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DINING NEW ARRIVALS

The hottest new restaurants in Dallas
By D Magazine |

Au Bon Gout. We’ve been listing this enterprise in our Gourmet Carryout dining section for several months, but it now has completely transcended that category. In fact, it has become one of the premiere places to eat in Dallas. Christian Gerber, one of the owners of Au Bon Gout and a chef of distinction, first began serving lunches; then, in early April, he expanded the offerings to dinner three nights a week. On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, he prepares whatever he feels like cooking for no more than 30 people. You’d better make reservations now for next year, because when the public discovers the quality of food Gerber is serving, it’s going to be hard to get in the door.

It may sound arrogant to charge people $35 for a meal without giving them any choice about what they will eat until the dessert course. But at Au Bon Gout, it’s worth every penny and more; and if you’re finicky, you can always call ahead to make sure you like everything on the menu. An evening here is like going to a dinner party given by a notable chef-you may have to sit on a folding chair, but the china is translucent, the silver is sterling and the food is perfection. The advantage of having everyone eating the same thing is that Gerber and his two helpers can give their full attention to each dish. They don’t sound that exciting-just classic French cooking, nothing very unusual. But the execution is so wondrous that the excitement comes in the eating.

A sample meal might include tiny bouch坢es of puff pastry filled with a strong and creamy French cheese to munch on while one waits for the official appetizer, a mousse of sole with a basil cream sauce. Then comes a sorbet of Cabernet Sauvignon – rather sweet but redolent of the heady wine. A characteristic main course is a substantial veal steak (from the noix, the choicest part of the leg) smothered in truffle sauce and garnished with paper-thin slices of fried potatoes and a few tiny green beans. The salad might be more adventurous-we had one that included jicama (a Mexican root vegetable) and shredded carrots along with Boston lettuce, all in a thick dressing with ground walnuts. For dessert, you have a choice. The souffl6s are sensational (either white or dark chocolate with pine nuts at the bottom), and the tarts are just as delicious.

Lunches at Au Bon Gout are wonderful, too. The most popular offering is a plate of five salads ranging from tortellini to julienne of roast beef. Soups and entr坢es change daily, and everything we’ve sampled has been excellent. Gerber and his partner, Carol Key Dignam, as well as their small staff, try very hard to make their patrons comfortable and happy. Au Bon Gout still does some catering and offers cooking classes as well. And you can still take out anything from pate’s to rack of lamb. We recommend that you go while you can still get in. (4424 Lovers Lane. 369-3526. Mon-Sat 10 a.m.-7 p.m. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. Reservations. Lunch $$, dinner $$$$)

Agnew’s at the Promenade. A bit of background is in order. Tom Agnew founded the restaurant that bears his name, but he sold out some time ago to his former partners. For a while, he tried to get a restaurant project off the ground at the World Trade Center that was to be called Paradis, but nothing came of that plan. Now, he has finally opened a new restaurant in Richardson’s Promenade Shopping Center as part of the owners’ program to raise its glamour level. The new place is called, appropriately enough, Agnew’s at the Promenade. Tom Agnew-an astoundingly young man, considering his reputation in Dallas as a restaurateur-personally supervises operations, and his new venture has nothing to do with the original Agnew’s a few miles west in Addison.

Given the reputation and quality one associates with the name, we were expecting great things from this restaurant. It’s a bit more attractive than the other Agnew’s: The small dining room, which has only 13 tables, is better proportioned; the tiny maroon-tiled bar is lovely; and there is a patio surrounding the building that has tables for outdoor lunches.

The food is something of a surprise. Although there are some nouvelle touches, the style resembles a reborn Old Warsaw more than the older Agnew’s (in fact, the chef at Agnew’s at the Promenade was previously a sous-chef at Old Warsaw). He tends to prepare lots of puff pastry for the appetizers, and the sauces for such things as the escargots with cheese and ham are heavy and creamy. He doesn’t yet have the masterful touch with sauces that Dean Fearing, the chef at the original Agnew’s, has (the shrimp with lime butter at the Promenade, for instance, is simultaneously too sweet and too sour). Still, one can eat very well in Tom Agnew’s new restaurant. The blackened red snapper (blackening fish is all the rage in New Orleans restaurants these days) is superb. The desserts here are very rich, sweet and luxurious. The chocolate mousse, flavored with Cointreau and sitting in a light tulip of pastry, may be the best in town, and the fruit tarts and the chocolate or hazelnut meringue cakes can’t be bettered.

One of the most impressive things about Agnew’s at the Promenade is the reasonable prices-30 percent lower than the top places in town. And the young proprietor’s solicitous presence is comforting and enjoyable. Agnew’s at the Promenade is almost impossible to find without instructions (it’s behind Lester Melnick’s and Lilly Dodson’s), and ambitious restaurants have previously not done much business in this part of the Met-roplex. We hope that enough people will search this new one out to break the jinx. (2500 Promenade Center, Coit Road between Belt Line and Arapaho. 437-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Bachman Caf坢. This place advertises itself as a “Louisiana-style seafood restaurant.” It comes closer than many others to living up to such a boast: It’s promising, although it has some way to go to fulfill that promise. The gumbo, for instance, had the authentic smoky taste of a long-stirred roux and a peppery bite-it was thick (Creole-style) rather than watery (Cajun-style). The shrimp remoulade was obviously made with Creole mustard but was compromised by a heavy mixture of mayonnaise. What Loui-sianian would recognize that?

Among a rather motley assortment of main dishes, two stood out. The trout meu-niere had a buttery crust and needed only a dash of salt to be outstanding. The catfish filets on the seafood platter were possibly the best in town, but the other components (except for the excellent homemade french fries) were only so-so. We weren’t too crazy about the choice of desserts, either; it was limited to commercial ice cream preparations. The service was rather uneven, too. We hope that Bachman Caf坢 gets its act together more completely, because any place that really functions as a Louisiana-style seafood restaurant is rendering a valuable service to humanity. (3049 Northwest Hwy. 351-0959. Mon-Sat 11 a.m-2:30 p.m. & 5-11 p.m. MC, V, AE. $$)

Tangerine. This informally elegant new Chinese restaurant is one of the best restaurants downtown. Beautiful porcelain figures and dark orange accents lend a festive air to the high-windowed rooms with their dramatic views of the new skyscrapers in the neighborhood. The food is excellent, too-one senses a definite desire to avoid clich坢. Only a few dishes are available (unless you give the kitchen a day’s notice), but they are rotated weekly. We have been impressed with the huge fried shrimp: Sometimes they’re stuffed with a pork filling, sometimes served plain. And both the spicy chicken with garlic and the Iron Rot Beef are exemplary.

A daily special can be had for $4, including a perfect egg roll. For a few dollars more, there is a choice of appetizer or soup (the beef with tofu is outstanding), a fancier entree and a pile of snow peas to accompany it. The house wine is Mondavi, and it’s only $1.50 a glass. The desserts on the menu aren’t exciting, but the gracious proprietress brings a basket of juicy tangelos at the end of every meal. For now, Tangerine is open only for lunch. We hope that demand will grow for longer hours and more available dishes, because this place has the potential to become one of the best Chinese restaurants in town. (2401 Ross. 969-1011. Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. MC, V, DC. $)

Sarducci’s. Many new restaurants are opening in Piano these days, but most are branches of successful operations in other parts of the Metroplex, and most are fairly limited in ambition. Sarducci’s, in the new Harvey House Hotel, is an exception. This Italian restaurant is unexpected in a lot of ways, among them the elegance of its understated decor in shades of wine and brown. Its menu is Northern Italian-fairly adventuresome for Dallas and very adventuresome for Piano.

