EATING AROUND HEDARY’S: LUSCIOUS LEBANESE

Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant



Comes now count-your-blessings time for Dallas diners, with a cause for rejoicing that boils down to three little words: Hedary’s is here.

For the cognoscenti, no further explanation is needed. Those with a lust for Lebanese fare have long known that the nearest place to savor the cream of that cuisine was on the far side of Fort Worth-in Ridglea, to be exact, where the family-run first Hedary’s has made Middle-Eastern converts of all comers over the past decade or so.

Those who never made the pilgrimage westward can now share the delight of those who did, by driving no farther than the Promenade in Richardson. The new Hedary’s is harder to find-it’s tucked behind Wheels in Motion, a cycle emporium near the center’s northern end-but the hunt’s rewards are as generous as the original’s. The menu is identical, every dish is fresh and lovingly prepared, and if there’s better Lebanese food anywhere, I’ve yet to find it.

For starters, Hedary’s homemade bread and cheese alone are near-celestial-the bread, called khubz, is hot pita-like bubbles replenished throughout the meal; the yogurt cheese, labni, is creamy and subtly tart beneath a drizzle of olive oil. Other appetizers are as exemplary; the best way to sample them is to order maza, an array of nine or ten mini-servings ranging from hearty tabuli and delicate hummus, superior versions of the crushed wheat and chick-pea staples, to delectably dressed minted cucumber and yogurt, garlicky lettuce, and onion-spiked tomato.

Entrées lean toward beef and lamb; we particularly enjoyed kafta, sausage-like patties of fine ground sirloin and savory spices, charbroiled to succulence and folded into a bread loaf; and kibbi nayyi mhamasa, uncooked, seasoned ground lamb topped with a layer of the same meat sautéed in butter with pine nuts, tomato, and seasonings.

Oddly, though, the star of our visit was the menu’s least exotic-sounding dish: roast chicken, potatoes, and tomatoes basted with lemon and olive oil. Somehow, the meld of flavors combined in the baking worked an alchemy that made the dish greater than the sum of its parts.

Of the two desserts we tried, shabiet, pudding-stuffed leaves of filo pastry dewed with honey, was the more outstanding; baklava was adequate, but over-sweet in comparison. Best postlude of all was the Lebanese coffee, Qahwi, a potent brew served in miniature cups and sweetened to order-a Lebanese tradition, the menu explains, for happy gatherings.

Certainly ours was that. And would have been even in less comfortable surroundings than the peach-linened,plum-carpeted setting inwhich we celebrated Hedary’soverdue transversal of theTrinity. I’d still drive to FortWorth any day for a khubz andlabni fix, but it’s nice to knowit’s no longer necessary. Promenade Center, 15400 Coil,Suite 2500, Richardson.669-2112. Lunch Tue-Sat11:30-2:30; dinner Tue-Thur5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. All creditcards. Inexpensive to moderate. N -Betty Cook



Caffé Paparazzi



One of the great voids in Dallas dining has been an Italian bistro with a truly personal feel, both in the dining room and in the kitchen. With the advent of Caffé Paparazzi, in a new shopping center in northeast Dallas, that void is filled. This is the best little Italian restaurant in Dallas since Sergio’s (while it was still in its first location) nearly a decade ago. Owner-chef Donato Milano runs the kitchen, while his Oklahoma-bom wife keeps the customers out front happy. For once, all the food tastes as if it is being cooked by an individual rather than by a committee-the tastes are forthright and forceful but always thoughtfully executed.

The restaurant has the sleek, informal look that has made 20th-century Italian a design leader, but the food is the real attraction. There are only a few appetizers available, the best of which are the veal-stuffed mushrooms bathed in a rich, creamy sauce. The main dishes do not sound particularly inventive, but they are cooked with an authority that makes them seem like fresh inspirations. Veal scallops cooked with cheese, for instance, is a cliche that usually disappoints grandly; here, though, the veal valdostana is sheer poetry, flavored with a leaf of fresh sage. Chicken pizzaiola, too, is not a dish that usually excites, but at Caffé Paparazzi the roguish, garlicky taste makes it a memorable dish.

Of the pastas we tried, the penne all’ar-rabiata was the standout. The tubular noodles were cooked perfectly al dente, as requested, and the fresh-tasting tomato sauce had just a hint of the red pepper promised in the dish’s name (which means “rabid-style”). When we visited the restaurant, it had not begun to make its own fresh pasta, but plans were afoot to invest in a machine for it. Desserts at Caffé Paparazzi, like everything else here, looked as good as they tasted. We especially enjoyed the amaretto custard and the sliced oranges marinated in liqueur and orange zest.

Caffé Paparazzi is small, so the kitchencan be slow if the place is full-but that is theprice of personally supervised cooking. Andit’s already showing signs of developing afaithful clientele. The success is deserved,but it fills me with misgivings. The empta-tion to grow larger and to clone a successfulrestaurant is a powerful one, and it has infected all our fine Italian restaurants to date.You had better get to Caffé Paparazzi whileit remains small and personal and wonderful-you never know how long that blissfulstate will last. 8989 Forest Lane, Suite 112. ,644-1323. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards.Moderate. -W.L. Taitte

Riscky’s Barbeque



A funny thing almost happened on the West End’s way to almost becoming the rowdiest ongoing street picnic in Dallas: for a while there, somebody forgot to bring the barbeque. But not to fret-the omission’s been rectified, if not in quite as witty a way as we first were led to expect. Instead of the Paris, Texas, concept initially announced as a tongue-in-cheek transition from French (La Touraine) to folksy in the same location, new proprietor Jim Riscky elected to make his move with a whole-hog identity change.

Understandably: the success of Riscky’s several Fort Worth barbeque restaurants gave him little cause to subordinate his own name to someone else’s cuteness. And while his mainstay menu basics are hardly extraordinary enough to give Dallas competitors heartburn, a couple of his specialties do rate more than passing mention.

Riscky’s smoked catfish, in fact, is an out-and-out Texas triumph. Several Dallas restaurants-some quite stellar-have featured versions of this delicacy at various times; none I’ve tried has equaled the moist, subtly seasoned perfection achieved here. Our appetizer portions, a quartet of satiny fillet ribbons, were the stuff of which memories are made; if the whole-fish version offered as an entrée is as good, I see no reason to order anything else on the menu.

Not that there’s anything wrong with Riscky’s beef, pork, or chicken-all were top-quality meats, nicely spiked with the spice mix the menu calls “Riscky dust” before being slow-smoked in the traditional manner, but while the pork ribs were tender and juicy, beef ribs and brisket seemed rather dry, and half a chicken even more so-the result, we suspect, of reheating in Dallas after preparation in Fort Worth.

With one exception, side dishes were fairly standard treatments. Honest red beans, bland creamy cole slaw, skins-on French fries were all fresh; onion rings were crisp-battered and almost greaseless. Potato salad was a textureless disappointment. Maybe Riscky’s mama made it that way as the menu claims, with mashed rather than diced potatoes; mine, thank God, did not.

She would, however, have approved of the size of Riscky’s servings, which are enormous, and of the prices, which are not (stif-fest price on the menu is a combo platter at $11.95). And service is all young, pink-cheeked affability. 1701 N Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-midnight, Sun 5:30 pm-11 pm. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.



Tutti Pazzi



I had great hopes for this new restaurant, billed as “Neo-Italian,” because its owner, Bernard Tranche, also runs my favorite place to eat in Fort Worth, St. Emilion. This new venture, ensconced in the downtown site formerly occupied by Lombardi’s Fort Worth outpost (and by a French bistro before that), doesn’t quite come up to my expectations, but it is a fun and adventuresome place to eat.

Neither the appetizers we sampled (oysters baked with a pesto topping and a coarse rabbit pate with hazelnuts and dried figs) nor the salad (a version of Caesar and a house salad with greens, black olives, and marinated pinto beans) were impressive. The pastas and the small boutique pizzas proved more appealing. The fusilli dell’orto are corkscrew noodles tossed with grilled zucchini and eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, yellow peppers, and roasted garlic-fine if you like the pungency of the garlic. The pizza tutti pazzi befits the name (which means “everybody’s crazy”)-it’s a wild amalgamation of grilled vegetables, pancetta (Italian unsmoked bacon), pine nuts, and cacciotta cheese. The slightly harsh flavor derived from the grilled eggplant, which combined the slight bitterness of the vegetable and a smoky aftertaste.

The grilled lamb chops turned out to be afairly standard version. Their marinara mintsauce turned out to be a minty glaze andsome chopped tomatoes on the side. Thevitello portamonete also did not quite live upto its description. The name means “moneypurse” and usually denotes a stuffed dish;the veal here was rolled up but not reallyholding a stuffing. The tasty ingredients-pistachios, pecans, pine nuts, and Gorgon-zola-were blended into the Marsala sauceinstead. The veal was a sizable portion, buta bit overcooked. Both meat dishes camewith a side of polenta, the Italian version offried cornmeal mush. It was lackluster-notcrisply enough fried or richly enough saucedto be memorable. Tutti Rizzi’s desserts, too,looked better than they tasted. The tirami su(a coffee mousse layered with angel foodcake) was bland, and the cassata little moreexciting than a Baskin-Robbins ice creamcake. 300 Main St, Fort Worth. (817) 332-2664. Breakfast Mon-Fri 7-9:30; lunch Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat5:30-11. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.



