RESTAURANTS & BARS

BEST WURST

While other establishments are Oktoberfeating it up all over Texas, Papa Joe’s Wursthaus will be carrying on business as usual, serving schnitzel and strudel and sauerbraten to Its crowd of German regulars. Those who know say Papa Joe’s is about as authentic as It gets food-wise, but the biergar-ten in back and the live music on Friday and Saturday nights certainly add to the realism. 2459 Southwell Road, 241-1107.

TWO BOYS AND THEIR DOG

HANGOUT When Pete Zotos and Sean O’Hara (at right) hung up their sign, we knew we had to drop by. Any bar named Angry Dog demands exploration. This new Deep Ellum bar and restaurant is a no-frills, Adair’s-like (only cleaner) watering hole for post-work cocktails or late-night pool and shuffleboard. The crowd is a mixed bag of bar folk, with everything from the starched shirt and silk tie set to an ample representation of professional barflies in standard attire. (We like a bar with texture.) Angry Dog is as friendly as the owners, both familiar faces on the local restaurant scene (their resumes include Dick’s Last Resort and the Palm). Even better, there are no gimmicks or attitudes to contend with, and cute is kept to a minimum (the vote’s still out on the restroom decor). We felt right at home.

-Laura Jacobus

Artistic Eating at the Kimbell

ON THE ROAD The Kimbell Art Museum is arguably the most classically serene environment in the Metroplex, but its restaurant, The Buffet, is acknowledged by culinary cognoscenti to be worth experiencing in its own right. However, it is on Sundays that The Buffet really shines, with a noon-to-two brunch, the perfect prelude to an afternoon art feast.

A fine mulligatawny curry soup is a cool-weather favorite; three-pepper cheese soup is another. Serve-yourself salads range from pastas with seafood to lentil and bulgur wheat. A sandwich might be tender roast beef packed into pita. Desserts are truly irresistible-apple pie and pineapple cake are stellar standards. You’ll have to have a piece, even if you’ve devoured your share of the hot loaves of brown bread. You owe yourself the whole experience; where else can you dine in world-class splendor, with a priceless sculpture visible in the courtyard beyond, for less than ten dollars? Beer and wine are available; coffee, tea, or lemonade are included. Tue.-Sat. 3333 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth. (817) 654-1034. -Betty Cook

The Barstool Debate

PET PEEVES It’s hard to maintain any sense of dignity sitting on a barstool. Even if you manage to get on one gracefully, just wait until you have to dismount. It can be tricky. Some barstools are less cruel than others, but the cruelty quotient has a lot to do with uncontrollable genetic factors such as sex, height, and length of skirt.

Definition of the perfect barstool comes to us from Thomas Rittinger, formerly of the Mansion, and now of Cafe America. Tom’s idea of barstool perfection transcends genetic boundaries and sounds too good to be true. So far it is. But we’re still looking.

“The perfect barstool needs to swivel- and it’s best if it’s an unrestricted 360 degrees. It needs to have a comfortable back with a cushioned seat that’s not too soft. And it can’t wobble. Most important, the legs have to have the stepladder effect. You need a rail around, one low, one high, so you can bring your knees up if you like.”

As a measure of his objectivity, Tom refuses to promote the barstools at his current workplace, Cafe America, which he says are comfortable enough except for one little design flaw. “I wish I had a nickel for every customer that has ever come in here and tried to pick one up and move it and then got a funny look on his face. They’re bolted to the floor,” He does, however, give his former employer, the Mansion, high marks, which would be even higher “if they had backs.”

-Brad Bailey

HANGOUT OF THE MONTH

For a post-Oktoberfest culture adjustment, polka down to Billy Miner’s Saloon, 150 W. 3rd in downtown Fort Worth. We love its thick burgers and beer, and a floor covered in patron-discarded peanut husks is perfect Cowtown ambience.

CHEAP EATS

GREAT CAESARS

After years of yielding stellar status to baby greens and prissy nouvelle compositions, comeback-at pleasantly down-to-earth prices:

Aristocrat Clarion Hotel Bar and Grill proudly produces the sion we’ve seen, lovingly mixed at ta-bleside in absolutely traditional style-a meal-sized masterpiece. S5.95. 1933 Main St.

Bistro Bagatelle expresses chef-owner Gerard Bahon’s con-color as well as texture and taste-ho adds a flash of diced tomato and tiny black olives to the toss, which is mixed and dressed in his Arlington kitchen. $4.50. 406 W. Abrams.

Ciair de Lune’s classic style comes untranslated from the original, bathing tender romaine leaves in lemon and olive oil, singed with mustard and anchovy, bound creamy egg. $4.50. 5934 Royal Lane.

Scampi’s strips some of the mystique from its message by forgoing the anchovy in favor of a sparkling mustard vinaigrette. The result, though mild, is satisfactory-especially considering that the $5.95 dinnersize Caesar can be included in the restaurant’s prix-fixe three-coursa lunch, all for $6.50. 2704 Worthington.

Seterry’s dazzling tableside sleight-of-hand display holds the whole restaurant’s crowded dining room enthralled. Heavy on the anchovies, the light-on-price dinner Caesar ($4.50), expands to include shrimp and mushroom garnish for a main dish at lunch ($6.50.) 4930 Camp Bowie.

-Betty Cook

NEW RESTAURANTS

Small Menu, Large Attitude

CHIANTI RESTAURANT AND PIZZERIA Chianti has sliced off a sliver of its expanded space, furnished it with mismatched chairs and tables decked out in red-checked tablecloths, and presto! a pizzeria is born, one that we have found to be good if a bit wacky.

The first surprise of our visit was the background music of Italian rock ’n’ roll. Imagine Italian versions of “These Boots Are Made for Walking,” Sam & Dave’s “Hold On,” and “Eve of Destruction” and you get the picture. (By the way, does anyone besides me remember Barry McGuire?) The next surprise was our affable, slightly cocky waiter, who offered us treats “on the house” that he never delivered, in addition to forgetting my entire dinner order. However, he took huge pride in preparing a tableside Caesar salad (a rough and gutsy one made with real eggs and tons of garlic) while alternately addressing us in French, Italian, Arabic, and English. He also promised to make us a copy of the Italian rock ’n’ roll tape, so his forgetfulness was forgiven.

Intended as a casual alternative to the dimmer, more hushed main restaurant, the pizzeria’s blackboard menu is severely limited, listing only pizza (10- or 12-inch), lasagna, green salad, and spaghetti with meat sauce or meat balls. But you can also order from the complete Chianti menu if pizza is not your pleasure, or if the kids want pizza and the grown-ups prefer something more complicated or elaborate. We tried it all, mostly to our satisfaction.

The best pizza we tried was topped with artichoke hearts and onion; the crust was thick, but crisp and light, only wilting in the middle from the weight of tomato sauce and cheese. The Italian sausage-topped pie came out slightly too oily but was still good. Lasagna, served in an individual ramekin, should have rested awhile before being served. It was still so hot it turned to soup after you cut it a few times, but the rich layers of pasta, cheese, mushrooms, and sauce were tasty, if messy.

From Chianti’s main menu we tried “polio vesuvio,” a boned breast of chicken topped with a thick slice of eggplant, then covered with marinara sauce and cheese and served with a delectable saute of green beans, onions, and carrots and a plate of farfalle in tomato sauce. The accompanying pizzeria salad was mostly crisp, cold romaine, coated with a creamy garlic dressing and garnished with a few tomato wedges-better than the typical rabbit food you encounter at most pizza joints.