Most Northern Italian restaurants have their biggest successes in cooking pasta and veal, but so far, these aren’t Sarducci’s strong points. The fettuccine Alfredo was delightfully al dente but tasted strongly and oddly of garlic. The linguini in a Bolognese sauce was made of fresh pasta but was overcooked when we sampled it, and the sauce had an unexpected peppery bite to it. Both veal entr坢es we tried, marsala and saltim-bocca, were too salty and unsubtle, although the latter was lavishly prepared with an ample amount of cured ham.

But the kitchen does have some notable strengths. The vitello tonnato appetizer was far and away the best version around, with paper-thin slices of veal roll floating on a lemony tuna sauce. Salads were a bounteous delight, with cauliflower, broccoli and olives in addition to crisp romaine and tomato. The best entr坢es we’ve encountered at Sarducci’s were the river trout (crusty and served with a green sauce on the side) and the soothingly creamy chicken Delfino. Much care is expended on the vegetables here, and all the desserts are forbiddingly rich. Our favorite was the zuppa inglese-a kind of trifle made with cake, raspberry sauce, custard and whipped cream. With service that is friendly and careful, Sarducci’s is a very welcome addition to the small list of Piano’s more ambitious restaurants. (Harvey House Hotel, 1600 N. Central Expwy. at 16th, Piano. 578-8555. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: daily 5-11. All credit cards. Lunch $$, Dinner $$$)

The Fresher Cooker. This franchise operation is based on a terrific idea: a fast-food place where you can take your family in good conscience and have some vegetables. If hamburger chains were its only competition, it would be a real winner. The salads are big, the sandwiches are tasty, and the baked potatoes (stuffed with such things as beef stroganoff) are filling. But the real competition is with the cafeterias and the walk-up windows in the malls, where you can get every sort of edible known to man. Against that kind of competition, Fresher Cookerdoesn’t look so appealing. The broccoli andcheese with noodles had a fair quantity ofbroccoli, but it was mixed with tired, overcooked noodles in a gloppy sauce. The special stuffed potato was a dried-out midget.Since the prices can easily run as high asLuby’s or Wyatt’s, we would probablychoose a cafeteria over Fresher Cooker if thelines at the cafeteria weren’t too long. (2975 W. 15th at Independence, Plano, 596-8345;701 W. Parker, Piano, 881-1944; 2041 TownEast Blvd., Mesquite, 686-1244. Mon-Thur10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat 10:30 a.m.-10p.m., Sun 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. No creditcards. $)

Golden Chopsticks. We thought we knew all about Far North Dallas-but Far North Addison was terra incognita even for us. This new Chinese restaurant is attractive enough without being fancy, and it has some excellent dishes, especially in the spicy (though not very hot) Hunan and Szechuan categories. The most impressive one we tried was General Chio’s Spicy Chicken: large chunks of chicken breast fried and then stir-fried, flavored with lots of sweet pepper and fresh ginger. The Pork and Shrimp Hunan Style was a lovely dish, contrasting chewy shreds of pork flecked with black beans with tiny shrimp in a mild tomatoey sauce.

For appetizers, the best bets are the fried dumplings or the Moo Shi Pork-delicious, but spiked with too much tangy Hoi Sin sauce. In fact, if we have a complaint here, it’s that the chef can’t resist thickening even dishes like Beef with Snow Peas or Buddha’s Delight (the whole point of which are clear vegetable tastes) with too much oyster sauce or other thick, salty seasoning. Still, you can find simplicity in a dish like Shrimp with Cashew Nuts, a delicate, clear-colored mixture. The staff is more outgoing at Golden Chopsticks than at many Chinese restaurants, and we’re happy that a new part of town has gotten another of the very good Chinese restaurants that keep popping up all over. (16601 Addison Rd., Addison. 931-6868. Daily 11-11. All credit cards. $$)

Richard’s Caf坢 Americain. If you’re the type of person who favors light lunchtime fare, replete with colorful pate’s, spiced tea, tiny muffins with strawberry butter and inventive variations on salad and sandwich themes-in short, if the word “dainty” is for you an appealing adjective -then climb high atop the Manor House to this cozy little tearoom in the sky. It’s brightly adorned with pleasing pastel colors and original works of art, and the service is both competent and attentive. A pianist adds spice to the melange in the afternoons. (Manor House, 1222 Commerce, 25th floor. 761-0143. Lunch: daily 11-2:30; tea: daily 3-5; happy hour: Mon-Fri3-7; Sun brunch: 11-3. MC, V, AE. $)

Aventino’s. A pleasant surprise awaited us at this intimate Italian strip shopping center restaurant in Fort Worth. Although the restaurant is barely more than a hole in the wall, patrons are treated to a showroom production of Paraguayan harp and classical guitar music every Friday night. Irish and Latin American ballads fill the air. It may hamper some conversationalists, but we found the music too engaging to converse much, anyway. Our meal was on an even par with the entertainment. An appetizer of soft melted cheese (served with fresh bread for dunking) was a delicious starter. Among the entr坢es, veal (lightly breaded with fresh lemon) and spinach fettuccine were recommended, and they proved to be wise choices: satisfying, yet light enough to leave room for cheesecake and espresso. (3206 Winthrop Ave. (817) 731-0711. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. MC, V, AE. $)



RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory has nothing to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate a general price range

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. Expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal for one (excluding wine and cocktails).

$$$$ Very expensive.

“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will accept reservations.

Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.

indicates a restaurant located on or north of LBJ Freeway.



BARBECUE



Bob Willy’s. This antique shop on the West Piano plains used to serve French food. Now it offers barbecue, which seems more appropriate. The ribs are wonderfully meaty and tender, the brisket is succulent, and the sausage and ham are also good. The potato salad is serious stuff: The pickles are sour, and there is hardly a hint of sweetness. The slaw is creamy, and the beans are honest, plain pintos. Even dessert (pecan pie) is worth the calories. (1933 Preston, Piano. 985-0624. Breakfast: daily 6-11; lunch: daily 11-2:30; dinner: Thur-Sat 5:30-8:30. No credit cards. $$)

The Rib. This place is rather a paradox, with courtly waiters in tuxes attending tables covered with oilcloths. Oh well, barbecue was never meant to be elegant. Relax with the appetizer of grilled sausage, then dive into short, sweet pieces of the ribs for which the place is named. Don’t overlook the barbecued shrimp, which are juicy and taste of real smoke. Prices are rather high here – especially if you take the all-you-can-eat option – but the portions are huge. (5747 W Lovers Lane. 357-8139. Daily5-10 pm. Carryout available daily 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

The Ribshack. Good mental health demands at least occasional barbecued ribs. Tearing at tender, juicy columns of meat and allowing streams of thick red sauce to drip down one’s chin satisfies the primal spirit and makes a tough impression at a power lunch. The Rib-shack is right for enjoying all forms of barbecue, beans, cole slaw and ice cold beer. And the chili rice is out of this world. (4615 W Lovers Lane. 351-3400. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun 11 am-9 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