Leo’s Seafood Grill



A good, inexpensive seafood restaurant is a sort of place everybody would like to find more of-but they are rare as freshwater springs hereabouts. One of the better recent contenders is this airy, noisy spot far north on Greenville Avenue. The only view from the big windows or from the patio is of a spacious parking lot, and the din from the television set over the bar, from the recorded music, and especially from the boisterous diners can make conversation impossible, But the atmosphere is friendly and the seafood here is definitely above average.

Among the starters, the shrimp in the cocktail are firm and resilient and flavorful, the gumbo is fine if you like the dense, highly spiced variety, and the fried calamari are tasty and crisp if chewier than you might like. Main courses include exemplary versions of fried catfish and cornmeal -coated fried shrimp. The broiled salmon had a delicate crust and moist flesh-only the excessive sweetness of its sauce, made with lots of fresh dill, kept the salmon from being really exceptional. The only seafood dish that disappointed us was the so-called seafood stew-the dish came with a thick sauce rather than as a soupy-type stew, and the shellfish included some rather over-the-hill mussels and tough scallops.

The biggest surprise at Leo’s is thedesserts, baked by a relative of the restaurant’s owner. Desserts are usually throw-aways at unpretentious seafood houses, butthese pies are among the best at any Dallasrestaurant. The Key lime pie is surprisingly tart and authentic, and the chocolate-pecan pie has a splendid filling and a flakycrust. The bread pudding is especially tasty.too. This place has other pleasant surprises,such as unusual homemade French friesmade from new potatoes. Leo’s SeafoodGrill definitely fills a need for an inexpensiveseafood restaurant where some care is takenwith the food. 12255 Greenville, Suite 130.234-3474. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11,Sat 5 pm-11 pm, Sun 5 pm-10 pm. MC, V, AE.Inexpensive to moderate, -W.L.T.



RESTAURANTS



BARBECUE & BURGERS



Blue Ribbon Bar-B-Que. Service is pretty much do-it-yourself-amble down the cafeteria line, pile your plate with terrific ribs, slow-cooked beef and ham, and spicy sausage, your choice of hot or mild beans. German potato salad, or coleslaw, then pick up your longneck and head for a table, After a few bites and a few bars of “Rose of San Antone,” you’ll forget that’s Mockingbird Lane outside the door. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams). 823-5524. Inexpensive.



The Bronx. The Bronx’s menu of top-notch burgers (the guacamole and bacon burger is a favorite) and omelettes i augmented by blackboard specials. On a recent visit, we started with potato skins, gooey with melted cheese, and then attempted to finish a hunk of Mom-style meat loaf, covered with onion- and pepper-filled tomato sauce. Garden lasagna was delicious, loaded with all sorts of vegetables and so rich with cheese you didn’t miss the meat. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive.



Prince of Hamburgers. Lined up in a row with our trays hooked to the window and a waitress bearing beer and burgers heading our way. we felt a bit of a flashback, sort of like Peggy Sue in the movie. But the food brought us back with a jolt: the burgers, served on a well-toasted bun in a basket with superlative fries, are tops; the chili dogs are served burger-style, and the old-fashioned milkshakes come in real glasses. Now. if only I had a convertible.. ..5210 Lemmon. 526-9081. Inexpensive.



Roscoe’s Easy Way. When the Easy Way moved from Lovers Lane to Lemmon Avenue, the faithful were worried. There was no need for consternation. Though the setting is v slicker, the rule of ordering still applies: stick to the barbecue and you’ll be happy. 5420 Lemmon. 528-8459. Inexpensive.



CAJUN



D REVISITS



Cafe Margaux. This once stellar new-style Cajun restaurant had lately devolved into confusion, the menu a patchwork of leftover ideas from failed ventures (spa food fromMargaux Natural, trendy American from Agnew’s Grill)and former chefs (most notably Indian inspirations fromSurinder Ratra), along with vaguely Continental dishes introduced when Cajun cooking seemed on its way out. On mylast visit this eclectic list had been pruned a little; it seemeda little less of an Agnew family scrapbook and was focusedmore on what was originally done best here: contemporaryCajun cuisine. An appetizer of Cajun popcorn (friedcrawfish meat) was hot and crunchy (accompanying sherrysauce was bland), crawfish étouffée was good, if a triflespicy, and the crawfish and shrimp enchiladas were teriffic.Service was smooth, but the room is strangely soulless. 3710 Rawlins. 520-1985. Moderate. -M.B.M.



D REVISITS



Crescent City Cafe. The Cajun food craze has hit andmissed, another passing fancy of foodophiles, but the real;tuff, of course, is a legitimate cuisine that is here to stay.This is eminently clear at Crescent City Cafe; the menu islimited, but what they serve is some of the best Cajun foodin Dallas. And Crescent City’s new location in Deep Ellumhas the funky charm as well as the fine food of a genuineCrescent City eatery. The barbecue shrimp-served with biband fingerbowl-are a fine, messy, spicy version of Manale’soriginal dish, great with an ice-cold Dixie beer (CrescentCity also has a full bar and a bartender who serves the bestdaiquiri in town.) The oyster loaf is stuffed with fat friedshellfish, and the muffaletta gets my vote for Dallas’s bestsandwich, a chewy loaf of fresh-baked Italian bread piledwith olive salad, salami, provolone, ham, and mozzarella.The beignets, served with honey, reminded me more ofsopapillas than the fried wonders of Café du Monde, but theytasted fine with a big cup of café au lait. 1 just wish CrescentCity were still open for breakfast. . . 2730 Commerce.745-1900. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



CHINESE



Crystal Pagoda. Among the appetizers is one of the city’s best versions of Bon Bon chicken (shredded meat topped with a paste of peanuts and hot peppers). The Hunan lamb and the shrimp with cashew nuts are also memorable. But the crispy duck is a major disappointment: not nearly crisp enough and almost tasteless. 4516 McKinney. 526-3355. Moderate.



Hao’s. The kitchen uses almost no MSG, which gives many of the dishes a uniquely fresh taste. Almost all the stir-fries come with a bevy of fresh vegetables including broccoli and snow peas and bell peppers. The food at Hao’s is well prepared, but many of the dishes tend to look and taste alike-even those that are supposed to be spicy, like the beef gui and the garlic shrimp. The Mandarin chicken does have an interesting texture and a refreshing lemon sauce, and the lightly flavored, egg-colored fried rice is a standout. The only real failure among the dishes we tried here was the Chinese chicken salad-something like a taco salad with ro-laine and sesame seeds, about which the less said the better. 8440 Abrams. 343-3998 Inexpensive to moderate.



Henry Chen’s. This is one of the best-looking Chinese restaurants in town. Of course, pretty is as pretty does, and Henry Chen’s acquits itself honorably on that front: the food, to judge from orange beef and chicken with snow peas, is significantly above average, if not quite as noteworthy as the decor. 3701 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 180. 956-9560. Moderate.



Hong Kong Royale. The barbecued duck will probably be loo fatty for most Occidental tastes, but the special Chinese soup will make lots of converts to authenticity-a hearty beefbroth filled with tender, bone-in chunks of meat, bok choy, and other, more unusual Chinese vegetables. Two of the besit-prepared Chinese dishes we have been served in Dallas are the scallops in a potato nest and the fresh whole sole steamed under a blanket of black beans, cilantro, garlic, and scallions. These delights don’t come cheap. The sole cost $25 (worth it if you’ve got it). And, come to think of it. even the noontime dim sum can mount up in price awfully fast here, 221 W Post. Richardson. 238-8888 Moderate to expensive.



Plum Blossom. Chef Sieve Chiang’s innovative menu has some real successes and some dull spots. We sampled the Great Dynasty Banquet on our last visit, and were impressed by the dish of wonton filled with shrimp and chicken and stir-fried with Chinese greens. The combination of lobster, crab claws, and prawns was enhanced by a black bean sauce treated in a style reminiscent of French cooking-the seasonings were blended smoothly together rather than left discrete, as is the Chinese wont. But we were less impressed by the gamy-tasting frog legs and flabby-textured rabbit meat in orange peel chili sauce. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stem-mons Fwy. 748-1200. Expensive.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL



Chez Gerard. Though my last visit here began and ended on a high note, the effect was marred by slightly lackluster entrees. A duck liver and spinach Napoleon was flawless- still-rosy slices of liver layered with bright green spinach and flaky pastry-and the onion soup was everything onion soup can be. At the other end. crème caramel was a precise balance of bittersweet syrup and lightly sweet custard. But the grilled swordfish was slightly dry, and the fennel sauce bathing a fillet of taramia was so subtle it was almost bland, which the accompanying potato and vegetables frankly were. 4444 McKinney. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive.



The French Room. From salads (green bean and green salad with goat cheese croutons) to entrées (salmon and rack of lamb) to dessert (apple tart), the food on our East visit was all that one could ask for. What’s more, the sommelier is both congenial and well informed; he is as happy to advise customers on a single glass of wine as a rare bottle. Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.



