Funky Town

WELCOME TO THE OC: Live jazz at Brooklyn.

DALLAS MAY BE A LOT OF THINGS, BUT FUNKY IT IS NOT.  Unless, of
course, you travel southwest of downtown, across the Trinity River,
into North Oak Cliff, where a former bustling trolley stop has been
transformed into one of the hippest, most original arts, retail, and
restaurant scenes in town.

It
all started with a stroke of luck, really. Bishop Arts District is one
of the few places in Dallas where a cluster of early 20th-century
residential and commercial buildings remain relatively intact. The area
lay largely in disrepair until the 1980s, when developer Jim Lake Sr.
began acquiring and restoring old buildings, and it was during this
time that the district got its name. Next came David Spence. In 1996,
his company, Good Space, began buying up neglected properties and
restoring them into chic apartments and urbane offices. Spence has
become the unofficial mayor and public spokesman for Bishop Arts.

Someone
was listening. Thanks to a $2.67 million capital-improvements project
completed by the city in 2001, the 100-year-old Bishop Arts District
got a makeover at curb level, too: newly paved streets, old-fashioned
lamps, new curbs and traffic signals, brick sidewalks, a park with
benches, a tiled plaza, and vintage-inspired blue and white tiled
address markers. The renovations announced to the rest of Dallas that
it was officially open for business. Since then restaurants and
retailers have flooded into Oak Cliff’s coolest corner, creating a buzz
around Dallas and the country.

Wondering what all the fuss is about? Here’s a primer for whiling away the day (and night) in Bishop Arts.

YOUR MOMMA TOLD YOU NEVER TO SKIP BREAKFAST, so start with a stack of super cheap pancakes at El Jordan Cafe.
The window reads “fajitas” and “menudo,” but locals like to carbo load
here before hitting the pavement. If you have weekend guests to
impress, head to Brooklyn for Saturday or Sunday brunch, but be
prepared to wait. Tables are packed with patrons chowing down on
Billie’s Benedict (poached eggs on a toasted baguette topped with
asparagus hollandaise sauce) while listening to some steaming jazz
licks.

WELCOME TO THE OC: Hamilton Rousseau and his world-famous soda pop collection at Ifs Ands & Butts.

After a big breakfast, you might want to kick back on the secondhand sofa at Nodding Dog Coffee Company
and sooth your stuffed belly with one of the assorted loose-leaf teas
or La Crème coffees. You’ll be joined by fellow sippers, noses in
books, fingers typing away at their laptops, or chatting with
neighbors. Once you’ve sufficiently digested your morning feast, you
can begin to browse the many retail gems.

Most of the stores in Bishop Arts are brimming with knickknacks and home décor. For the biggest bric-a-brac, head to Oak Cliff Mercantile
for one-of-a-kind salvaged doors, tubs, light fixtures, and hardware.
Need a king-size headboard for your master suite? Try an oversize
wooden mantel. They’re not just for fireplaces anymore. For smaller but
just as special finds, try Fête Home Collection. Here you’ll
discover Asian-inspired armoires, darling lamps, Niven Morgan bath and
beauty products, Trapp candles, and funny hand-painted cards by
Dallasite Tim O’Reilly. Watch out, though. The cards can be a bit
raunchy. Bryan Christian Home & Gift carries original and
affordable treats such as incense, frames, candleholders, handbags, and
a great collection of Hindu paraphernalia, from Buddha statues and
masks to our favorite: a turquoise Ganesh lunchbox. A great source for
stunning glass bowls, platters, and vases is Bishop Street Market,
where the pieces are brilliantly displayed in the window. Here you can
also pick up a colorful striped silk handbag by Phat Tran or a
fantastic pair of champagne flutes.

Vintage and antiques lovers can spend hours inside places like B. Gover, Days Gone Bye, and Dave’s Place
for rustic to refined furniture, glassware, china, mirrors, and other
decorative home pieces. Dave’s Place also boasts a never-ending
assortment of Fiestaware in every color of the rainbow. Victoria’s Lace,
housed in a tiny Victorian cottage at the southern end of the district,
peddles imported bath and beauty products, greeting cards, and new and
vintage costume jewelry. But you’ll be most impressed by the extensive
collection of religious icons, statues, Bibles, and estate rosaries.
Looking to score a vintage Gucci or Fendi handbag? At Zola’s Everyday Vintage,
you’ll find a small but smart collection of apparel, accessories, and
shoes from the 1930s to the 1990s, in labels from Chico’s to Christian
Lacroix. Book lovers should pop in The Book Doctor for rare
literature and Bibles and assorted papers and bookbinding materials.
This little treasure also offers bookbinding classes and can repair
your beloved but damaged ancient tomes.

