truffled eggs at brunch!—so we braved smoke, grabbed a bar stool, and ordered a ridiculously tall draft beer. On the chalkboard is a list of cheeses as long as the board itself; also listed are specials such as New Zealand mussels and sole meunière. We ordered from the menu instead: porcini and scamorza ravioli and salt-crusted wild salmon. The former was a disappointment, but we accept some responsibility. It wasn’t our fault that the ravioli was undercooked and the vodka-tomato sauce tasted like it was dumped from a can; however, it was our fault to order it with grilled tenderloin, an odd choice for a topping. Interestingly, the tenderloin, heartily seasoned and tender, was the best part of the dish. The wild salmon, with its salty serrano-scented crust, was, thankfully, satisfying, with a messy tangle of spaghetti squash and crisp French green beans—just the sort of dinner that would make our personal trainer proud. Also worth noting: for just $2 more, you can add a salad to your entrée. And their version of a Caesar—butter lettuce with sun-dried tomato and chunks of grilled asparagus tossed in a garlicky Caesar-style dressing—was a knockout.

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