Jonathan’s. Dinner started out disconcertingly when our waiter reversed our drink order and forgot who belonged to which appetizer. But the piping hot Australian lamb chops in rosemary butter and a dish of tomato linguette with diced red pepper and Italian sausage in cream cheered us up. And an order of baked Boston bluefish was nicely cooked: the leek, carrot, and celery slivers topping the fillet were crisp-lender. 2917 Fairmount. 954-0028. Moderate.



L’Ancestral. First courses-an onion tan accented with pungent orange zest and a salad of tiny-diced ham. tomato. cheese, apple, and cabbage bound with homemade mayonnaise-were unusual and outstanding. Grilled swordfish and perfect pommes frites (that’s French fries to you) were followed by simple green salads and soothingly classic desserts-comforting caramel pot de crème and sumptuous chocolate truffle cake. 4514 Thaw. 528-1081. Moderate to expensive.



La Brussels. This little Belgian restaurant in Snider Plaza is a real discovery. We started with a cup of the commendable bouillabaisse accompanied by pungent aioli and garlic toasts, and smoked rainbow trout with zippy horseradish cream. From the entrees we ordered lamb chops in mustard crust, steak au poivre vert, and a mixed grill (ribeye, chicken breast, and a lamb chop). All the food was forthright, with no frills and lots of flavor. We splurged on several desserts to share along with our pot of Belgian coffee; the day’s special tarte tatin, with its pile of caramel apple chunks, and the luscious chocolate mousse took the prize. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.



Left Bank. The left bank in question is that of the Trinity River, and the restaurant in question is the best thing to hit Oak Cliff since the viaduct from downtown. The food is simple, French-influenced, and changes every day. On the weekend, all of Oak Cliff wants to be here, so reservations are essential. 408 N Bishop, Suite 104. 948-1630. Inexpensive to moderate.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPE



Belvedere. Perfectly tender Wiener schnitzel is what keeps me coming back to Belvedere. Alas, this time around the rehsteak Hubertus, a Montana venison preparation that I had fond memories of from past dinners, was dry and uninteresting. I had to console myself with an extra order of spaetzle (fat. freshly made dumplings). Salads, appetizers, and desserts, while not egregious, have never been advisable here unless you’re extremely hungry. CrestPark Hotel, 4242 homo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.



The Chimney. It’s still crowded after all these years at this doyenne of North Dallas restaurants. The food-Middle European without much specific ethnic emphasis-is well prepared, if unsubtle. The special appetizer, a crêpe holding a bounteous harvest of seafood, tastes too strongly of capers, for example. The hefty portion of venison tenderloin is cooked to a turn, but the reddish sauce adds little in the way of flavor. Most of the atmosphere comes from the delicate playing of the pianist at the baby grand-The Chimney is one of the lew restaurants where live music is an asset rather than a liability. 9739 N Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.



Hofstetter’s. Hofstetter’s half-dozen appetizers and seventeen entries run a daily-changing gamut of fresh creativity applied to traditional dishes, most of them Austrian, but some straying definitely Frenchward. You might start with steamed mussels, bathed in a bracing tarragon-Dijon sauce, then proceed to rosy slices of duck breast, crisp-skinned and sided with walnuts in thyme-scented cassis sauce, with a Zinfandel-poached pear finishing off the plate. On the more traditional side, pork tenderloin medallions dolloped with Montrachet cheese in port sauce are partnered with delec-tably tender spaetzle, the classic little German noodles, and a marinated cucumber salad. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.



GREEK



D REVISITS



Crackers. Not all Greek candidates are political (his season-restaurateur Gus Katsigris, who recently left retirement to reopen his Greek eatery on McKinney Avenue with co-owner Nick Koustis, is running for reinstatement. He’s got my vote-I don’t know whether the brief respite freshened his outlook or mine, but the Crackers I visited recently seemed immensely improved since I last dined in its former incarnation. Appetizers were a benediction; tiropetes, the puff pastry-wrapped triangles’ of feta and ricotta cheeses, symphonic in flavor; tzatziki, a garlic-spiked yogurt cucumber dip, fresh and lively on small wedges of pita bread. Souvlaki was skewered succulence, its tenderloin cubes zipped with olive oil-and-lemon marinade. Baby lamb chops, a special of the day, were bite-sized sorcery, broiled rare as ordered despite our waiter’s dark warnings that lamb should always be cooked well done. Salads, side dishes, and a dessert of warm peach cobbler were all fresh and satisfying, and heady Greek coffee would have been a prime contribution to any campaign. Ambience-wise, the place hasn’t changed a bit-it’s got the same poster-hung, old-house hospitality the old Crackers had. The only discernible difference is that the food’s improved, according to this survey’s results-which, however unofficial, deserve passing on. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-7268. Inexpensive to moderate.

-B.C.



D REVISITS



Goldfinger. An energetic man with very white teeth plucksmusic from a bazouki held behind his head (amazinglywell). A girl of astounding Flexibility makes truly remarkable moves with parts of her silk veiled body (very beautifully). A multitude of baby crab claws heaped on a plateoverwhelms me with the amount of stale-tasting grease-or is that Greece?-each tiny morsel has absorbed. But therest of the meal is better, the soup a lemony delight in richchicken stock, the lamb succulently broiled, the abundantfeta salad fresh and crisp. The souvlaki’s creditable, andeven the dolmas would have been nice if they’d been a littleless salted (a flaw they shared with several other lesserdishes on our visit). Co-owners Peter N. Varelas and chefGeorge Liberies are working hard to see that food gets equalbilling with entertainment in their rejuvenated establishment, but the truth is, Gold finger is more club than restaurant in its impact; one has trouble refraining from chewingto the constant music’s exuberant rhythm and cannot escapethe feeling servers would rather take drink orders than attendto dining details. Still, the dining room’s spacious tiers andfresh blue linens do create a pleasant setting for the noisyMediterranean-style fun. 2905 Webb Chapel Ext. 350-6983.Moderate to expensive. -B.C.



INDIAN



Ashoka. This small Far North Dallas Indian restaurant is the only one we know of that offers a buffet in the evening as well as at lunchtime. When we visited, though, the dishes seemed warmed over and were slow to be replenished, so ordering off the menu seems a belter choice. The shrimp curry Bombay and the lamb korma were both beautifully sauced. The lamb cubes grilled in the tandoori oven, though, seemed a small portion, and both this dish and the tandoori chicken seemed, surprisingly, a trifle spicy. Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 5409 Bell Line. 960-0070. Inexpensive to moderate.



D REVISITS



Kebab & Kurry. This north Dallas spot continues to serve some of the best Indian food in the area; lately, the service has been more personable and less inscrutable than in the past. Any of the wonderful breads or selections from the tan-door make good choices for the novice (even my kids like it), while the shahajani biryani-a complicated mix of rice, chicken, and vegetables-exhibits the balance of innumerable ingredients (hat makes Indian food so exciting. Chutneys and vegetable dishes are also outstanding, but I have to confess I don’t understand Indian desserts. 401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556 Inexpert-sive to moderate. N -M.B.M.



ITALIAN



Acapella Cafe. Critics who fretted over the fading decor of Adriano’s in the Quadrangle wouldn’t know the place in its reincarnation as Acapella. They’d recognize the menu, though-with the exception of a handful of additions, it’s (he same, with a creative catalogue of pizzas playing the lead, a supporting cast of pastas, and a couple of chicken dishes. A new Hawaiian pizza sounds bizarre-fresh pineapple, coconut, ginger, macadamia nuts, and optional cubed ham on great crust-but the sum of the parts is splendid. Try one of the new tilted pastas; the ravioli, fragile squares centered with mild cheese and spinach in rich cream sauce, was near-ethereal , A fresh fruit pie also rated raves-strawberries and rhubarb with real whipped cream in a whole-wheat crust. 2508 Maple. 871-2262- Inexpensive to moderate.

Alessio’s. Crab croquettes on a recent visit were complemented by an unusually subtle basil cream sauce. Minestrone was absolutely the best I’ve ever tasted-a sturdy studding of lima beans, cabbage, zucchini, turnips, et al. in tomato-based broth zinged with lemon. Rack of lamb riblets were divinely rosy in white wine sauce whispering of thyme, but highest marks go to the evening’s veal chop, a half-pound monster of exceptional tenderness and flavor, barely haunted with rosemary. Lemon ice was the perfect dessert, ringed with fresh blackberries. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.



II Sorrento. My roasted red bell peppers with anchovy strips were fairly old-style, lavished with olive oil; shrimp dipped in olive oil and bread crumbs, then broiled, were freshly sauced. Tortellini stuffed with Swiss chard and gilded with walnut sauce were outstanding, and homemade tortellini baked in buttery cream sauce were redolent of fresh Parmesan. Veal scallops with crisp asparagus were commendable, too, but the real debauch came with dessert: a zabaglione of surpassing subtlety and rum cake, a longstanding specialty. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.



Mario’s. One of the oldest of Dallas’s fancy restaurants seems better than it has in a long time. For appetizers, the cannelloni and the shrimp with mushrooms in a rich cream sauce are standouts. The veal Milanese is crisp and tender. the red snapper Mario perky in its sauce spiked with capers, For dessert, order one of the souffle’s-but do so early, because the wait can be long. 135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Expensive.



