Restaurante & BARS

TASTING THE TOWN

Fixed-Price Finds

We’ve cornea from the old frontier boardinghouse days when diners paid a flat rate and ate whatever came out of the kitchen. These days, the custom has evolved to range from under-$5 plate-lunch specials to sky’s-the-limit prix-fixe spreads. The following are some of the best values in town:

Cacharel. You may eat cheaper, but you won’t dine better than on this Arlington standout’s stellar French cuisine. The three-course dinner menu changes daily, offering a half-dozen appetizers, the same number of entrees and dessert for $28. Or do lunch, and get the same selection for $12.2221 E.Lamar Blvd.

Cafe de France. The owner of this Preston Center East franchise gives couples the run of his rather extensive menu for a three-course meal, including wine, for $19.95. Start with salad or soup, pick an entree and wind down with your choice of homemade desserts. 4011 Villanova.

Highland Park Cafeteria’s Shakespeare Room. If it’s for dinner, you’ll have to go early–evening hours are 5:30 to 7:45 weekdays-but this mellow upstairs retreat rivals urbane private clubs in plush ambience. In food, too: The salad spread runs a stunning gamut; main-dish meats, carved to order, are almost ou shone by a panorama of garden-fresh vegetables; desserts revolve seductively in a shining glass kiosk. All this for $10.49 plus tax. 4611 Cole.

The Pyramid Room. If you considered this elegant room’s table d’hote dinner a bargain at its former $36, try it now for only $19 for a four-courser that lets you select from two avant cuisine appetizers, savor a salad, pick from three entrees and finish off with whatever you choose from the lavish dessert cart. The Fairmont Hotel. 1717 N.Akard.

Sam’s Cafe. In sync with the season’s heightened pace, this Southwestern social hub sets an early-bird table to free you up for festive evening doings. Get there between 4:30 and 6:30 weekdays, and three courses will cost you $12.95. That’s soup or salad, your choice of a salmon, vegetable or chicken entree, plus seasonal berries or the house-signature cinnamon bunuelo for dessert. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140.

Routh Street Cafe. All right, SO $35 is not exactly pin money, which is why we listed this one last. But throw in a gratis glass of wine from its award-winning cellar, and you’ve got a bargain worth celebrating. It’s Routh Street’s way of supporting the arts by sending you off to the theater or symphony well fed, with a three-course selection from three starters, three entrees and any dessert you fancy. 3005 Routh St.

-Betty Cook



BARS

Ships Ahoy

For Sunday football watching, sail on down to Ships Lounge, a tiny bar on Lower Greenville Avenue behind the Sears store. There’s free food-owner Charlie Redd sometimes makes up stew, barbecue or catfish for his customers-and the beers here are cheap. Really cheap. Draws are 85 cents, $1 for a big glass. For snacking, there’s also near-golfball-sized Spanish olives, served icy-cold on a paper towel for 5 cents apiece.

The kitschy tavern turns off the jukebox on football Sundays and turns up the sound on its two televisions. Ships Lounge has sailed smoothly for the last 12 years, attracting a mixed crowd of after-midnight bar hoppers and working-class folk. Redd is usually there, too. He’s the one wearing the captain’s hat. Ships Lounge, 1613 Greenville Avenue, is open 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Saturday and 12 p.m.-2 a.m. Sunday. 823-0315. -Ellise Pierce



ON THE ROAD

A Star in the East

Sulphur Springs is just one of any number of small towns Interstate 30 tries to fling you past en route to Texarkana or points farther east. While this one’s charms include assorted antique shops and an incredibly ornate, red stone courthouse, you’d be crazy to call it a dining destination.

Unless, that is, you’d eaten at Knight’s Head Inn, where a man named Bill Wingo serves food that is worth every inch of the 75 miles you drive to get it. Yes, even for lunch on an ordinary weekday, which is the only time his remarkable establishment is open. An unassuming sort, Wingo describes his fare as “highly eclectic,” a term that might be fitting for a hometown boy who taught university English before Julia Child’s books led him to his real vocation. Inadequate, though, to describe such dishes as Southwestern chicken and dumplings with corn and cilantro; or pan-fried salmon croquettes with lemon-honey mustard sauce; or Cajun-sauced meat loaf studded with halved cherry tomatoes. Each dish is sided with fresh vegetables and sour cream-potato yeast rolls and followed by fudge-pecan pie, lemon liqueur-glazed orange cake or-well, you get the picture. 11:30-2 Tuesday through Friday. Take I-30 east to Exit 124, go left on Broadway around Heritage Square and turn right on Main to 219. For information, call (903) 885- 1071. -Betty Cook



New Restaurants

Back to the Ranch

CALIENTE When Caliente originally opened it had a new-wave Mexican menu and a Southwestern look like De Nada’s other restaurants, Zuma and Blue Mesa. Now it’s “gone ranch”; the new menu is an amalgamation of the elements that make up Texas food: Southern cooking, barbecue and Tex-Mex.

The restaurant received a new look to go with the menu: Tables are covered in galvanized metal, booths are upholstered in a cowhide print and giant billboard ads for Cuervo Gold and Nocona boots serve as murals. It’s casual and comfortable, but our first visit was slightly rough going. For instance, the kitchen was out of die chicken pot pie we ordered. The food we did have was uneven also-the fajitas were good, but the smoked chicken was dry.

