Sure, Dallas palates have come a long way, and the standard of restaurants has risen to meet these higher expectations. But let’s face it: we love our beef, and the number of steakhouses will never decline.

We’ve come to rely on Sullivan’s, which has 15 other locations, for a consistent and slightly more reasonably priced steak dinner. By reasonably priced we mean entrées come with a salad. Traditionally a blue cheese wedge is offered, but ask for the Caesar instead, with a bit of tang from the anchovies and fat shavings of good Parmesan. Recently we feasted on a bone-in ribeye and 12-ounce filet mignon, both heartily rubbed with seasonings and both grilled to the correct temperature, with a fine, charred crust. Watching the fire and determining the precise moment to remove the meat isn’t always simple. Neither is sautéing spinach just right, which Sullivan’s also does. The leafy greens were bright and barely wilted, tossed with olive oil and lots of chopped garlic. Lyonnaise potatoes were a generous portion of crisped cubes of potato and sweet sautéed onions. Even the retro round of sourdough, which could have been an afterthought, was warm with a hearty chew.

The wine list was long, filled with many Cabernet Sauvignons, of course. We wish they took as much care with the wines by the glass—the Mark West Pinot Noir was ho-hum—but I’m sure the idea is to sell those bottles. No sense in arguing with that.

Get contact information for Sullivan’s Steakhouse.