D REVISITS



Montefiascone. This small Italian restaurant on a forlorn strip of Harry Hines has earned something of a reputation, but we can’t quite see why. The menu is the standard Italian fare of Dallas Italian places of the late Seventies, cooked without distinction. The octopus salad (one of the few appetizers listed) turned out to be plain, unmarinated, boiled octopus-a huge platter, with a tan dressing on the side. The chicken Villa d’Este (with cheese, cream, and mushrooms) was bland, and the tortellini had strips of unappetizing boiled ham. The best dish we tried was the cannelloni, stuffed with meat and spinach and smothered in a cream sauce. 10976 Harry Hines at Walnut Hill. 350-2227. Moderate. -W.L.T.



Nero’s Italian. Critics should follow their own advice-after touting the pizzas here for years as the best thing on Nero’s rnenu, we tried tonier offerings on our last visit, with mixed results. Osso Buco, the traditional peasant’s dish of veal shank baked with garlic, tomato, carrot, onion, and celery and herb-seasoned, was a hearty, meaty delight. Pork loin Palermo, on the other hand, was a dry and leathery disaster- To our excellent waiter’s credit, he offered to replace it, but we had already progressed through Caesar salad (fresh and nicely seasoned, although overlight on the requisite anchovy accent) and focaccio (disappointingly thick and doughy), and voted to move on to triple-chocolate cake (ambrosial) and fine espresso. 2104 Greenville. 826-6376 Moderate.



Pomodoro. Our first lunch here was pure delight; sunny minestrone, crisp-vegetable filled and deeply flavored; a salad of caper-strewn pepper strips. Toothsome spinach linguini held a wealth of shell-free clam meat in the freshest herbed tomato sauce imaginable. The second visit’s more extensive sampling revealed a few excesses: Bresaola, the lamed sun-dried cured beef, was a trifle leathery; mussels and clams cooked with garlic in olive oil were oversalted. Thin-sliced calf’s liver was cooked past the rare I had ordered, but its white wine and onion sauce was delicate; a Cornish game hen, herbed, split, and broiled, was perfect all the way. Do try flown-from-Italy buffalo Mozzarella rounds, drizzled with olive oil, indescribably wonderful. And do try the traditional dessert of dense little almond biscuits, served with sweet wine for unashamed dipping. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.



Ristorante Savino. An appetizer sampler of pastas, obligingly created when we could not choose among them. included a Flawless swirl of angel hair in lobster sauce, as well as tortellini in deep-flavored demi-glace, the whole lavished with Reggiano Parmesan shredded over them at the table. Satin-fresh mozzarella rounds with tomato in basil dressing were flawless; red snapper sautéed with fresh tomato and basil was the same. My longtime favorite, roast veal slices served cold in rich tuna sauce, was not quite up to standard-the veal was a trifle dry-but still outstanding. And the single serving of chocolate mousse cake our table shared was sin enough for all. 2929 N Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.



Ruggeri’s. I couldn’t help regretting that no one warned me the soft-shell crab on my appetizer plate had been frozen, not fresh, before its sautéeing in garlic-spiked olive oil; but its texture and taste were acceptable if its rectangular shape was not. Otherwise, everything on our dinner visit touched happy Chords, from al dente angel hair pasta with tomato, fresh basil, and garlic to veal scallops sautéed with artichoke hearts and mushrooms in butter. And if 1 had the chef’s recipe for cioppino, 1 swear I’d open a restaurant myself- the fisherman’s stew of fresh seafoods in spicy marinara sauce was nothing less than sublime. Sweets-cravers can indulge sans sin on a silken crema caramela or extravagantly wicked chocolate mousse cake-all made in-house. 2911 Routh Si. 871-7377. Moderate.



Sfuzzi. Pizzas here are exceptional, with a thick but somehow light crust; the grilled salmon pizza with yellow tomatoes ranks as one of the best pies in Dallas, but the veal version, with sun-dried tomatoes, is also a winner. From the selection of “primi plates,” the salads were terrific. Arugula and radicchio were sprinkled with crisp pancetta and crumbled Gorgonzola and dressed in balsamic vinaigrette; spinach salad was arranged with grilled chicken chunks, toasted pine nuts, and yellow tomatoes. Pastas aren’t handled as well-a serving of angel hair was overcooked and under-sauced. But fettuccine with pancetta, Parmesan, and cream was surprisingly lighter than a classic Alfredo. 2504 McKin-ney. 871-2606. Moderate.



D REVISITS



311 Lombardi’s. The hustle and bustle of our touristy West End is not necessarily conducive to good eating (as the demise of a number of (he best restaurants in the area may indicate). But 311 Lombardi’s manages to feel both busy and classy, and its food remains better than it probably has to be in this neighborhood. The waiters will hardly let you sit down without ordering the trademark focaccia (though a tariff of about five bucks for what is basically garlic bread-albeit very fancy garlic bread-seems a trifle outrageous). The fettuccine with fresh salmon is an interesting pasta choice, and the bone-in veal chop alia milanese, crisply breaded and fried, comes garnished with arugula and tomato-anyone for salad and main course all at the same time? The intricate cakes, heavily embellished with butter cream icing and flavored with liqueurs, seem too heavy a;ending for an Italian meal. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322.Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.



JAPANESE/KOREAN



Hana Japanese Restaurant. As in most Japanese restaurants. the sushi bar here is the social center-a joyous stretch of immaculate revelry staffed by swift-bladed showmen who slice out the usual artistic raw-fish delicacies as well as a specialty or two all their own: their oyster shot, a chewable potion involving raw oyster, fresh quail egg, and spicy accents, is atone worth a visit. The kitchen excels, too, with shrimp tempura and fried oysters crisped to air-light, greaseless perfection, grilled salmon steak and beef teriyaki moistly tender. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.



Sakura Japanese Restaurant. Years ago, when dined at its original location. Sakura was the first restaurant where I’d ever been asked to take off my shoes before entering. This time, we dined to live piano music in a Western lounge furnished with cushioned rattan. The tempura-fried shrimp were almost as light and lacy as I remembered them; Shabu-Shabu, thin-sliced beef cooked quickly at table with fresh vegetables, was almost as delightful. The assortment of sushi we ordered as appetizers was impeccably fresh-tuna, jumbo clam, octopus, a salmon-and-egg standout marvelously sauced with a single quail egg broken over it. 7402 Greenville Ave. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.



Mr. Sushi. The sushi bar’s offerings may be as fine as ever, but a sushi dinner brought to the table had the look of having been made in advance and left to sit for some time before serving. The hot dishes, though, were satisfying-a creditable beef and chicken teriyaki entree was preceded by an extra-fresh toss of crisp strings of carrot and daikon radish, ginger-sparked. And a traditional dinner called Kaiseki involved a ceremonial parade of ten sampler courses. The sweet-but-not-cloying red bean ice cream may have been the best I’ve had. 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168.. Moderate.



D REVISITS



Nakamoto. This Piano restaurant (which used to be named Ishi-Sushi) may be the most decked-out Japanese restaurant in the Metroplex, with everything from Samurai armor to flocks of ikebana birds figuring in the decor. The sushi bar offers a nice variety of fish of exemplary’ freshness. Among the cooked dishes, fish also stands out-the salmon butteryaki has a pleasantly charred exterior and moist meat. Less impressive are the slightly soggy shrimp tempura andtough pork lonkatsu. Don’t try desserts here unless you canfall in love with green tea or red bean icecreams. RuisseauVillage, Suite 360. 3309 N Central Expressway, Plano.881-0328. Moderate. N -W.L.T.



Sushi on McKlnnay. The hot foods here are purely mediocre, except for a first-class salad, but who cares? The sushi bar’s where the action is, and where the good eats are. in this sociable hangout. All the standards are impeccable-dark tuna and yellow tail, crisp jumbo clam and chewy aba-lone, salmon roe squid. Sweet shrimp, highly touted by my neighbor at the bar, turned out to be whole creatures, flash-fried to crispness, eyes, antennae, and all. “It’s wonderful!” he said. “I believe you.” I said. I couldn’t hack it-I hope you’ll forgive me. 4500 McKinney. 521-0969. Moderate.



MEXICAN



Brazos. Ensalada paraiso, Brazos’s chefs salad, is a meal in itself and a good one, too. Grilled entrees come with black beans, rice, and red or green chili; we tried the chili-marinated redfish the first visit, the beef tampiquena the second, and were disappointed both times. The two special entrees were better: red chili-cheese enchiladas were very good and King Ranch chicken was tasty too, with tots of chicken and tortillas under the gooey cheese and sour cream. 2100 Greenville at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate.



Case Rosa. Fried stuffed jalapenos and tortilla soup were good beginners, both more attractively presented than is usual in Mexican restaurants. The chile relleno that followed was breaded too heavily, but the tilling and the ranchera sauce were flavorful. Polio en la concha was a rich dish of chicken chunks and slivered peppers smothered in thick cheese and sour cream in a fried flour tortilla shell. 165 In-wood Village (Inwood at Lovers). 350-5227. Moderate.