SIP AND SHOP: Dave Lariviere amid his Fiestaware at Dave’s Place.

If all this power shopping has burned those breakfast calories, now may
be a good time to refuel. Your biggest challenge will be deciding where
to eat, though whatever you don’t choose for lunch can be your dinner
destination. Chicken-fried steak connoisseurs may find their holy grail
at Gennie’s Bishop Grill (open for lunch only), where home-cooking purists have been flocking since 1970. For home cooking with an upscale twist, Hattie’s American Bistro
doesn’t disappoint. Warm up with the planet’s best tomato soup,
complete with a tiny grilled cheese sandwich perched on the rim. Other
standouts include fried green tomatoes, pecan-crusted catfish, and a
savory griddled ham and Brie sandwich, all served in a chic,
black-and-white interior. Old kid on the block (opened in 1992) Tillman’s Corner,
a 1950s bowling alley-turned-neighborhood restaurant, draws a loyal
following who dine on cedar-planked salmon and barbecue ribs in
flea-market surroundings. Another American favorite, Grill 400, offers a nice assortment of steaks, seafood, and home-style favorites like meatloaf. Marc Serrao claims Vitto Italian,
where he serves a wide selection of Italian favorites (chicken Marsala
and lobster ravioli) alongside designer pizzas like the Alfredo with
chicken, sausage, and zucchini or the Thai-style pie with sweet and
spicy Thai sauce, chicken, mushrooms, and green and red bell peppers.
Speaking of Thai, Chan Thai, around the corner and off the main
drag, is a vibrant cafe serving a solid bunch of noodles, curries, and
stir-frys. The newest and most special culinary delight to grace Bishop
Arts is Veracruz Cafe, recognized by Gourmet magazine as one of
the top new restaurants in the country. Behind the bold red façade lies
a tiny jewel of a space, where chef Lilia Mata creates Mayan- and
Aztec-inspired dishes, as well as seafood specialties from her
hometown, the restaurant’s namesake. Though lunch is served here, you
might save this meal for the end of the day, when it can be properly
savored.

Is it time for a nap? How about the next best thing: a massage? Newly opened Bishop Arts Refuge Day Spa
answers the call with a therapeutic massage, salt glow, body wrap, or
facial. If you’d rather relax with a nice cigar or sip on an original
recipe Dr Pepper, head to Hamilton Rousseau’s place, Ifs Ands & Butts.
Rousseau opened this special tobacco and soda pop shop in 1996, long
before the neighbors moved in, offering 135 flavors of hard-to-find or
long-forgotten soda. (If you try 125, he’ll give you a free case. Only
five people have done it.) We like to pop the top on an authentic
Coca-Cola and curl up with a $1 paperback. If you need an
out-of-the-ordinary gift, mix and match a six-pack or choose from
Rousseau’s extensive selection of smoking accessories. If smoking and
soda pop are not your thing, you could always enjoy a simple scoop of
Blue Bell ice cream at Sueños Sabrosos Ice Cream Parlor.

SIP AND SHOP: heavenly mochas and tasty pastries at Nodding Dog.

Lest you think you can feed only your body—or stock your living room—at Bishop Arts, then perhaps you need to feed your mind at Mulcahy Modern,
where longtime gallery owner Cynthia Mulcahy presents cutting-edge
contemporary works by established artists, such as Celia Eberle, most
of whom have pieces in major museums and many of the more interesting
private collections. Up the street is the newly opened Decorazon Gallery,
showcasing the works of local and international artists, such as
Pollyana Perez, Steve Cruz, Berge Minnelli, and Hilario Olivo.

Hopefully
you’ve saved some steam for Bishop Arts after dark. Enjoy a meal at one
of the aforementioned restaurants, then head to Brooklyn for live jazz
from the likes of Marchel Ivery and the Freddie Jones Quartet. Music
too loud? Then try your hand at open-mic poetry night (Saturdays at
8:30 p.m.) at Sueños Sabrosos. Any way you want to play, Bishop Arts will make your day—and night.

RESOURCE DIRECTORY

WHERE TO EAT
Brooklyn
Reminiscent of an old speak-easy, this is a shopping spot for live music and jazz brunches. 380 W. Seventh St. 214-946-0025.
www.brooklynjazzcafe.com.

