D. Michael. (Nouvelle) Dallas has another chic new place serving nouvelle cuisine in the spot on Fairmount (in the McKin-ney/Oak Lawn area) that a string of restaurants has occupied. The look of the place hasn’t changed much-it’s still basically white-on-white, with dark accents provided by the chairs and brighter ones from flowers placed around the two small dining rooms. But the feel of it has changed to something more sophisticated. The food, however, is the element that’s changed most: D. Michael serves some of the most far-out nouvelle dishes in town.
The kitchen’s overly subtle style is hinted at by the menu, which is printed in a blue-gray so light and in letters so delicate that it’s almost illegible in the dim lights (which get even dimmer when the air conditioner switches on or off). Not all the recipes sound as bizarre as the “breast of moulard duck with candied jalapenos, served with cassis sauce,” but most of them are pretty recherché, despite their descriptions.
Among the five “Appetizers Served Cold,” for instance, is a combination of rabbit terrine in rosemary aspic, moulard duck pate and duck liver mousse with Armagnac. The menu description doesn’t prepare you for the assertiveness of the tastes. The mousse has a very strong liver flavor and is so loaded with brandy that you don’t want to get close to a match too soon after you’ve eaten it. The terrine smacks too heavily of rosemary, and its textures are alarming: all fat and gelatin and cottony meat.
That appetizer is the least pleasing of the offerings we’ve tried at D. Michael, but even some of those that show a lot more skill (in addition to the ever-fanciful imagination of the chef) are somehow unsatisfying. The ragout of bobwhite quail, rabbit and squab (a hot appetizer) and the main course of quail, served with a delicious sweet potato and raisin gratin, both feature fowl that is succulently cooked, but the sauces do little to enhance the flavors of the meat. That’s the general complaint here-wonderful meat, blah sauces-with the primary exception being the Pacific king salmon roasted with thyme, tarragon and fennel. Its Pinot Noir butter sauce is rich and heavenly, and it shows what the kitchen can do when it dares to counter the nouvelle doctrine that less is more and concentrates more flavor and body into all of its sauces.
The other big winner is the chilled avocado and shrimp soup, served with a dollop of cream that’s flavored with cilantro and tomato. The salads, though, are too large and dressed with too much fancy vinegar. Even the desserts suffer a bit from nouvelle pretension. The presentation of five daintily colorful scoops of sorbet on a single dish is lovely, but who needs three melon ices (honeydew, cantaloupe and watermelon) in a single serving-especially if the other two are mango and blackberry? The cold souffle of lemon and praline tasted bright and tart, but there were curious little shreds of paper in our serving. We hope that was a fluke caused by the newness of the restaurant. We hope that the quality of the service was, too: Our waiters never could seem to get our orders straight, and we were almost the only people in the dining room. D. Michael is a restaurant that we hope will improve with a bit of experience. It’s a place that’s very easy to respect, since so much of the cooking is done with such skill. We hope it will become easier to sit back and enjoy it. (2917 Fairmount. 871-0123. Lunch: Tue-Fri11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10. ClosedSun. All credit cards. $$$) 6.0
The Brussels. (Belgian) We don’t know of a less pretentious place in the Metroplex offering authentically European food than this Arlington restaurant, and, as for as we know, it’s the only one that claims to offer Belgian cuisine. We certainly don’t know any place where you can get a meat course and three vegetables for as little as $4.25-that’s all the broiled chicken will set you back, and even the waterzooi (poached chicken in a creamy, egg-enriched sauce with vegetables) is less than $6. The beef and fish entrees are higher but are still a good bargain. We enjoyed the sole in Normande sauce, the garlicky sau-téed shrimp and the steak with mushroom sauce (which was cooked precisely to order).
All the main courses come with appropriate vegetables. We liked the typically Belgian fries the best and the scalloped mounds of mashed potatoes the least (too dry and too highly flavored with nutmeg). Salads are Americanized, including the overpriced one that has a bit of Belgian endive thrown in. But the desserts are fine: crepes, Belgian waffles with whipped cream and fresh strawberries, and La Dame Blanche-a sundae with a rich, bittersweet sauce made of real Belgian chocolate.
The decor at the Brussels is as unpretentious as the plastic-coated menu. The table linens are in the Belgian colors of red, black and yellow, and there’s a huge European circus organ that looks darling but can be deafening if cranked up. The noise, in fact, is one of the primary drawbacks here. The piped-in music and the manner of the serving staff makes you think you’ve wandered into a Bennigan’s by mistake. We wish this would be corrected, because the food here is good, if never extraordinary, and there is a nice, short selection of wines and unusual Belgian beers. Since even children are made to feel welcome (there are child’s plates and American dishes), the Brussels is a useful new place in the environs of Arlington Stadium and Six Flags. (1300 Copeland near the I-30/Hwy. 157 interchange, Arlington. (817) 861-4488. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-11 p.m., Sat & Sun 5-11 p. m. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Shrimper’s Seafood Café. (Seafood) Dallas has many new seafood restaurants, but Shrimper’s (in the White Rock area) appears more than able to hold its own among the less pretentious places. A basket of homemade potato chips and some creamy shrimp dip were set on the table as we arrived, and these addictive munchies set the pace for some very good food. The oysters on the half shell were small and sweet and very cold, the boiled shrimp tasty, the shrimp salad not too gooey. Among our appetizers, only the gumbo failed to please (too thick for our Cajun tastes).
All the fried seafood we sampled was excellent, especially the oysters. The barbecued shrimp wasn’t very close to the way it is Fixed in New Orleans, but the smoky sauce with a strong rosemary taste was good enough on its own terms. Of the two broiled fish we tried, the better by far was the scrod (baby cod), which was flaky and juicy. The red snapper had a bit of an off taste. All the main courses were accompanied by a not-too-sweet slaw, and some were served with a delicious florentine rice, richly speckled with bits of spinach.
We tried the bread pudding with brandy sauce for dessert and found it agreeable. Our waiter, in his shrimp-colored shirt that matched the walls of the restaurant, was having trouble getting the busboy to bring water to us, but he worked hard to make up for the deficiencies. The fern-bar ambiance is hardly original, but it’s pleasant enough. (4040 Abrams. 827-5955. Sun-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 11-11. V, AE, DC. $$) 5.0
Chuck’s Old-Fashioned Hamburgers. (Burgers) The key word here is “old-fashioned.” This Far North Dallas eatery doesn’t serve those newfangled burgers that are as big as your fist. Instead, it offers good versions of the near-obsolete kind that have thinnish (though still one-third pound) patties and arrive, unless you specify otherwise, with the once-classical trimmings of mustard, onion, pickles, lettuce and tomatoes. If you prefer, you can also get a good hickory sauce or chili (although we weren’t impressed with the way the chili tasted when it was served on top of the other standard trimmings). What really makes these hamburgers good, though, is the grilled buns. Hardly anybody knows how to do that anymore, and it’s the secret of the difference between okay and heavenly hamburgers.
Otherwise, you can get grilled hot dogs, fried strips of chicken breast and long, soft, slightly greasy french fries. To accompany them, you can get shakes, malts and-if you buy a membership-beer. The only desserts are ordinary but satisfactory brownies. The menu (except for the hot dogs and beer) puts Chuck’s in obvious competition with the fast-food emporiums. We don’t know how many parents will be willing to drag thei rkids kicking and screaming into a place where Ronald doesn’t do advertisements and no playground is attached, especially when Chuck’s burgers cost twice what Ronald’s do. But they ought to try at least once, so the kiddies can learn what a real, old-fashioned, fresh-cooked burger on a grilled bun tastes like-before it’s too late and they disappear forever. (502 Spanish Village Shopping Center, Arapaho at Coit. 386-7752. Sun-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m, Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. $) 4.5
Café Italia. (Northern Italian) Dallas’ neighborhood restaurant finds run mostly to barbecue, Tex-Mex and the now-ubiquitous Chinese places. The less pretentious Italian places, even when they’re good, are mostly of the Southern Italian variety, with lots of tomato sauces. That’s why Café Italia (in the Market Center area) ranks as a valuable newcomer. It’s way down on the unfashionable end of Maple Avenue, almost out to Love Field, and it’s strictly an unpretentious storefront operation, although there are some nice decorative touches in the apricot-colored tablecloths and the white chairs. But the menu mainly carries Northern Italian dishes, and they’re priced at the low end of the local scale for this sort of thing, especially at dinner. The service is homey rather than briskly efficient, which matches the relaxed, informal feeling of the restaurant.
Although the kitchen doesn’t make its own pasta, it cooks its noodle dishes so well that we think they are the best bets here. The linguini pescatore, flavored with shrimp, clams and scallops (and plenty of garlic, of course) was among the tastiest of such recipes in town. The fettuccine Alfredo, the tortellini and the manicotti were also quite acceptable versions.
The veal and chicken dishes are good without knocking one’s socks off. They all seem to consist of three or four small, pounded medallions of meat breaded lightly with egg and sautéed, then topped with the sauce of one’s choice. The Marsala sauce on the veal seemed the best choice, although the veal florentine (with spinach) was tasty.
Café Italia offers one fish specialty per day. We tried a red snapper filet with a topping of tomatoes, onions and peppers that needed more seasoning to give it some interest, though it was fresh-tasting and had a nice texture. The meat dishes come with a serving of linguini and a vegetable-the fresh peas and carrots, for instance, were extremely tasty.
Desserts are attractive at Cafe Italia. Although most of them are obviously supplied from outside, care has been taken to get good products. The cheesecake has a thick layer of sour cream across the top, and we couldn’t get enough of it. The cappuccino pie and the spumoni have plenty of flavor, and the cannoli, which is filled with a pastry cream made in-house, can be excellent. (5000 Maple. 521-0700. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. $$) 4.5
Knox Street Oyster Garage. (Seafood) Under the same ownership as (and sharing a kitchen with) Hoffbrau, Knox Street Oyster Garage goes for a sleeker crowd and fills up late in the evening with folks listening to the singer at the grand piano in the corner. The motif is black-on-white everything, except for a floor-to-ceiling bar filled with glistening bottles and a single flower at every table. There is some attempt to make use of the garage idea in the restaurant’s name- oysters on the half shell are served on a hubcap and pictures of cars are on the walls- but not so heavily as to make this a corny theme place.