For dessert, we selected Chianti’s cappuccino pie (the familiar one with the cookie crust) and the creme caramel (bubbly and bland), which we found were altogether skippable. Wine (white, red, or pink) is available by the glass, or you can order from the restaurant list. 9526 Webb Chapel Rd. 350-7456. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner daily 5:30 p.m.-10:03 p.m. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive. -Mary Brown Malouf

A Promising Future

CAFE ASPEN When La Maree closed in Fort Worth a while back, ripples of dismay reached as far as Dallas-the kicky little New American depot, meant to be mostly for the lunch and after-work takeout trade, served dinner only on weekends. The dinners were stellar, though, and popular among cognoscenti on both sides of the Trinity.

The good news, then, is that the cafe has reopened under a new owner and a different name, Cafe Aspen, and that the food and management are still in the same hands (Louise Lamensdorf is executive chef). The not-so-good news is that the food, at least on our dinner visit, was not as outstanding as before the change.

Not that there was that much to complain about, apart from one appetizer: cafe dumplings, a fried cabbage specialty, arrived from the kitchen as hard and dry as briquettes, impenetrable even with a knife. Observing our attempts to cut them, the horrified hostess sent them back and removed them from our bill.

Crab cakes, though, were nicely zipped with lime remoulade. Caviar quesadillas delivered onion crunch with cream cheese, sour cream, and chopped egg, if only a sprinkle of caviar. Baked Brie was a standout, the Brie brightened with Gorgonzola-sparked herbed bread crumbs.

The house salad was terrific-mixed greens, grapes, and black olives blending with avocado-lime dressing in a fling of black sesame seeds. And the Rio Grande Salad, playing cilantro and grapefruit sections against green onion and greens, shone in honey mustard dressing.

I shall not soon forget the tea duck, which looked forbiddingly leathery in its smoke-blackened skin, but which proved miraculously moist and tender, scented with an Oriental spice marinade, the skin itself a haunting delicacy from its tea-leaf smoking. It was the most memorable entree we tried; the least was sea bass Marseilles, a thick cut of the firm, frankly fishy flesh in a heavy bouillabaisse sauce. Stuffed leg of lamb was happily herbed in Noonday onion sauce; a grilled chicken breast mated tenderly with smoked red pepper sauce.

Too surfeited to attempt desserts, we contented ouselves with next-time appraisals of the rich array displayed in the dining room’s central table. There definitely will be a next time-Cafe Aspen hasn’t yet reached the heights of its predecessor, but the promise is there. 3416 W. Seventh Street, Fort Worth. 817-877-0838. Lunch Tue.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner Thurs.-Sat, 6 p.m.-9:30 p.m. Takeout Tue.-Sat. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive. -Betty Cook

The Real Thing

ARMANDOS CAFE This tiny space- supplemented in fair weather by tables outdoors-used to house a fine little Mexican restaurant, but this new establishment is even better. It is family run, and the Mexican dishes here, as at so few places these days, taste as if real people rather than giant machines have cooked them. The quality doesn’t show up so much in the appetizers (better-than-average nachos, a rather greasy mixture of spicy sausage and cheese called chorqueso for wrapping in flour tortillas). And there are no desserts at all. But the main dishes we sampled at Armando’s were definitely memorable.

A measure of the authenticity of the Mexican food at Armando’s is the platters featuring huaraches-the Spanish word for peasant shoes, meaning in this case shells of tortilla dough about the size of an adult hand and the texture of not-too-thick pizza crust. Drizzled with spicy green sauce and melted cheese, they are as delicious as they are unusual. At Armando’s, they are also part of plate dinners like the Adan (or Adam), which comes with a Mexican-style pork chop. There are also combinations made up of more familiar items; the Oaxaqueno includes the cheesiest enchiladas imaginable and definitive refried beans.

The more ambitious dishes at Armando’s reward exploration, too. The guiso de res– Mexican beef stew-heartily blends tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes with strips of tenderloin. The version of chicken mole is perhaps the best around. The dense, rich, mahogany-colored sauce contrasts magnificently with purest white breast meat. All of the food here is priced modestly-platters cost between five and six dollars and the more complex dishes are about seven. 2414 N. Fitzhugh. 824-8303. Mon.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. No credit cards. Inexpensive.

-W.L. Taitte

Fax Food

BJ’S FAX GRILLE BJ’s gimmick is that they have a fax machine to receive orders and a separate fax menu on which to write down your requirements. Even if you order inside the restaurant, your meal comes in a brown paper bag-you have to ask for a plate if you prefer eating on one.

The hamburgers can be ordered with one-third or two-thirds of a pound of beef or in a junior quarter-pound version. Be sure to specify on the line asking for “Special Requests” if you don’t like your hamburger well done. As a rule, they don’t even come out pink here. The Tejas burger (with chili and cheese in addition to pickle, lettuce, onion, and mustard) is worth considering, though the combination of chili, pickle, and mustard makes for an unusually sharp flavor. The BLG burger, with real, crunchy bacon, lettuce, and guacamole, is less interesting than it sounds-rather bland, in fact.

The lightest thing on BJ’s smallish menu is the grilled chicken breast sandwich, served on a whole-wheat bun with a sweet honey mustard dressing. The heaviest is the chicken-fried steak sandwich-crisp and tasty with the addition of a little extra mayonnaise. Otherwise there are baked potatoes, a perfunctory salad bar, very crisp French fries, and cornmeal-battered onion rings. 5365 Spring Valley, #148 (west of Mont fort). 788-4996. Fax number, 458-1329. Mon.-Fri. 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat. 11 a.m.-4:30 p.m. AE. Inexpensive. -W.L.T.

D REVISITS

BARBECUE

D Revisits Spring Creek Barbeque. This is a country with a “k” kind of place. with lots of wood railings and red checks; on our visit, it was also chaotic. How the food tasted became almost secondary to the frantic process of getting it and finding a place to sit and eat it. The service line clogged up like Central Expressway at the end, where you were supposed to take an ice-filled glass for your beverage. There were no glasses, and though there were drink stations elsewhere, none of them was slocked with glasses or ice. The place wasn’t more than half full, but there were only one or two tables that had been cleared; by the time we left, all the tables were dirty. However, we did even tually sit and eat: rather dry chicken, lender but tasteless ribs, and decent beef with hot barbecue sauce. 270 N. Cen tral Expwy. 669-0505. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.

BURGERS

D Revisits Purdy’s. Efficient enough to make a good place for a business lunch and fun for a family at night, Purdy’s delivers massive burgers on soft buns that have been nicely grilled. You dress the sandwiches yourself at a sidebar brimming over with sliced onions, tomatoes, pickles, leaf lettuce, and even sprouts. Hot dogs are also excellent here- the long poorboy buns take to grilling particularly well. But don’t bother with the gumbo or the sweet, bland chili. And the seafood salad is really only for those who have sworn off red meat. For dessert there are Dove bars and fancy frozen ices, or you can pick up CD-sized oatmeal or chocolate-chip cookies. 4812 Belt Line, Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E. Camp bell, Suite 101, Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnut Hill at Story Ln. 255-6447. Inexpensive. -W.L.T.

CAJUN

D Revisits Cafe Margaux. Consistently good Cajun- Creole fare, rare in Dallas, is comfortably standard here; our last visit found nothing of consequence to fault, and much to laud. Fried oysters were juicy and fresh in crisp com meal on mild beurre blanc sauce; a shrimp and crawfish enchilada was plumply filled and flavorful under its pico de gallo crown. The day’s special entree, a generous cut of red snap per, was firm and tender in a piquant tomato sauce that, though slightly oversalted, was loaded with toothsome crawfish morsels; pork loin slices were admirably seasoned in jalapeno-scented mushroom sauce. Vegetables were outstanding-baby limas, oven-roasted potatoes, a healthy saute of green and yellow squash. Dessert was likewise- servings are so hearty here that one hardly has room for a final sweet, but I never can resist the house bread pudding; served burn-the-baby hot in a light Jack Daniel’s whiskey sauce, it is definitive, and as close to ideal down-home Southern comfort as dining out ever gets. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate. -B.C.

