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The Art of Carmel

Carmel, a hamlet by the sea, is an artist’s haven and a shopper’s paradise.
By Todd Johnson |

The picturesque sunset might seem cliché—something straight from a corny greeting card or inspirational poster—if I weren’t seeing it for myself. The burnt-orange sun descends through a sky of cotton-candy-colored clouds as the tide laps at my feet. Dogs snap at the foamy waves. Lovers hold hands. It appears as though the whole town of Carmel has turned out for the show. And here I am, inspired by nature’s majesty, trying to re-create it with oil paint and canvas. Like I said, corny. But something in the briny air moved me, urged me to try my hand at creating my own masterpiece or, at the very least, capture a bit of the beauty that is Carmel-by-the-Sea.

“So why do you have a banana floating in the ocean?” asks a curious beachcomber.

Okay. I’m a writer, not a painter. (For the record, it’s a sea lion, not a banana.) But there’s something oddly inspirational about this little town, only 1 square mile in size. In its own small way, Carmel is stately (nestled amid a national forest), serene (the only noise you’re likely to hear is the Pacific Ocean), and posh (a shack-like waterfront house can cost a cool $4 million).

Carmel strives to protect its small-town appeal and, in doing so, has established some quirks. Other than Ocean Avenue, downtown’s main thoroughfare, the town has few sidewalks. Houses and businesses have no addresses—mail is picked up at the post office—and even the most modest home often gets a name. (My favorite? Writer’s Block, of course.) You must have a permit to wear high heels because of Carmel’s urban forest environment. Nature always trumps development: sidewalks, houses, and businesses often are built around trees to avoid cutting them down. And dogs are as welcome here as their owners.

Carmel was dog-friendly long before animal activist Doris Day opened Cypress Inn, where pooches are always treated like special guests. The 44-room inn is entirely open to dogs and provides blankets, beds, bowls, and plenty of treats for Fido. As part of the turndown service, owners get chocolate and pups get biscuits. The staff even provides pet-sitting services.

Four-legged friends are also welcome at many of the town’s trendy eateries. My favorite spot is Forge in the Forest, where Lulu can rest in front of the brick and stone fire pits on the outdoor patio and enjoy a Hot Diggety Dog or Quarter Hounder while you sit at a redwood table and nosh on—what else?—California cuisine.

Best of all, however, Carmel is artsy. For years, the natural beauty has inspired painters, sculptors, and writers. Though developed in 1903, it wasn’t until after the great San Francisco earthquake of 1906 that Carmel became popular. California poet George Sterling urged creative types to move to the small coastal town to create an artists’ community. Soon the likes of Jack London, Sinclair Lewis, James Hopper, and Mary Austen were flocking to the fledgling Carmel. Nicknamed “The Bohemians,” this spirited group helped foster Carmel’s creative environment. The energy of their early work still lives in Carmel’s numerous galleries, museums, and resident artists.

But if your tastes run more toward Chanel than Chagall, fret not. Carmel keeps your credit cards busy. Like some charming European village, downtown is block after block of fashion boutiques, epicurean delights, and art galleries.

In fact, the shopping is so great I barely made it to the beach to see one of Carmel’s famous sunsets. Don’t miss this joy. And, if you feel inspired, go ahead and pick up that paintbrush. Banana or sea lion, it doesn’t matter. Carmel sunsets have seduced artists for decades. Corny, yes. But true.

FAST FACTS

HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest and most scenic way is to fly to San Francisco and drive down the Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1) through Monterey to Carmel. On your way, detour into neighboring Pacific Grove and take 17-Mile Drive, a beautiful tour along the Pacific Coast and through the lush Pebble Beach Resorts. It will add an hour to your two-hour drive, but the views are worth it.

WHERE TO STAY
Cypress Inn
Lincoln Street @ Seventh Avenue. 831-624-3871
This is Doris Day’s pet-friendly bed and breakfast. Doggie happy hours are part of its quirky charm.

Hofsas House
San Carlos Street
831-624-2745
Open since 1949, the German gem features a private pool, ocean views, and is secluded from the busier parts of Carmel.

La Playa Hotel
Camino Real @ Eighth Avenue 831-624-6476
Built in 1902 by Norwegian artist Christopher Jorgensen, this Mediterranean manor is one of the prettiest places to stay in Carmel.

Pine Inn
Ocean Avenue @ Lincoln Street. 831-624-3851
Here, it’s all about location. This Victorian charmer is in the thick of Carmel’s shopping district.

DINING OUT IN CARMEL
Restaurants in Carmel range from casual sidewalk cafes to five-star bistros. Though the town is a seaside community, shorts are considered inappropriate dinner attire. And you can’t always trust guidebooks. Ask the locals where they eat—they’ll help you avoid tourist traps.

Anton & Michel
Court of Fountains (Mission Street)
831-624-2406
Enjoy Continental cuisine with a California twist at this formal and handsome eatery. Service is crisp and efficient but never stuffy. The wine list is the best in town.

Casanova
Fifth Avenue. 831-625-0501
Easily the most romantic spot in Carmel, small rooms give way to a rustic courtyard. The food is a blend of Italian, French, and Spanish. Ask to see the wine cellar—a dusty treat.

Flying Fish Grill
Carmel Plaza Mall (Mission Street @ Ocean Avenue). 831-625-1962
California and Pacific Rim cuisine are highlights at this dark, cozy retreat.

Forge in the Forest
Fifth Avenue @ Junipero. 831-624-2233
Henry Miller, John Steinbeck, and Francis Whitaker loved to eat here. The dog-friendly restaurant serves a wide range of American dishes.

Fornaio Cucina Italiano
Pine Inn (Ocean Avenue @ Lincoln Street)
831-622-5100
This lovely Italian cafe is also one of the better bakeries in town. Expect delicate crêpes and toothsome pizzas—and great people-watching.

ART SMART
You can’t toss a Visa without hitting an art gallery in Carmel. And therein lies the problem. Because Carmel is both tourist destination and world-famous artists’ enclave, prices are often inflated. Don’t be afraid to haggle or walk away. That said, these are some of Carmel’s best galleries.

Canapo Fine Art Gallery
San Carlos Street. 831-624-7462
Dolores Street. 831-626-1864
The only Carmel gallery specializing in Latin art, Canapo is actually two galleries. For fine art, head to the Dolores Street location. For folk art, go to San Carlos Street.

Coast Galleries
Ocean Avenue @ San Carlos Street
831-625-3200
If you want to take a bit of Carmel’s rugged coast home with you, buy here. Using plasma screens, Coast Galleries’ huge inventory can be displayed using digital imaging. It’s a 21st-century way of buying art.

Portnoy Galleries
Sixth Avenue @ Dolores Street
831-624-1155
Portnoy was named one of Carmel’s best galleries by Art & Antiques magazine. This is the place for original French Impressionist oils.

Zantman Art Galleries
Sixth Avenue @ Mission Street
831-624-8314
Mission Street, between Fifth and Sixth avenues. 831-620-0732
Established in 1959, the original Zantman, on Sixth Avenue, is Carmel’s oldest and one of its more prestigious commercial art galleries. That means a huge inventory: everything from watercolors to Old World oils to contemporary pieces. The second location carries contemporary European art. Zantman has one of the more knowledgeable staffs in town.

Photo: Courtesy of the City of Carmel

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