The setting, in fact, is fine. It’s the food that disappoints. You’d think that boiled shrimp would be an easy thing to get right, but in fact hardly anybody does: Knox Street Oyster Garage, lamentably, is no exception. The peel-’em-yourself shrimp have little taste other than salt and can be chewy to the point of toughness. More elaborate things don’t come off any better. The kitchen fries shellfish only-shrimp, scallops and oysters -and only the oysters have much interest. Of the house specialties, the waitress told us that the scallops with fresh mint were the best. We hope she was wrong, because the scallops were tough and fishy, and the sauce (composed of lots of fresh mint, tomatoes and onions) was unpleasant-tasting. We tried the red snapper, which was steamed and covered with a béarnaise sauce. It was competently cooked, but both fish and sauce were bland.
There are a few things at the Knox Street Oyster Garage that are so appealing that we don’t want to write the place off altogether. The house salad is an interesting melange of good greens, tomatoes, peeled grapefruit and shrimp; it comes with a rather sweet paprika-and-garlic-spiked dressing and a sprinkling of blue cheese if you desire. The desserts, on the whole, are better than average for a seafood house, with a fine apple pie with hot brandy sauce and ice cream leading the list. The worldly insouciance of theplace is tempered by a pleasant serving staff, so we will continue to keep our eye on the Oyster Garage, hoping that some new oceangoing mechanic will tinker around in the kitchen and get things running a little more swimmingly. (3201 Knox. 522-0842.Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 a. m.-midnight,Sun noon-3 p.m. & 5-10 p.m. All creditcards. $$) 4.0
D’s revised dining listings have been categorized according to geographical locations, beginning with downtown Dallas and radiating outward to the suburbs.
For restaurants that have more than one location, the review is listed under the original location’s listing. All branch locations are listed with their respective addresses and are cross-referenced for your convenience.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate a general price range.
$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range. $$$ Expensive. Expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal for one (excluding wine and cocktails).
$$$$ Very expensive.
“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will accept reservations.
Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
Restaurants have been rated on a 1 to 10 scale, with a rating of 10 being the highest recommendation. Restaurants receiving a rating of 7.5 and above have been designated with a bold D.
DOWNTOWN/WEST END
Charcuterie. (Lunch) Sanger Harris does an uncommonly good job with their in-house eatery. The croissants are warm and flaky, and if you’re into salads of any persuasion, they’re bound to serve them here. The onion-mushroom soup deliciously offers the best of two favorites. The sandwich offerings are intriguing; the chicken breast with cheese on a croissant was particularly good. (Sanger Harris, 303 N Akard. 749-3990. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3. AE, Sanger Harris charge. $$) 5.0
D REVISITS
D Café Royal. (French/Continental) This excellent restaurant seems to be struggling to find its niche in the hierarchy of Dallas’ French kitchens. The latest gimmick is what Café Royal calls its menu de degustation – which usually means a multicourse sampling of the chefs specialties. Here it’s really just a prix fixe dinner in which the diner has few choices, but it may be more of a bargain than ordering a la carte. And the chef seems to give more attention to it, so the food may be better than items ordered randomly off the menu. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$) 8.0
Ferrari’s. (Italian) Certainly the most confusing Italian restaurant in town, this new spot can seem wonderful and dismal on consecutive visits. Go for the appetizers and the snapper cooked in an ivory sauce. The pasta dishes are inconsistent, but they can be very fine. We wonder why the salads have to be comprised solely of iceberg lettuce – if this is a trend, we hope it doesn’t catch on. (1713 Market. 741-5538. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC,V,AE.$$$) 7.0
D The French Room. (French Nouvelle) With its heavy rose-colored draperies and gilt trim, this is the most formal dining room in Dallas. And it’s still probably the best kitchen, too. Few restaurants combine dependability and excitement so well. We loved everything about our last meal here, from the lovely salad with goat cheese to the feuillete of berries surrounded with hot caramel sauce. But be forewarned: If you go in for the likes of the lobster or the pastry stuffed with a whole truffle, your meal will be the most expensive in the city, as well as the most elaborate. (Adolpfrus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$ 9.0
Pacific Express. (Nouvelle Lunch) New downtown restaurants are popping up as fast as skyscrapers; one of the nicest is Pacific Express, next door to the Majestic Theatre. You’ll never eat in a fancier place where you have to carry your own food on a tray. The food might be characterized as “New Wave tearoom.” You’ll find salads and sandwiches and desserts, plus suitable accompaniments such as fresh-squeezed orange juice and several vintages of wine available by the glass The meat in the chicken salad has been smoked, and it’s coated with shallot-vermouth mayonnaise. Fresh pasta salad comes with peas, cherry tomatoes, goat cheese and pesto sauce. (1910 Pacific, Suite 103. 969-7447. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2. No credit cards. $$) 6.0
Richard’s Café Americain. (Lunch) If you’re the type of person who favors light lunchtime fare, replete with colorful pates, spiced tea, tiny muffins with strawberry butter and inventive variations on salad and sandwich themes – in short, if the word “dainty” is for you an appealing adjective – then climb high atop the Manor House to this cozy little tearoom in the sky. It’s brightly adorned with pleasing pastel colors and original art works, and the service is both competent and attentive. A pianist adds spice to the melange in the afternoons. (Manor House, 1222 Commerce, 25th floor. 761-0143. Lunch: daily 11 -2:30; tea: daily 3-5; happy hour: Mon-Fri 5-9; Sun brunch: 11-3:30. MC, V, AE, DC. $) 5.0
Tangerine. (Chinese) This informally elegant new Chinese restaurant is one of the best restaurants downtown. Beautiful porcelain figures and dark orange accents lend a festive air to the high-windowed rooms with their dramatic views of the new skyscrapers in the neighborhood. The food is excellent, too – one senses a definite desire to avoid cliche. For now, however, Tangerine is open only for lunch. (2401 Ross. 969-1011. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm. MC, V, DC. $) 6.0
MCKINNEY/OAK LAWN
The Bronx. (Eclectic) After our recent meal here, we’re ready to hand out “Honk if you love the Bronx” bumper stickers. Everything, from start (chunky, lemony gua-camole with crisp tostadas) to finish (a not-too-sweet but creamy amaretto cheesecake) was a delight. The menu is not expansive, to say the least: Variations on the omelette theme are the mainstays. But the omelettes, sautéed in butter, are fluffy and filling, and they come with various side dishes, such as bagels or Italian sausage (try one with a glass of delicious spiced iced tea). The wooden booths lining the walls make intimate conversations easy; the service is prompt and efficient. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-3: dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30 pm-12:30 am, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1:30 am; Sun brunch: 11-3. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.0
D REVISITS
Adriano’s. (Italian) The delights of salmon-and-goat-cheese pizza don’t seem to have caught on in Dallas the way they have in Los Angeles, Can it be that we’re obtuse here, or just more sensible? But even if you don’t go for Adriano’s more exotic offerings, you can enjoy pizza with pancetta (an Italian version of bacon), crispy brown roast chicken or any of a number of other not-too-trendy items. The rich chocolate ice cream is a good follow-up. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 871-2262. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11pm. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$) 6.5
Caté Rincón. (Mexican) If you stick to the best dishes here, you can get a sensational meal served on the shady patio. Cafe Rincon serves the tenderest, most buttery-tasting beef in town in its Mexican steak dishes and alambres (shish kebab). The red snapper is always impeccably fresh and can be ordered with a picante veracruzana sauce of peppers, onions and tomatoes or with mole de ajo, a strong garlic butter. The service is warm and efficient beyond compare-we don’t know of a friendlier restaurant. (2816 Harry Hines. 742-4906. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11 -11, Sat noon-midnight. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$) 6.5
D REVISITS
D Calluaud. (French) After a rather disappointing lunch not long ago, we went back to Dallas’ establishment French restaurant. We’re happy to report that all was well. The appetizers showed that owner-chef Guy Calluaud is willing to buck French tradition if a good idea comes to him: Where in the old country can you find a refined version of ceviche cloaked under the description “marinated seafood salad”? Our main courses – which is where we had problems the last time – were back on track, with perfectly cooked scallops and sweetbreads, both of which had just the right touch of garlic. We also detected a local influence in one of the luscious desserts – or do they really make lemon tarts with fluffy meringue tops in la belle France? (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0
Chiquita. (Mexican) This has been one of Dallas’ dining treasures for a long time. It was the first of the fancier restaurants serving more authentic specialties along with Tex-Mex plates, and it may still be the best. The standard line about this place is that the specialties are better than the Tex-Mex dishes, but on our last visit, the basic enchiladas and tacos were well above average. The fajitas were rather odd (no sizzle and little flavor), but we enioyed the steak studded with garlic and peppers and accompanied by a soft taco and a roasted potato as much as ever. (3810 Congress. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.5
D REVISITS
Ciao! (Italian) Although pink neon, a checkerboard-tiled floor and a gallery of black-and-white photographs speckled with colored glitter beckoned us inside, the real welcome at Ciao was its carefully prepared (and amply proportioned) Italian offerings. We started ciaoing down on a salad that was topped with mounds of Parmesan and freshly ground pepper and was accompanied with a complimentary loaf of hot, crusty bread. We also tried an appetizer of fettuccine, rich and creamy with spicy bits of bacon, and a gourmet pizza adorned with spinach sautéed in garlic butter and pimentos. Stuffed but not daunted, we ended our feast with a piece of nutty, spicy Italian Wedding Cake-truly a marriage made in heaven. (3921 Cedar Springs.521-0110. Mon-Sat noon-midnight, Sun 5 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.0