CHINESE

D Revisits Taiwan. Reviews and awards plaster the en- iry of this big Greenville Avenue favorite like wallpaper. The media and critics have loved Taiwan since its opening; it has no need to blow its own horn-there’s always an appropriate quotation to do the blowing. The menu itself boasts in quota tions: “The best egg rolls in Dallas.” And they probably are: flaky-crusted wrappers so tender you wonder that they can hold such a substantial filling of pork and cabbage. But equally good are the fried dumplings, scalloped marvels as lovely as they are tasty. The chicken slices on the cold chicken salad were slightly oily, but they were lapped with a deep, dark sesame sauce, and the “paper chicken,” boneless morsels in twisted foil packets, were fragrant with ginger and garlic-pleasant packages to open. Lemon chicken was an excellent version, and the sizzling rice shrimp-shellfish, green peas, water chestnuts over crispy rice cakes in a red sauce-was wonderful. 6111 Greenville Aw. 369-8902. Moderate. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Snow Pea. l’m a big fan of unpretentious, neighborhood restaurants, and Snow Pea definitely fits that category, but the best thing about our last visit there was the psychedelic sunset we walked out into afterwards. Appetizers were mediocre: fried won tons were big, but we couldn’t find any filling. Dumplings were big and heavy, the thick, doughy wrapping holding a wad of pork filling; the accompanying dip was plain soy sauce. Entrees were only somewhat better. The best was Tiah Bora beef, inch-thick chunks of rare beef with baby com. mushrooms, snow peas, and water chestnuts in a brown gravy-like sauce-a very meat and potatoes kind of dish. Triple fragrance shrimp, chicken, and beef sauteed in a sweet garlic sauce had none of the promised fire, and the four delights of kung pao- shrimp, beef, scallops, and chicken with the usual pao peanuts and vegetables-was also rather bland. 2007 Abrams (at Gaston). 824-4354. Inexpensive to moderate. -M.B. M.

ETHIOPIAN

D Revisits Dallul. The sign outside says “Dallul Italian Restaurant,” hut that is misleading in the extreme. Dallul is run by Ethiopian emigres, and there is an Italian-Ethiopian connection historically. But none of the dishes we have sampled from the Italian menu, except maybe the ziti, was worth ordering. The Ethiopian menu, on the other hand, offers some of the best African dishes we have found in an American restaurant. The yebej wott proved that the bony neck cuts of lamb make for the best flavor and texture in a stew, and tibisi, a spicy braised beef, was delicious. Kitfo, the African version of beef tartare, seemed to have been both marinated and lightly cooked. Of course, in Ethiopian res taurants all the native dishes are brought to the table on one large platter lined with the rubbery bread called injera. More injera is served to be used in lieu of fork or spoon in eating all the tasty things such as mild and spicy lentils. chopped greens, and stewed vegetables that come along with the main dishes. 2515 Inwood (at Maple). 353-0804. Inex pensive to moderate. -W.L.T.

FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

D Revisits Ernie’s. The decor is not especially retro, but the food and service styles at Ernie’s make an evening here a blast from the past. A piano straddles the bar and dining rooms, and the songs seem to be about Nat King Cole vin tage. So does the habit of cooking everything possible tableside. Among the starters, the Caesar salad is a good ver sion, and the Brie soup is a fine old creamy mushroom soup recipe with a touch of the French cheese thrown in. Both are preferable to the calamari with marinara sauce. Alt the en trees we sampled here were tasty, although lobster was scarce in the fettuccine with lobster sauce. A special of sauteed salmon garnished with scallops and jumbo shrimp boasted two sauces in contrasting colors. Steak Diane was doused with loads of spirits in its tableside metamorphosis, but the superbly tender medallions of beef held their own. Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Line. Suite 502. 233-8855. Moderate to expensive. -W.LT.

D Revisits The French Room. The menu here offers a contrast of the ancient and the modern: the right side is a compendious list of classical (though by no means dowdy) French specialties, and the left offers creations so nouvelle you sometimes wonder if you have wandered onto Routh Street by mistake. If you and your companion in these romantic environs are not too timid to share tastes of each other’s dishes, you can profit from this bimenuality to order a dinner especially strong in variety. What could contrast better with an imperial slice of duck foie gras in Calvados than newfangled shrimp ravioli floating on a tropical-look ing mango sauce. Thai-style? Other dishes are not so clear- cut in their allegiances to either the ancient or modern style. The immaculately fresh saueed scallops of Norwegian salmon were our choice of a classical entree, but the touch of spinach in beurre blanc seemed at least as daring as the mound of eggplant topping the lamb cutlets on the nouvelle side of the menu. The Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Very expensive- -W.L.T.

D Revisits St. Martin’s. The closing of so many of our other French restaurants in recent months prompted us to give St. Martin’s a closer look. It was billed as a wine bar when it opened a decade ago. and the printed menu is still fairly limited in the choices it presents. But the nightly blackboard offerings consistently promise a wide array of fish, fowl, and red meats, plus specials like flavorful snap per bisque and tri-color tortellini with vodka. The sauteed salmon with fresh dill proved outstanding, perfectly browned on the edges and juicy within, with large sprays of the refreshing herb. Roast quail veronique (with green grapes) and crisp roast duck with a light, salty raspberry sauce also rewarded exploration. Among the desserts, the light-colored chocolate mousse topped with a puddle of lightly whipped cream outdid the chocolate satin pie and creme caramel. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.

HOME COOKING

D Revisits Celebration. When it opened. Celebration was a semi-revolutionary notion: a no-frills, wholesome eating house run by idealistic young people serving copious quantities of home-style, simple food. Seventeen years later it’s no longer even a semi-radical idea for a restaurant, but it is still a good one. With your choice of entree-chicken, pot roast, meat loaf, etc.-you are served a crisp, cold salad of mixed greens and the day’s vegetables-all served family-style. with the bowls refilled upon request. A basket of breads-yeast rolls, jalapeno cornbread squares, and blueberry muffins-comes with the meal; dessert is extra. Allspice-spiked apple cobbler with a melting scoop of Haagen-Dazs was the best choice; banana and chocolate cream pies were just okay. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Inexpensive to moderate. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Highland Park Cafeteria. This usual ly shining example of cafeteria cuisine (a sub-species of Southern cooking) seemed to have lost some of its luster on our last visit. HPC is a textbook for students of Dixie din ing; their specialties, such as Jell-O salad, baked squash, fried steak, fried chicken, fried fish, and fried okra, are as good as this kind of eating gets; I count on “The Cafeteria” to convert Yankee friends to the glory of overcooked vege tables So it was disappointing to find my food a little flat- underseasoned-downright bland, but 1 can’t help feeling it was just an off day. You have to have faith in something. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.

D Revisits The Mecca. “I just wish my arms were longer so I could carry more.” was our waitress’s comment as she unloaded plates of pillowy biscuits, crisp bacon, fluffy pancakes, and fried eggs onto our table and hustled back to the kitchen for coffee refills and some huge, sugary cin namon rolls we hadn’t been able to resist (having eyed them on a neighboring table). The Mecca is a morning-time in stitution, and it is packed early on weekdays, with a line out the door. Fortunately, there are lots of tables for such a lit tle place. And all the waitresses are speedy stingers, so, though the line is long, it keeps moving. Unquestionably a rousing way to start the day. the Mecca is not a bad booster at lunch, either, when the waitresses’ arms ache from hefty platters of chicken-fried steak. 10422 Harry Hines Blvd. 352-0051. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Tolbert’s. The chili here is still as good as you’ll find in Dallas, but this is hardly a one-dish restaurant. The bowl of red gets star status, but the menu advertises “native Texas foods,” and lately, there have been some additions that sound downright Californian in concept. We green stuff for the tourists. We did try (in addition to traditional Donkey Tails, weenies stuffed with cheese, rolled in flour tortillas, and fried) a couple of new appetizers: good, slightly greasy tamales and tiny tacos. properly fried after filling. That didn’t leave a lot of room for a chili-cheeseburger and onion rings, or chicken-fried steak with bacon-grease gravy, but (his is my job, so I did my best. 1800 N. Market St. 969-0310. Inexpensive to moderate. –M.B.M.