By our second visit, though, die wait-staff and kitchen had pulled together to make a memorable meal. One appetizer alone is worth a return visit-from a selection of quesadillas we ordered one filled with smoked Roma tomatoes, buttery ripe avocado slices and wilted sweet onions, the components held together with mellow, melted Jack cheese. A T-bone steak was a study in char and rose as requested; it was topped with jalapeno slices and garnished with deep-fried red onion rings. Another platter held a poblano chili Filled with a mix of corn, onion and chunked smoked chicken. It was grilled, not fried, and striped with barbecue and guacamole sauces. A soft brisket taco wasn’t as good as it could have been: The meat had a proper red stripe, but it should have been shredded; the bite-sized chunks were tough. The chicken pie was available this time and was filled with plenty of chicken, carrots, onion and red bell peppers.

It’s only fair to mention that I know the owners of Caliente, Liz and Jim Baron, and saw them at another table having dinner with their kids. Cynics may say that this accounted not only for the good service but for how well the kitchen performed, but I doubt il. The fact that the owner is likely to show up unexpectedly for dinner should be enough to keep a kitchen on its toes. 6881 Greenville Ave. 369-8600. Mon.-Thur. 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun. 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. All credit cards. Moderate. -Mary Brawn Malouf



Eating the Blues

BILLY BLUES BARBECUE BAR & GRILL I’ve grown wary of new places that trumpet their own arrivals with superlatives. Imagine my surprise, then, to find that this up-the-pike spinoff from San Antonio and Houston is almost exactly what it claimed to be, “a unique supper-club restaurant fusing live blues music with down-home delights.” Cancel “unique”-as witnessed in Southern blues-oriented decor and memorabilia-themed atmosphere, Billy Blues clearly wants to be to blues music what the Hard Rock Cafe is to rock-but otherwise, I found the description accurate.

And the food is unexpectedly good. Never mind the menu’s cutesy word plays: Terming appetizers Warm Up Acts and sandwiches Hand Jives becomes a forgivable idiosyncracy when something called Gimme Caps turns out to be juicy, whole mushroom crowns quick-fried in great, crunchy batter, served with better-than-average peppery cream gravy for dipping. I have to tell you, I hate fried mushrooms, and these were wonderful. So were Lightnin’ Bolts, whole jalapenos filled with cream cheese, batter-fried and delicious. On the sandwich side. Blues burgers come as thick, juicy, lean beef rounds charbroiled in a choice of sauces; the smoky pecan we tried was a flavorful winner. The Hard Luck Club stacks two barbecued meats-tender, skinless chicken breast and bias-sliced sausage, in this instance-on the same double-handful-sized bun as the burger.

Pinched Piggy, one of half a dozen Blues Plate Special barbecue entrees, was a serious portion of juicy, semi-shredded pulled pork shoulder, lean and flavorful. The rib plate listings yielded a full slab of baby backs, big as a stretched accordion, delectably crispedged and fall-off-the-bone tender.

Sandwiches come with one side dish, entrees with two, chosen from the menu’s half-dozen Sideboard listings. Barbecued green beans, big ol’ flat Kentucky Wonders, described by our waitress as “an acquired taste” turned out to be one we haven’t acquired yet. Other side dishes ranged from passable (rather soupy new potato salad) to superb (Sabine beans, terrific pintos cooked in beef broth; Blue Suede Shoestrings, lightly battered curly fries my youngest companion found addictive; Longneck Cornbake, a cheese-laced casserole of golden kernels roasted with ham and diced jalapeno).

Desserts were as mountainousiy oversized as everything else; encouraged by our waitress, who evidently feared we’d starve to death, we managed to choke down Chocolate Cake à la Billy and excellent warm peach cobbler with Blue Bell ice cream. 2020 N. Lamar (at McKinney). 871-0661. Sun.-Wed. 11 a.m.-midnight, Thur.-Sat. 11 a.m.-4 a.m. AE, DC, MC, V. Inexpensive to moderate. -Betty Cook



The Baskin-Robbins of Pizza

LIDO RAGAZZO “Voted the best gourmet pizza in Indianapolis five years straight” proclaims the big banner draped over the entrance to this former Quickie Burger. In slightly smaller letters, the sign advertises “California-style” pizza. Will Dallasites flock to eat Indianapolis’ favorite California pizza? The menu reads like a grocery list of gourmet ingredients, though, and since Dallasites consume pounds of mediocre pizza, it’s likely that die word-of-mouth will get around about the over-achievers flipping dough at Lido Ragazzo.

We began with some award-winning (in Indianapolis, one assumes) garlic bread, soft toasted slices covered with melted cheese, and chilled salads of greens tossed with slivers of carrots, red cabbage, black olives and shredded cheese. We also had a glass of warm Chianti served inexpertly by our well-meaning waitress. Then it was on to the pizza de resistance.

Pine nuts, crab, albacore tuna, snow peas, caviar, water chestnuts, hearts of palm, chorizo, goat cheese, eggplant, baby clams, barbecue chicken and avocado are just a few of die exotic toppings available à la carte here; it’s a mind-boggling list which could be disastrous if not used carefully. Bean sprouts, bacon, pineapple, jalapenos and pepperoncini are some of the 21 traditional toppings on the menu; we eschewed creativity and ordered preconceived pies (“signature pizzas”). Our selections were the “bazbeaux,” Lido Ragazzo’s original pizza topped with fresh basil, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes; the “Genova” combination of eggplant, mushrooms, tomato slices, basil and goat cheese; the “Basilica,” a pizza with pesto instead of tomato sauce, feta cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and black olives; and the “Mexican,” with Mexican sausage, avocado, black olives, red onions, green pepper. Cheddar cheese, pepperoncini and jalapeno.

