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Review: Tipperary Inn

Just in time for St. Patrick’s Day, the Tipp, as it’s known, has revamped its menu.
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photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

Just in time for St. Patrick’s Day, the Tipp, as it’s known, has revamped its menu. Among other changes, they’ve added Texas toothpicks and hot wings, which had me worried. I used to live around the corner from the Tipp, and my mother’s maiden name is Muldoon. Meaning, I like to pretend I’m Irish, and I’ve killed a fair number of brain cells in the place. The Tipp struck me as authentic. Some of the staff speak with a brogue, and the décor—all wood and stained glass, with traditional Irish booths called “snugs”—makes you want to drink Bushmills. To that you want to introduce Texas toothpicks and hot wings? We skipped both and started with beer-battered fried mushrooms and Guinness queso and chips. The former was nothing special. The latter was so tasty I would lick it off the floor. For dinner proper, the price of the Sligo lamb, at $10.95, should have been a warning. So should the fact that they misspelled “demi glaze.” The lamb came sliced and swimming in its salty gravy, which couldn’t compensate for the lack of lamb flavor. Corned beef and cabbage was better, but the mashed potatoes were again saltier than the Irish Sea. The real winner was the fish and chips. The crispy beer batter on the cod was perfectly delicate, not greasy. My dining mate agreed: it trumps the fish and chips at Trinity Hall and the Old Monk (as much as it pains me to say it). Save room for the bread pudding, and when they ask which sauce you want (whiskey cream or chocolate caramel), tell them both. If you do go for St. Paddy’s Day, be prepared for a huge crowd and some good craic. It’s pronounced “crack.” Means “fun.” It’s an Irish thing. 5815 Live Oak St. 214-821-6500. $$

Update: Tipperary Inn has closed.

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