ITALIAN

D Revisits Lomhardi’s Expresso. This sleek little Lombardi’s outpost combines two great ideas: by day, you are served in a jiffy from a cafeteria line of pastas, cold and hot; at night, it’s a chic and easy cafe offering mix-and-match pastas, daily specials, and pizza. We went for dinner recent ly; the place was filled with regulars, and no wonder. I wish Expresso were in my neighborhood. We started with salads, a creamy Caesar and tomato and mozzarella with basil. Far- jnlle (butterfly-shaped noodles) with pesto sauce from the mix-and-match menu followed; the pasta was firm and the pesto pungent with anchovies and basil, though overly enriched with cream, making the dish too cloying to finish. Toasted pine nuts added texture. A special pasta dish of shrimp, scallops, and tomatoes over angel hair was better, the fine strands perfectly cooked and not overwhelmed by their topping, as they so often are. 6135 Luther Lane. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.B.M.

D Revisits Mike’s Spaghetti Inn. Mike’s is a re vived institution and I was glad to welcome it back, being one of its pre-reincarnation fans. This has never pretended to be more than an old-fashioned spaghetti and meat sauce place, serving the kind of American Italian food Italy’s never known. But if you’re going to be basic, you have to be con sistent, and Mike’s on our last visit had slipped a little. Our salads were doused with an acid vinaigrette, the bread tasted of the freezer, and the spaghetti was overcooked to the point of mush. On the up side, the thin crusted pizza, loaded with cheese and sausage, was great, and the fat roll of manicotti was simply satisfying. And. of course, we were not wailed on, we were token care of. 6465 E Mockingbird. 827-7035. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Massimo da Milano. Ever-chic. Massimo’s has rated high marks for freshness of food and style ever since it opened. I still lave quibbles with the con fusing cafeteria line where you have to choose between a hot or cold entree before you really know what’s available. But most of Massimo’s clientele seemed unfezed. only faltering when they reached the end of the serving line with a loaded tray and nowhere to sit. At peak hours, the line moves fester than the tables turn. We enjoyed again our favorite pizza Albini. a crisp, yeasty crust topped with artichoke hearts, anchovies, fresh tomato slices, cheese, and tons of oregano. Pasta salads seem tired elsewhere; at Massimo’s they’re always a good idea. Al dente rigatoni tossed with moz- zarella. tomatoes, olive oil, and fruity wine vinegar was delicious: a single tube of cannelloni, stuffed with fresh ricotta and bathed in tangy tomato sauce, made us wish we’d ordered two. There are luscious mousses and cakes by the slice, but my favorite sweet from Massimo’s is still the chocolate-hazelnut kiss cookies. Take home a bag full. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426 Inexpensive. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Rodolfo’s. Rodolfo’s is worth a trip for anyone who loves Italian food but can’t tolerate fat or calories. The ’”Ital-lite” (their trademarked name) menu here offers a choice of guilt-free Italian dishes, made without butter, cream, or salt, designed to meet American Heart Association dietary guidelines. Herbs, broth. wine, and imagination are used instead. A born risk-taker, I’m never watching calories, cholesterol, or sodium, so the idea of “Ital-lite” left me a little cold. However, in the spirit of exploration, I ordered almost an entire “lice” meal. The mix-and-match menu is a little confusing; the idea is to pick a pasta and choose a sauce, or top a selection of chicken, fish, veal, or shrimp with your choice from another list of sauces. 1 chose instead a simpler sampler plate of three vegetarian dishes. Vegetarian lasagna melded squares of firm pasta with slices of mushrooms, carrots, cheese, and pepper; spinach ricotta dumplings the size of ping-pong balls were bathed in a tart marinara. and eggplant parmigiana was covered in tangy cheese. The whole extravagant-tasting plateful cost only 300 calories, but the banana-fudge cake I ordered later probably tripled that. 5956 Royal Lane. 368-5039. Moderate- -M.B.M.

D Revisits Trattoria Lombardi. Alberto Lombard] founded a dynasty of Italian restaurants (hat changed the way Dallasites think about Italian food. The trattoria on Hall Street is the oldest in his group, and for a white, it seemed to be showing its age. Neither food nor service met the standard of 311 or Lombardi’s at Travis Walk. But our last visit reversed that opinion; the quality of the food and serv ice matched that of the sister restaurants, and the setting, in my opinion, is better The interior is mellower and slightly more sedate (though not stuffy) than that of the younger sib lings: the large space is divided by the entry, a half-wall, and some steps into more intimate areas that subdue the genteel hubbub you expect at Lombardi’s. From crisp, hot bread to chocolate souffle, the food was excellent. 2916 N. Hall. 954-0803. Moderate. -M.B.M.

JAPANESE

D Revisits Shinano Japanese Restaurant.This unassuming but attractive little inn mostly features the Japanese foods Americans have taken to their hearts. Prob ably the biggest innovation is the list of sushi rolls available. We sampled the hot tuna roll and (bund it delicious. (No. the fish is still raw, not cooked-the “heat” comes from a strong dose of hot sauce sprinkled on the strips of bright red tuna meat before it is rolled up with vinegared rice in its seaweed wrapping.) Shinano also serves (he best tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) around, as well as light, crunchy tempura chat in cludes interesting vegetables like thinly sliced acorn squash along with the shrimp or other seafood. Platters of beef or salmon teriyaki come adorned with tangles of lightly bat tered fried onions and steamed broccoli or other vegetables. 8830 Spring Valley: 644-1436 Moderate. -W.L.T.

D Revisits Sushi on McKtnney. This is definitely a fun place to go to, and if all the food tasted as great as it looks, it would be a fun place to eat. too. As it is. you take a chance. On our last visit, the sushi itself was probably the best thing we ate. besides the complimentary soy-marinated bean sprouts. Gyoza. sort of a Japanese version of a potstick- er. were good, too, but chicken kara-age. beautifully pre sented on a lacquer tray holding a basket, was Tried until it was dry, and the chicken yakitori, skewered chunks with onion, were coated in a cornstarchy sauce. Mahi-mahi was pan-seared in butter, and the promised seasoning of wasabi and dill was difficult to detect, but the plate, with triangles of tofu, a round cake of fried potato, and chewy soba noodles, was a work of art itself. 4502 McKinney. 521-0969. Moderate. -M.B.M.

MEXICAN

D Revisits El Asadero. When this establishment moved from East Dallas to Lowest Greenville awhile back. it dropped part of its former name (which was Asadero Monterey) and could no longer offer its former specialty, charbroiled cabrito. because fire regulations forbade the right kind of indoor barbecue pit. The grilled items, like the carne asada. might have suffered in the transition, though this is still a very authentic version, made with a less lux urious cut of meal than gringos naneamericanos are used to. But in compensation. El Asadero offers some of the most outstanding Tex-Mex specialties in town. Flautas stuffed with shredded beef make a fine appetizer, while the soft tacos are formed from very fresh, homemade com tortillas, and that makes all the difference in the world-simplicity made stellar by a little TLC. The tamales are also homemade and splendidly plump and flavorful. 1516 Greenville Ave. 826-0625. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.