Salih’s Bar-B-Que. This rustic restaurant on the Ad-dison strip is a popular lunch spot for North Dallasworkers because it serves hearty, home-style meals.Salih’s offers plates of mild barbecued beef, pork,chicken or sausage, as well as sandwiches. Both typesof entrees are served with surprisingly good vegetables(including green beans, french fries, cabbage, pintobeans and – our favorite-potato salad), all servedbuffet-style. And the friendly service makes the placeseem even warmer (4801 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2900. Mon-Sat 11 am-8.30 pm. Closed Sun. No creditcards. $)



D REVISITS

Sonny Bryan’s. Lordy, can these folks cook barbecue! The brisket is tender and |uicy, with a crisp crust that is the essence of woodsmoke. And the ribs are perfection. It’s of little consequence, we suppose, that the side dishes are nothing to speak of and that the hubbub and housekeeping are insufferable. If such things really bother you, you can do as many others do and order to go. (2202 in-wood 357-7120. Mon-Fri 7 am-5 pm, Sat 7 am-3 pm. Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



BREAKFAST



The Hungry Jockey. If you’re a people-watcher and you’re looking lor a nice, comfortable spot to have a good, rib-stckin’ breakfast, this is the place for you. The Hungry Jockey is a North Dallas institution – a haven for high-powered business breakfasters and genuine Levi’s-clad cowboys. Most of the food is hearty (although we’ve had some bad luck with dried-up bacon). The blueberry pancakes and the Canadian bacon are top-notch. Grab a cup of fresh coffee, then sit back and enioy a taste of a real diner. North Dallas-style. (1417 Preston Forest Square. 661-0134. Tue-Sat 6:30 am-2 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. No credit cards. $)



D REVISITS

Lucas’ B&B. Our previous reviews of this Oak Lawn institution were more than glowing, but our last visit was disappointing. It occurred to us that regardless of how charmed we are by beehive hairdos and orange vinyl booths, $4.55 is pretty steep for two eggs, a patty of sausage, two biscuits and coffee with one warm-up – especially since our Saturday morning service was slow and careless. Lucas’ may be an endearingly Texan place to take visitors from out of town, but for the working man’s breakfast, we’ll opt for Bubba’s. (3520 Oak Lawn. 526-8525. Daily 24 hours, except 1:45-3 pm, MC, V, $)



EUROPEAN



Arjon’s. Now under new management and with a new chef, this place is pretty much what it has always been: a good, solid, unremarkable continental restaurant. Our only real disappointment came early in the meal with a feuillete of sweetbreads for which you needed an ax to chop through the pastry. Otherwise, we enjoyed the meal – especially the Caesar salad (which some diners might have found too garlicky), the salmon with pink peppercorns and the dense chocolate mousse. The atmosphere is friendly, but the blare of the jazz club upstairs can be oppressive. (The Corner Shopping Center, 9840 N Central Expwy, 691-1177. Sun-Thur 6-11 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Arthur’s. The atmosphere, food and service here almost always provide a pleasant dining experience. Among the fine array of appetizers offered, the salmon and the escargots are excellent. But if you’re not in the mood to overeat, you could easily skip them and begin with a salad (portions here are quite large). The Arthur’s special salad, which is big enough for two, contains several types of leafy lettuce combined with fresh shrimp, avocados, hearts of palm and artichokes, all covered with a light dressing. The lobster bisque is a nice starter, too. although at times it has been a little too tomatoey. The entr坢es include a tremendous stuffed beef filet chock-full of crab meat, covered in a beefy sauce and served over wild rice. The fettuccine with lobster is another winner, with lots of lobster and just enough rich, creamy sauce. Although a number of tasty desserts are offered (such as a flaky, slightly sweet tart), go for the chocolate cake. It’s sinfully rich but worth the remorse. (Campbell Centre, 8350 N Central Expwy. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11, Sat 6 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)

The Bay Tree. The Wyndham Hotel recently changed management teams and put a new chef in its petite dining room – to the improvement of the food, if not the overbearing service. Previously, the cooking was satisfactory, but now several of the dishes are much better. It sometimes seems that every restaurant in town has a saut坢ed shrimp appetizer, but the one at The Bay Tree is a marvel. Intense heat has given the crustaceans a lovely reddish-brown crust, and the buttery wine sauce tickles the tongue. The noisettes of lamb are sauced superbly, too, although they have hardly a trace of the fresh rosemary mentioned on the menu. There are still some rather pedestrian things here, such as the asparagus soup and the saut坢ed snapper with a pistachio breading, but the comparatively moderate prices and the improved food make The Bay Tree worth considering. (The Wyndham Hotel, 2222 Stemmons. 631-2222. Daily 6-10. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)



D REVISITS

Belvedere. If we mention that Belvedere (under the same ownership as The Chimney) is on the second floor of a retirement apartment house, you’ll probably get a false impression. Actually, the restaurant is airy, elegant and undauntedly cheerful, with lovely appointments and very helpful service. The food is pleasing without being exciting. Veal is the specialty, but the portion we were served was not quite tender and tasted a bit overfloured. The scallops in mustard sauce were much more satisfactory. (4242 Lomo Alto in Crestpark Hotel. 528-6510. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)



Bohemia. A little corner of the old country is hidden behind the unprepossessing exterior of this place. Airy lace and perpetual Mozart set the tone here, and the food can be excellent. We especially enjoyed the rich liver pate as an appetizer, and the strudel is the real thing. But the main dishes show that the food is basically sturdy. Czech-style home cooking rather than anything more elaborate. The sauces on the sauerbraten and the pork roast are excellent, but the meats themselves are sliced coarsely and thereby lose appeal. But is there any other place in Dallas where you can order Tokay, the Hungarian dessert wine, by the glass? (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209 Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. Reservations recommended. $$$)

Caf坢 Royal. At intervals during this year, Cafe Royal is putting aside its regular dinner menu and playing host to distinguished chefs from famous European hotel restaurants. Call to inquire-you may find an inexpensive substitute for a jaunt to Paris. Madrid or Vienna. (It’s hard to say what this promotion will do to the standards of Cafe Royal when only the home team is in town.) In any case, the regular staff will prepare lunch as usual, with occasional specials created by the visiting stars. (Plaza of the Americas, 650N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30-2:30; dinner, Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. Reser vahons recommended Jackets and ties required All credit cards. $$$$)

Calluaud. A meal at what has become Dallas’ establishment French restaurant is always an event. The dining room is decked with roses; the diners, with their best attire. Owner/chef Guy Calluaud always keeps some old favorites (such as the lamb with tarragon sauce) on the menu, but he occasionally bursts forth with inspiration and innovation. The salad with smoked fish is brilliant with a gingery dressing, and the hazelnut souffle dazzles as well as satisfies. This is still one of the top restaurants in Dallas. (2619 McKmney. 823-5380 Lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30 Closed Sun Reservations. Jackets and ties required MC, V, AE. DC $$$$)

Caret. Francophiles continue to rally around what may be the one true French bistro (translation: solid French cooking at moderate prices) in town, but we find that the “haute-/ air here can be stifling. Nevertheless, the food is mostly of the highest quality, and for $20 for four courses, who’s complaining? Occasionally, we have hit a sour note: The salmon mousse appetizer, for instance, had an unpleasantly pasty consistency and a canned taste However, a special, calaman (squid), was meltingly tender and sauced to perfection Soups are generally excellent: We love the mussel soup and the potage aux champignon (a soup du jour), and the oxtail soup is hearty without being heavy. All the seafood entrees are honest and well-prepared, but the rib-eye steak, our waiter warned us, “is not much better than you would get at Cork & Cleaver,’ so beware Two huge scoops of homemade sorbet or the chefs puff pastry with vanilla sauce top off a meal handsomely (703 McKinney in The Brewery. 720-0297 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. $$$)