Chan Thai
This brightly colored cafe boasts solid preparations of stir-frys and noodle dishes. 312 W. Seventh St. 214-948-9956. www.chanthai.com.

El Jordan Cafe
The window advertises fajitas and menudo, but we go for pancakes. 416 N. Bishop Ave. 214-941-4451.

Gennie’s Bishop Grill
A popular lunch destination for home-cooking loyalists looking for a chicken-fried-steak fix. 321 N. Bishop Ave. 214-946-1752.

Grill 400
Dine
on reasonably priced steaks and seafood, plus home-style favorites like
meatloaf, amid funky local art. 400 W. Davis St. 214-941-2727. www.grill400.com.

Hattie’s American Bistro
Upscale
Southern specialties like fried green tomatoes and pecan-crusted
catfish are served in a sleek, black-and-white space. 418 N. Bishop
Ave. 214-942-7400. www.hatties.net.

Sueños Sabrosos Ice Cream Parlor
Enjoy a scoop of Blue Bell or try your hand at open-mic poetry on Saturday nights. 408 N. Bishop Ave., Ste. 105. 214-941-1177.

Tillman’s Corner
The
first slightly upscale restaurant to cross the Trinity 12 years ago
serves specialties such as cedar-planked salmon and grilled trout in a
1950s bowling alley. 324 W. Seventh St. 214-942-0988.

Veracruz Cafe
This tiny gem serves a wonderful mix of Aztec- and Mayan-inspired Mexican dishes. 408 N. Bishop Ave., Ste. 107. 214-948-4746.

Vitto Italian
The
neighborhood pizza joint offers a great selection of pizzas and other
Italian favorites, such as chicken Marsala. 316 W. Seventh St.
214-946-1212.
www.vittoitalian.com.

WHERE TO SHOP
B. Gover
Pop in for rustic to refined furnishings and other antiques. 410 N. Bishop Ave. 214-941-4070.

Bishop Street Market
You’ll find beautiful glassware galore at this neat shop. 419 N. Bishop St. 214-941-0907.

The Book Doctor
Stop here for book restoration, custom-made books, binding supplies, and decorative papers. 320 W. Seventh St. 214-946-1760. www.thebookdr.com.

Bryan Christian Home & Gift
This
eclectic and inexpensive home décor shop offers everything from incense
and frames to Buddha statues. 502 N. Bishop Ave. 214-943-1868.

Dave’s Place
Amid
the mishmash of collectibles and antiques is the best selection of
Fiestaware in Dallas. 408 N. Bishop Ave., Ste. 102. 214-948-0779.

Days Gone Bye
Browse collectible glassware, china, furniture, and accessories. 509-D N. Bishop Ave. 214-942-5535.

Decorazon Gallery
The newly opened gallery features works from local and international contemporary artists. 417 N. Bishop Ave. 214-718-1052. www.decorazongallery.com.

Fête Home Collection
Shop
here for Asian-inspired armoires, one-of-a-kind lamps, and gifts such
as Niven Morgan beauty products or Trapp candles. 322 W. Seventh St.
214-948-9874. www.fetehome.com.

Mulcahy Modern
Cynthia
Mulcahy’s space features works by established contemporary artists,
most of whom have pieces in major museums. 408 W. Eighth St.
214-948-9595.

Oak Cliff Mercantile
This architectural
salvage store is full of unusual doors, mantels, light fixtures, and
hardware. 330-A W. Davis St. 214-948-8080. www.oakcliffmercantile.com.

Victoria’s Lace
Old
meets new at this Victorian cottage: greeting cards, costume jewelry,
and an impressive display of religious statues, icons, and rosaries.
336 W. Eighth St. 214-942-5664. www.victoriaslace.com.

Zola’s Everyday Vintage
Vintage clothing, shoes, and accessories from the 1930s to the 1990s can be found here. 414 N. Bishop Ave. 214-943-6643. www.zolaseverydayvintage.com.

WHERE TO HANG OUT
Bishop Arts Refuge Day Spa
Pamper yourself with a massage, body wrap, or salt glow, and pick up a gift for a friend. 509 N. Bishop Ave. 214-948-4881.

Ifs Ands & Butts
This is the self-proclaimed “world’s most famous soda pop and tobacco shop.” 408 N. Bishop Ave., Ste. 101. 214-941-1222. www.ifsandsbutts.com.

Nodding Dog Coffee Company
A true neighborhood coffeehouse lets folks hang out with a good book or their laptop. 500 N. Bishop Ave. 214-941-1166.
www.noddingdogcoffee.com.