D Revisits La Calle Doce. The crowds in this charming little convened house in Oak Cliff cross all the lines of ethnicity and age. They come to enjoy excellent Tex-Mex. with an emphasis on seafood. The appetizers, for instance, include a Mexican-s]tyle shrimp cocktail, with a sweetish sauce with a hint of something alcoholic. Our other seafood choices included one relative disappointment, the chile relleno de mariscos (a spicy poblano stuffed with shrimp, scallops, octopus, and fish, but not battered and deep-fried) and one splendid creation-the catfish a la parilla. a boneless fillet marinated in herbs and grilled to a succulent juiciness. More usual Tex Mex dishes like beef fajitas asadas and cheese enchiladas are good. but the novel version of enchiladas verdes exceeds expectations-(he sour cream is mixed into the green sauce, creating a mild but not bland unity. 415 W. 12th. 941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.

D Revisits Mario and Alberto’s. This is the place I take out-of-towners to show them how well Dallas can eat on an ordinary (as opposed to a dress-up-and-blow-out-the-credit-card) evening out. American cities outside the Southwest {and many in the Southwest) can’t compete with Mario Leal’s establishments in the regular Tex-Mex sweepstakes. so an appetizer special like the Botano “Pipn” (small flautas filled with a whole shrimp, its tail sticking out) and combination plates like the Sandra and the Gloria (with such things as perfectly creamy cheese enchiladas and definitive refried beans) will be pretty impressive to start out with. Then there are the specialties like the filete de la casa (beef tenderloin split and cooked with lots of garlic) and the shrimp al ajillo (big shrimp, also with garlic) that will knock a visitor’s socks off. 425 Preston Valley Shopping Center 980-7296. Moderate. -W.L.T.

D Revisits Uncle Julio’s. What I meant to do was check out the original Lemmon Avenue location, but my companion, it seemed, is partial to the Greenville Uncle Julio’s. As far as I’m concerned, if it’s Thursday night. and cabrito’s on the menu, all UJs look alike to me. Alike and desirable-the lender joints of baby goat, slow-roasted to crisp-skinned juiciness in the Mexican manner, are hard to find, and Uncle Julio’s is one of the few places that does it right. Go with someone you’re fond of, try a couple of starters (the ceviche was fresh, lime-tart, and cool, tilled with shrimp, scallops, and haddock bits: tortilla soup was fresh, hearty, and hot. its tortilla bits crisp), and share one cabrito order-what you’ll get is a vast platter heaped with half the little creature, chopped into pick-uppable pieces and done to a turn, some of the best eating north of the border. Requisite accompaniments-refried beans, Mexican rice, all the fiery salsa and chips you can eat-are well prepared here, too. and the service on our visit was fleet and friendly. 7557 Greenville Ave 987-9900. Moderate -B.C.

D Revisits Matt’s Rancho Martinez. Matt’s has moved from its tiny quarters on Ferguson to a larger space in the Lakewood business area, but there are still crowds lining up outside to get the great Tex-Mex at peak limes. The savvy kitchen here shows that it knows the real secret of success; the best thing about the old-fashioned tortilla-based dishes is the quality of the shells. FIautas and tacos crumble in the hand and mouth in a way that proves they have been fried up fresh right before serving. The superb chile relleno (stuffed with beef and sprinkled with raisins and pecans) will spoil you from ordering the dish just about anyplace else in Dallas. With the move. Rancho Martinez has added some new wrinkles such as “light” chicken fajitas (served with grilled vegetables) and a number of grilled seafood items. With some trepidation we ordered a sampler planer that in- eluded shrimp, frag legs, and a fish fillet. Our only hesita tion was the frog legs-we hadn’t had much luck with this dish in Mexican restaurants in this country. But here they are wonderful-smoky and tender. 6312 La Vista- 823-5517 Inexpensive. -W.L.T.

D Revisits El Ranchito. You can tell a real Mexican restaurant by the presence on the menu of earthy ethnic favorites like menudo (the tripe soup beloved as a hangover remedy). Such places exist all over Dallas, but most of them tend to draw a Hispanic clientele only. An establishment that specializes in such authentic delicacies, makes both Spanish- speaking and English-speaking patrons equally welcome, and-most important of all-really knows how to cook is a discovery. The menu here divides the dishes into Tex-Mex, Mexican, and “other side” categories, and all the items we (Tied in each were terrific. Superb cabrito alla parilla (roasted baby goat) was served on its own little grill, with a sauce on the side made with blackened chilies and tomatoes. A Mexican stew called guiso norteno boasted a rich sauce and a light cheese garnish. Those with a taste for innards will die for the mollejas here-small pieces of sweetbreads, crispy on the outside and meltingly smooth within, served fajita style with peppers and onions. The cheesy enchiladas Mexicanas and the freshly made tamales are fine choices for those who are not quite so adventurous. 610 W. Jefferson. 946-4238. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.

NATURAL

D Revisits Dream Cafe. Breakfast at the Dream Cafe has become a Dallas habit: a table on the patio by the fountain, overlooking the inexplicable expanse of lawn between you and the Quadrangle parking lot, is an atypically serene setting for a morning meal-a power-free breakfast. Unfortunately, our bliss was blasted by a waitstaff that seemed still to be in dreamland. We had to ask for silverware, water, cream for our coffee, honey for our oatmeal, and the check, Our irritation was only partly soothed by the food: a goldenbaked pancake, puffy and full of green-skinned apple wedges; thick slices of nutty, cake-textured whole-wheat toast; thick oatmeal topped with a scoop of fresh fruit: and migas. Mexican-spiced eggs scrambled with tortilla strips and sided with beans. 2800 Rouih St. in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive to moderate. -M.B.M.

NEW AMERICAN

D Revisits Landmark Cafe. The white, pillared room with its big paned windows is one of the most gracious dining rooms in Dallas, with a gentle Southern charm that is almost antique. This was a getting-to-know-you dinner, so we took a long time ordering; the menu is so lung and wordy, it would have taken a long time to comprehend, in any case. The descriptions of the dishes are verbose-beyond the point of necessary or enticing information-and repetitive. Some one’s try ing just a little too hard. And the kitchen had the same problem. Our dinner could best be explained by one dish: an appetizer of one enormous blue prawn, dramatically complete with head and feelers, on a sauce of roasted red peppers, with fried saffron fettuccine and a tiny spinach tim- bale. All the elements were stunning, but they were disparate on the plate-none of them seemed to really go together. We ordered plates of food, but what stands out are single elements-an enormous crumbed and deep-fried soft-shell crab, a perfect piece of planked salmon, just rare, and a beautiful piece of beef, charred loo dark on the outside, but American-beauty red within. 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Quadrangle Grille. One of the questions most frequently asked of a restaurant reviewer is “Where do you like to eat when you”re not working?” In other words, when you’re spending your own money. Right now, the Quadrangle Grille is among my answers. The light. airy interior is cheerful but relaxing, the patio provides fun people-watching with no street noise or car fumes, and the menu is imaginative enough to be interesting without being scary. There are lots of appealing offerings on our last visit, both on the menu and on the blackboard; we started with a “focaccia pizza,” a thin crisp disk of the bread topped with shrimp, pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, and sparked by the pretty brilliant addition of tart tomatillo slices. A salad of mozzarella and tomatoes was outstanding for the perfection of the red (not pink) tomato slices: tender pork medallions were sweetened with an apricot glaze. What is called here a chocolate “torte” is one of the best chocolate concoctions in town-actually a kind of fallen, bittersweet. creamy souffle. 2800 Routh St. in the Quadrangle. 979-9022. Moderate. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. Discreet from the street, spiffily restored and maintained, with pot ted trees marking its narrow sidewalk frontage, this pretty place boasts one of this city’s most overlooked dining treas ures. “Bar and Grill” is a too-plebeian term to convey the intimate comfort of the split-level restaurant and lounge, and its food and service rank right up there with some of the most trafficked local dining favorites. A jerk chicken quesadilla was a marvelous construction of crisped flour tortillas, filled with goat cheese and three kinds of diced peppers, sided with ripe tomato slices and scalIion-strewn sour cream. Caesar salad was splendid, perfect ingredients lovingly mixed at tableside in absolutely classic style. Scallopini of veal covered half the plate with fork-tender slices sauced with mango beurre blanc and complemented with earthy wild rice and sauteed vegetables. A day’s- special mixed grill combined generous cuts of venison in a thyme-touched juniper cranberry sauce, smoky chicken breast with tomatillo-poblano sauce, and tuna fresh enough to stand without adornment. 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive. -B.C.