Crackers. (Greek/Eclectic) Greek food is the specialty at this 81 -year old house on McKinney Avenue, but you’ll also find quiche, burgers, sandwiches, soups and assorted entrees such as steak and fish. Both the moussaka and souflaki are fine, while the spanokopita (a flaky phyllo pastry filled with spinach and feta cheese) is exciting but very rich. Soups are usually good, and the large Greek salad is wonderful. The patio and balcony make Crackers ideal for sunny luncheons. (2621 McKinney. 827-1660. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11-3, Sun 11-5; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. MC, V. AE, DC. $$) 5.5
Cremona. (Northern Italian) Tucked away on a side street off Cedar Springs, Cremona is a restaurant with no pretensions. A typical luncheon menu might offer one appetizer (sautéed mushrooms with garlic), a wide choice of pastas and a single lackluster chicken dish. Among the pastas, the tortellini was delicate and rich, the lasagna good but unprepossessing. Although we don’t usually like flavored cheesecake, the one with amaretto is a fine end to a meal. In nice weather, Cremona’s sunny patio is a pleasant place to dine. (2600 Woodrow between Cedar Springs and Routh. 742-4330. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Fuddrucker’s. (Burgers) Fuddrucker’s lives up to its boast of presenting the “world”s greatest hamburgers.” The home-baked buns are grilled to perfection, and the meat is tender and juicy. The other sandwiches may be even better – the steak sandwich is a sizable rib-eye, the hot dogs come with two lengthy links, and there are both white and red sausages for wurst fans. All these can be fixed up to the individual’s taste at bars bursting with onions, tomatoes and pickles. Avoid the desserts at the bakery counter: Both kinds of cookies and the brownies are tasteless and overpriced. (2614 McKin-ney. 871-2068. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri&Sat 11 am-11:30 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V,AE.$) 6.0
D Jennivine. (Continental) Heavens! Jennivine, once a bastion of excellent, rather down-home British-style cooking, has gone nouvelle on us! No more simply broiled fish, no more bowls of delicious mashed potatoes and home-style carrots. Now, poached salmon comes with an arty sauce and a spray of underdone vegetables on the side. You can also find the likes of quail with passion-fruit sauce. The food, mind you, is still excellent – and, given the level of the cooking, is actually underpriced. But we confess that we do miss the old style a bit, since nearly every other place in town is going the chichi nouvelle route. At least we can content ourselves with the extraordinary plates of patés and cheeses – they’re just like the Jennivine of old. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$) 7.5
D REVISITS
Jozef’s. (Seafood) This pleasant seafood restaurant, with its small dining room and rough wood walls, is warm yet elegant. We began our meal with fresh, chilled oysters on the half shell and ceviche, a tangy, fresh combination of fish, onion, tomato, green pepper and cilantro in a lime-juice marinade. Our entrees, however, drew mixed responses. The scallops in cream sauce had a wonderful flavor, but they were rather tough. And the Maine lobster, likewise, was sweet in flavor but chewy in texture. But the chocolate mousse cake (which we swear looked exactly like pie) was a sweet ending to the meal. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) See Stemmons/Bachman Lake. 5.5
D L’Ambiance. (French Nouvelle) We love this place so much that we’re even becoming convinced it has atmosphere. Maybe it’s the talented guitarist who plays during dinner that compensates for the crowded tables. But it’s the food that has us hooked, although on our last visit, the appetizer of noodles in a basil and tomato sauce disappointed us by being overcooked and flavorless. But it was clear sailing from there: The thin slices of poached salmon in a rich green sauce, the crisp sliced duckling in raspberry sauce and the sautéed striped bass were without flaw. Don’t skip the salad or the desserts here; the watercress with bacon and goat cheese, the Concord cake of chocolate and meringue, and the Floating Island are all great. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 8.0
D La Vieille Varsovie (The Old Warsaw). (French/Continental) This grand old place is a Dallas tradition, with its violinist and pianist and its flamingoes on the walls. Our last meal was a trifle disappointing – the pastry in our salmon feuillete was tough, for instance – but there’s no doubt that standards are higher here than they were a few years ago. The ornate salads and the dessert soufflés are consistently satisfying. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required.All credit cards. $$$$) 8.0
Les Saisons. (Country French) This is a lovely place for lunch or dinner, although the building going on outside has taken some of the charm away from the view from the dining rooms. The standard bistro menu is executed with aplomb, and you can find all the old favorites, from pate to chocolate mousse. Ordering a steak will get you exquisite french fries as accompaniments. (Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn, Suite 165. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11.30 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5
Lucas’ B & B. (American) Our previous reviews of this Oak Lawn institution were more than glowing, but our last visit was disappointing. It occurred to us that regardless of how charmed we are by beehive hairdos and orange vinyl booths, $4.55 is pretty steep for two eggs, a patty of sausage, two biscuits and coffee with one warm-up – especially since our Saturday morning service was slow and careless. Lucas’ may be an endearingly Texan place to take visitors from out of town, but for the working man’s breakfast, we’ll opt for Bubba’s. (3520 Oak Lawn. 526-8525. Daily 24 hours, except 1:45-3 pm. MC, V. $) 2.5
D The Mansion on Turtle Creek. (American Nouvelle) The miracle in the kitchen here continues on apace – and of course, this has always been one of the grandest-looking restaurants in town. Most of the menu is now nouvelle to the point of overkill. On our last visit, we marveled over an appetizer of red shrimp, a salad of smoked tuna and a side dish of grilled asparagus. Even old favorites such as green pasta with medallions of lobster had a wonderful new taste; for once, the shellfish was tender and the pasta al dente. We also found that the service was more pleasant than before, although we still hear complaints that it can be haughty and sullen. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room (jackets and ties required, except at brunch) – lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch: Sat noon-2, Sun 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Promenade Room – breakfast: daily 7-10:30 am; lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0
D REVISITS
Mexico. (Mexican) The cooking here has really come together since a rather shaky period after the opening. Now the conejo borracho (“drunk rabbit,” marinated in tequila and then grilled) is juicy, with a wonderful tang added by the alcohol. The chicken chimichangas top any in our experience, with a light, flaky crust that reminds us of a good French pastry. Both the unusual dishes (such as the vegetarian enchiladas) and the standard Tex-Mex items seemed well thought out and consistently prepared. Since the eclectic decor, with flying angels and strings of chili-pepper lightbulbs, has always been an attraction here, that leaves only the service to be worked on; it was friendly but slow and slack on our last visit. (2911 Routh. 760-8639. Tue-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat & Sun 11:30-11.30. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.0
Maple Street East. (Continental) The star that has been shining on this renovated manse near downtown has dimmed somewhat since we heralded its beginnings almost two years ago. Maple Street East is still a lovely place to dine – if you don’t get stuck in an empty room. But the food is spotty, and we can’t quite figure out why. On a recent visit, a starter spinach salad was close to perfect, while the fettuccine Alfredo fell limp and mushy in a deluge of sauce. Our grilled lamb chops were skimpy and charred, but a butterflied filet sauced in red wine was hearty and satisfying. Fresh asparagus – the exquisite skinny variety – was cooked crisp-tender, then covered in a hollandaise that was a watery mess. Desserts were the saving grace, especially an unusual but good blueberry tart. (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30,Fri & Sat 6-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$$) 5.0
Rocco Oyster Bar. (Seafood) Are we just getting blasé, or is the high-tech look getting a bit dated? We find that the lower, patiolike room at Rocco is nicer to look at than the chic starkness of the main room. Luckily, the food holds up better than the decor. We like having a choice among oyster varieties, and the crab meat cocktail is generous in size, though pricey. Both broiled fish entrees we tried – redfish and salmon – were done to a turn. Desserts are mostly ice-cream pies from Bas-kin-Robbins – again, pleasant but rather overpriced. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Sun-Wed 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-midnght. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5
D Routh Street Café. (American Nouvelle) This is the hardest restaurant at which to get a reservation in town and perhaps the finest as well. The new American cuisine delivers exquisite preparations of every dish, starting with the muffins – flavored perhaps with squash or hickory nuts – that begin the meal. Among the choice things on the menu, which changes daily, are the flaky tart filled with wild mushrooms, the game dishes (wild boar was divine – unexpectedly mild and tender), the unusual sorbets and ices and the rich, rich desserts. The wine list, printed by a computer daily, contains only American vintages – too bad if you had your heart set on a French grand cru to accompany the wonderful food. (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Lounge: Mon-Fri 4:30 pm-1:30 am, Sat 6 pm-1.30 am. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0
KNOX/HENDERSON
D Exposure. (Continental) The proprietors here will give you a friendly welcome even if you aren’t among the beautiful people who make up the regular clientele. Chef Bruce Auden’s food is wonderful – he recently added duck to the nightly menu – and can be had most reasonably on the special pre-theater prix fixe dinner or on the late-night breakfasts. The prix fixe meal includes marvelously original soups, zestful salads, almost any main course on the menu, dessert and coffee. But to get one of Auden’s innovative appetizers, you have to order a la carte. (4516 McKinney. 528-0210. Mon-Sat 4 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 8.5