D REVISITS

Chloe. For an ambitious and serious French restaurant, some of Chloe’s marketing techniques seem a little strange. The disco off the entry can be distracting, especially when (as on a recent evening) it’s brimming with a private crowd of boisterous revelers. In more quiet times, the food can be quite elegant. Prawns Chiooe (in a light, white cream sauce with fresh avocado slices afloat) were delicious, as were the escargots. We tried the lamb chops with Dijon mustard and the salmon poached in champagne and seasoned with dill butter. Both were first-rate. Skip the souffle (bland) and head straight for the white chocolate mousse. (8854 N Central Expwy. 361-9996. Mon-Thur 4-10 pm, Fri & Sat 4-11 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)



Clair de Lune. This attractive bistro in the corner of the Quadrangle is a fine place for light fare, especially when you can sit outdoors in the patio area. But when you come inside for more serious eating, Clair de Lune disappoints. On our last visit, everything-soup, appetizer, salad, entr坢e, dessert -was under par. We were especially distressed by a special of the day that was purported to be duck in a saffron sauce but which proved to be unidentifiable, tough slices of meat in a thick, tasteless gravy. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 871-2288. Mon-Thur 9 am-12:30 am, Fri & Sat 9 am-2 am, Sun 11-11. All credit cards. $$)

Ewald’s. The steadfast Ewald is surely one of the lowest-profile chefs on the local dining scene, but he’s also one of the best. The fact that his name is not bandied about in the press is of little consequence to his dedicated flock, which manages to consistently fill his long-established restaurant. They come for Ewald’s rich European dishes and his fine art of preparation (an art that can be viewed through a wide window at the rear of the restaurant). We started with the unusual – and unusually good – fried parsley appetizer. (Share one; the portions are a little larger than you may expect.) Then we moved on to a divine fresh snapper (saut坢ed and sauced with a blend of duxelles and b坢arnaise) and superb beef tournedos that were cooked to pink perfection and topped with artichokes. (5415 W Lovers Lane. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30 pm, Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)



D REVISITS

Enjolie. This place is amazing. It’s clearly one of the top nouvelle cuisine restaurants in the city. We began our meal with delicately poached oysters surrounded by spinach punctuated with decorative slices of red pepper – a visual as well as gastronomic delight. Among the extraordinary entrees we tried were a John Dory souffle with sorrel sauce, salmon wrapped in spinach, and quail and partridge. Among the lovely desserts were a Bavarian cream with raspberry sauce and a trio of fresh sorbets. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel, 221 S Las Colinas Blvd. Irving. 556-0800, ext. 3155. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30- 2:30: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



Francisco’s. This charming bistro in a house off Cedar Springs has only the most classic recipes on its menu. It executes them capably, too, with hits outnumbering misses two to one. We enjoyed the shrimp appetizer in a creamy mushroom sauce much more than the alternative (Delice du Chef), in which shrimp was mixed with crab and snails in a tomatoey sauce. The veal Oscar was perfectly done, with fresh asparagus and a subtle hollandaise; but the chicken in a rather vinegary wine sauce was less appealing. Both desserts we tried, the chocolate mousse cake and the cr?me caramel, were winners. (2917 Fairmount. 749-0906. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations required. MC, V, AE. DC. $$$)

Frenchy Caf坢. The surroundings are very informal in this delicatessen/lunch spot, and the food can be very good. In search of a hot lunch on our last visit, we tried the lasagna and found it rich and slightly sweet. A selection of pat坢s can also make a satisfying meal: The truffle pates are smooth and buttery; the pepper pate, coarser and only a little spicy. If you want to splurge on dessert, the chocolate mousse (flavored with orange and topped with whipped cream and cocoa) is a good bet. But be forewarned: The cost – not to mention the calories – can begin to mount quickly. (5940 Royal Lane. 369-1235. Mon 11 am-3 pm, Tue-Fri 11 am-7 pm, Sat 11 am-5 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V. $$)



D REVISITS

Gall坢. The burgundy velvet banquettes andetched glass partitions of this roomy hotel restaurant contrast oddly with the sounds of honky-tonkpiano from the bar outside, and on a slow night theplace can seem deserted. But the food is preparedexpertly, if not always memorably. The appetizerselection of pat坢s, like all the other dishes here,looks lavish: three differently patterned pat坢s compete for attention with a tomato tulip filled withcaviar. The salads are similarly fantastic: potpourris of Belgian endive, tomatoes, pickled quail eggsand bleu cheese. Our portions of sirloin steak andof Dover sole topped with crab meat and hazelnutsauce were so large that we couldn’t finish them,and they were garnished with a bevy of vegetablesthat included wild asparagus in hollandaise andglazed turnips. (Lincoln Hotel, Lincoln Center, 5410LBJ Frwy. 934-8400. Tue-Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Sun& Mon. Reservations recommended. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$$)

The Grape. We’re ever loyal to The Grape. Its hot, soft bread, classical music, interesting wines by the glass and the best mushroom soup in town are enough to keep us true. But we’re also impressed with the grace and imagination evident in other items served here. Veal topped with toasted peanuts and brown sauce showed confidence and flair on the part of the chef; a generous slice of duck pat坢 was a complicated master blend of seasonings. Even The Grape’s amaretto cheesecake was lighter and more enioyable than the heavy slabs we’re accustomed to finding around town. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



D REVISITS

L’Ambiance. We love this place so much, we’re even becoming convinced that it has atmosphere. Maybe it’s the talented guitarist who plays during dinner that compensates for the crowded tables. Still, it’s the food that has us hooked. On our last visit, the appetizer of noodles in a basil and tomato sauce disappointed us by being overcooked and flavorless, but it was clear sailing from there. The thin slices of poached salmon in a rich green sauce, the crisp sliced duckling in raspberry sauce and the saut坢ed striped bass were without flaw. Don’t skip salad or dessert here; the watercress with bacon and goat cheese, the Concord cake of chocolate and meringue and the Floating Island are all great dishes. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30- 10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



Laurel’s. This penthouse restaurant appeals mightily to the eye. The view is breathtaking, the decor is elegant, and the presentation of each dish is elaboratelyimaginative. The nouvelle-type food may not taste quiteas good as it looks, but it is excellent nonetheless. Theoysters were beautifully poached, and the lamb wascooked to order, but neither of the sauces on the disheswas memorable. The prices, however, are a bit lowerhere than at most restaurants of comparable ambition.(Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit, 385-3000.Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)



D REVISITS

L’Ancestral. We still find this dignified bistro just as charming as we did when it opened last fall. The lentil salad, served warm, is a pleasurable surprise, and the potato- and-leek soup is very French and very satisfying. The roast veal and filet of sole are cooked to perfection. Desserts continue to be a disappointment, but that’s a minor factor compared to everything else-which is superb country French cooking. (5631 Alta. 826- 0006. Tue-Sun 6:30 pm-1 am. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$$)