As for the quality of this famous pizza, the funny thing is that every unusual ingre dient was invisible, smothered under a thick molten layer of aged mozzarella, so that all the different flavors were masked by melted cheese. Except for scattered sur prise bites, the pizzas tasted mostly of tomatoes and cheese. Still, Lido Ragazzo is certainly a cut above most pizzas, and if the choice of toppings is how you judge a pizza, it gets lots of points. 9777 Greenville Ave. 342-1885. Sun.-Wed. II a.m.-11 p.m., Thur.-Sat. II a.m.-midnight. All credit cards. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



Retro Metro

ORIGINAL JOE’S METRO GRILL corner of Elm and Crowdus, Joe’s is right in die heart of Deep Ellum and wraps up in one spot all the charm of a post-industrial neighborhood-brick walls, tall ceilings, cement floors, high windows.

The menu is something of an eyebrow-raiser. Restaurants are getting harder and harder to pigeonhole these days, with the blend of New American cooking with Italian, Thai, old-fashioned grill food, Mexican and everything else. But I haven’t seen a mix quite like Joe’s before. It’s sort of retro, sort of metro, with dishes ranging rather wildly from avant-garde grilled melon to a sloppy Joe sandwich. (The one description that does cover the whole gamut is inexpensive-nothing is over $13.95). If you’re inclined to gastronomic musings Joe’s menu raises the question, what is New American cooking these days?-but it’s best to ignore that for now and just talk about what we ate.

On our first visit, we were urged to try the coleslaw enchiladas. (Yes, you read that right.) So we did. The tortillas were filled with a tangy. shredded salad mixture and covered with a spicy barbecue sauce, sweeter than Mexican ranchero. and melted cheese. There’s really no way to make it sound palatable, but it was pretty tasty for the open-minded. Before the enchiladas, we tried the grilled fruit plate. I’ve had grilled pears before and liked them, and I liked them again-the hot grill intensifies the sweetness and the slight smoke is a nice contrast. But 1 draw the line at grilled watermelon. The actual flavor wasn’t bad, but the heat made the surface somewhat slimy, and well, it’s simply not a good idea.

My next meal with Joe veered back in time to the favorites on school cafeteria menus. One pasta dish was made with Swiss and American cheese, while the sandwich of the day was the sloppy Joe.

The blackboard-special wild mushroom soup was a deep-brown broth with meaty mushrooms, a slightly salty, almost Oriental-flavored soup with scallion circles floating in it. “Three treasure angel hair pasta” was actually spaghetti and better for it since angel hair would have been too fragile a noodle to bear the weight of the tenderloin, chicken strips and shrimp on top of it. A patty melt was another old-fashioned lunch choice, a thick medium-rare patty on toasted bread with smothered red onions and curly fries. The sloppy Joe consisted of tiny, tender strips of beef instead of ground meat in a slightly sweet tomato-based sauce on a bun. 2723 Elm. 747-9999. Mon.-Sat. Il a,m.-midnight. AE, MC,V. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



Dallas Ditch Debuts

EL ARROYO We used to call it “the Ditch” in Austin when it was down on 5th Street, a short walk from the co-op where my sister lived. That was when we measured Mexican food largely by the collegiate standards of proximity, beer price and tequila proportions. Judging by the kind of crowds at the new Dallas Arroyo, most of the clientele here have the same standards. In other words, this is a watering hole as much as an eatery. Decor is bright and simple, service is fast and friendly, there’s a big deck, lots of large tables and the whole place is loud. 7b give you an idea of the level of sophistication we’re talking about, the menu is printed on a fake tabloid sheet called die “Enquirer Nacional”; headlines read “400 Pound Ex-Beauty Queen Credits El Arroyo” and “North Dallas Housewife Sees Image of Patrick Swayze in El Arroyo Tortilla.” Similar slogans (like, “You have to eat somewhere”) are printed on the back of the waiters’ T-shirts.

Stay away from the high-falutin’ stuff like crab rolls with the telltale taste of fake crab and the so-called specialties, and stick to the tried and true-burritos. flautas, tamales. The cheese enchiladas, for exam ple, are no less than perfect, and at dinner, cost less than most lunch specials. Cheese enchiladas are, as the menu rightly states, the standard by which Tex-Mex is judged-the Ditch stuffs and sauces them to a perfect 10. The New Mexican-style stacked enchiladas filled with pulled brisket and topped with a fried egg are good, too. If you want to try something a little more adventurous, start with the fried, stuffed jalapenos, fat as miniature corny dogs with a mixture of rice and cheese mellowing the sting of the pepper, and a scoop of great guacamole-just the thing to go with a cheap happy-hour beer. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 202. 363-4464. Mon. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Tues.-Wed. 11 a.m.-11p.m., Thur.-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat. 10 a.m.-midnight, Sun. 10 a.m.-10p.m. All credit cards. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



A Roost for Poultry Lovers

CHICKEN CHICKEN The safest meat substance left to eat in the enlightened ’90s, is chicken. Or, as the owners of this new Old Town takeout call it. Chicken Chicken.

There’s hardly a restaurant left that doesn’t have a version of the boneless breast of chicken sandwich, a pallid substitute for the time- and grease-honored hamburger. But Chicken Chicken has gone whole hog-this is an entire (albeit small) restaurant based on chicken. Yes, there is a good version of the ubiquitous chicken breast sandwich-skinless, boneless, charred over a grill, but still moist and served on a (white or wheat) bun with pickles, lettuce, tomato and light mayonnaise. There is also a chicken salad sandwich in a pita pocket with everything mentioned above plus red onion.