Highland Park Cafeteria. (Southern) Everybody in Dallas knows about the great home-style cooking at Highland Park Cafeteria, but not everyone has heard about the lavish buffet sometimes offered upstairs. We used to think of it as a clever and sybaritic way of avoiding the crowded lines in the regular cafeteria – but the price ($9 for adults, $4 for children) means that you can’t quite take the alternative lightly. Go when you’re really hungry and can eat a mountain of the salads, fried chicken, brisket, fresh broccoli and squash casserole, rolls and the always-tempting desserts – meringue, apple and rhubarb pies, multilayered cakes and the like. We stuck to one dessert apiece and thought ourselves impossibly virtuous. (4611 Cole. 526-3801. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sun. No liquor. No credit cards. $) See Addison/Richardson/Far North Dallas. 6.0
Hoffbrau. (Steak) If what you want is a thick, juicy slab of beef without a lot of unnecessary frills, head for Hoffbrau. You won’t find any pseudo-English pub atmosphere here; the decor can only be loosely described as “fun Texas funk.” And there’s not a lot of choice about what will accompany your steak (a salad and potatoes come with each entree; there’s only one salad dressing offered, and the chunky potato slices are pan-fried). but it doesn’t really matter. Everything we tried was good, especially the steaks. The service was efficient, and gold stars must be given to the busboys in particular: Friendly and sharp-eyed, they were poetry in motion. A hint: Go early to escape the inevitable wait. (3205 Knox. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
D REVISITS
On the Border. (Mexican) On the weekends, it seems as though everyone in town is trying to crowd into this “South Texas Cafe,” as it bills itself. And no wonder, since this place may serve the best fajitas around. The sizzling strips of beef (or chicken, if you prefer) are meaty, tender and not overly marinated, as they sometimes are elsewhere. The grilled whole chicken breasts come from the kitchen golden from the smoke. And the praline cheesecake makes a sweet ending. (3300 Knox. 528-5900. Mon-Thur & Sun 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$) See Las Colinas/Mid-Cities. 5.5
MARKET CENTER
Gonzalez. (Tex-Mex) For a fried-chicken stop gone Tex-Mex, Gonzalez does a reliable job, though never an outstanding one. Both in atmosphere and in spice, the word is bland. The nachos we tried were nothing but store-bought tortilla chips with cheese and scant peppers, and they arrived simultaneously with our entrees. And the margarita we ordered was too sweet to finish. But the meal was quick, and the place was clean. We prefer a mediocre chile relleno to the unknown chicken any day. (4333 Maple. 528-2960. Daily 7 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Mistral. (French/Japanese) A huge screen displays Duran Duran videos, and neon abounds (we counted seven shades of red and blue in the ceiling decoration alone) in this disco/restaurant. How many $45 per person prix fixe dinners have you eaten while seated on plastic-upholstered banquettes, looking at statues of swans lighted by rose-colored spotlights and being served by a hunk dressed punk-style with single diamond stud piercing his left ear? The food is excellent without being extraordinary-rather far-out nouvelle with even more Asian influences than usual in the style (the chef was born in Japan and trained in Europe – he once cooked at Buckingham Palace), We found the service, though earnest, to be a trifle gauche. (Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 760-9000. Tue-Sat 7-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$$) 6.5
Plum Blossom. (Chinese) The simplicity of the surroundings here bespeaks elegance, and the careful service contributes to the peaceful atmosphere as well. The menu offers a choice among elaborate set dinners that range from $20 to $27.50 (with a smattering of a la carte offerings). We splurged on the most expensive and were served delicious scallops in a potato nest, a Chrysanthemum Firepot (a tureen of rich broth in which all kinds of meat and vegetables cook), Peking duck and other treasures. The meal was satisfying, except for the chicken and banana roll in a sweet-and-sour sauce (which tasted as unappetizing as it sounds) and the lychee sherbet. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun, Reservations required. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5
Ray’s Blue Note. (American Nouvelle) This place now serves Texas nouvelle cuisine, and the new menu concentrates on mesquite-grilled red meats and a bit of seafood. Everything is served with fantastic attention to visual detail, with garnishes such as flowers or baskets carved out of tomatoes and flavorful relishes made of sweet and hot peppers. The steak and pork chop were delicious with their crusty, seared surfaces. The sausages (which include some venison) are both robust and excellent. The apricot-and-apple is actually sweeter than either of the dessert specialties: an odd, grainy rice pudding and a weird serving of vanilla ice cream with “spiced” fresh fruit – “spiced” in this instance meaning peppery-hot. The neighborhood is rundown enough to discourage some diners. (5490 Denton Cutoff.631-6199. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Fri & Sat6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$) 4.5
Rosita’s. (Tex-Mex) Rosita’s sits on the edge of the Maple Avenue Hispanic district, both geographically and metaphorically. The neighborhood patrons and the North Dallas tourists, with a full spectrum of Dallasites in between, make up a thoroughly eclectic crowd. This restaurant’s universal appeal comes from its longstanding success at producing simple, well-prepared Tex-Mex standards, served by an efficient and courteous staff for a reasonable price. The atmosphere is that of a south-of-the-border bar in a Grade-B Western, and pictures of such infamous outlaws as Pancho Villa, Geronimo and Willie Nelson make you feel obliged to order a bottle of mescal (or something equally revolutionary) from the fully stocked cantina. This is a great place for Texans to get their weekly taco/enchilada fix. (4906 Maple. 521-4/41. Tue-Fri 7 am-10 pm,Sat & Sun 9 am-10 pm, Mon 7 am-2:30 pm, MC, V, AE. $) 5.0
D REVISITS
Siam Orchid. (Thai) Under its new management and name, this place continues to turn out excellent Thai food. We don! seem to be able to eat here without ordering our old favorites-pork sate, spring rolls and the intriguing noodle dish called pud Thai – but there are plenty of dishes on the menu to reward a bit of exploration. The beef with lime leaves in a spicy sauce, for instance, offers a truly novel flavor for the adventurous. And you have to feel adventurous even to venture into the Siam Orchid, which is situated among adult bookstores and theaters. Inside, however, the polite staff makes everyone feel comfortable. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11 am-2:30 pm&5-10 pm, Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-11 pm, Sat & Sun noon-11 pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.0
Sonny Bryan’s. (Barbecue) Lordy, can these folks cook barbecue! The brisket is tender and juicy, with a crisp crust that is the essence of woodsmoke; the ribs are perfection. It’s of little consequence, we suppose, that the side dishes are nothing to speak of and that the hubbub and housekeeping are insufferable. If such things really bother you, you can do as many others do and order to go. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 8 am-5 pm, Sat 8 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $) 6.5
OAK CLIFF/DUNCANVILLE
Hondo’s. (Texana) Although the sign on top of the restaurant says “Real Texas Burgers,” the boasting at Hondo’s is over its chicken-fried steak, which it claims is the best anywhere. Unfortunately, this Texas-sized boast falls short of the mark. The meat was tender, but the batter was bland, and the gravy was tasteless. The steak was more like a TV dinner than anything even remotely resembling homemade. But the surroundings are typically Texan, with old bottles, rusty horseshoes and weathered lumber creating a thoroughly rustic look. It’s too bad the food couldn’t have been as authentic. (Wheatland Plaza, 450 E Wheatland, Duncanville. 298-0873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3, Sat 11-4; dinner: Mon-Thur & Sat 5-8, Fri 5-9. Closed Sun, MC, V,AE.$) 4.0
La Calle Doce. (Mexican) This comfortable Oak Cliff restaurant serves excellent Tex-Mex food as well as a wide range of more authentic specialties. We’ve had the best luck when we’ve ordered beef dishes. The carnitas tampiquenas, though uncharacteristically cooked with soy sauce, are delicious, as is the stewlike guiso. The accompanying beans, rice and flour tortillas are memorable, too. Our only big disappointment was a slightly fishy-tasting snapper Veracruzana. (415 12th St. 941-4304. Mon-Thur11 am-9:30 pm, Fri 11 am-10:30 pm, Sat 11:30 am-10:30pm, Sun 11:30 am-8:30 pm. MC, V. AE, DC. $$) 5.5
PARK CITIES/LOVERS LANE
Alessio’s. (Northern Italian) In order to emphasize the nightly blackboard offerings, the menu here is small, though amply weighted with veal. The specials run from a few creative appetizers (such as the distinguished shrimp with broccoli and Parmesan cheese) to the heavy and uninspired fettuccine with salmon. The sole with hazelnuts is delicious. Service, unfortunately, can be negligent. If you can, request a table in the attractive front room; the back room looks and feels like an afterthought. (4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm, Sun 6-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5
D Au Bon Gout. (French) We’ve been listing this enterprise as a Gourmet Carryout business for several months, but now it has become one of the premier places to eat in Dallas as well. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, chef Christian Gerber prepares whatever he feels like cooking for no more than 30 people. The $35 prix fixe is worth every penny and more: The food is perfection. (4424 Lovers Lane. 369-3526. Mon-Wed 10 am-6 pm, Thur-Sat 10 am-6 pm & 7-10 pm. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. Reservations. Lunch $$, dinner $$$$) 8.5
Belvedere. (Austrian) If we mention that Belvedere (under the same ownership as The Chimney) is on the second floor of a retirement apartment house, you’ll probably get a false impression. Actually, the restaurant is airy, elegant and undauntedly cheerful, with lovely appointments and very helpful service. The food is pleasing without being exciting. Veal is the specialty, but the portion we were served was not quite tender and tasted a bit overfloured. The scallops in mustard sauce were much more satisfactory. (4242 Lomo Alto in the Crestpark Hotel. 528-6510. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
D REVISITS
Ewald’s. (Continental) Time has not diminished this place’s popularity. How many restaurants of a certain age are full even on a Monday evening? Maybe the patrons come here to be reassured – there’s nothing trendy about Ewald’s, and it is highly dependable. The specialties are veal and beef, cooked authoritatively and smothered in heavy sauces. The accompaniments can be rather odd: bananas stuffed with raisins and a bit of curry, parsley fried to an appetizing crisp, canned hearts of palm instead of artichoke bottoms atop a veal steak. (5415 W Lovers Lane. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30 pm, Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) 7.0