J. Pepe’s. J. Pepe’s Mexican food is a cut above most local Tex-Mexeries, and its setting is exceptionally pleasant. These two facts, plus the availability of outdoor seating (the local appetite for margaritas consumed en plein air is apparently boundless), go far to explain the madding crowds found here on weekend nights. 2800 Routh. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.



La Mansion De Blas. This is Deep Ellum’s only Mexican restaurant, and it’s a fun place to go if only because people-watching is great from the little fenced-in patio. and you’re just a hop. skip, and a jump from what’s happenin’. The food has its highs and lows (chicken molé and tamales were highs, basic beans and nachos were lows), but the hot sauce and pico de gallo are good and hot. the beer is cold, the margaritas are good, and, as I said, the location is great. 2935 Elm. 939-0853. Inexpensive.



Loma Luna Cafe. Blue corn chicken enchiladas were stacked, not rolled, smothered with green chilies, and layered with lots of chicken and cheese. Sandia Range chicken, from the list of grilled items on the menu, was smoked and grilled over pecan wood. Served with Santa Fe-style beans and rice, the chicken was moist and tender even after its double treatment. For dessert, the flan was excellent; the vanilla ice cream covered with cajeta, caramelized goat’s milk, was a delight. 4131 homo Alto. 559-4011. Moderate.



Mario’s Chiquita. This conservative but pretty pastel restaurant offers dependable Tex-Mex. but its forte is the kitchen’s specialties such as the tacos al carbon, tender strips of steak folded in flour tortillas, or the carnitas a la tampi-queno, a plate of grilled pork strips sided by a cheese enchilada in a terrific ranchera sauce. Chiquita’s carne asada is great and almost worth ordering for the triangles of grilled Linares cheese alone, and the sopapilla with cinnamon ice cream is one of the few really wonderful desserts I’ve had with Mexican food. 4514 Travis. #105 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721. Moderate.



Martinez Cafe. This family-run café in a converted house on Routh Street has a comfortable, home-grown feel. The food is Tex-Mex-standard combinations, but of superlative quality and served with a smile. Outstanding chips and salsa and a plate evenly striped with rice, beans, and cheese enchiladas made me happy; flautas and guacamole were equally good. The menu here is what you expect from a good Tex-Mex restaurant; the food is what you hope for. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston Rd (Preston Park Village), Piano. 964-7898 Inexpensive.



Mia’s. Mia’s mystique eludes me. The Tex-Mex served here is good and dependable, the service is last and friendly, but the ambience is elbow-to-elbow and, for me, Mia’s success is its failure. The long lines make you think too hard about just how good those enchiladas are. Are they worth a forty-five-minute wait? Thirty minutes? Fifteen? Or shall we just go someplace else? If you’re a believer, it’s not too much trouble to call ahead and reserve your chile relleno on Tuesdays, and if you want one. that’s what you’ll have to do. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.



On The Border Cafe. This is Dallas’s original fajita factory, and the room has the appropriate Texas feel-lots of cactus and lots of Western memorabilia. We were introduced to a series of waiters before anyone decided to actually take our order, but once it got going, the service was fine and the food was good. Chicken fajita quesadillas were a satisfying beginning; cheese enchiladas were a rich version, and beef fajitas were tender and smoky. The bonus was the Border’s burger: grilled to order and sided by jalapeno French fries, it was one of the best I’ve had. 3300 Knox St. 528-5900. Moderate.



Prumo’s. The menu is Tex-Mex, with blackboard specials, and, except for bland margaritas and some overcooked shrimp, everything we sampled on a recent visit was as soul-satisfying as good Tex-Mex can get. Prime’s offers one of the best botanas platters around-two kinds of nachos, midget flautas, and terrific quesadillas. Take note of the tiny, crispy meat tacos-fried after they’re filled, and available in the standard size, too. The chicken enchilada in ranchera sauce was also memorable. 3309 McKinney. 520-3303. Inexpensive.



D REVISITS



Tejas Cafe. Maybe the kicky addition of Bob Wade’s bully hooed cactus sculptures to its rooftop led me to expect more than Tejas was equipped to deliver in its food, which was altogether fresh and ordinary as usual on my recent visit. Nearest thing to a standout we tried was a quesadilla filled with fresh spinach and other good things along with molten jack cheese. Tortilla soup was salty and soggy, and carne asada, rather than the promised tenderloin filet, was a dry tenderized cut of the sort that goes into fajitas. A Tex-Mex combination plate named for the place pretty well exemplified its culinary character-enchiladas, taco, and standard accompaniments were adequate but undistinguished and, on the whole, rather bland- We did enjoy the honey-drizzled sopapillas, though, and our collegiate-casual waiter did everything he could to make the meal pleasant. We came away wishing the (bod’s zip had matched his. 2909 McKinney. 871-2050. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.



NATURAL



Bluebonnet Cafe. Bluebonnet Cafe is part of Whole Foods Market, and as the name of the establishment indicates, the food tends toward the healthful. Happily, however, Bluebonnet doesn’t take a doctrinaire stand. Burgers, wine, and coffee-three controlled substances at hard-line health establishments-are allowed here. Check out the strawberry-banana-papaya smoothie and the black bean nachos with white cheese and guacamole. 2218 Greenville. 828-0052. Inexpensive.



Dream Cafe. I find Dream Cafe’s breakfast and brunch dishes head and shoulders above some of their more solemnly nutritious lunch and dinner specialties. In fairness, my samplings of the latter were limited, but a stir-fry of tempeh and polenta cubes with vegetables was disappointing. Japanese noodles tossed with steamed vegetables in tamari-ginger-miso sauce were microbiotically correct but hardly electrifying. What did knock my socks off was a fresh-as-morning omelette delectably filled with chicken, fresh pears, and blue cheese, the sweet fruit and sharp cheese perfect complements to the milder flavors of eggs and white meat. And a Sunday brunch special of strawberry pancakes almost beggars description, the pancakes airy whole wheat folds over sliced ripe berries, the whole affair lavished with whipped butter and warm syrup. 2800 Routh St, Suite 170, in the Quadrangle. 954-0486 Inexpensive.



NEW AMERICAN

Actuelle. The most innovative and consistently exciting cooking at any Dallas restaurant these days is taking place at Actuelle. Everything on the menu here is an adventure, but be sure to try the fish. Chef Victor Gielisse has won two national contests in fish cooking, and the evidence can be found here in the likes of the grilled Norwegian salmon-light as a puff of smoke, crisp as an autumn day, sauced to perfection in a tomato vinaigrette with fresh marjoram. The pear poached in pinot noir swathed in butterscotch sauce makes an equally glorious final touch to a meal. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 855-0440. Expensive.



Baby Routh. Chef Rex Hale doesn’t seem to have hit his stride yet with the sometimes recherché inventions of the New Southwestern cuisine on his menu. Some of these are takeoffs on standard dishes: seafood tamales with ancho cream sauce (rather mealy, without the texture of the best tamales) or seafood jambalaya (interestingly high-picante but with a weird vegetable accompaniment masquerading as gumbo z’herbes). An original dish, a thin slice of venison sautéed with a mustard serrano glaze, also failed to excite. Salads lack oomph here these days, but the desserts have plenty of verve. 2708 Routh. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.



City Cafe. The simple dishes had it all over the complicated ones here on our last visit. The ordinary-sounding fresh tomato soup turned out to be comfort food for angels, and the sautéed sole with lemon butler was elegant perfection. The Maryland crabcakes, on the other hand, hardly justified all the effort, and the roasted shoulder of wild boar stuffed with wild rice, pine nuts, and currants with a cranberry cassis sauce proved overcooked and chewy. At dessert time, however, elaboration won the day with a peanut butter fudge pie, whipped cream, and hot fudge sauce. 5757 W Lovers Lane (just west of Dallas N Tollwav). 351-2233, Moderate.



D REVISITS



Deep Ellum Cafe. This cafe in Deep Ellum has becomea local favorite (best to have reservations on weekends) andfor all the right reasons-the food is exciting, delicious, andreasonably priced; service is friendly and efficient; and theplace is casually charming with its high ceilings, brick walls,trellised patio, and general out-of-the-fast-lane feeling. Onmy last visit, starters were tops: goat cheese and sweetroasted garlic, sun-dried-tomato toasts with savory garlicand basil, and crabcakes with a spicy Thai-style sauce. Entrées were just as good, from the succulent salmon steamedin a corn husk to the roast chicken with rich aioli. The dilldumplings were so large they seemed heavy, but that’s aminor quibble-overall, I go along with the crowd. Thisplace is one of my favorites. 2704 Elm St. 741-9012.Moderate. -M.B.M.



D REVISITS



The Mansion on Turtle Creak. Star chef Dean Fearing is out of the kitchen and on the road much of the time these days, but the Mansion kitchen seems to be doing just fine without him. Aside from an incoherent list of specials(I was templed by an entrée of Indian-inspired yogurt-marinated lamb with curry and chutney, but couldn’t findanything to complement it), the kitchen’s work was up to par.Mansion standards-lobster tacos with yellow tomato salsa,tortilla soup, chicken baked with maple-pecan crust-andspecials-softshell crab with barbecue crust and Cajunsausage with onion pasta-scaled the expected peak ofperfection, which at these prices, they should. However, thefront of the house didn’t measure up. Our reservation waslost and so was our waiter for much of the meal-errors thatmight be forgiven in a lesser establishment, but are inexcusable at the Mansion. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121.Expensive. -M.B.M.