La Vieille Varsovle (The Old Warsaw). It had been a while since we’d dined at this doyenne of Dallas French restaurants, and we entered somewhat skeptical of some of the claims that have been made for it. But we must admit that this really is one of the best restaurants in town. Every dish we had was flawless: The oysters baked in two different sauces and the salmon in puff pastry were fabulous; the Caesar salad was impeccable; the entrees of sweetbreads and snapper were magnificently cooked. Even the desserts were remarkable – we sampled an airy feuillete filled with fruit and surrounded by raspberry sauce and a perfect Grand Marnier souffle. The only thing the Old Warsaw needs to become a truly great restaurant is a sense of proprietary creation: inventive dishes it can call its own. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$$)

Little Gus’. By now, most of us know that Little Gus’ is really two restaurants – hamburger heaven at noon. Greek delight at night. Somehow, the Greek cuisine here just keeps getting better, and that even goes for the dolmas, which are always heavy with herbs and seasonings and are large enough to serve as a meal. Moussaka, the Greek standard, is cooked better here than anywhere in the city: With layers of eggplant and ground beef in cream sauce, the dish avoids the cloying sweetness found elsewhere. Wine, candlelight and Greek music top off a pleasant evening. (1916 Greenville. 826-4910. Mon-Thur 6-9 pm, Fri & Sat 6-10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

Manhattan. There’s nothing terribly surprising when you enter Manhattan, located in a North Dallas strip shopping center. Unlike some other posh area restaurants, the inside has fairly nondescript decor that looks sort of thrown together at the last minute. But the food, fortunately, is better than the decor. The menu is extensive; the veal and shrimp are especially good, and the vegetables seem to be fresh and well-cooked. But the desserts, for the most part, aren’t worth the calories. (1482 Preston Forest Square. 385-8221. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)

The Mansion. It seems that the Mansion has finally arrived as a purveyor of excellent American nouvelle cuisine. Previously, the elegant surroundings had to carry the whole show, but now the fine food is doing its part, too. At a recent lunch, we found the John Dory on soya pasta with scallions to be a marvelous seafood special. From the regular menu, shrimp with tiny slivers of zucchini basked in a sauce that was subtle and appealing. We couldn’t be happier that this place is at last living up to its press. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room (jackets and ties required, except at brunch)-lunch: MonFri noon-2; brunch: Sat noon-2, Sun 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri-Sun 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Promenade Room-breakfast: daily 7-10:30 am; lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; tea; Mon-Fri 3-5:30 Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



D REVISITS

Maple Street East. The star that has shone on this renovated manse near downtown has dimmed somewhat since we heralded its beginnings almost two years ago. Maple Street East is still a lovely place to dine – if you don’t get stuck in an empty room. But the food is spotty, and we cant quite figure out why. On a recent visit, a starter spinach salad was close to perfect, while the fettuccine Alfredo fell limp and mushy in a deluge of sauce. Our grilled lamb chops were skimpy and charred, but a butterflied filet sauced in red wine was hearty and satisfying. Fresh asparagus-the exquisite skinny variety – was cooked crisp-tender, then covered in a hollandaise that was a watery mess. Desserts were the saving grace, especially an unusual but good blueberry tart. (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$$)



The Prospect Grill. We wanted to thoroughly enjoy our time spent in the chic, mellow atmosphere of this Lowest Greenville Avenue restaurant; unfortunately, we found that there are still a few kinks in the operation. Service is generally good, but it tends to be haphazard. And although a fairly limited menu is supposed to be supplemented by a list of daily specials, at least one specialty in each category (appetizer, entree, dessert) was unavailable when we visited very early in the even. ing. The good news is that the food is extremely well-prepared. If you’re in the mood for something grilled, go for the vegetable brochette or the fresh seafood bro-chette. The grilled entrees include sirloin burger, chicken breast, fresh shrimp, swordfish or tenderloin steak – all cooked over mesquite wood, which lends a rich, smoky flavor to the meat. Several light salads are offered, as well as homemade french fries (fried with onions and served with a tangy tomato sauce for dipping). A vegetable of the day (generally cooked to a crisp perfection) is also offered with each dish. (2100 Greenville. 828-2131. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2 am. Sun 11 am-2 am. AE. $$)

Rolf’s. Since it opened a year ago, Rolfs has established itself as a major presence among Dallas restaurants. The tone is formal without being forbidding, and the food is sophisticated and delicate without betraying its hearty German roots. Even a simple dish like consomme with liver dumplings is memorable, not to mention such complex creations as the appetizer of tiny shrimp and scallops marinated with fresh dill and dill seeds and flecked with tiny bits of tomato and mushroom. Few restaurants treat pork as royally as Rolfs, with its rolled roast stuffed with sauerkraut and herbs. The only disappointment on our last visit was the vaunted apple strudel (it was mushy from being reheated and was doused with too much sauce), but the ethereal cheesecake more than compensated for it. (Caruth Plaza. 9100 N Central Expwy. Suite 117. 696-1933. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11 30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Routh Street Caf坢. With its glossy salmon-and-pearl-gray interior, Routh Street Cafe combines excitement and comfort. A number of lighter dishes are available in the anteroom by the bar, but the main restaurant offers five courses at a fixed price of $35. The concept is American nouvelle Main courses include baby Coho saimon, mesquite-grilled veal or lamb and occasional game choices such as venison. The meats are cooked expertly, but we found the sauces a trifle undersea-soned (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Lounge: Mon-Fri 4:30 pm-2 am. Sat 6 pm-2am. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)



FAR EAST



D REVISITS

August Moon. Every time we go back to this FarNorth Dallas favorite we are more impressed.August Moon offers a variety of really unusualdishes. Among the appetizers are Ming shrimp inChinese pancakes and beef-stuffed dumplings thatare the tastiest in town. Equally exotic is the authentically prepared Eight Treasure Duck, which is firstbaked, then steamed and sauced luxuriously. ButAugust Moon does equally well with standbys suchas egg rolls and sweet-and-sour pork. The qualityhere is hardly a secret, so you can expect a waitduring peak hours. (15030 Preston at Belt Line.385-7227. Mon- Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11,Sat 10:30 am-11 pm, Sun 10:30-10:30. Dim sumserved daily. Reservations for lour or more or lorspecial banquets. Bar by membership. All creditcards. $$)



Chu’s. Friends told us that Chu’s, one of the first restaurants to open on the Addison strip some years ago, is now serving some of the best Canton-style Chinese food in town. They were right. Chu’s soups had a rich, homemade taste, and the chicken with pecans had a subtlety and depth that no one could ever call bland. The spicy dishes, such as the double-cooked pork Szechuan style, were a bit perfunctory, though. Order the Cantonese dishes and prepare for a treat. (15080 Beltway, Addison. 387-1776. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. All credit cards. $$)



D REVISITS

China Inn. From the road, China Inn doesn’t look any classier than the Keller’s Drive-In or the taco fast food joint nearby. But step inside this cracker box. You’ll be relieved to discover that there aren’t any Woolworth-vintage Oriental chandeliers or tacky Chinese plaques adorning the walls. Instead, you’ll find good food in a quiet, pleasant atmosphere. The egg rolls are crisp and tasty; the rice, tender. We were also pleased with our shrimp and sweet-and-sour pork entr坢es. The service was very attentive, even though we were lulled into thinking that our cola refill wouldn’t show up on the bill. (6521 E Northwest Hwy. 369-7733. Mon-Thur 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-11 pm,Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5 pm-1 am, Sat 5 pm-1 am, Sun 11 am-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $)