II Sorrento. (Traditional Italian) With its showy, intricate re-creation of an Italian piazza, II Sorrento has long been a favorite Dallas dining spot. Even on a week-night there can be crowds, and since the restaurant doesn’t take reservations on weekends, there’s almost always a wait. While the food isn’t sensational, it’s easy to see the appeal. The menu is huge, with house specialties such as shrimp Diane (in a buttery sauce flecked with scallions) and veal zingara (meaning “gypsy-style”) with ham and mushrooms. The best part of our last meal here was the desserts: a rum cake with cream and orange rind and a dense, bittersweet chocolate mousse. (8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Sun-Thur 5:30-11:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-rnidnight. All credit cards. $$$) 5.0
La Tosca. (Northern Italian) Why cant everything here be as good as the best things? We had an ethereal appetizer of steamed mussels on our last visit, followed by overcooked and underseasoned paglio e fieno (green and white pasta in a sauce touched with tomato and cream). Our main dishes of veal and shrimp were unexciting. Still, this may well be Dallas’ best Italian restaurant by default. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Sun 6-10:30 pm. Reservations Tue-Thur & Sun only. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$) 7.0
D REVISITS
Le Panier. (Eclectic) At lunch, this place serves sandwiches and other light meals and calls itself the Lunch Basket. In the evening, it becomes a bit more formal, ups the prices (though they’re still reasonable) and becomes Le Panier. The cozy atmosphere provides a pleasant environment in which to sample the good recipes from all over. They range from “Oklahoma Burn’- a steak seared to the point of blackness outside but perfectly cooked within – to a Central European duck with blackberry sauce. The staff is efficient and knowledgeable, although they don’t seem to smile much. (3404 Rankin. 369-3241. The Lunch Basket: Mon-Sat 11 am-3 pm; Le Panier: Tue-Sat 6-10 pm. Reservations for evenings only. MC, V. $$) 6.0
The Riviera. (French Provencal) The Riviera, as its name hints, largely concentrates its offerings on the specialties of the south of France – a region known for its flamboyant use of herbs, tomatoes and garlic. A number of the famous specialties of that part of the world show up on the menu. The modestly named lobster stew is a version of its fabled fish soups and includes lotte (a firm-textured fish), scallops and mussels along with a bounteous portion of the lobster. A bowl of rouille (a garlicky light mayonnaise) is served on the side. The veal chop, too, has the heady perfume of Provence; the big, meaty chop is topped with rosemary butter and a sprig of fresh rosemary. One accompanying vegetable dish was zucchini with peppers and onions (a ratatouille without the eggplant), cooked better than it is at any place else in town. The hardwood floors and the warm, not-too-formal decor make you feel you are truly in an elegant country inn. (7709 In-wood. 351-0094. Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$$) 7.0
D REVISITS
Szechuan Pavilion. (Chinese) Some restaurants soar and flame like comets, then are gone. And some, like this one, continue with reliable excellence. All of our entrées, especially the masterfully prepared Prime Minister’s Chicken, were fresh and subtly layered with unexpected tastes. Chicken and shrimp with cashew nuts (with bamboo shoots, baby corn and mushrooms to supplement the crunchy nuts) ran a close second, and we also recommend the egg drop soup. But the egg rolls had a leathery crust – a minor and, we hope, temporary failing. (8409 Preston. 368-4303. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 4:30-10 pm; Fri 11:30 am-2:30pm & 4:30 pm-10:30 pm, Sat noon-10:30 pm, Sunnoon-10 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$) 5.0
LOWER GREENVILLE/EAST DALLAS
Chickeria. (Texana) Inside this small, spare diner with its turquoise tables and chairs, you’ll find a variety of down-home selections as well as a few Tex-Mex items. Chickeria’s specialty is barbecued chicken grilled over a mesquite fire, and it’s just what it’s supposed to be: juicy inside and smoky outside. Other choices from the grill include ribs and shrimp, and all are offered with tasty homemade vegetables such as corn on the cob, baked beans and mashed potatoes (mashed with the skin on). If home-style doesn’t suit your taste buds, try the fajitas (served on a flour tortilla with some excellent guacamole on the side) or the delicious chicken tacos. (601 N Haskell. 821-9072. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. V, AE. $) 6.5
Genaro’s Tropical. (Mexican) The magical ambiance here is out of a Thirties movie, and the swordfish kebab is to die for. But a lot of the other dishes, including the much-touted ones based on seafood, can be pretty ordinary. The crabmeat enchiladas, for instance, are merely fishy. And why won’t these folks put up a sign outside? You could drive up and down the street for an hour and still not find this place – it occupies the corner where Skillman intersects with Live Oak. (5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Sun-Thur 11am-10:30 pm; Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)6.0
D L’Ancestral. (Country French) We still find this dignified bistro just as charming as we did when it opened last fall. The lentil salad, served warm, is a pleasurable surprise, and the potato-and-leek soup is very French and very satisfying. The roast veal and filet of sole are cooked to perfection. Desserts continue to be a disappointment, but that’s a minor factor compared to everything else – which is superb country French cooking. (5631 Alta. 826-0006. Tue-Sun 6:30 pm-1 am. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$$) 8.5
D REVISITS
La Pagode. (French/Vietnamese) Situated on the border of Deep Ellum, this restaurant hasn’t drawn the crowds it deserves. The standard Oriental dishes are fresher than usual here, and the French influence offers a surprising selection of entrées and soups, as well as a more European than Vietnamese decor. Banh Xeo, La Pagode’s special crepe, is filled with a choice of chicken, pork or shrimp and – why not? – bean sprouts. For dessert, choose lechees on ice, beans with coconut milk or, if you’d prefer, a more familiar French pastry. (4302 Bryan. 821-4542. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10 pm,Sat & Sun 11-11. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$) 5.0
Panteli’s. (Greek) This wine bar with mostly Greek food is a delightful place for an after-theater supper. The appetizer plate is bountiful, with dolmas and lots of vegetables and hunks of cheese. The skewered lamb is exceptional-tender and full of flavor. The people who work here are exceptionally nice, too; they won’t rush you even if you’re the last ones in the place. (1928 Greenville. 823-8711. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun 4:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5
Pietro’s. (Southern Italian) For an unpretentious Italian dinner at unpretentious prices, you can’t improve on Pietro’s. The restaurant serves mostly Southern Italian fare. The basic pastas are reliable, and the salad is crisp and nicely enhanced by green peppers. The specials are usually pleasant, and the garlic bread is so temptingly loaded with butter, garlic and parsley that it’s hard to stick to just one big slice of it. Although it’s not playing in the super sweepstakes of some of the newer, higher-flying Italian restaurants in town, this family-run, neighborhood establishment is still a favorite of many who have frequented it for years. (5722 Richmond. 824-9403. Tue-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. MC, V. $$) 5.5
UPPER GREENVILLE/NORTH CENTRAL
The Chimney. (Austrian) Small wonder that the Chimney continues to comfort its clientele- it radiates warmth like the coziest fire in winter. The food has always been prepared according to exacting standards, with veal dishes of every description at the top of the list. On a recent visit, the Veal Forestiére, with luscious duxelles in a fine brandy cream sauce, was excellent, as was the more plebian but nonetheless tricky Wiener schnitzel. The buenderfleisch (thin, air-cured, beet-red beef) was tasty and ample enough for two, but the special Chimney appetizer – a seafood crepe in a hollandaise sauce – won hands down. Another fine starter is the salad with house dressing, which comes with a little mound of delicate fried onions. For dessert, the “Austrian snowball” – vanilla ice cream, almonds and chocolate sauce-is still our favorite. (Willow Creek Shopping Center, 9739 N Central Expwy at Walnut Hill Lane. 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations requested. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5
Cunze’s. (Southern Italian) This place has the feel of a cozy neighborhood restaurant – even if you don’t happen to live in the area. The pasta here is good, although the accompanying sauces are rather predictable. We especially enjoyed the boneless chicken with mushrooms. One minor gripe: The service is attentive to a fault – in fact, it makes it difficult to carry on a coherent conversation, much less a meal. (6101 Greenville. 369-5747. Daily 5-10 prn. Reservations. All credit cards. $$) 4.0
Gulf Coast Oyster Co. (Seafood) Oyster lovers might want to think twice before investing in the shellfish here. We rejected several of ours on sight as simply too small and discolored to consider; they were courteously replaced with specimens that were only slightly larger and rather tasteless. Likewise with the shrimp – or shrimpettes. This is a pleasant, airy little cafe, but the portions just wont do. (8041 Walnut Hill Lane. 361-1922. Mon-Thur11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 3.5
La Tartine. (French Deli) This place on the eastern (less pretentious) end of North Park Center serves lovely lunches. Soups include French onion and daily specials such as spicy, thick tomato. Sandwiches, made with the crusty French bread that’s baked in-house, range from roast beef to an informal bread pizza. Most fun of all, you can go to the case beside the cash register to pick out dessert – we tried cheesecake and baba au rhum, but there were fruit tarts and all sorts of other goodies, too. (919 NorthPark Center. 692-8498. Mon-Sat 9:30 am-9 pm. MC, V. $$) See Stemmons/Bachman Lake. 5.5
Lenotre. (French Sweets) In the high-rent western end of NorthPark Center and in Sakowitz Village in Far North Dallas, Gaston Lenotre, one of France’s most famous pastry chefs, has opened two of his American stores (soon to be followed by several more in Dallas). A meal (at the NorthPark location only) can be rather expensive for what you get and insubstantial; the patés are better bargains taken home by the pound. But in the store or at home, the sweets are heavenly. The ice cream may be the tastiest in town. We were most taken with both the very dark and smooth chocolate and the rubylike raspberry sorbet. The cakes are ornate and unusual; the pastries, rich beyond imagination. (North-Park Center. 369-4988. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 pm; tearoom closes at 5:30 pm. AE. $$) See Addison/Richard-son/Far North Dallas. 6.0
Prego Pasta House. (Italian) This Greenville Avenue spot owes much of its popularity to its pleasant atmosphere, which is stylish but unpretentious enough that even families with kids feel comfortable. The pizza is of the thin-crust variety. The lasagna is basic – good, filling and inexpensive. Other kinds of pasta are, to our relief, not overcooked. But more elaborate entrees such as veal Marsala aren’t worth the higher prices. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-midnighl. Sun noon-11 pm. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