But the linchpin of the entire concept is the whole roasted chicken; available either wood-grilled or rotisserie-cooked. Chicken Chicken’s chickens are little birds, slightly more than enough to feed one person. With the chicken you get a miniature loaf of com bread, or you can order a part-of-a-chicken dinner and cafeteria-style vegetables-mashed potatoes and gravy, carrot coins (large, hard, with a faint dill flavor), baked potato or potato salad, coleslaw, chicken stuffing (of course), Santa Fe corn (with red pepper) and rice. There’s a large chicken if you plan to eat with someone else-wisely, it’s only available cooked on the rotisserie, as grilling would dry out a chicken this size.

We liked Chicken Chicken’s chickens- cooked both ways. They were juicy and thin-skinned and tasted like Sunday dinner. The vegetables were not so impressive- either over- or under-cooked and uniformly without seasoning. We’ve also had a lot of chicken sandwiches that were more excit ing and delicious. And it’s true that this is not as quick a stop as you think it’s going to be: Service is one at a time and leisurely at that, but it’s faster than your own rotis serie. 5500 Greenville Ave. 361-2222. Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-9p.m. No credit cards. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



D Revisits

CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICAN

D Revisits Gloria’s. Used to be. Oak Cliff’s Gloria’s was homey and distinctly unsophisticated. No more-having prospered by virtue of its standout Salvadoran fare, this family-run eatery looks more polished with every visit. New, matching blond wood tables and chairs gleam against freshly pink-washed walls, the outside wears new cream paint and an expanded parking area has been smartly paved. The menu sports new listings, too. without robbing us of longtime favorites, thank God. Ce-viche-large chunks of pearly fresh fish, onions. cilantro and an occasional jalapeno slice in tart lime-was served with big, thick, crisp saltines; the dependably wonderful tamale was plump with chicken and potato cubes in seasoned masa perfumed from ils banana leal’ wrap. Asado de puerco. a marinated cut of lean pork, was nicely char-broiled: fileté de pescado’s catfish fillet was perfectly sautéed with garlic. A terrific warm black bean dip. as well as fresh salsa, stalled the meal. A flan surprise ended it: Besides the silken vanille standard we’ve always liked, the menu offered s new chocolate version we enjoyed enough to fore see future conflict in deciding between the two. 606 West Davis at Llewellyn. 948-3672. D, MC, V. Inexpensive. -B.C.



CHINESE

D Revisits Lovers Eggroll. This is probably the best takeout Chinese food in Dallas, and it’s cheap if you can resist over-ordering. My only suggestion would be to rename the place “Lovers Dump ling”-the eggrolls were disappointingly greasy and cabbagey, but the pan-fried dumplings (you have to wait) were wonderful: thin al dente dough crisped on one side and stuffed with herbed pork. Standards such as chicken with cashew nuts (lots of them) and garlic pork were also exemplary. Even the twice-fried chicken, one of those dishes that sometimes tastes like a breakfast cereal that collid ed with a bottle of Tabasco (sticky and sweet with an afterburn), was a good balance of flavors. Lovers Eggroll isn’t the fastest takeout around, but it’s plenty quick for the quality. 5360 W. Lovers Lane, Suite 205. 358-1318. No credit cards. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



ITALIAN

D Revisits Caffe Paparazzi. Paparazzi is proof that the Dallas idea of a neighborhood Italian restaurant has grown up-no spaghetti-and-meat balls here. This is a clean, slick little place, without a red check in sight, and the service was smooth and professional. Our carpaccio was paper-thin, the fat-streaked slices fragrant with olive oil. A special appetizer artichoke was stuffed with highly sea soned bread crumbs that slightly overpowered the delicate flavor of artichoke leaves but balanced out when you got to the heart and the bottom. Moz- zarella was baked with roasted peppers and crou tons in a ramekin, a little like Italian chili con queso or fondue. Pasta and fish were equally fine: the gnocchi, tender little potato flour dumplings served in a light tomato sauce, the housemade tortellini simple and savory and the salmon fillet perfectly cooked. 8989 Forest Lane, Suite 136. 644-1323. All credit cards. Moderate. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Mono’s. This small pasta cafe has ex panded and adopted the full-scale menu of its sister restaurants (on Forest Lane and in Piano). “Full scale” is an understatement-the menu at Momo’s is a real educational endeavor, and it almost comes as a surprise that the waitperson doesn’t present a pop quiz along with the check. Descriptions of each dish include a paragraph about its origin and prove nance as well as the key ingredients. Sometimes this is illuminating, sometimes just distracting. But generally. I enjoy all the fun facts to know and tell, especially since the food is so good. The translucent slices of carpaccio, hidden under a nest of nutty Parmesan shavings and surrounded by heaps of cu cumber moons, radish discs, shredded arugula and hearts of palm was delicious, as were the broad green pappardelle noodles alia diavola, tossed in a sweat-inducing sauce of chilies and tomatoes and the veal scaloppine with tissue-thin slices of prosci- utto with a glaze of lemon cream sauce. Unfor tunately, this Momo’s bears another family resemblance-the service was as excruciatingly slow and arrogant as it is at the Deep Ellum Momo’s. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. All credit cards. Moderate. -M.B.M.



MEXICAN

D Revisits Avila’s. I hesitate even to mention this tiny house on Maple. Surely if everyone knew about Avila’s there would be a line out the door. Avila’s has been reviewed before but ifs somewhat off the beaten track so it’s remained a quiet, dignified little place graciously serving excellent food.. The menu is a mix of Mexican home cooking and traditional Tex-Mex dishes-straightforward stuff like cheese enchiladas were good, but we preferred the more distinctive fare. From the blackboard we ordered appetizers: toasted black bean ravioli and goat cheese ravioli (made by Civello’s Raviolismo) smothered with ranchero sauce. The selection of housemade tamales varies daily: we had some stuffed with spicy beans, their soft texture blending with the slightly sweet masa. For enchiladas Mexi-canas, the tortillas were first dipped in a brick-red ancho chili wash, then rolled around the cheese and sauced. They reminded me of New Mexican enchiladas, but owner Richard Avila said the recipe came from his father’s family in Monterrey, Mexico. Another family specialty, a stew of chicken and squash in chili sauce was delicious with the thick griddled flour tortillas. Avila’s is a rarity I hope 1 haven’t spoiled. 4714 Maple. 520-2700. AE. Inexpensive.