Forbidden City. Perhaps because it’s named after the royal heart of China, this place definitely tries harder. The waiters and even the manager line the walls of this ambitious Far North Dallas restaurant, making sure that no empty plate lingers on the table and that no glass goes unfilled. But we do wish that they’d relax and smile occasionally and that the food lived up to all the effort. This is good, standard North Chinese stuff – chicken with cashews, beef with snow peas, shrimp with two sauces-all unexceptionable but unexceptional. How about applying some of that hard work to the kitchen? (5290 Belt Line, Suite 144. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30pm. All credit cards. $$)

Joy Inn. Possibly the most popular Chinese restaurant in Dallas, this place can seat a regiment and still serve a meal in record time if you say you’re in a hurry. The appetizer platter, with its tasty egg rolls and tender shrimp, is a good beginning. But don’t stray too far from the Cantonese standbys when you order main courses, since the so-called Hunan dishes are hardly recognizable imitations. Come here when you want good ol’ moo goo gai pan served with a smile. (9404 Ovella at Northwest Hwy. 352-1088. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)



D REVISITS

Fuji-Ya. At first glance, this place seems less traditional than other Japanese restaurants in town. There is no tatami seating, for example, and waitresses are more often dressed in jeans than kimonos. The food, though, is both traditional and excellent. We tried most of the appetizers and found that they were appetizing indeed. Among the entrees, the Shabu Shabu (vegetables and thin slices of beef cooked right at the table) was our favorite. Fuji-Ya also offers “bento” meals, with bits of everything tucked into individual compartments on a lacquered tray. (13050 Coit. 690-8396. Tue & Wed 11 am-10 pm. Thur-Sat 11-11, Sun 5-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)



Ho Ho. No one else in town does a better job with the old favorites. Sweet-and-sour pork is crisp and chewy; egg foo yung, light and rich. Food is taken seriously here, as can be determined from the properly maintained lobster tank. At $16.95, the price of the lobster dinner is a bit steep for a casual evening out, but the other prices at Ho Ho are low for what you get. (3726 W Northwest Hwy. 351-4316. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Kobawoo. The first thing you’ll notice here are the swaying songsters belting out popular Korean tunes – on the video cassette player. The next thing you’ll notice, and with good reason, is the food. Kobawoo has an ambitious menu featuring mostly Korean, Chinese and Japanese dishes. The Oriental staples – won ton, chow mein. tempura – are well-prepared, if not overly stimulating. But there are plenty of exotic offerings to explore. One entree we liked was Wang Gae: Alaskan king crab with vegetables in an egg-based sauce that was spiced just right. The spicing in general, though, ranges from mild to eye-watering hot, so it’s a good idea to inquire before you order. (3109 Inwood at Cedar Springs. 351-6922. Daily 11-11. All credit cards. $$)

La Pagode. Even for those who are familiar with Oriental cooking, the cuisine at this new Vietnamese restaurant will seem exotic indeed. The most interestingthings here come in mysterious edible packages: Thereare the imperial rolls, the excellent won ton found insome of the soups, the wonderful Vietnamese crepesand “pressed rice,” a soft, pancakelike doily in whichmeat and vegetables are wrapped. The fillings come ingreat variety, too. and include a wonderful barbecuedpork. All these items come garnished with an endlessarray of fresh herbs. (4302 Bryan. 821-4542. Mon-Thur11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No creditcards; personal checks accepted. $)

Mr. Sushi. Dallas’ newest Japanese restaurant, MrSushi, offers an authentic sushi bar: a counter behindwhich several formidable Japanese men wield vicious-looking knives to slice hunks, cubes and slivers of rawfish. The large blocks of fish, along with tentacles of octopus, squid, shrimp and salmon eggs, sit meticulously wrapped in plastic in refrigerated cases atop the bar.If a bar whose sole purpose is to divvy up raw fishdoesn’t excite you, maybe it’s just because you haven’tbeen brave enough to try it. This is the place to experiment with tuna (which is as tender as the best rare beef)or yellowtail. which is softer and richer. Octopus andabalone may be too chewy for most American tastes,but most explorers will find something to like with thebright, refreshing taste of the marinated rice, spicypickled ginger and incredibly pungent green horse-adish. Mr. Sushi also does a very good job with thestandard cooked Japanese items. (The Quorum, 4860Bell Line, Addison. 385-0168. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun5:30-10. All credit cards. $$)

The New Big Wong. Let’s not belabor the obvious. If you’re looking for pleasant, quick service; cheap, hefty lunches; a voluminous dinner menu that both challenges and delights; crunchy, colorful vegetables; interesting decor; tanks full of eels and turtles (talk about fresh); and baffling music that changes daily, try the Big Wong. (2121 S Greenville. 821-4199. Daily 11 am-3 am. MC, V, AE. $$)

Peking China. This restaurant in the middle of Singles-ville in the Park Lane area advertises itself as the first place in town to serve authentic Mandarin cuisine. Actually, the menu and the cooking are hardly distinguishable from a couple dozen other Chinese places in town. But Peking China is a very creditable and friendly neighborhood restaurant. The Mandarin Beef we sampled had an interesting crinkled texture, with tons of black and red hot peppers and a hint of vinegar in the sauce. The braised shrimp in a gingery sauce were marvelously soft – the texture that the Chinese call “live.” For dessert, we tried the sugar-spun apples – here. they’re served authentically, with the coating hardened by a short swim in ice water. (7001 Fair Oaks. 369-2737. Lunch: daily 11-3; dinner: daily 5-11. V, AE. $$)

Peking Szechuan. The food and service here more than make up for the odd location and lack of decor. The hospitable, knowledgeable waitresses push several of the house specialties – and they clearly know what the kitchen does well. The Seafood Delight was a delicately cooked assortment of brightly colored vegetables amid shrimp and scallops. The beef with orange peel had a wonderfully crunchy coating under the hot, sweet sauce. We intend to go back and test the waitress’s contention that the chef can cook the whole repertory of Chinese dishes just as well. (2560 W Northwest Hwy. 353-0129. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri-Sun 11:30-11:30. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

D REVISITS

Plum Blossom. The simplicity of the surroundings here bespeaks elegance, and the careful service contributes to the peaceful atmosphere as well. The menu offers a choice among elaborate set dinners that range in price from $20 to $27.50 (with a smattering of a la carte offerings alongside). We splurged on the most expensive and were served delicious scallops in a potato nest, a Chrysanthemum Firepot (a tureen of rich broth in which all kinds of meat and vegetables cook), Peking duck and other treasures. The meal was satisfying except for the chicken and banana roll in a sweet-and-sour sauce (which tasted as unappetizing as it sounds) and the lychee sherbet. (Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)



Sakura. In Japanese, Sakura means “cherry blossom.” Ironically, cherry blossoms are about the only Japanese element not included in this restaurant’s authentic setting. Until recently, Sakura also offered Chinese and Korean dishes; now the restaurant apparently is concentrating on what it knows best. On a recent visit, we sampled the gyoza (fried, meat-filled dumplings), which were a tad greasy but were still among the best in town. The highlight of our meal was the Yose Nabe: fish, shrimp and octopus cooked with vegetables and tofu in broth. Also noteworthy was the chicken teriyaki, which had just the right touch of sweetness. And we liked the sauces that accompanied the gyoza and tem-pura; both were understated, as they should be. The service was exemplary – the kind that every restaurant should (but often doesn’t) have. (7402 Greenville. 361 -9282. Mon-Thur & Sun 5:30-11 pm. Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended on weekends. All credit cards. $$)