McKinney & Knox. This place has matured into one of the city’s better restaurant bargains. The menu is huge, and the specials of the day add even more choices-interesting ones, but not excessively ambitious. Fish can be a real test of a kitchen’s mettle, and we found two fish specials excellent: sautéed redfish with lime-cilantro sauce served with linguini, and a grilled yellowfin tuna with a pineapple-basil buerre blanc (the latter sauce tasted better than it sounds). 4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Moderate.



Parigl. So much is so good at this hip place that typifies the yuppification of Oak Lawn: the design-it-yourself pizza is splendiferous, the twin chicken pate’s (one creamy, one roughly textured) subtle, the grilled fish buttery and tender. Why then are the most famous specialties so infuriatingly uneven? The inventive-sounding pasta dishes often turn out to be Frankensteinish-the one with fresh fennel, chicken, and homemade tomato sauce was an inedible monster. And the vaunted desserts, like the chocolate glob, can be too gooey and sweet. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295, Expensive.



The Promenade at the Mansion. Lunch at the Promenade features some terrific examples of New Southwestern cuisine. The Southwest ancho pizza with smoked chicken, jalapeno jack cheese, poblano peppers, and cilantro may be the best New Wave pizza in Dallas. Southwestern-style soups, especially the yellow-tomato gazpacho, are also outstanding. The pork loin scallopini with a sauce of capers, tomato, smoked bacon, and parsley is yet another winner. Lunchtime desserts at the Promenade lean toward extraordinary versions of downhome favorites (shortcakes, cobblers. Mississippi Mud pie, and the like). 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2I00 Moderate to expensive.

Spatz. The menu here holds little more than a couple of soups, a couple of salads, a short list of pasta dishes (all made with the same delectable, al dente fettuccine), and simple things like fried catfish, The pastas are dependably flavorful, from a smoky-tasting number with peppered bacon and mushrooms to an assertive version with an-chovies, capers, and lots of garlic. The fried things-such as big, tender shrimp-are surprisingly memorable, loo, with homemade potato chips and a perky chili sauce on the side. Most of the obvious ambition here seems to go into the daily specials like a poblano pepper stuffed with chicken and coated with a crisp cornmeal batter. 2912 N Henderson. 827-7984. Moderate.



SEAFOOD



Café Pacific. The star turn at our table was veal Oscar, an impressively thick, tender cut enhanced with crab meat, snapping-fresh asparagus spears, and zippy hollandaise. Admittedly, a ceviche of lobster, baby scallops, and shrimp was opulently presented, spiked with tomato and cilantro confetti , but its lime marinade struck me as a trifle sharp. And an entrée of jumbo shrimp sautéed scampi style, while fresh, was not nearly as exciting as the veal. A wedge of light cheesecake with kiwi and strawberry sauce held our combined attention. I must say. And the service could not have been more warm and competent. Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. Suite 24. 526-1170. Expensive.



Hampton’s Seafood Bar, Market & Grill. pluses include an enthusiastic staff, fresh fish, and generous cocktails. We enjoyed the grilled mahi-mahi in a beurre blanc sauce with baby shrimp, but the tortellini marinara had been sitting too long in the kitchen, and we missed the warm sourdough bread we remembered from the last visit. Berkshire Court, 8411 Preston Rd. 739-3474. Moderate.



SOUTHERN



D REVISITS



Klngsley Country Cafe. This newish enterprise seeks to fill the market niche between Grandy’s and the Black-Eyed Pea-you order at a counter, but a waiter then brings out the food, some of it surprisingly good. The big, delicate, crunchy catfish fillets are winners, and the chicken-fried steak is one of the belter versions around. Our party was divided on the merits of the country grilled pork chops; they had a smoky, intriguing, hard-to-place taste, but were rather chewy in texture. The barbecue tasted as though all its flavor came out of a commercial bottle of sauce, but the portions-in fact, all the portions here-were humongous. Some efforthas gone into the vegetables, but why do all these country-style places think they have to douse their mashed potatoesin enough black pepper to cause a body to get a sneezing fit?Desserts are best skipped over. Skillman at Kingsley.340-0600. Inexpensive. -W.L.T.



Mama Taught Me How. This may not be worth a long trip north to Belt Line, but this storefront luncheonette, staffed by mother and daughters, has its lures for those in the Prestonwood area. Breakfast offers thin, delicate pancakes and homemade cinnamon rolls. Lunch gives us three choices: chicken-fried steak, quiche, and a special of the day. The home-baked pies have tasty fillings. The lemon-meringue is tart with the real juice of the fruit, and the buttermilk has a homey nutmeg twang. But make sure you get a piece freshly baked so the crust won’t have gotten soggy. 14902 Preston Rd, #512 (SE comer of Preston and Belt Line) in Pepper Square. 490-6301. Inexpensive.



Mama’s Daughter’s Diner. The plate lunches we tried were generous models of no-nonsense nostalgia, the chicken-fried cutlet tender in crisp-browned batter with mashed potatoes under perfect cream gravy, all from scratch; the green vegetables-pork-seasoned turnip greens, cheese-whizzed broccoli-overcooked (weren’t they always, back then?); the cole slaw a fresh crunch, cream-dressed and Southern-sweet. Navy beans were actually big white Northerns, but their flavor was fine, and a pot roast’s rich juices almost made me forget 1 prefer my beef rare. Homemade rolls and cornbread would have aced out any dessert less formidable than the lofty meringue pies baked here-coconut cream strewn with golden gratings was more than satisfactory. 2014 Irving Blvd (between Wycliff and Oak Lawn). 742-8646. Inexpensive.



The Mecca. Inside the Mecca, it’s always 1957. This is one old favorite that repays revisiting, whether for breakfast, which features immense omelettes, real-thing hash browns, and swell biscuits, or for lunch, when chicken-fried steak is in order. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.

Rosemarie’s. Rosemarie Hudson never forgets a cus-tomer, and her warmth accounts in pan for the fanatical loyalty this little cafeteria-style operation inspires; the terrific chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, yeast rolls, and peanut butter pie also might have something to do with it. 1411 N Zang. 946-4142- Inexpensive.



Tolbert’s Chill Parlor. Most specialties we tried reflected some care in preparation, and all ingredients seemed fresh and high-quality. The chili labeled Frank’s Original Texas Red wouldn’t win this year’s award at Terlingua, but it’s a respectable, if underseasoned, long-simmered version studded with bite-sized beef cubes. Donkey tails, a pair of cheese-stuffed hot dogs wrapped in flour tortillas and deep-fried, are an inspired Tolbert invention, and the onion-sparked mustard served with them is a robust accent. For my money, though, the burgers are the best bet-the Fredericks-burger, a two-handed stack of cooked-to-order beef, bacon, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickle, and onions, is big enough to qualify as a for-two entrée. 350 N St Paul, Suite 160. 953-1353. 1800 N Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.



STEAKS



Cafe Sport. Main courses offer things as far afield as veal and even fish, but the red meats are the stars. The Sport Cut of prime rib, served with a huge rib bone still attached, was a Lucullan slab of meat, served with tasteless Yorkshire pudding and a vegetable of the day. The chocolate mousse pie was an unusual recipe-a cakey, almost brownie-like bottom and a layer of mousse almost like a topping above it. And the caramel custard was definitive-creamy, smooth, and rich with the taste of burnt sugar. 3227-C McKinney 720-2233. Moderate to expensive.



Del Frisco’s. The best steak you can buy in Dallas-if you can stand beef so laden with cholesterol and if you have the money-is Del Frisco’s ribeye. It’s lush and perfectly aged and likely to be perfectly cooked. Another plus in Del Frisco’s favor is that the side dishes are much tastier than those usually found even in high-priced steakhouses. The shrimp remoulade, the au gratin potatoes, and the rich desserts are all worth ordering. The one drawback is that now Del Frisco’s is more expensive than ever. The prices of the steak haven’t gone up, but now you don’t get a potato unless you pay extra-only marvelously crusty French bread and a salad are included in the basic price. 4330 Lemmon. 526-2101. Expensive.



Huntington Grill. The à la cane appetizers were some of the best dishes we tried here. The seafood bisque was perfectly flavored, the fettuccine with snails sautéed in a cream sauce extremely rich, and the Scottish smoked salmon pristine and satiny. Of the dishes offered “From Our Broiler.” the best was the large, perfectly broiled lobster tail on the steak and lobster tail combination. The tenderloin on that combination, like the hefty twenty-four-ounce T-bone, suffered from a too heavily charred crust. Westin Hotel. Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive to very expensive.



Morton’s of Chicago. The porterhouse steaks are magnificent chunks of beef, and they are likely to be served just as specified. Some of the other dishes are fine, too. The lump crab meat is simplicity itself, perfectly fresh (though with a few too many flecks of shell). The Caesar salad is robust, and the chocolate soufflé for two a fine end to a meal. For those who don’t want beef, the lobsters here are plausibly priced and nicely prepared. Our only complaints on our most recent visit were tasteless hash-brown potatoes and the style of service that recites the menu in rote fashion. 501 Elm. 741-2277. Expensive.



