After an early identity crisis, this sweet and simple Bishop Arts cafe has settled into what it should have been all along: a home-cooking haven with a dash of panache. In its earlier incarnation, Grill 400 was a steakhouse with mediocre steaks. That’s something you can’t get away with in beef-happy Dallas. Thankfully, new owner John Hornsby broadened the menu to include meatloaf. The generous slice of the June Cleaver favorite is topped with a rich rosemary-infused brown gravy and crispy fried onions. Sides of garlic mashed potatoes and grilled veggies make this dish a bargain at only $8.50. Another winner is the pan-fried chicken schnitzel: chicken breast pounded thin, dipped in egg, breaded, and fried. Raspberry braised cabbage adds a sweet tangy presence to the plate.

However, Hornsby didn’t abandon the steaks altogether. His flame-grilled portion of the menu features a tasty 10-ounce top sirloin as well as pork loin, yellowfin tuna, salmon, and more. Served with a choice of potato (Idaho baked or sweet), it’s one of the best sirloin dinners you’ll find for $11.50. Much like its neighbor Hattie’s, Grill 400 features understated décor, with sage green walls, creamy exposed rafters, and a cool concrete floor. The back room is cozy, with a fireplace, while the front dining room is open and airy. But that’s where the similarities end. Hattie’s is elegant New American cuisine with gourmet flair. Hornsby’s Grill 400 is basic, inexpensive, and satisfying home cooking. In other words, everything a true neighborhood grill should be. 400 W. Davis St. 214-941-2727. $-$$. —T.J.