D REVISITS
Royal Panda. (Chinese) The name of one of our entrées, Three Delights, set the tone for a delightful meal. That dish -shrimp, scallops and crab with chopped vegetables in a white sauce – was almost matched by the moo shu chicken, with its tangy sauce and Chinese pancakes cut wonderfully thin. Our appetizers, especially the Royal Panda soup, were nicely presented but lacked significant taste, while the surprisingly large shrimp toast were some of the best we’ve had. (8021 Walnut Hill Lane. 363-3858. Mon-Thur 11 am-4 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-6 am. MC, V, AE, DC. $$) 6.0
Rio Grande Grill. (Mexican) This is the south-of-the-border branch of the Bennigan’s school. Fresh, crisp tortilla chips are served gratis with hot queso sauce. Flautas, fajitas and chimichangas are made with fresh beef and chicken, and good service isn’t in short supply. But, as with any restaurant whose menu begins with nachos and ends seven pages later with ice cream drinks, nothing is extraordinary. Save Rio Grande for those times when only a fern-bar fiesta will do. (5111 Greenville. 692-9777. Daily 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
Sahib. (Indian) This is a warmer, friendlier restaurant than it once was. It was always the most attractive Indian restaurant in town, and now the service adds to the charm rather than detracting. The food, though no longer extraordinary, is still very good. The appetizers include pakoras (deep-fried, battered vegetables) and samosas (little pastries filled with potatoes and other vegetables). Among the main dishes, we liked the chicken tikkha masala, served in a rich, tomatoey sauce. Don’t fail to order one of the numerous varieties of Indian flatbreads here, such as the many-layered paratha of whole wheat. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
Taiwan. (Chinese) The eye is always charmed at Taiwan – a whole fish cooked Hunan style may be garnished by a net carved miraculously from a carrot. But the last time we ordered that lovely-looking dish, it didn’t taste as good as it looked: The sauce was bland and the skin of the fish not crisp and fresh-tasting. The caring service complements the elegant dining rooms and makes Taiwan one of the most pleasant Chinese restaurants in town to dine in even when the kitchen is having an off night. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Daily 11-11. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$) See Addi-son/Richardson/Far North Dallas. 7.0
WHITE ROCK
China Inn. (Chinese) From the road, China Inn doesn’t look any classier than the Keller’s Drive-In nearby. But step inside this cracker box. You’ll discover that there aren’t any Woolworth-vintage Oriental chandeliers or tacky Chinese plaques adorning the walls. Instead, you’ll find good food in a quiet, pleasant atmosphere. The egg rolls are crisp and tasty; the rice, tender. We were also pleased with our shrimp and sweet-and-sour pork entrees. The service was very attentive, even though we thought that our cola refill wouldn’t show up on the bill. (6521 E Northwest Hwy. 369-7733. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: daily 5-11. MC, V, AE. S) 5.0
PRESTON ROYAL
D REVISITS
Jean Paul. (French) This small Preston Royal French restaurant seems to have an older, more loyal crowd than some of the newer and snazzier joints about town. Its owners have chosen (wisely) to invest in good food rather than in plush decor, but some of the dishes were a little too ornate. Escargots in puff pastry were so heavily doused in sauce as to be indistinguishable from mushrooms in puff pastry. The lamb chops topped with blue cheese were well worth sampling, though too rich to finish. (5934 Royal Lane. 692-9515. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. MC, V,AE. $$$) 5.5
STEMMONS/BACHMAN LAKE
Bachman Café. (Seafood) This place advertises itself as a “Louisiana-style seafood restaurant.” It’s promising, although it has some way to go to fulfill that promise. The gumbo had the authentic smoky taste of a long-stirred roux and a peppery bite. The catfish filets on the seafood platter were possibly the best in town, but the other components (except for the excellent homemade french fries) were only so-so. (3049 Northwest Hwy. 351-0959. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm; dinner: daily 5-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.5
Café Moustache. (Russian/Indonesian) This cafeteria-style lunchroom serves a hearty, home-cooked Russian lunch from a menu that typically features three or four selections. We tried the marinated briskette with mushrooms and the ginger chicken with vegetables, although the chicken-stuffed cabbage rolls looked great. Both meats were moist and tender, but the frozen mixed vegetables and the tough broccoli spears were a disappointment. A chocolate amaretto cake, the only dessert offered, was fabulous. Cafe Moustache serves an interesting selection of Indonesian food on Friday and Saturday evenings. (9454 Marsh Lane. 350-9314. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Fri & Sat 5-10. MC, V, AE. $$)5.0
Don’s Seafood and Steakhouse. (Seafood & steak) We mean it in the best of ways when we say that Don’s is the Sears of seafood. This sprawling emporium is a far cry from fancy (who cares about the difference ’twixt turbot and turbo-diesel?), but the long menu of mostly fried fish and Cajun specialties offers a sound value for fish lovers who prefer quantity over chichi any day of the week. (2361 W Northwest Hwy. 350-3667. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. $$) 4.0
Jozef’s. (Seafood) See McKinney/Oak Lawn. (2460 Walnut Hill Lane. 351-5365. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
La Tartine. (French Deli) See Upper Greenville/North Central. (4343 Northwest Hwy, Suite 360. 351-4408.Mon-Sat 9 am-8 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5
Piccolo Mondo. (Adriatic) This restaurant delivers tasty versions of standard Adriatic cuisine, including fine tortellini and fettuccine. Fish and shellfish get a particularly nice treatment, but the standard veal dishes don’t have much zing to them. Our first visits made Piccolo Mondo seem a possible contender for the superior Italian restaurant Dallas doesn’t yet have, but more recent experience hasn’t fulfilled those initial hopes. (9507 Overtake Drive at Ovella. 357-2983. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon- Thur 5-10:30, Fri-Sun 5-11. All credit cards. $$$) 5.0
Turtle Cove. (Seafood) Our most recent visit here restored our confidence in the place that set the Dallas trend of broiling seafood over mesquite. Our salmon was perfectly cooked over the coals, and the kitchen showed it could manage other techniques by frying up some snapper perfectly. The trick to keeping the expenses down here is to forego the appetizers and desserts: They run the bill up, and they’re not worth the extra tariff. (2731 W Northwest Hwy. 350-9034. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri&Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. $$$) 6.5
ADDISON/RICHARDSON/FAR NORTH DALLAS
Agnew’s at the Promenade. (Continental) Tom Agnew’s new venture has nothing to do with the original Agnew’s, which closed a few months ago. The food is something of a surprise. The chef tends to prepare lots of puff pastry for the appetizers, and the sauces for such things as the escargots with cheese and ham are heavy and creamy. The blackened red snapper (blackening fish is all the rage in New Orleans restaurants these days) is superb, and the desserts are very rich, sweet and luxurious. (2500 Promenade Center, Coit Road between Belt Line and Arapaho. 437-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$$) 7.0
August Moon. (Chinese) Every time we go back to this Far North Dallas favorite, we are more impressed. August Moon offers a variety of really unusual dishes. Among the appetizers are Ming shrimp in Chinese pancakes and beef-stuffed dumplings that are the tastiest in town. Equally exotic is the authentically prepared Eight Treasure Duck, which is first baked, then steamed and sauced luxuriously. But August Moon does equally well with standbys such as egg rolls and sweet-and-sour pork. The quality here is hardly a secret, so you can expect a wait during peak hours. (15030 Preston at Belt Lina. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11.Sat10:30 am-11 pm, Sun 10:30-10:30. Dim sum served daily. Reservations for four or more or for special banquets. Bar by membership. All credit cards. $$) 7.0
D BIom’s. (French Nouvelle) Dinner at Blom’s is an elegant experience. The inspired menu here is in perpetual flux: The left side changes seasonally, the right side nightly. The constant is a sense of adventure that blends the methods and some of the style of nouvelle cuisine with the complexity and fantasy of more classic French cooking. Our lamb chops, for instance, came coated with a mousse of capon in which fresh rosemary was embedded, surrounded by a light sauce and a garnish of assorted beans cooked until they were barely tender. A caribou was artfully presented with a subtly tart gravy. Entrées were preceded by a soup containing julienne frog legs and lettuce, an overly vinegared salad and a sorbet of applejack and tarragon. Our dinner ended on a more conservative but delicious note with a gratin of fruit and a chocolate Marquise. (Westin Hotel. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9494. Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11: Sun brunch: 10:30-2:30. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$) 8.5
D REVISITS
China North. (Chinese) Many of the things that made this place special when we first dined here had disappeared on our last visit. The Peking Duck is still available without notice, but this time it wasn’t carved dramatically at the table, and its skin didn’t have the delicate crunchiness it had before (we were told the birds are roasted once a week and then frozen). The service posed some communication problems, although the waiters were still trying hard to be pleasant. But for fans of the all-you-can-eat Mongolian fire pit, we’re happy to report that the lavish spread of meats, vegetables and sauces that hungry diners can assemble and take to the great metal grill to be cooked remains unchanged. (4021 Belt Line, Suite 101, Addison. 788-1811. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
Fuji-Ya. (Japanese) At first glance, this place seems less traditional than other Japanese restaurants in town. There is no tatami seating, for example, and waitresses are more often dressed in jeans than kimonos. The food, though, is both traditional and excellent. We tried most of the appetizers and found that they were appetizing indeed. Among the entrées, the Shabu Shabu (vegetables and thin slices of beef cooked right at the table) was our favorite. Fuji-Ya also offers “bento” meals, with bits of everything tucked into individual compartments on a lacquered tray. (13050 Coit. 690-8396. Tue & Wed 10-10. Thur-Sat 10am-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. MC.V, AE. $$) 4.5