Sawatdee. You can definitely Thai one on at this place, one of Dallas’ most attractive Asian restaurants. The hot dishes are plenty fiery, but otherwise the tastes here seem toned down in comparison to those of Sawatdee’s competitors. We enjoyed several first-rate novelties on our last visit. The Sawatdee Oyster, for instance, contrasts the crunch of the lacy batter around the oysters with the crunch of bean sprouts, and the Panang Beef is served in a sauce heady with the flavor of lime leaves. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. dinner daily 5-10:30. All credit cards. $$)

Shangri-La. Despite the name, this is no newly discovered hidden paradise, but a very pleasant (if unremarkable) new Chinese restaurant in far Far North Dallas that extends the possibility of good Oriental food farther north of town than ever before. The San Shien soup was a satisfying beginning, with tender shrimp and meat (strips of beef substituted for the usual ham) as well as crisp vegetables. The fried dumplings were excellent; the egg rolls, crisply fried but filled too heavily with cabbage instead of more expensive things. All the main dishes were tasty, too. The spicy Szechuan ones (including pork in garlic sauce and hot and spicy shrimp) had interesting sour rather than sweet overtones. (17194 Preston at Campbell. Suite 115. 380-1988. Daily 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Siam Orchid. When a new owner took over Siam (the defunct Thai restaurant that had long been one of the top Asian restaurants in town), he kept the menu and some of the staff intact. But we still detect some changes: The service seems to be a bit more efficient and helpful, and the food is still good, though not quite as exciting as before. Some of our old favorites, such as the sliced beef salad and pud Thai (a delicious, unpretentious dish of noodles sauced with sprouts, shrimp and ground peanuts), somehow taste earthier. And the pork sate (strips of meat broiled on a skewer) has a softer, almost mealy texture. Siam Orchid is a very fine restaurant, but with so many new Thai places in town, it’s not the place of pilgrimage its predecessor was, and its prices now seem rather high for what you get. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon- Thur 5-10,Fr i& Sat 5-11. All credit cards. $$$)

Taiwan. This ranks as one of the top Chinese restaurants in town as much for its elegantly appointed surroundings and careful service as for its excellent food. The cold appetizer plate- with sliced beef, smoked fish and slivers of chicken in a spicy sauce-is an authentic way to begin a Chinese meal. Seafood and vegetables receive especially nice treatments here, and the smoked duck is exceptional. (4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$)

Tea Pot Inn. The striking thing about Tea Pot Inn (aside from its subtle, tasteful decor) is just how well the chef executes the old standbys. When was the last time you had a perfectly cooked egg roll with a light, crisp shell and a meaty filling that wasn’t mostly stale-tasting cabbage? The chef at the Tea Pot Inn is Cantonese, but unlike a lot of chefs from South China, he really knows how to cook the spicy Szechuan dishes as well. The shrimp with bean curd is one of the city’s best hot and spicy dishes. If you don’t like spicy food, try the beautifully browned fried dumplings or the Wor Sue Duck. The service is amiable; the prices, exceptionally reasonable. (11343 N Central Expwy. 369-6268 Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. $$)

Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. The magisterial Chinese chef, who flies in from Houston each week to check on his Dallas location, seems to be doing a good job of keeping up quality long-distance. Uncle Tai’s Beef is the single most virtuosic Chinese dish around; the surface of the meat, after a complex series of soakings and cookings, boasts a texture as rich as a medieval tapestry. All the food is likely to be excellent, but the total dining experience is rather austere in this crowded nook high above the Galleria’s ice skating rink. And just try to dissuade your waiter from dividing up the portions and taking away the service plates-all communication barriers descend with the request. (The Galleria, Suite 3370, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)



GOURMET CARRYOUT



Marty’s. Our dream is to be able to afford to do all of our grocery shopping at this granddaddy-of-’em-all gourmet carryout shop. Specialty foods from around the world are offered here: scores of imported cheeses, homemade pat坢s and carryout entr坢es such as duckling, pasta (the tortellini is superb), aged meats, smoked meats and a variety of French specialties. The desserts (mostly pastries) are scrumptious; the cheesecake (which comes in a variety of flavors) is extra special. Marty’s is the perfect place to pick up everything – appetizers, entrees, desserts, coffee and wine-and then take it all home and pretend you made it yourself. (3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Mon-Sat Wam-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, Marty’s charge. $$)

Miraballe. Located in the heart of Highland Park Village, this gourmet takeout shop is a feast for the eye – and the palate. Pinky-peach walls and wicker baskets laden with croissants and imported jams soften the high-tech look of chrome counters; and just looking at the neat rows of boxed biscuits, tins and full wine racks is a delicious experience. But don’t stop there: A world of freshly prepared delights awaits you. Offerings change periodically: On our last visit, we sampled salmon mousse; a heavenly chicken salad; crisp, delicately spiced carrots and zucchini; and two kinds of prepared salads – one with pasta and a chunky potato salad. (And do save room for desserts-the goodies are out of this world.) Given the quality of the food, Mirabelle’s prices are very reasonable. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 73-74. 528-7589. Tue-Sat 10:30 am-7 pm; Sun & Mon noon-6 pm. MC. V, AE. $$)

Uptown Dell. It seems that our appetite for gourmet-to-go is insatiable: Yet another chic little takeout place-cum-caterer has opened on lower McKinney. Not to sound blas坢, but there are the usual oh-so-trendy salads, a quiche of the day and sandwich fare on croissants. You’ll find some novel twists, however: hot Mexicana panuchos (flour tortillas packed with cheese, ham and stick-to-the-ribs refritos) and a special “San Francisco-style” (whatever that is) entree each day. The sweets reflect the same care and quality as everything else; we especially like the rich, thick cheesecake. But why, oh why, do they have to close at 3 pm? (2404 McKinney. 871-7120. Mon-Fri 10 am-3 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)



INDIAN



Kebab ’N’ Kurry. You can’t buy better Indian food than the last dinner we had here. The flaky fried-pastry appetizers (samosas) filled with meat and peas and pakoras of cauliflower and eggplant were light and delicate. The main dishes balanced beautifully. We tried boti kebab (lamb) that was fork-tender, korma (chicken) drenched in cream and fresh coriander, eggplant and potatoes in a mild curry sauce. The Indian desserts were rich and flavorful, too. This place is a leading candidate for the best bargain in the city. (401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300, Richardson, 231-5556; 220 Walnut Hill Lane. 350-6466. Lunch: daily 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30 Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $)



D REVISITS

Tanjore. Indian food is still an adventure for most Dallas folks, and a meal here is a delight to explore. Settle into the calming apricot -colored environs, accustom your ears to the Hindi music and begin sampling the Tanjore Tray, a selection of lightly fried meats and vegetables. Beef magulai. murg mussa-lam and shrimp masala are three entrees that show off the breadth of the unfamiliar and the variety of combinations of curry, coriander and other Eastern spices that our culture neglects. Enjoy the different meat, chicken and lamb dishes with saffron rice, and close the meal with mango lassi (a kind of Indian ice cream) or a Tanjorita. a smooth yogurt drink. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 5409 Belt Line. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: daily 6-10; brunch; Sat & Sun 11:30-3. Bar membership available. All credit cards. $$)



