Every city worth its salt has a kooky restaurant that revolves, and in Dallas, it’s Antares, 50 stories up in the Reunion Tower. Its 360-degree view makes it a Destination with a capital “D,” with prices to match: dinner entrées run as high as $45. There’s some kind of anniversary celebration nearly every day and up to eight marriage proposals a week.

With all that view and touristy potential, the food was better than expected. The latest chef, Andy Tuntivatingorn, came to Antares in ’06, after nine years at Sea Grill in North Dallas (since closed). He’s broadened the cuisine from Southwestern to New American, incorporating Asian, Mediterranean, and more.

Appetizers definitely had an Asian theme. The spring roll, big as a burrito, seemed almost like a prank, but its filling of shredded lettuce, mint, and wild mushrooms refreshed. Malaysian chicken had nice flavors from its coconut and curry marinade, mixed greens, jicama slaw, and peanut dipping sauce.

Antares being a special-occasion site makes steaks and chops a must. But inventiveness could be seen in some side dishes, and vegetables were cooked just crisp. Salmon drew red lentils and soft, purple potato. Beef tenderloin got a drizzle of mole sauce and a skewer of nicely grilled shrimp, onion, and one black fig. Complimentary bread had a hefty crust, and service was good, with no wine glass poured too full—an important bit of knowledge for such a celebratory place. 300 Reunion Blvd. 214-712-7145. $$$.

Update: Antares has closed.