THAI



Thai Lanna. Thai Lanna does all the spicy, tangy Siamese specialties with pizazz, but it has a special way with vegetable dishes, such as eggplant, and noodle dishes. The soups, too, are terrific. The chicken and coconut milk soup, for instance, contains a potpourri of mysterious fresh herbs and aromatic roots-but be careful, because it’s hotter than any Mexican dish you’re likely to get this side of Monterrey. 1490 W Spring valley. 690-3637. Inexpensive.



Thai Soon. Thai Soon was created to demonstrate that a vegetarian and seafood menu can work in an ethnic restaurant. Judging from the waiting lines at this tiny place on Lowest Greenville, the idea appeals to a sizable body of patrons. Almost a dozen vegetarian dishes start out (he main course section of the menu. Some of these are similar to the eggplant delicacies that are among the best things at the original Thai Lanna. Others are based on tofu-the Thai green curry with coconut cream has a knockout flavor, but you may find yourself knocked out by the spiciness of the dish. Almost nothing is bland or even passably neutral in taste at Thai Soon; even dishes cooked without the ubiquitous Thai chiles-like shrimp with garlic sauce and broccoli-come with a spicy dusting of while ground pepper. 2018 Greenville. 821-7666. Inexpensive to moderate.



VIETNAMESE



D REVISITS



Arc-en-Ciel. The French name (which means “rainbow”) points to the former French dominion in Southeast Asia, for this restaurant is mostly interesting because of its Vietnamese cooking, though a large menu of Chinese dishes isalso available. The servers are willing but not able to helpmuch about the terse Vietnamese menu. The Seven Coursesof Beef turned out to contain the best dishes-somehomemade sausages of various shapes and textures that hadbeen grilled to a turn. Most everything on the Vietnameseside of the menu is supposed to be rolled up in rice paperwith julienned vegetables and dipped in a vinegary hotsauce, producing a kind of Southeast Asian taco. 3555 WWalnut at Jupiter, Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.

-W.L.T.



Ba-Le. This is perhaps the tiniest of Dallas’s Vietnamese restaurants. As always at Vietnamese restaurants, real lemonade and killer iced coffee arc the beverages of choice. Two entrées of choice are tenderloin of beef with vermicelli and the Vietnamese crepe, which is more of a frittata, really. 4812 Bryan. Suite 102. 821-1880. Inexpensive.



East Wind. Spring and summer rolls wereextremely mild-flavored, even dipped in the fish sauce (hat accompanied them; the latter’s carrots were threads, not shreds, and needed more of those lethal little red-pepper flecks. A day’s-special roast duck was succulent, but hardly seasoned at all. Charcoal-broiled pork, diced and attractively mounded on a lettuce leaf, was dust-dry; plum sauce, brought only at our request, was too sweet. A mélange of chicken, mushrooms, scallions, and vegetables cooked and served in a hot clay pot had more flavor, thanks more to its ingredients than id seasoning. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Pagode. In the past, I’ve experienced the emperor’s new clothes syndrome in regard to La Ragode. Although I had heard numerous reports of excellence from restaurant-hounds I respect, I had never had a meal thai was bet-ter than average here until I went to lunch with a regular, who simply asked the chef to show us his stuff. The results, most notably a shrimp and shredded cabbage salad with a peanut sauce, were dramatically more distinguished than on my past visits. 4302 Bryan at Peak. 821-4542. Inexpensive to moderate.



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES



Cacharel. This pretty establishment with a glassed-in exhibition kitchen has a fixed price of $10 for lunch and $24 for dinner. The fare-including such Gallic classics as green salad with goat cheese, asparagus soup, scallops with an assertive tarragon sauce, and lamb with a natural-juice sauce-would be worth twice the tariff. Brookhollow Two, 2221 E Lamar, State 910, Arlington. 640-9981. Moderate.



D REVISITS



Moretti’s. Somebody wised us up on this little Kalian restaurant in Grapevine-we would certainly never have found it on our own, tucked into its little shopping strip in a country setting, sitting opposite a gargantuan trailer park. There are real Italians doing the cooking, and the food is as good as we had heard. The luncheon menu is dominated by standard dishes like tortellini in a buttery broth, lasagna with a hearty tomato sauce, and veal marsala with a delicious sauce (though the veal itself was a bit pasty from imprecise sautée-ing). The dinner menu lists more intricate creations, like veal with prosciutto and fresh zucchini and capellini with scallops-we want to return to try them. 2709 Mustang Drive Grapevine. (817) 481-3230. inexpensive to moderate.

-W.L.T.



Tandoor. Tandoor offers a superior assortment of appetizers: minced lamb patties, vegetables fried in chickpea batter, potato/chili panics, turnovers with potatoes and peas, and cheese fritters stuffed with mint chutney. A tomato and: coconut milk soup provided a pleasurable interlude before our main dishes, which were a relative letdown: tough curried lamb, slightly overcooked tandoori chicken, and dull cheese and vegetable dumplings. 532 Fielder North Plaza, south of 1-30, Arlington. 261-6604. Moderate.

Via Real. The appetizers include such novelties as crepa de salmone (thin slices of smoked salmon enfolded in crepes and served dry except for a garnish of pico de gallo) and rellenos de pescado (cylinders of fish mousse studded with salmon and surrounded by a rich sauce). Main courses at Via Real also tilt toward the seafood end. Town North Centre, 3591 N Belt Line at Northgate, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate.



FORT WORTH



Benito’s. This funky little spot on the near South Side of Fort Worth serves some of the best Mexican food in Cowtown. Not Tex-Mex, real Mex. The menu features such uncommon appetizers as sopes, sort of a super-thick soft com tortilla filled with beans, cheese, and green sauce, and chiles en rajas, strips of poblano peppers in cream. Entrées follow suit: tamal oaxaqueno is wrapped in a banana leaf, and the shredded (not ground) beef tacos are fried after they’re filled. Two kinds of molé, red and green, are offered as well as a selection of guisadas. The standards are well done, but this is a place to go exploring. 1450 West Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. inexpensive.



Hedary’s. They say the Lebanese are the French of the Middle East, culinarily speaking; the fare at Hedary’s bears this out. Middle Eastern cuisine is full of strong flavors-mint, onion, and garlic-combined here with finesse that makes them all balance. For a one-visit overview, order the maza, a selection of salads, and a meat combination plate. That way you can sample a little of everything: tabuli (wheat, tomato, and parsley salad), hummus (garlicky puréed chickpeas), savory fried falafel, lentils, cucumbers in yogurt, and a delicious batinjan mtabbal (roasted eggplant dip), along with freshly baked puffed pita bread. The meat plate features homemade sujuk (hot beef sausage), kaffa (ground beef rolls), Lebanese shish kebab, and a version of the national dish of Lebanon, kibbi, that compared favorably with my mother-in-law’s. 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie. (817) 731-696I. Moderate.



St. Emilion. Considering the four-course fixed price of $20 per person, it’s surprising that more Dallasites don’t make the trek to St. Emilion. The last time I did, the results were impressive. A thoughtfully put together salad (leaflet-luce, radicchio, watercress, walnuts, and bits of bacon dressed with walnut oil), textbook lobster bisque, rich spinach cannelloni, and creditable snails in garlic butter made for a great start. Juicy sword fish provencal and nicely roasted duck with cherry sauce were all one could ask for. For dessert, pass on the fluffy, lightweight chocolate mousse and opt for the extraordinary crème caramel. 3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate.



NIGHTLIFE



Amnizia. If you like lots of smoke, Madonna tunes cranked as high as they go, and you’re under the age of twenty-one, then Amnizia could be the stuff your dreams are made of. This hangout has to be one of the smokiest, loudest teenage paradises around. If you’re not of drinking age, they’ll let you come in and strut your young self but they won’t issue you a plastic yellow wristband, the necessary ID that must be shown in order to imbibe. 2829 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 632. 351-1262.



Andrew’s. Why mess around with a successful formula? Andrew’s still features obscure folk singers on the guitar, serves its well-regarded hamburgers, and offers its strong specialty drinks with ridiculous names. Although there are now two Andrew’s locations in Dallas, only the McKinney location offers live music. It’s still a kick to see the yuppie crowd that packs this comfortable nightspot listening to the old Joan Baez tunes. 3301 McKinney 220-0566 14930 Midway. 385-1613.



Barnacles. What a find! This place is comfortable, easygoing in the Lower Greenville manner, bedecked with bits of nautical kitsch. On a balmy evening with the front doors thrown open, it has that “Nawlins” flavor. The huge mural of the Mississippi past and present wins immediate entry into the Dallas Museum of Great Bar Art, where it joins the massive Mardi Gras heads that decorate Fat Tuesday. The . musical fare can be uneven, but there’s no cover charge, so who’s complaining? 1915 Greenville. 826-2623.