Gallé. (French Continental) The burgundy velvet banquettes and etched glass partitions of this roomy hotel restaurant contrast oddly with the sounds of honky-tonk piano from the bar outside, and on a slow night, the place can seem deserted. But the food is prepared expertly, if not always memorably. The appetizer selectionof patés, like all the other dishes here, looks lavish: Three differently patterned patés compete for attention with a tomato tulip filled with caviar. The salads are similarly fantastic: potpourris of Belgian endive, tomatoes, pickled quail eggs and bleu cheese. The portions of sirloin steak and Dover sole topped with crab meat and hazelnut sauce that we ordered were so large we couldn’t finish them, and they were garnished with a bevy of vegetables that included wild asparagus in hollandaise and glazed turnips. (Lincoln Hotel, Lincoln Center. 5410 LBJ Frwy. 934-8400. Tue-Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations requested. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$) 6.5
Golden Chopsticks. (Chinese) We thought we knew all about Far North Dallas, but Far North Addison was terra incognita even for us. This new Chinese restaurant is attractive enough without being fancy, and it has some excellent dishes, especially in the spicy (though not very hot) Hunan and Szechuan styles. The most impressive one we tried was General Chio’s Spicy Chicken: large chunks of chicken breast fried and then stir-fried, flavored with lots of sweet pepper and fresh ginger. The Pork and Shrimp Hunan Style was a lovely dish, contrasting chewy shreds of pork flecked with black beans with tiny shrimp in a mild, tomatoey sauce. (16601 Addison Rd, Addison. 931-6868. Daily 10:30am-11 pm. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
Highland Park Cafeteria. (Southern) See Knox/Henderson. (Sakowitz Village, Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8025. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-8 pm, Sat 11 am-8 pm, Sun 10:45 am-3 pm. No liquor. No credit cards. $) 6.0
D REVISITS
Jasons. (Steak & seafood) It had been a while since we had visited this cozy and elegant restaurant, because their lobster special wasn’t. Unfortunately, the only thing memorable about our latest visit was the check. It didn’t reflect the skimpy appetizers of steamed clams, crab-stuffed mushroom caps or baked oysters, all of which were flavorful except the bacon-laden oysters. The evening special, crab-stuffed calamari, was a disappointment; the crab flavor was overwhelming. A luscious-looking prime rib was flavorless. The evening was saved, however, by a tasty combination of shrimp scampi and pasta. And a fresh blueberry tart from the pastry cart was a pleasant surprise. (Sakowitz Village, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. 960-2877. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Fri 5-10:30, Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 4.5
Korea House. (Korean) This place has been less than absolutely dependable throughout its existence. On our last visit, we hit it on a downswing-the fried appetizers, for instance, were dismally soggy. But even when it’s not at the top of its form, Korea House offers many pleasures. The most famous Korean dish, bulgoki (a kind of barbecued shredded beef), is always good here, and the side dishes of cold vegetables are wonderful: marinated cucumbers, spinach with sesame seeds and the spicy fermented cabbage called kim-chee. The waitresses, in their long, silk Korean gowns, try hard to please. (Promenade Center, Coit at Belt Line, Suite 610, Richardson. 231-1379. Daily 11:30 am-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.5
Lenotre. (French Sweets) See Upper Greenville/North Central. (Sakowitz Village, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. 934-8300, ext. 210. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 pm; tearoom closes at 5:30 pm. AE. $$) 6.0
D REVISITS
Le Train Bleu. (Continental) It’s not easy to imagine an air of seclusion in the middle of Blooming-dale’s, but once you board Le Train Bleu, you are indeed in another world. The offerings here are ambitious (extraordinarily so when you stop to consider that you’re sampling department-store fare) and, for the most part, successful. A paté Cam-pagne was wonderfully country-rich and was presented beautifully with thinly sliced new potatoes in a mustard vinaigrette. We tried the snails served in a hollowed-out square of bread with an unusual sauce of honey, anchovies, garlic and diced green pepper and were delighted with the results. A cold sliced lamb plate was less pleasing; it was properly pink but gritty in spots. A frozen caramel souffle and the creamy creme bailée reconfirmed Le Train Bleu’s expertise in French desserts. (Blooming-dale’s, Valley View Center, 13320 Montfort. 450-2290. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-8. Jackets required at dinner. AE, Bloom-ingdale’s; personal checks accepted. $$$) 5.5
Mother Shuckers. (Seafood) This oyster bar at the west end of the Addison strip has good food and modest prices. You order at a counter and take away fresh-shucked oysters and boiled shrimp yourself (servers bring cooked items to you when they arer eady). The menu consists mostly of fried seafood, but they are done well for the most part. Shrimp fried in a beer batter and whole catfish coated with cornmeal were our favorites among the main dishes. Accompaniments include charming spiral-cut fried potatoes and a slaw that is not too sweet. There are occasional specials such as boiled crawfish, served all-you-can-eat. (3957 Belt Line between Midway and Marsh. 788-2772. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
D REVISITS
Mario and Alberto. (Mexican) Probably the best Mexican restaurant in Dallas, this popular place distinguishes itself by constant innovation. Among the new offerings on our last visit were the delightful flautitas (tiny, delicate, crisp fried flutes of chicken-stuffed tortillas) and the pork in a peppery red sauce. Old favorites like the beef tenderloin studded with garlic and peppers never fail to delight, either. At the end of a meal here, we can never bring ourselves to order dessert off the menu – we look forward with too much relish to eating the pralines, which are heavily spiked with cinnamon. (Preston Valley Shopping Center, LEU Frwy at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5.50 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.5
Stetson’s. (Steaks & seafood) This is a surprisingly good spot for the new generation of board-room Texans (rather than the barroom variety). Stetson’s is a steak place – there’s no doubt about that – but the furnishings are different from what we’ve seen in most places that serve 2-inch-thick steaks with all the trimmings: The dining room looks downright nice. That scared us at first, but the service was friendly, and the beef was cooked to perfection. The only concession to North Dallas vogue were the baked potatoes served in printed, resin-coated paper jackets. Stetson’s serves great hot rolls and the Ortega salad, a tough-guy appetizer with the biggest beefsteak tomatoes we’ve seen in years, served with peppers and slabs of sweet red onion and marinated in vinaigrette dressing. (The Registry Hotel, 15201 Dallas Pkwy. 386-6000. Lunch: Mon-Thur 11:30 am-3 pm; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Reservations recommended. $$$) 7.0
D REVISITS
Rheun Thai. (Thai) Strong in the running for the title of Dallas’ best hole-in-the wall ethnic restaurant, this friendly spot offers excellent Siamese cooking. Much of it is highly spicy, such as the cold meat salads liberally sprinkled with fresh hot peppers and mint or chopped ginger root. But a number of dishes hold no terrors for the most dyspeptic: There are delicate creations (which resemble Chinese food but have subtly different tastes and textures) such as chicken with peppers, onions and fresh mushrooms. And the waitresses will be glad to suggest leaving out the peppers on certain dishes if you don’t want too much fire. (Keystone Park, 13929 N Central Expwy, Suite 400, Richardson. 437-2484. Mon-Thur 10-10, Fri & Sat 10am-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.5
Tanjore. (Indian) Indian food is still an adventure for most Dallas folks, and a meal here is a delight. Settle into the calming apricot-colored environs, accustom your ears to the Hindi music and begin by sampling the Tanjore Tray, a selection of lightly fried meats and vegetables. Beef magulai, murg mussalam and shrimp masala are three entrees that show off the breadth of the unfamiliar and the variety of combinations of curry, coriander and other Eastern spices that our culture neglects. Enjoy the different meat, chicken and lamb dishes with saffron rice, and close the meal with mango Iassi (a kind of Indian ice cream) or a Tanjorita, a smooth yogurt drink. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-3. Bar membership available. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
D Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. (Chinese) As this best of Dallas’ Chinese restaurants matures, the staff seems to be getting more hospitable – and the food, as always, is stellar. The spicy Hunan dishes can be complemented with such offerings as Beef with Snow Peas or Chicken with Walnuts, not fiery with peppers but still robust. The menu has lots of byways to explore-frog legs, rabbit and dishes cooked in the Hunan steamer pot. (The Galleria, Suite 3370, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$) 8.5
PLANO
D REVISITS
Bob Willy’s. (Barbecue) Get on out here while it’s still more or less country – there’s an ominous-looking crane looming across the way. You’ll want to go to Bob Willy’s because it’s the nicest place you’ll ever eat barbecue. Attached to a homey antique store, it’s the picture of a country dining room, and it overlooks a grove of willow trees and open fields. The barbecue is good, if not outstanding – everything comes doused in a sweetish, slightly spicy sauce. The pecan and buttermilk chess pies will reinforce your conviction that your grandmother-or somebody’s grandmother – must be hovering about the place somewhere. (1933 Preston, Piano. 985-0624. Breakfast: daily 6-11; lunch: daily 11 -2:30; dinner: Thur-Sat 5:30-8:30. No credit cards. $$) 5.5
Sarducci’s. (Northern Italian) The menu at this Piano restaurant is Northern Italian – fairly adventuresome for Dallas and very adventuresome for Piano. Most Northern Italian restaurants have their biggest successes in cooking pasta and veal, but so far, these aren’t Sarducci’s strong points. Instead, the vitello tonnato appetizer was far and away the best version around, with paper-thin slices of veal roll floating on a lemony tuna sauce. The best entrees were the river trout (crusty and served with a green sauce on the side) and the soothingly creamy chicken Delfino. (Harvey House Hotel, 1600 N Central Expwy at 16th, Piano. 578-8555. Lunch: Mon – Fri 11 -2:30; dinner: daily 5-11; Sun brunch: 10:30-2. All credit cards. Lunch $$, dinner $$$) 5.5
GARLAND/MESQUITE
Café Maria. (Mexican) This Mexican restaurant in Southeast Garland is a puzzler. It looks like a barbecue joint, and the personnel seems anything but ethnically authentic. Yet someone is obviously trying hard to turn out unusual and authentic Mexican specialties. But maybe they’re trying too hard. The menu is so long that not everything could be cooked well, let alone authentically. The ordinary Tex-Mex isn’t bad here, but it’s hard to adjust one’s expectations, aroused by the appealing-sounding dishes on the menu, with the prosaic realities on the table. (6541 Duck Creek, Garland. 271-8456. Mon-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