D Revisits Chaplin’s. You might call the words relaxing excitement an oxymoron, and there was a time when 1 would have agreed with you. But (hat was before I had dined at Chaplin’s, which is an adventure in exactly that. Tucked quietly among more Bohemian neighbors on Lower Greenville, the place itself speaks comfortably of civility rather than show. Service is seamless. The menu is succinct, barely hinting at the fresh joy that distinguishes even its most prosaic-sounding listings. As simple a soup as corn crab chowder, for instance, was memorable on our recent visit, the meld of potato-studded flavors and textures delicately seasoned. A seafood tamale held shrimp and crab meat in a rich sauce infused with smoky cascabel pepper essence under diced tomato and onion. Caesar salad was zesty and fine: chilled asparagus was crunchy-tender, its lemon may onnaise dressing a sunny complement. My companion’s entree of pecan-breaded trout, the day’s special, was a whole fish, butterflied and boned, moist and meaty in its airy-crisp breading, with peerless cilantro-spiked tartar sauce. Im pressive as it was. it was almost outshone by my own. a suc culent chicken breast butterflied and stuffed with spinach. sun-dried tomatoes, and a glory of goat cheese. Steamed rice served with both was fairly no-hum, but sauteed carrots and cabbage were splendid. So were desserts-I’m weary of cheesecake, but the Italian version here, involving Stilton and cream cheese, was a haunting triumph with the mini- glass of good port that accompanied it, and a house-made white chocolate ice cream, anointed with Chambord and strawberries, rose miles above its genre. As does, apparent ly, just about everything that comes out of owner chef Jack Chaplin’s kitchen. He and Marna, his wife, recently celebrated their restaurant’s first birthday; Dallas diners have good reason to wish them many more. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive. -B.C.

SEAFOOD

D Revisits Aw Shucks. This is everybody’s favorite oyster bar, and why not? The food is fresh, the service is last, and the price is right. The menu is basic shellfish and cat fish, basically boiled or fried. Big butterflied shrimp, plump oysters, and juicy catfish fillets were all coated in the same crunchy cornmeal batter, just thick enough to protect the fish. Our current faves are the long catfish fillets; crabcakes are huge patties of crumbs, onions, and crab that are a little daunting Everything comes with thick fingers of fried potatoes. Bet you can’t eat more than a dozen. 3601 Green- xitteAxv. 821-9449. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.

STEAKS

D RevisitsDel Frisco’s Steak House. The new Addison Del Frisco’s is the latest mecca for meal-worshipers. More spacious than his original digs at the Double Eagle on Lemmon Avenue. Dels Addison spinoff enlarges on the forest green/brass/etched glass statement to fine, clubby effect. And then there’s the food. A full-pound ribeye was prime indeed, seared and seasoned without. blood-rare within as ordered. Veal Delmonico. a thick, boneless chop, was pure bliss, almost fork-lender and baby- textured. Del Frisco’s gives lobster equal billing with steaks under its name, so we ordered one-a 16-ouncc tail that was lovely. deftly de-shelled and halved at the table, but king’s-ransom expensive: for $36.95 “market” price. I expeel to get the whole creature, legs, claws, tomalley. and all, for a cracking adventure. Side dishes, nonethe less, were superior-a perfect baked potato, properly massaged and simply buttered (a rarity, believe me); fresh green beans, sauteed crisp; broccoli at gratin, not crisp, but steamed tender, as it should be. and sumptuously cheese-sauced. 5330 Bell Line. Addison. 788-0881. Very expensive. -B.C.

TAKEOUT/DILI

D Revisits Bagelstein’s. One of the best things about Bagelstein’s is its encyclopedic inclusiveness: if it’s deli food, they’ve got it. The overstuffed sandwiches feature a definitive grilled Reuben, for instance, and the plain New York-style cheesecake, baked daily in house, is the real thing. Fat knockwurst sausages, slashed with an intricate design for cooking, have a surprisingly subtle flavor. Lovers of smoked fish will find sushi-like sable and whitefish salad in addition to Iox. And. of course, the bagels run the gamut from garlic and poppyseed to egg. There are also dinnertime platters of such things as boiled brisket, served rather dry in a large portion, accompanied by mashed potatoes and a sweet carrot casserole. The efficiency of the service here has never matched the food-perhaps (he sheer size of the multi- leveled dining room makes things hard for the waitresses. Northwood Hills Shopping Center. 8104 Spring Wiley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.LT.

D Revisits Deli-News. The Russian emigres who run Deli-News demonstrate that they have profited well from the opportunities that the free market provides. The fresh homemade pickles and superb homemade breads that come to the table at the beginning of a meal here announce that something special is afoot. The menu ranges widely, from softball-sized sandwiches of every imaginable description to burgers and omelettes. But these choices are only the beginning, because there is a daily list of specials on a small blackboard in the cheerily curtained little dining room. We sampled Chicken in the Pot-the Mercedes Benz of chicken soups, with chicken quarters, noodles, a lender matzoh ball, crispy fresh green beans, and adorable little baby carrots in a delicate broth. The stuffed cabbage, chock full of well-seasoned beef and rice, could hardly be bettered. The only disappointment here is that the des serts-both those made on the premises like the poppyseed cakes and those flown in from New York like the chocolate chocolate chocolate cake and the apple crumb-are not as tasty as they look 15775 Hillcrest Rd., # 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.

THAI

D Revisits That Cuisine. When it first opened, Thai Cuisine was one of a surprising number of vegetarian-seafood Thai restaurants around; now a number of chicken and beef dishes have been added to the tofu and seafood specialties. Siamese favorites such as Tom-kha soup (strongly flavored with all sorts of Asian herbs and spices) and Pad Thai (noodles stir-fried with egg, ground peanuts, and shrimp) are done with special authority. Curries like beef panang and green curry eggplant contain all sorts of crisp fresh vegetables, such as green beans and cauliflower. We only wish the egg rolls here were Thai spring rolls instead of the ordinary Chinese type. 1915 Central Ex-pressvay (off Park), Piano. 422-5219. Moderate. -W.L.T

D Revisits Thai Soon. The vegetarian bent of this spot on a busy block of Lowest Greenville, along with a proclivity for revving up the spiciness of the Thai dishes, bring in a wide assortment of diners-everything from delicate types who would have been labeled flower children buck in [he Sixties ut macho guys who undoubtedly compete in the four-alarm chili cookoffs at Terlingua. The coconut shrimp soup is a suitably fiery lead-in to a meal here. Probably the best dish is listed as “Special from the House”’: fillets of catfish crisply fried and topped with a tingly red curry sauce. Eggplant curry, with small rectangles of fried tofu in a rich green sauce, makes a good balance in flavor- again, if you can stand the heat. And if you are ordering dishes that bite the tongue, why not go all the way and order the spicy shrimp noodles, too? They are the wide, softi variety of Oriental noodles, and they prove emphat ically-as does everything at Thai Soon-that it is not only wimps who don’t eat meal and poultry. In fact. the spiciness of a meal at Thai Soon positively requires-and rewards-a firefighter’s courage. 20IS Greenville. 821-7666 Moderate. -W.L.T.