Belle Starr. With wave after New Wave of music rolling in yearly, the old country/western culture might be fading. Are you kidding? Belle Starr, packed with a middle-aged boot-kicking crowd, continues to be a huge moneymaker. There are bands every night, urban cowboys everywhere, and women in those tight-fitting jeans that would make any good ol’ boy swoon. There’s also free beer Tuesday through Thursday, which means you’ll have trouble squeezing into the place. 7724 N Central at Southwestern. 750-4787.

Boiler Room. it’s easy to see how this bar got its name: it’s the actual boiler room of the old Sunshine Biscuit Company. However, this has nothing to do with its popularity as a dance club and singles bar close to downtown. Some may feel inhibited dancing in front of the floor-to-ceiling windows next to the dance floor; others won’t want to leave, Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.



Dave’s. Dave’s is casual, friendly, and comfortable-not because of the surroundings, but by virtue of a friendly staff, a casual, eclectic crowd, and great bartenders. No one sits in the uncomfortable metal chairs unless the place is too crowded to sit or stand at the bar. and no one can accuse Dave’s of being pretty, but the attraction’s still there-and the neighborhood crowd loves it. 2812 N Henderson. 826-4544.



Dave & Buster’s. “There’s nothing quite like it” is Dave & Buster’s slogan, and they’re not kidding. The place is enormous, but the brass and dark wood decor adds a degree of sophistication. Head for the umpteen pool tables lining the walls; try shuffleboard, darts, Pente, or backgammon; or just sip a cool one at the large bar on the main floor. 10727 Composite, near Walnut Hill at Stemmons Frwy. 353-0649.



The Den. This dark, warm, intimate bar is located inside the Stoneleigh Terrace Hotel. You never know who you’re going to see here, if anyone at all. It’s the perfect place to meet someone for a quiet conversation. And if they bore you, you can always spend your time trying to figure out whose picture is hanging next to Bob Hope’s. Stoneleigh Terrace Hotel, 2927 Maple Ave. 871-7111.



Empire. At Dallas’s latest club to the beautiful people, everyone wears black, they all look worldly, they don’t all look straight, and they absolutely adore this former dinner theater on the edge of Deep Ellum. The owners call Empire “elegant,” “classical,” “modern,” ’”minimal,” and “international.” and the truth is it’s all these things: the most ornate, fashionable nightclub we’ve ever had. It’s worth an evening just to come look at the fixtures, let alone the people. 2424 Swiss Ave. 828-1879.



500 Café. Everyone likes to think they’re part of the eclectic crowd, but you can find the real thing here-a combination of the city’s intelligentsia, New Wavers, and Deep Ellumites. This little bar near Fair Park offers live entertainment Thursday through Saturday and such unusual delights as poetry readings and short films during the week. 408 Exposition Ave. 821-4623.



Froggy Bottoms. We’d really love this bar if it weren’t so small and so dark. Froggy Bottoms has all the ingredients of being the ideal spot to rendezvous with a long-lost soul mate, and that’s why we’re confused. Here’s a crank-it-up rhythm and blues club with neither the dance floor to go along with the gyrating tunes nor adequate seating for those who want to sit back and enjoy the top-notch talent on stage. But if you don’t mind dancing in a dark corner while juggling your drink, it’s well worth the trip: the R&B played here is truly awesome. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.



Greenville Avenue Bar ft Grill. If Dallas had a Water ing Hole of Fame, this bar would certainly be in it. The kingpin of the Lower Greenville circuit won’t disappoint if you’re looking for a good burger, a longneck beer, and a band that won”) let you hear yourself think. 2821 Greenville. 823-6691.



Joe Miller’s. The more things change, the more they stay the same. That’s certainly true of Joe Miller’s. It’s still one of the best places in town for a real drink, and as always, after work there are plenty of good conversations going on that anyone can enjoy. That is unless you can’t say anything but “Come here often?” or “What’s your sign?” 3531 McKinney. 521-2261.



Judge Beans Restaurant & Cantina. The Judge’s has been making its reputation of late with a “Margarita Mania” special, in which the ’rita prices gradually rise with the hour, from 79 cents at 4 p.m. to 99 cents at 8 p.m. The concept is lethal, but the reality was no bargain for our party, even at the price. We sampled a. uh, good number of the drinks over a couple of hours and found the tequila ratio disgracefully low. At one point even our lightest drinker said she could taste no alcohol in her drink. (Perhaps they want us to leave as sober as a Judge.) Another beef: the restrooms here are straight out of the third world. Some measure of redemption was found in the tasty chicken sandwiches, but on the whole, we’d like to serve a habeas tequilus order to this Judge. 8214 Park Ln. 363-8322.



Knox Street Pub. Here, across the street from such yuppie delights as On the Border and Hoffbrau, is a bar still fighting to be laid back. And what is laid back these days? How about a varied jukebox with rock ’n’ roll. English New Wave, country/western, and Sixties pop? How about terrible restrooms and old pool tables? How about a motley clientele? The pub is a classic neighborhood bar. a vanishing species. 3230 Knox. 526-9476.



Louie’s. The crowd is an odd mix of media and legal types, neighborhood folks, and barflies, but it works. Louie’s has great drinks, cheap prices, good service, and wonderful pizza. What more could one ask for? 1839 N Henderson. 826-0505.



The Palm Bar. If you’re downtown, few places are as nice as this for a drink after work. If you’re not downtown, it’s worth the trip. The decor is elegant but not pompous, the drinks are excellent and reasonably priced, and the service is (lawless. If you work late, beware-this place closes at 8 p.m. Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200.



Prohibition Room. Long regarded as the place in the basement next door to the Starck Club, the Prohibition Room has developed an aura of its own. For one reason, it has begun to regularly draw some of the top local bands, like Robert Lee Kolb. When you enter, you’ll think it’s another pool-and-shuffleboard bar, but when you run out of quarters, go to the back by the stage and listen to an evening’s worth of fine music. 703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-4407.



Sam’s Cafe. Yes, we know Sam’s is a restaurant. Yes. we know the burgers there cost almost $6. Yes, we know it’s the Southwestern sister of Mariel Hemingway’s chic New York bistro. But even if you aren’t planning to eat even one bite, the bar at Sam’s will welcome you with an open tab. A cocktail at Sam’s has now become the thing to do after Sfuzzi and before San Simeon, or before Sfuzzi and after San Simeon, or before San Simeon and Sfuzzi. Get the picture? 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140. 855-2233.



Stan’s Blue Note. The best beer-drinking joint on Lower Greenville, this place has been discovered mostly by the post-SMU crowd. But you’ll still find your quota of eccentrics and plain old barflies who love the shuffleboard and pool tables and the surprisingly lively atmosphere. 2908 Greenville. 824-9653.



Studebakers. I mean, this place is gettin’ old, Johnny! I mean, I’m in there the other night, and (his woman asks for my podiatrist’s phone number! Old, I tell ya! Seriously, folks, while the median age here is on the darker side of forty, this nostalgia bar is still rockin’ with Chuck, Dion, Elv, Bobby, Frankie, more Bobbies, more Frankies, and of course those famous dancing waitresses. The sound track is inching into the Seventies now, having reached the Eagles but stopped, mercifully, short of the Bee Gees. The no-jeans dress code is gone, but the generous happy hour buffet remains, now underwritten by a cover charge on most nights. The bar continues to make a major production of that loathsome classic of cutesy rock, “Hand Jive.” Arghh. But cake heart: at least nobody refers to “Heard it Through the Grapevine” as “the raisin song.” NorthPark East, 8788 N Central Expwy: 696-2475.



Terilli’s. Terilli’s is always packed-with jazz lovers, serious drinkers, people wailing for a table for dinner, and Greenville Avenue wanderers. The bartenders arc friendly; the drinks are on the money; the live jazz on Tuesday through Sunday is great if you can hear it above the roar of the crowd; and you can order Italchos-Terilli’s trademark Italian nachos-until 1 a.m. 2815 Greenville. 827-3993.



Tilt. Tilt is two long rooms lined with, among other things, pinball machines, shoot-the-duck-as-it-bobs-in-the-water games, motorcycles-with-screens-mounted-on-their-dash-that-simulate-obstacle-course games, and games testing marksmanship with a water pistol that could make you the winner of that stuffed Spuds hanging on the top row. Kick back with your favorite libation and enjoy being a kid again. In the West End MarketPlace. 603 Munger. 720-7276.

The Wine Press. This is the perfect place to go on a rainy night-or any time you’re looking for romance, intimacy, and spirits. The Wine Press is decorated with wine bottles from floor to ceiling on almost every wall. The atmosphere is low-key and elegantly casual; the service, friendly but not hovering; the wine selection, extensive-to say the least. 4217 Oak Lawn. 522-8720.



FORT WORTH NIGHTLIFE



Caravan of Dreams. Caravan of Dreams, which coversthree floors of a chic Sundance Square building, has excellent live jazz/blues (and a bar) on the first floor, a theaterwith movies and live drama (and a bar) on the second floor,and an outdoor patio with a cactus garden (and a bar) on theroof. 312 Houston. (817) 877-3000.



The White Elephant Saloon. In 1887. Luke Short, thenthe owner of the White Elephant, shot it out with a formerU.S. marshal Today, the Elephant has country/westernmusic six nights a week and lots of tourists trying desperatelyto learn the two-step on a small dance floor. 106 E Exchange.(817) 624-8273.