-M.B.M.



D Revisits Flamingo Joe’s. The emphasis here is on “tropical” Mexican food, which generally translates as “lots of seafood.” This is not a big attraction for me; we are. after all. many miles from the nearest beach. Anyway, what’s wrong with plain old south-of-Plano Mexican food? But at least one of Flamingo Joe’s seafood specialties-a flour tortilla covered with shrimp, a chunky chili-spiked ranchero sauce and a layer of lacy melted cheese- is great. The brisket-stuffed tamales sounded good but they were, as they say. not so hot-the masa covering was thick and dry around the meager filling. Steak tampico was a good platter though the meat was not the tenderloin advertised; however, it was flavorful, the white borracho beans were good and the cheese enchiladas were Fine. 2712 Main. 748-6065. All credit cards. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



NEW AMERICAN

D Revisits Laurels. Dining here is a stratospheric experience in every way, from a serenely splendid penthouse setting to service of the consummately professional sort rarely seen outside me haughtier houses of Europe. Prices, too, are right up mere at nosebleed altitudes, although a daily changing prix- fixe menu at $39.50 for five courses offers room for relief from à la cane selections that make that figure look modest. Our recent sampling a! both extremes proved satisfying, if somewhat less inspired than on past visits. Even- dish was beautifully presented. but the prix fixe’s fried yellow tomato salad proved that me yellow variety of this fruit, no matter how prettily commeal-crusted, simply hasn’t the flavor of its homier green cousin, although the plate’s summer field greens were flawlessly dressed. The same menu’s entree, a rather dry oven-poached hal ibut fillet not quite thoroughly deboned, came off a decided second-best to the à la carte’s peppercorn- crusted rack of lamb, rosy riblets accompanied by twin twirled towers of basil-breamed mashed pota toes. Chef Brian Koldziej’s addition of shrimp to Laurels’ trademark lobster enchilada was accept able, if not a needed improvement. In the interest of dietary correctness, a number of dishes were starred, with calories and fat content noted; I need hardly mention that our desserts were not among them-the only low-cal aspect of flourless choco late cake was its strawberry-kiwi salsa, and the Bai ley’s pecan crème brulée was every bit as satiny and sinful as I remembered. Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit. 385-3000. All credit cards. Very ex pensive. -B.C.

D Revisits Chaplin’s. Apologies were effusive during and after our 45-minutc bar wail past reservation time in this prime Lower Greenville dinery. But the food would have made up for the lapse even if cordial service hadn’t-Chaplin’s still cooks up special-occasion fare at near-everyday prices. My companion swooned with joy over the seafood tamale, with its whisper of piquance: while 1. who had graciously yielded that favorite appetizer to her, was rewarded with a celestial congregation of cheese-hearted spinach pasta ravioli, crowned with four huge, grilled shrimp in basil-kissed marinara sauce. Salads-snapping-fresh Caesar and garden, a tossed mélange of many colors-were rather overdressed, but entrees were memorable. The grilled Norwegian salmon fillet, all moist delicacy in dill Dijon sauce, was sided with buttery bell pep per-flecked couscous and many sauléed vegetables. The crisp-edged calf’s liver, grilled with apple- smoked bacon, onion and tomato in red wine sauce, was rosemary fragrant and divine, nestled among complementary cabbage and squash sautée and roasted new potato quarters. We couldn’t take it all in. of course, what with saving room for the obliga tory Stilton cheesecake, addictive as always under its fling of strawberries and mint leaves,. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. CB, D, DC, MC, V. Moderate to expensive. -B.C.



SOUTHWESTERN

D Revisits Loma Luna. While it’s my considered opinion that regional cuisine is better left in its region, it’s clear that I’m in a minority. And, though Loma Luna, with its adobe walls and beehive fireplace seems like an anomaly, the food is good, and if you crave a taste of New Mexico, a meal here is cheaper man a ticket to Santa Fe. Salsas are hot, and the smoked Sandia Range chicken is moist and tender, while the enchiladas are stacked and richly messy. Plates come authentically completed with pozole (hominy) or beans (not refrieds). Margaritas are particularly good here, and I always have one of my favorite desserts-vanilla ice cream topped with cinnamony cajeta (carmelized milk). 8201 Preston, Suite 100. 691-1552. AE, DC. Moderate.

-M.B.M.



TAKEOUT/DELI

D Revisits Preizler’s Delicatessen. This alt- fresh, devotedly kosher oasis serves up as Une a late-breakfast spread as any solo Sunday-paper reader (me, in this case) or multigeneration family group (everybody else, on the Sunday I was here) could easily imagine, let alone ingest. The day’s- special cheese omelette was a vast, pillowy thing: when I wavered over which cheese to choose, ac commodating service solved the problem by adding both Cheddar and Swiss in generous amounts, along with a mountain of peerless french fries, a fat. toasted bagel and much cream cheese. A potato knish ordered on the side was intriguing overkill, its thin pastry skin golden-crisp wrapping for a rather dense interior. The corned beef sandwich I took out for later was stacked thick with thin-sliced lean meat on Fine rye bread, which, like all breads and pastries here, is baked on the premises. Potato salad was flavorful and crunchy, and the deli half-dill in cluded was a true-to-form classic. Check Preizler’s out daytimes-the deli’s not open for dinner (or at all on Saturdays). 116 Preston Valley Shopping Center at LBJ Freeway (southwest corner). 458-8896. MC, V. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.