FORT WORTH

D Revisits Saint Emilion. Since it opened, this has been my favorite Fort Worth restaurant. A recent visit didn’t quite live up to my most glowing memories, but was satisfying nonetheless. Among the appetizers, the duck pate with walnut and lardons proved both subtle and hardy, but the other appetizer we sampled, flan de volatile de Nantua. nonplussed us a bit. We expected something rather light, but the texture was that of a substantial chicken loaf, with a flavor subtle to the vanishing point. The signature salads with walnuts and bacon, on the other hand, were magnificently robust. The skin of the gorgeous-looking roast duck crackled in the mouth (this meant that the flesh was well-done, not pink) and balanced perfectly with a sauce surprisingly combining green peppercorns and fresh peaches. Grilled tuna, which the menu boasted was so fresh as to be “sushi quality,” was cut too thin for our taste, but the accompanying Bearnaise masked any dryness. Desserts were better than ever-a superb upsidedown apple cake and a classic French tart with blueberries and straw berries over pastry cream. The menu at Saint Emilion is now fixed price, but with modular choices. One tariff gets you entree and salad, but you pay additional charges if you want an appetizer or dessert. 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Expensive. -W.L.T.

RESTAURANTS

D RECOMMENDS

AFGHAN

Safi’s Afghan Cuisine. 14849 Inwood, Addison. 991-9292. Moderate.

BARBECUE

Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines Blvd. (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.

Austin’s Barbecue, 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.

Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.

Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams). 823-5524. Inexpensive.

Bobo’s. 2014 Greenville Ave. 824-3165. Inexpensive.

Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston. Plano. 596-0903. Inexpensive to moderate.

Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062. Inexpensive.

Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton. 939-9419. Inexpensive.

Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive

Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.

Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Inexpensive.

TNT Bar-B-Que. 2739 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-6666.

Inexpensive.

BRITISH

Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive.

Messina’s Restaurant and Culinary Centre. 3521 Oak Grove at Lemmon Ave. 528-4709. Moderate to expensive.

Lancashire Room. 127 E. Main St.. Lancaster. 218-9215. Inexpensive to moderate.

BURGERS

Ball’s Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. Inexpensive.

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive.

Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.

Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W. North-vresl Hwy., Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive.

Club Schmitz. 9661 Denton Dr. 902-7990. Inexpensive. 8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.

Sneakers Grille and Bar. 9247 Skillman 343-1125. Inexpensive to moderate.

Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway. Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.

Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.

CAJUN

Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive.

Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive.

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Rd., Plano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.

Nate’s Seafood and Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Rd., Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.

CHINESE

August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy, Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.

Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs in The Crescent. Suite I48. 871-6868. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood. Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok.4010 W. I5lh. Suite 80, Plano. 964-0406 Inexpensive.

Canton. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.

Chef Wang. 9330 N. Central Expwy., United Artists Plaza. 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.

Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway (off Belt Line be-iween Addison and Midway Rds.), Addison. 387-1776,Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

First Chinese B-B-Q. Ill S.Greenville Ave., Richard-son. 680-8216. Inexpensive.

Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk, Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Bell Line. Suite 200. Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.

Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 1152 N. Buckner, Suite 128. Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Rd. at Buckner. 321-7599. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tarty China. 3514-A W. Walnut. Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.

Taton. 9243 Skillman, Suite 104. 343-0545. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tong’s. 11661 Preston, Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center. Richardson 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tal’s. 13350 Dallas Parkway in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.

ETHIOPIAN

River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.

FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.

Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate.

Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane. Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.

Ewald’s. Stonelcigh Hotel. 2927 Maple Ave. at Wolf 871-2523. Expensive.

The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.

La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-6960. .1906 Lemmon. 521-0182. NorthPark Mall. 696-2398. Inexpensive.

L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.

Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.

The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

Watel’s, 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.

York St. 6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968. Moderate to expensive.

GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN

Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort, Suite ISO. 239-8060. Moderate.

Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.

Bohemia. 2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.

The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.

Franki’s Li’I Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Rd. at Buckner. 320-0426. 2515 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hofstetter’s. Pluza at Bachman Creek. 3830 W. North-wesi Hwy., Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. 3121 Ross Ave. 821-3121. Inexpensive.

GREEK

Athens Cafe. 5290 Belt Line, Suite 118, Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.

Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd., Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.

Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Moderate.

Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. Inexpensive.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.

HOME COOKING

Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate

The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W Parker Rd.. Suite 527. Piano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.

Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House. 1222 Commerce at Field. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.

Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenv,lle Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knot. 521-2126. Inexpensive.

Mama’s Daughters Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.

Rosemarie’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.

Theo’s Diner. Ill S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976. Inexpensive.

INDIAN

Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center, Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line, Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 960-0070. Moderate.

India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston Rd. 392-0190 Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Mumtaz. The Atrium. 3101 N. Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave. Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.

Shallmar. 35 Richardson Heights Shopping Center, Central at Belt Line. Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.

Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.

ITALIAN

Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.

Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to ex-pensive

Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.

Avanti. 2720 McKinney Ave. 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).

Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate

Caffo Paparazzi. 8989 Purest Ln., Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.

Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti. 9526 Webb Chapel. 350-7456. Moderate.

Fausto’s. 300 Reunion Blvd. in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 65-1234. Moderate.

Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.

II Sorrento. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.

Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Tosca.7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.

MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Ln, Suite A2. 234-6800. 2704 Elm St. 748-4222. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 37. Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.

MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.

Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.

Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.

Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Shopping Village. 522-7878. Incxpensive.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-3606. Moderate.

Spaghetti lnn-Mike’s ltalian Reataurant. 6465 E. Mockingbird. Suite. 391, 827-7035. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.

JAPANESE

Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.

Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W. North-west Hwy.. Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.

Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 600. 934-8150. Moderate to expensive.

Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village. Suite 360. 3309 N. Central Expwy.. Plano. 881-0328. Moderate.

Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 101. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.

Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs- 351-2281. 3455 N. Belt Line, Irving. 594-6911. Moderate.

KOREAN

Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood Rd., 351-6922. Moderate.

Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut, Suite 200. 272-9909. Inexpensive.

Korea House. 2598 Royal Ln. at Harry Hines. 243- 0434. Inexpensive.

Koreana. Highpoint Village. 12101 Greenville Ave., #107. 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Korean Rib. 3205 Alma Drive. Suite 401. Plano. 423-8676.

MEDITERRANEAN

Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy.. in the Grand Kempin-ski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.

MEXICAN

Anita’s Mexican Cantina. 7324 Gaston. #319. 328-9639. Inexpensive.

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate

Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line. Addison. 458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.

Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.

Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Village (lnwood at Lovers Ln). 350-5227. Moderate.

Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. and University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.

Emmilla’s. 2001 Greenville Ave. 824-4562. Inexpensive to moderate.

Flamingo Joe’s. 2712 Main at Crowdus. 748-6065 Inexpensive to moderate.

Garmo’s y Lito’s. 2847 N Henderson. 821-8006. Inexpensive to moderate.

Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams, 690-0622. Inexpensive.

Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.

Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.

J. Pape’s Restaurant and Cantina. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 115, in the Quadrangle. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Botica Cafe. 1900 N. Haskell 824-2005. Inexpensive to moderate.

Las Cazuelas. 3943 Columbia Ave. 827-1889. Inexpensive.

La Suprama Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy (at Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.

Loma Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. 8201 Preston Rd., Suite 100 (at Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 318 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721. 221 W. Parker. Suite 400 in Rosa Village. Plano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston (Preston Park Village). Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line, Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mill’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.

On The Border Cafe. 3300 Knox. 528-5900. Moderate.

Pappasito’s Cantina. 723 S. Central Expwy., Richard son. 480-8595. Moderate.

