It used to be that sushi at Lovers and Inwood meant Yamaguchi, but that institution closed last October. A couple of blocks east is Sushi House, a worthy substitute that hits all the essentials: reliable fish, good technique, and a rapport-ready staff. Owners Roy and Lira Ra seem reserved at first, but that’s actually shyness. Part of the fun of making a sushi bar your own is hurdling that initial reserve.

Designer rolls run from staples such as the Philly with smoked salmon and cream cheese to signatures such as the Sushi House roll with white tuna, avocado, cucumber, and wasabi sauce. They excel at contrast, such as the samurai roll that pitted cool against hot: a California roll with cool chopped salmon and fiery red sauce.

There’s big value on the assortment plates, where $16 gets you eight pieces of sushi—salmon, tuna, yellowtail, et cetera, all impeccable—plus choice of roll. Value isn’t just about lots of sushi; this is good-quality stuff.

Get contact information for Sushi House.

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