D Revisits Tommaso’s. At least pasta freezes well so when I do get out to Tommaso’s (a long drive for me), I stock up. Everything here is as good at home as it is in the store. Rotolo. a sheet of pasta folded up jellyroll style around a filling of spinach and ricotta, zapped and covered with alfredo sauce, and oversized ravioloni, stuffed with cheese and lapped with a barely cooked tomato sauce, both re heat beautifully. The cold salads-cheese-stuffed tortellini with pesto and pine nuts, pasta paolina. a wonderful concoction of leeks, raisins, pine nuts, a hint of hot pepper and olives, and pasta caprese, square spaghetti with mozzarella, tomato and basil-are good right out of the container. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158. 991-4040. MC, V. Inex pensive. -M.B.M.



D Recommends



BARBECUE

Arnold’s Texas Barbecue. 601 N. Haskell. 826-1234. Inexpensive.

Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. lnexpensive.

Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.

Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.

Riscky’s. 1701 N. Market, Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive.

R.J.’S Sho-Nuf. 3910 Maple Ave. 528-5230. Inexpensive.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. 302 N. Market 744-1610. Inexpensive.



BRITISH

Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Inexpensive to moderate.

Outback Pub. 1701 N. Market. Suite 105. 761-9355. Inexpensive.



BURGERS

Allen Street Bar & Grill. 2900 McKinney Ave. S71.ii256. Inexpensive to moderate.

Balls Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. 4343 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-2525. Inexpensive.

Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. Inexpensive.

Club Schmitz. 966! Denton Drive. 902-7990. Inexpensive.

Deep Elmer’s. 2615 Commerce. 748-9898. Inexpensive.

EZ’s. 6838 W. Northwest Hwy. 750-6677. Inexpensive. B.O. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.

The Green Elephant Bar and Grill. 5612 Yale. 750-6625. Inexpensive.

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.

Snuffers. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway. Addison. 991 -8811. Inexpensive.

Starlight Diner. 2715 Elm. 747-STAR. Inexpensive.

State. 3611 Parry Ave. 821-9246. Inexpensive.

Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222, Inexpensive.



CAJUN

Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Cafe Margaux. 4527 Travis. 520-1985. Moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive.

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 101, Piano. 423-0533. inexpensive to moderate.

Nate’s Seafood & Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Road. Addison- 701-9622. Moderate.

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen. 3520 Oak Lawn. 521 -4700. Moderale to expensive.

Red’s Cajun Queen. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-9777. Inexpensive to moderate.



CHINESE

August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy. Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.

Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th. Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.

Canton Chinese Restaurant. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.

Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway. Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

Far East. 4830 Greenville Ave. 373-6041. Inexpensive.

First Chinese Barbecue. MIS. Greenville Ave.. Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.

General China. 1920 Skillman. 827-3688. Inexpensive.

Henry Chen’s. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 956-9560. Moderate.

Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk, Suite 200 Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

Hunan Restaurant. 5214 Greenville Ave. 369-4578. Inexpensive to moderate.

May Dragon. 4848 Beit Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line. Suite 200, Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.

Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 1152 N. Buckner. Suite 128, Casa Linda Plaza. 321-7599. Moderate.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut, Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.

Texas Jade. 3227 McKinney Ave. 871-8898. Moderate.

Tong’s. I 1661 Preston, Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tone’s House. 1910 Promenade Center. Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.



ETHIOPIAN

Dallul. 2515 Inwood. 353-0804. Inexpensive to moderate.

River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Addison Cafe. 5290 Belt Line, Suite 108. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.

Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive.

Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane, Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.

Ernie’s. 5100 Belt Line. Suite 502. 233-8855. Moderate to expensive.

Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel, 2927 Maple. 871-2523. Expensive.

Frenchy Cafe. 2240 Gus Thomasson. 328-8474. Moderate.

The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Very expensive.

The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.

Juniper. 2917Fairmoum. 855-0700. Expensive.

La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-0800. 3906 Lemmon Ave. 521-0183. 628 NorthPark Center. 696-2398. 11930 Preston (at Forest). 233-6448. Galleria. at ice rink level. 991-7790. Inexpensive.

L’Ancestral. 4314 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-J 927. Moderate.

Le Caviste. 5405 W. Lovers Lane. 352-6512. Moderate.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kempinski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.

The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.

Pierre’s By The Lake. 3430 Shorecrest. 358-2379. Moderate to expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

St. Martins. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.

Sweet Temptations. 9090 Skillman. 503-6007. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tony’s Wine Warehouse and Bistro. 2904 Oak Lawn. 520-9463. Inexpensive.

Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave., 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.

The Wine Press. 4217 Oak Lawn. 522-8720. Moderate to expensive.

York St. 6047 Lewis. 826-0968. Expensive.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN

Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto, in the Crestpark Hotel. 528-6510. Expensive.

Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.

The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.

Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Road. 320-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hoffstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek. 3840 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 400. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231.3121 Ross. 821-3121. Inexpensive.



GREEK

Cafe Greek. Preston Valley Shopping Center, Preston Road at LBJ. 934-9767. Moderate.

Cafe Nelu. 56 Arapaho Village (Arapaho and West-shore I, Richardson. 235-5387. Inexpensive to moderate.

Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.

Kosta’s Cafe. 4914 Greenville Ave. 987-3225. Inexpensive.