Prime’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.

Ricardo’s. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Moderate.

ZuZu. 6423 Hilcrest. 521-4456. 2900 McKinney Ave. 880-0140. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. Inexpensive.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. Promenade Center, 15400 Coit. Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.

NATURAL

Bluebonnet Cafe & Dell. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.

Phil’s Cafe. 2815 Elm. 761-8400. Inexpensive.

NEW AMERICAN

Actuelle. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125. 855-0440. Expensive.

Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Expensive.

The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to

expensive.

By George! 2900 Greenville Ave.821-1538. Moderate.

Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.

Deep Ellum Cafe. 2704 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington’s. Westin Hotel. Galleria. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.

Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Ln. (between the Tollway and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.

Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.

Laureis. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit Drive, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.

Malibu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate.

Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.

The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. oderate to expensive.

Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Expensive.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.

Spatz. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-7984 Moderate.

Zeke’s Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive

SEAFOOD

Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Montfort. Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Bay Street. 5348 Belt Line. Addison. 934-8501. Moderate.

Cafe America. 4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441. Expensive.

Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. Expensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy. at Chisholm. Suite 600, Plano. 423-3699. Moderate.

Hampton’s. Berkshire and N.W. Highway. Preston Center. 8411 Preston 739-3474. Moderate.

Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910. Inexpensive.

Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.

Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line- 386-0122 or 387-4231. Inexpensive to moderate.

Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave. 363-3896. Moderate.

Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy., Addison. 980-8950. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.

Scott’s-A Seafood House, 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.

Sea Shells & Stuff. 9205 Skillman. 348-3082. Moderate.

SOUTHWESTERN

Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.

Blue Mesa Grill. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. in Sakowtz Village. Suite 500. Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.

Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate.

Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.

SPANISH

Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis St. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.

STEAKS

Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre. Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

Brenner’s. 2200 Cedar Springs. Suite 165, in The Cres-ceni. 953-1600. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.

Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of I-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.

The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.

TAKEOUT/DILI

Al’s New York Style Dell. 3301 Oak Lawn (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.

Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St. 761-9135 Inexpensive.

Basel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd. 980-1444. Inexpensive.

City Market. 2001 Ross. Trammel] Crow Center. Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.

Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gaston Ave. 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn 526-4070. Moderate.

Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm St., Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.

Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inexpensive to moderate.

Polio Bueno. 3438 SamueIl Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.

Today’a Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln. 373-0325. Inexpensive.

Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 158. at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.

THAI

Bangkok Cafe. 2112 E. Arapaho at Jupiter. 644-9405. Inexpensive.

New Siam. 2415 Willowbrook. Suite I0S (at Northwest Hwy and Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-36.17. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.

Thai Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.

Thai Taste. 4501 Cole Ave. 521-3513. Inexpensive to moderate.

Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.

VIETNAMESE

Arc-en-Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut Rd., Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ba-Le. 4812 Bryan. 821-1880. Inexpensive.

East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Moderate.

Mai’s. 4812 Bryan. 826-9887. Inexpensive.

Mekong. 4301 Bryan 824-6200. Inexpensive.

My Tho. 4413 W. Walnut. Suite 315. Garland. 494-3963. Inexpensive.

Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.

LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES

Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams. Arlington, Metro (8I7) 261-0488. Moderate to expensive.

Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two, 2221 E. Lamar, Suite 900. Arlington. Metro (817) 640-9981. Moderate.

China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur. Las Col-mas. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.

Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St., Grapevine. Metro (1817) 481-4668. Inexpensive.

Gaspars. (New American) 150 S. Demon Tap Rd., Cop-pell. 393-5152. Moderate.

Hana Sho. (Japanese) 2938 N. Belt Line. Irving. 258-0250. Moderate.

Moretti’s. (Italian) 2709 Mustang Drive. Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza, Arlington. (817) 261-6604. Moderate.

Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.

FORT WORTH

Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450 W. Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.

Kicald’s Grocery. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.

Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.

Jon’s Grille. 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.

Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.

Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.

Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817) 625-4413. Inexpensive.

Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel, 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.

Seterry’s. (French) 4930 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 763-8787. Expensive.

Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3500 W. Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.

Tuscany. (Italian) 4255 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-2971. Moderate to expensive.

NIGHTLIFE

Angry Dog. 2726 Commerce. 741-4406.

The Art Bar. 2803 Main St. 939-0077.

Arthur’s. Campbell Centre, 8350 N. Central Expwy. 361-8833.

Boiler Room, Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Market Place. 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.

Bolero. 4515 Travis. 521-6071.

Buyers Bar. Stouffer Hotel. 2222 Stemmons Frwy. 631-2222.

Club Clearview. 2806 Elm St. 939-0006.

Club Dada. 2720 Elm St. at Crowdus. 744-3232.

Dave & Buster’s. 10727 Composite. 353-0649. 8021 Walnut Hill. 361-5553.

Dave’s Art Pawn Shop. 2544 Elm. 748-7111

The Den. Stoneleigh Terrace Hold. 2927 Maple. 871-7111.

Dick’s Last Resort. Corner of Record and Ross. 747-0001.

8.0 Bar. 8200 Routh. in the Quadrangle. 979-0880

Encounters. Doubletree Hotel. 8250 N. Central Expwy. 69!-8700.

Exodus. 210 N. Crowdus. 748-7871.

B>Froggy Bottoms. Pan of Dal las Alley in the West End Marketplace, 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.

Greenville Bar & Grill. 2821 Greenville Ave. 823-6691

Harper’s. Hilton Inn. 5600 N. Central Expwy. 823-9180.

Igby’s. Loews Anatole Hotel. Stemmons at Wycliff. 747-8612.

Industry. 2920 Canton. 748-9300.

Institute. 2727 Canton. 747-8410.

Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 9810 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600. 750-5868. 4980 Belt Line at Quorum. Suite 250. Addison. 404-8503.

Joe Miller’s. 3531 McKinney Ave. 521-2261.

Knox Street Pub. 3230 Knox. 526-9476.

Levee at the Pontchartrain. 13444 N. Preston 385-1522.

The Library Bar. Omni Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151.

Louie’s. 1839 N. Henderson. 826-0505.

The Lounge. 5460 W. Lovers Ln. 350-7834.

Netwerk 403. 5500 Greenville Ave.. Suite 403. 361-9517

Memphis. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 500. 386-9934.

Metronome. 703 McKinney. 720-1300.

Milo Butterfinger’s. 5645 Yule. 368-9212.

Mimi’s.5lll Greenville Ave. 368-1994,

Mucky Duck. 3102 Welborn in the Centrum. 522-7200.

Poor David’s Pub. 1924 Greenville Ave. 821-9891.

The Rhythm Room. 5627 Dyer. 890-0944.

The Safari Bar. 10821 Composite Dr. 351-3262.

Stan’s Blue Note. 2908 Greenville Ave. 824-9653.

State. 3611 Parry. 821-9246.

Stoneleigh P. 2926 Maple. 871-2346.

Studebaker’s. NorthPark East. 8788 N. Central Expwy. 696-2475.

Take Five. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace, 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.

Trees. 2709 Elm. 748-5009.

2826. 2826 Elm St. 741-2826.

Video Bar. 2610 Elm St. 939-9113.

The Voodoo Bar. 302 N. Market. 655-2627.

White Rock Yacht Club. 7324 Gaston, Suite 301. 328-3866.

FORT WORTH NIGHTLIFE

Caravan of Dreams. 312 Houston. (817) 877-3000.

The Hop. 2905 W. Berry. (817) 923-7281.

J&J Blues Bar. 937 Woodward. (817) 870-BEER.

RJ’s Bar & Grill. 1216 N. Main. (817) 624-0175.

The White Elephant Saloon. 106 E. Exchange. (817) 624-8273.