Chuggs. (Burgers) The motto of this unique Garland sandwich shop is “Love at first bite,” and truer words were never advertised. The hot dogs – Vienna (a brand name) 100-percent kosher beef – are great, although the chili served on the chili dog is impossibly sweet and contains (horrors!) beans. The sautéburger we tried, with “shrooms” (sautéed mushrooms), peppers, tomatoes and real Cheddar, was unequaled by any hamburger in our previous experience. The Reuben was also a definitive sandwich. There’s no need to trumpet the praises of the desserts at Chuggs; members of the family that owns the place are ready at all times to recommend their favorites. (703 W Centerville, Garland. 686-1500. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri-Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun 1-10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 7.0
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
The China Rose. (Chinese) This Arlington restaurant, which serves Hong Kong-style Chinese food, has had its ups and downs. This time, we’re happy to report that both food and service are on the upswing. We fared best with the chicken and pork dishes; the seafood, in comparison, was bland. The decor and ambiance (including minor “street” parades – authentically clad waiters pulling dragon kites and floats) were as lavish and loud as we remembered. (1401 N Collins, Arlington. (817) 277-5888. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.0
China Terrace. (Chinese) This new restaurant in the northwestern reaches of Las Colinas is among the more ambitious Chinese establishments in the Metroplex. The hors d’oeuvres include delicate spring rolls and anassorted cold plate featuring excellent cold chickenwith sesame sauce. In the China Terrace Prawns, youwill find nearly three dozen toasted hot peppers amongthe well-cooked shrimp and peanuts. The fresh spinachwith garlic and sesame seeds is a delightful way to eatyour green vegetables. If you’re feeling extravagant, themost delightful dessert here is the Empress FruitSculpture-gothic spires made of apples surroundcarved oranges, honeydew and chunks of banana. (5435 N MacArthur, Irving. 258-1113. Daily 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.0
D Enjolie. (Nouvelle) If you want to be pamperedwith some of the best cuisine in town in relaxedbut elegant surroundings, try Enjolie. Thepheasant mousse, surrounded by a not-too-sweetblueberry sauce, is an ethereal beginning to a meal.The main course of three different kinds of fish, each inits own sauce, is subtle rather than showy. All thedesserts are spectacular – if you can find room between the French cheeses and the petits fours servedafter dinner. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel, 221 S Las Colinas Blvd, lrving. 556-0800, ext. 3155. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0
D REVISITS
II Nonno’s. (Northern Italian) As a rule, restaurants located near airports are unspectacular, drawing customers who happened to be there rather than those who really wanted to be there. II Nonno’s, inthe Amfac East Tower at D/FW airport, is the exception. The food, service and decor all make it wellworth your while. Among the appetizers, our favorite was the carbonara: pasta in a rich cream saucewith bits of bacon and herbs. The entrees we sampled, veal parmigiana and eggplant Parmesan,were memorable, too. The service should also besingled out: The waiters and waitresses sing andserve with equal enthusiasm. And we were impressed by II Nonno’s willingness to go the extramile: After we ordered cappuccino and were toldthere was none left, we received other drinksfree of charge. (East Tower, Amfac Hotel, D/FW airport. 453-8400. Daily 6-11 pm. Reservations. Allcredit cards. $$$) 5.5
FORT WORTH
Aventino’s. (Northern Italian) A pleasant surprise awaited us at this intimate Italian strip-shopping-center restaurant. Although the restaurant is barely more thana hole in the wall, patrons are treated to a showroomproduction of Paraguayan harp and classical guitarmusic every Friday night. Our meal was on an even parwith the entertainment. An appetizer of soft meltedcheese (served with fresh bread for dunking) was a delicious starter. Among the entrees, veal (lightly breaded with fresh lemon) and spinach fettuccine wererecommended, and they proved to be wise choices:satisfying, yet light enough to leave room for cheesecake and espresso. (3206 Winthrop Ave. (817)731-0711. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10,Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. MC, V, AE. $) 5.0
D REVISITS
Benito’s. (Tex-Mex) Our all-time favorite waiter, Tino, is still in fine form at this haven of traditional Mexican cuisine on the South Side. “I”ve got some nice fajitas for you, madame; for you, sir, I’ve got some really nice chile rellenos.’ We must admit that the gregarious service is one of our attractions to Benito’s, but the main stars of the show are the delicious and authentic dishes that are a standout in the Metroplex. (Owner Maria Umland says that some of her most popular dishes are made with beef tongue and cabrito). For weekend brunches or late-night snacks, migas (scrambled eggs with tortillas and a fiery sauce) are always in demand. When the menu says “sizzling fajitas,” that’s what you get; we almost wish they’d pass out welder’s masks with each order. And the fine tortilla soup comes with just about everything. Simply put, the food is some of the best Mexican cuisine anywhere. (1450 W Magnolia. (817)332-8633. Sun-Thur 10-10, Fri & Sat 10 am-3 am. No credit cards. $) 6.0
The Balcony. (Continental) Overlooking the lights of busy Camp Bowie Boulevard from inside The Balcony, we began our meal with escargots drenched in butter. Broiled lamb chops and fresh lobster followed. We were surprised at the size and freshness of the crustacean: It was expertly prepared, with the sweet flavor of the meat enhanced (but not overpowered) by the drawn butter. The unhurried pace of the service, the flickering candlelight and the distant tinkling of a piano lent a romantic air to our evening. But we also spied a family celebrating a birthday, three women co-workers enjoying dinner and several tables of business-suited men discussing the latest stock market flurry. The diversity, however, only adds to the restaurant’s charm. (6100 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
D REVISITS
Sardine’s. (Italian) When the uncontrollable urge for steaming plates of pasta hits you, don’t waste a minute: Get over to Sardine’s, squeeze into one ofthe booths or the many tiny tables and feast on adelectable order of spaghetti carbonara – a pastalover’s delight of whipped cream, hunks of bacon,mushrooms, onions and eggs. This dish outrankssuch standards as fettuccine Alfredo and traditionalspaghetti. For something lighter and less sinfullycarbohydrate, the daily chefs special, a NorthernItalian bouillabaisse, is chock-full of shellfish servedin a rich red sauce that’s just right for dunking garlicbread. Despite the slightly too-dim lighting, the too-loud jazz band and the always bustling atmosphere, you can bet we’ll be back for more. (3410Carnp Bowie. (817)332-9937. Sun-Thur 5:30 pm-midnight, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1 am. All credit cards.$$) 6.0
D Hedary’s. (Lebanese) The word must be out. For the first time, we encountered a line at Hedary’s, the fine West Side Lebanese restaurant. But we endured the wait, because we knew that the meal would indeed satisfy our cravings for lamb shish kebab and various spicy sausage and beef dishes, all served in a piping-hot fold of Lebanesebread. The family-run restaurant manages to keepprices low and servings generous. Come hungry, sincethe best way to start your dinner is with the seven-sampling salad course that can be a meal in itself. (3308Fairfield at Camp Bowie. (817)731-6961. Tue- Thur 5-10pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon. Noreservations. All credit cards. $$) 7.5
Kincaid’s. (Burgers) Next time you’re longing for thedays when life was easier and burgers were beefier,stroll on over to Kincaid’s. This old-time grocery storewith the grill in the back is a comforting slice of the olddays. And Kincaid’s famous burgers are the best part:They’re THICK, flavorful and stuffed with such tried-and-true additions as lettuce, tomato, onions and mustard.You probably wont even notice that you cant sit down,so just stand at one of the shelf-top counters and munchcontentedly while you peruse one of the nearbymagazines. Ahhh, the good old days. (4901 CampBowie. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10am-6:15 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $) 6.5
D REVISITS
D Tours. (Continental) We continue to be impressed with the formidable presence Tours has established on the Fort Worth dining scene. The small strip-shopping center location and the tiny, boxlike room at first appeared to be detrimental factors to this restaurant’s growth. But the owners have remained undaunted and continue to present an original and evolving menu. The serene pastels and unobstrusive yet pleasant service soothe work-wearied nerves, and the unflagging fare with nouvelle touches satisfies our gastronomic cravings. We were captivated from the beginning with the novel appetizers, which included a delicate but substantial egg roll and an upscale version of a traditional quesadilla. Among the entrees, we found the veal medallions with shallots to be so tender we could use a fork, and the steamed salmon with a slightly tangy spinach sauce was the freshest we’ve tasted since we last visited the Northwest. (3429B W Seventh St. (817) 870-1672. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended on weekends. MC. V, AE. $$$) 7.5
The Original Mexican Food Café. (Tex-Mex) The long lines at this popular Mexican food restaurant are due more to tradition than to outstanding food. Oh, the combination plates are okay, and the service is quick and efficient, but overall, the food isn’t really exceptional. But that’s not the point, as throngs of Fort Worth natives will tell you. The margaritas are huge, and, moreover, the restaurant looks like the real thing; concrete walls, cracking linoleum floors and bustling waiters and waitresses. (4713 Camp Bowie. (817)738-6226. Sun-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-9:30pm. Closed Tue. All credit cards. $) 5.5
D REVISITS
The Wine Seller. (Continental) Dinner by candlelight is made even more romantic if you can havea chilled bottle of your favorite champagne and awine, cheese and paté board, too. Such is thepremise of the Wine Seller, and it excels in both theromance and epicure departments. Although thecozy bistro has a daily menu of well-prepared continental fare (chicken, beef and pasta dishes), wefind the appetizers perfect for a light dinner, especially the pepper and truffle patés and smokedgouda and Boursin cheeses. Accompanied byfresh fruit and scrumptious French bread, the”boards” are the perfect complement to any bottleof wine, which can be selected from the restaurant’s ample wine vaults. (6120 Camp Bowie. (817) 737-2323. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm,Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Closed Sun. MC,V. $$) 6.5
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