The M Street Grill. 2014 Greenville Ave. 826-8989. Inexpensive to moderate.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill, Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.



HOME COOKING

Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.

Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Inexpensive to moderate.

Chubby’s. 11333 E. Northwest Hwy. 348-6065. Inexpensive.

Farmer’s Grill. 4015 Lemmon Ave. 521-2281. Inexpensive.

Gennie’s Bishop Grille. 321 N. Bishop. 946-1752. Inexpensive.

Good Eats Cafe. 3888 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. 14905 Midway, Addison. 392-3287. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.

Mama’s Daughters’ Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. 2610 Royal Lane. 241-8646. Inexpensive.

Original Market Diner. 4434 Harry Hines. 521 0992. Inexpensive.

The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.

Theo’s Diner. MIS. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St. Paul. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive to moderate.



INDIAN

Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center, Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

Ashoka Indian Cuisine. 5409 Bell Line, Preston-wood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.

India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston, Suite 105. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson, 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village, Central at Belt Line. Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.

Shusmi. 859 N.E. Green Oaks, Arlington. (817) 860-8728. Moderate.

Taj Mahal. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N. Central Expwy., Suite 179.692-0535. Moderate.



IRISH

Tipperary Inn. 2818 Greenville Ave. 823-7167. Inexpensive.



ITALIAN

Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Expensive.

Amici Signature Italian. 1022 S. Broadway, Carrollton. 245-3191. Moderate to expensive.

Andiamo’s. 4151 Belt Line. 233-1515. Moderate to expensive.

Angelo’s. 6341 La Vista. 823-5566. Inexpensive to moderate.

Arcodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871 – 1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Capriccio. 2515 McKinney Ave. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti Restaurant and Pizzeria. 3505 W. Northwest Hwy. .150-7456. Inexpensive.

Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd.. in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 712-7144. Moderate.

Ferrari’s. 703 McKinney Ave., in The Brewery. 954-1112. Moderate to expensive.

Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.

il Nonno’s. Hyatt Regency D/FW, East Tower. 453-8400. Moderate to expensive.

Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.

La Trattoria Lombardl’s. 2916 N. Hall. 954-0803. Moderate.

Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 901 Main Place, Suite CI06 in the NCNB Building. 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mi Piaci. 14854 Montfort. 934-8424. Moderate to expensive.

Mise En Place. 7011 Lomo Alto. 520-2424, Inexpensive to moderate.

MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Lane. Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 370. Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.

Nero’s. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.

Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive to moderate.

Piccola Cucina. 1030 NorthPark Center. Suite 330. 691-0488. Moderate.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Bell Line. Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.

Rodolfo’s. 59.16 Royal Lane. 368-5039. inexpensive to moderate.

Romano’s Macaroni Grill. 4535 Bell Line. Addison. 386-3831.5858 Northwest Hwy. 265-0770. Moderate.

Ruffino’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 153. 890-7555. Moderate.

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate to expensive.

Scuro. 2713 Elm St. 741 -0111. Moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871 -2606. 1510! Addison Road. Addison. 960-2606. Moderate.

Sweet Basil. 17610 Midway. 733-1500. Moderate.

Tivoli’s. 2013 Greenville Ave. 824-2013. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.



JAPANESE

Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coil. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 In wood. 991-8322. Moderate.

Hibachi-Ya Japanese Steak House. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy.. Suite 510. 350-11 10. Inexpensive.

Mr. Sushi. 4860 Bell Line. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 360. Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.

Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. 3455 N. Bell Line, Irving. 594-6911. Moderate.

Sushi-Yama. 8989 Forest Lane. Suite 112. 234-3474. Inexpensive to moderate.



KOREAN

Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood. 351-6922. Moderate.

Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut. 272-9909. Inexpensive to moderate.

Koreans. 12101 Greenville Ave.. #107, 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.



MEDITERRANEAN

Adeline’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate.

Blind Lemon. 2805 Main Si. 939-0202. Inexpensive to moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7410. Very expensive.

Main St. News. 2934 Main St. 746-2934. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sambuca. 2618 Him St. 744-0820. Moderate.



MEXICAN

Balderas Tex Mex Restaurant. 3851 Cedar Springs, #A. 526-2180. Inexpensive to moderate.

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.

Cantina Laredo. 4546 Bell Line. Addison. 458-0962.8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.

Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.

Chapas. 1516 Greenville Ave. 826-0625. Inexpensive to moderate.

Chuy’s. 211 N. Retord. 747-2838. Moderate.

Cuquita’s. 2326 N. Henderson. 823-1057. Inexpensive to moderate.

Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.

Eduardo’s Acay Alla. 2914 Main. 748-7140. Moderate.

El Ranchito. 610 Jefferson. 946-4238. Inexpensive to moderate.

Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.

Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.

La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th. 941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate.

Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia. 827-1889. Inexpensive.

La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy, (al Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.

La Chocita. 108 University Village, Piano Road al Belt Line. Richardson, 690-4445. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy., at Preston, Suite 425. 980-72%. Moderate.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 105. 521-0721. 221 W. Parker. Suite 400. Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. Preston Park Village, 1900 Preston. Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Mattito’s Cafe Mexicano. 4311 Oak Lawn Ave. 526-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. inexpensive to moderate.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line. Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave, 526-1020. Inexpensive.

Mi Casa Tex Mex Restaurant. 8301 West chester. 890-9939. inexpensive to moderate.

Mi Cocina. 11661 Preston, Suite 138. 265-7704. Inexpensive.

Primo’s- 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tijuana Johnny’s. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-2281. Inexpensive to moderate.

Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon. 520-6620. Moderate.



MIDDLE EASTERN

Ali Baba. 1905 Greenville Ave. 823-8235. Inexpensive.



NATURAL

Agnew’s Natural Grill. 3011 Routh St. 720-3900. Moderate m expensive.

Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.



NEW AMERICAN

Actuelle. 500 Crescent Court, Suite 165. 855-0440. Expensive.

Aransas Pass. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-8650, Moderate to expensive.

Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive.

Avner’s. 25 15 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Moderate.

Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Moderate to expensive.

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.

Buffalo Club. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125, in the Quadrangle. 220-2465. Moderate to expensive.

By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.

Cafe Brazil. 6340 Gaston. 826-9522, Inexpensive to moderate.

City Cafe. 5757 Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.

The Conservatory. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3242. Very expensive.

Crockett’s. Doubletree Hotel at Lincoln Center, 5410 LBJ Frwy. 701-5160. Expensive.

Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard, 740-4001. Moderate to expensive. Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741 -9012. Moderate to expensive.

Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West. 1590 LBJ Frwy. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.

Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 170, in the Quadrangle, 954-0486. Inexpensive.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington’s. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive to very expensive.

Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Une. 69I-2355. Moderate to expensive.

Landmark Cafe. Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-515!. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Very expensive.

Nana Grill. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7470. Expensive to very expensive.

Natchez. 2810 N. Henderson. 821-4552. Moderate.

Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.

The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. in The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.

The Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Very expensive.

Quadrangle Grille. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 180. in the Quadrangle. 979-9022. Moderate.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.

650 North. 650 N. Pearl. 855-1708. Expensive.



SEAFOOD

Atlantic Cafe. 14866 Montfort. Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.

Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. 526-1170. Expensive.

Dinger’s Catfish Cafe. 8989 Forest Lane. 235-3251. Inexpensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600. Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.

Hampton’s. Preston Center. 84] 1 Preston. Berkshire Court. 739-3474. Moderate.

Jozef’s Seafood Restaurant. 2719 McKinney Ave. 954-0407. Moderate to expensive.

Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in The Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.

Yoli’s. 9220 Skillman. Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive.



SOUTHWESTERN

Aransas Pass. 2912 Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate to expensive.

Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.

Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. 821-6501. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Society. 4514 Travis, Suite 133. 528-6543. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.

Pecan Grill. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 739-9007. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ruby’s Greenville Avenue Cafe. 1916 Greenville. 826-4910. Moderate.

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court. Suite 100. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Zuma. 2701 Stemmons Frwy. 631-3050. Moderate.



SPANISH

Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.

White Swan Cafe. 2307 Abrams. 824-8122. Moderate.



STEAKS

Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger. off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.

Del Frisco’s. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Moderate Inexpensive.

Morton’s of Chicago. 501 Elm. 741-2277. Expensive.

Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of 1-35 ), 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.

Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive

Ruth’s Chris Steak House. 5922 Cedar Springs. 902-8080. Expensive.

Wellington Restaurant & Bar. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.



TAKEOUT/DELI

Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301 Oak Lawn, Suite A (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.

Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell. 248-0608. Inexpensive.

Bagelstein’s. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.

City Cafe To Go. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-3366. Moderate.

City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammel! Crow Center, Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.

Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.

Deli-News. 500 The Crescent Court. 922-DELI. 15775 Hillcrest. 392-DEL1. Inexpensive to moderate.

Gilbert’s New York Delicatessen. 127 Preston Forest Village. 373-3333. Inexpensive to moderate.

Henk’s European Deli. 5811 Blackwell Street. 987-9090. Inexpensive to moderate.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.

Pollo Bueno. 3438 Samuel! Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.



THAI

Bangkok City. 4301 Bryan at Peak. 824-6200. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sala Thai. 2415 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 108. 380-8945. Moderate.

Thai Cuisine. 1915 Central Expwy. (off Park). Piano. 422-5219, Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 4315 Bryan. 827-647$. Moderate.

Thai Lotus. 3851-D Cedar Springs. 520-9385. Inexpensive.

Thai Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.

Thai Siam. 9561) Skillman. 341-5835. Inexpensive.

Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.

Thai-Thai. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.

Thai Taste. 4501 Cole. 521-3513. Moderate.

Toy’s Cafe. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.



VIETNAMESE

Arc-en-Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut. Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cafe de Saigon. 5617 W. Lovers Lane. 350-8767. Moderate.

East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES

Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams. Arlington. Metro 817-261-0488. Moderate to expensive.

Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two. 2221 E. Lamar. Suite 910, Arlington. Metro 817-640-9981. Moderate.

China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur, Irving. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.

Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St.. Grapevine. Metro 817-481-4668. Inexpensive.

Gaspar’s. (New American) 150 S. Denton Tap Road. Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate.

Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E. Las Colinas Blvd., Suite 301, Irving. 869-4011. Moderate.

La Margarita. (Mexican) 3636 N. Belt Line, Irving. 570-1137. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Suprema. (Mexican) 6311 N. O’Connor, Irving. 506-0988. Moderate.

Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza, Arlington. Metro 817-261 -6604. Moderate.

Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.



FORT WORTH

Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450 W. Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.

Cafe Aspen. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.

Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield. (817) 731-6961. Inexpensive to moderate.

Jons Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.

Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.

Kincaid’s. (Burgers! 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.

Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. 1817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.

Michaels. (New American) 3413 W. Seventh. (817) 877-3413. Moderate to expensive.

Ristorante La Piazza. (Italian) 3431 West Seventh. (817) 334-0000. Moderate to expensive.

Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.

Saint Emilion. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.

Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3500 W. Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.

Water Street Seafood Co. (Seafood) 1540 S. University Drive. (817) 877-3474. Moderate.