ITALIAN



Adriano’s. A pizza isn’t just a pizza anymore. The owners of Adriano’s have seen to it that |usl about anything – from escargots, chicken, shrimp and crab to more ordinary toppings such as pepperoni and ricotta cheese – make for a proper pizza pie. An excellent roast chicken and a creamy fettuccine Alfredo are also available for non-pizza lovers. The atmosphere is cool and breezy; the service, laid-back and friendly. (The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh. 871-2262. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat 6 pm-2 am. Sun 4-8. MC, V, AE $)

Bugatti. Since we’re the ones who did much to trump the old Bugatti. it’s never pleasant to have to rein in our praise. But our last expenence was definitely a downer. Under the new ownership of Ross Segal (“Mario has gone back to Spain”), Bugatti has retained the old chef, the menu, the location – the works – but something is missing. Maybe it’s the frantic pace of the service, or the fact that the fettuccine delia casa comes already heaped with grated cheese. These are surface complaints, it’s true. But worse was the fact that the veal was mealy and tough, the gamberoni shrimp so overrun with a cloying sherry cream sauce as to be almost inedible. One standout remains steadfast, though: the cool, cool cappuccino pie. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)

Campisi’s. The legend of this dimly lit Mockingbird landmark is one of the first ones that a Dallas newcomer hears. It is the story of hot, floury-crusted, four-star pizza loaded with ingredients and cut into rectangular slices. But save for an occasional delicious artichoke heart, we’ve found it wise to stick to enjoying Campisi’s pizza and reputation – the rest of the menu would best be forgotten. The lasagna tasted canned and, like the veal, was drenched in a nasty all-purpose sauce. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight. Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations lor six or more. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $$)

Ciaol The pink and blue neon sign in the circular window of this small restaurant hints at its high-tech interior, but inside, you’ll find the place surprisingly warm and intimate. Although a few delicious-sounding pasta and veal dishes were listed as dinner specials, we opted for the Ciao specialty we’d heard friends rave about: pizza. We tried one with Italian sausage and crushed red peppers and another with thinly sliced onions and black olives, and we found both to be exceptional. But our personable waitress clued us in on our favorite version: pizza topped with spinach saut坢ed in garlic butter. Ciao for now, but we’ll be back. (3921 Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Daily noon-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS

Cremona. Tucked away on a side street off Cedar Springs, Cremona is a restaurant with no pretensions. A typical luncheon menu might offer one appetizer (saut坢ed mushrooms with garlic), a wide choice of pastas and a single lackluster chicken dish. Among the pastas, the tortellini was delicate and rich; the lasagna, good but unprepossessing. Although we don’t usually like flavored cheesecake, the one here with amaretto is a fine end to a meal. In nice weather, Cremona’s sunny patio is a pleasant place to dine. (2600 Woodrow between Cedar Springs and Routh. 742-4330. Lunch: Mon- Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)



Fablo’s. This classy-looking spot hidden away in the rear of The Corner Shopping Center has the most imaginative Italian menu in town. You couldn’t find more original or delicious appetizers than the ones served here: mushrooms on a bed of barely cooked fresh spinach or tender snails with sliced artichokes in a subtly flavored sauce. The other dishes we tried were also based on good ideas, but they weren’t executed as well. The shrimp in cardinale sauce was slightly overcooked, and the veal in a sauce made with ground nuts and sherry was overpoweringly sweet. A novel assortment of vegetables was so undercooked that it was almost raw. The spuma di zabaglione, though, was a dessert worthy enough to make us forget the previous inconsistencies, and the careful, personal service made Fabio’s one of the best Italian dining experiences around. (The Corner Shopping Center, Suite 504. 9820 N Central Expwy. 987-3226. Sun & Tue-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Ferrari’s. This newest addition to the burgeoning restaurant row in the West End warehouse district may be Dallas’ best Italian restaurant. The pasta here is magnificent; the paglio e fieno (hay and straw) and the lasagna, equally perfect. The kitchen seems to be a fountain of heavy cream, butter, egg yolks and cheese. The scal-oppine alia valdostana and the tender shrimp float in similar ivory sauces mixed with fresh sliced mushrooms. (1713 Market. 741-5538 Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AS. US)



D REVISITS

II Sorrento. With its showy, intricate re-creation of an Italian piazza. II Sorrento has long been a favorite Dallas dining spot. Even on a weeknight there can be crowds, and since the restaurant doesn’t take reservations on weekends, there’s almost always a wait. While the food is not sensational, it’s easy to see the appeal of the place. The menu is huge, with house specialties such as shrimp Diane (in a buttery sauce flecked with scallions) and veal zingara (meaning “gypsy-style’) with ham and mushrooms. The desserts were the best part of our last meal here: a rum cake with cream and orange rind and a dense, bittersweet chocolate mousse. (8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Sun-Fri 5:30-11 pm. Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)



La Pranzo. The salad of mozzarella, tomatoes and zucchini with basil dressing would make a delicious light lunch in itself. Sfinciuni, much like a delicate, double-doughed pizza encasing a hearty filling of either cheese and vegetables or sausage and ham, was delicious. But the restaurant has already sparked a reputation of being too slow for anyone with hopes of returning to work with time left in the day, and on our first visit, the service was confused to the point of being comical. (SPG Building. 1530 Main. 2nd floor 698-0493. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. All credit cards. $$$)

La Trattoria Lombardi. More than any other type of food, Italian cuisine sets a mood, and Lombardi’s hot, creamy pasta manages to warm and relax you and make life in general seem considerably more pleasant. At La Trattoria, quiet music, brick archways and traditionally good-natured and competent service completed the spell that began when we sampled several appetizers. Carpaccia (perfectly spiced, paper-thin slices of juicy raw beef served with capers and light Dijon mustard) practically dissolved in our mouths. But the veal with sweetbreads and the chefs own recipe for homemade green lasagna were the crowning glories of the evening. (2916 Hall. 823-6040; 528-7506. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



D REVISITS

Pietro’s. For an unpretentious Italian dinner at unpretentious prices, you cant improve on Pietro’s. The restaurant serves mostly fare from Southern Italy. The basic pastas are reliable, and the salad is crisp and nicely enhanced by green peppers. The specials are usually pleasant, and the garlic bread is so temptingly loaded with butter, garlic and parsley that it’s hard to stick to just one big slice of it. Although it’s not playing in the super sweepstakes of some of the newer, higher-flying Italian restaurants in town, this neighborhood, family-run establishment is still a favorite of many who have frequented it for years. (5722 Richmond. 824-9403. Tue-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. MC, V. $$)



Mario’s. One of Dallas’ oldest and most loved expensive restaurants, Mario’s falls between the Italian and continental categories. A number of pasta dishes are beautifully prepared, but it’s hard to communicate to the otherwise very helpful waiters that you want them served before (rather than as accompaniments to) a main dish. The various veal and fish dishes we’ve tried here over the years have all been competently prepared, but we have always left Mario’s feeling more comforted than excited. (Turtle Creek Village, Suite 135, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135 Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)

Piccolo Mondo. This interesting new Italian restaurant advertises itself as serving Adriatic cuisine, but the menu is standard Northern Italian. The important thing here is that the cooking is excellent in its hearty, forthright style – from the appetizers to the desserts. The scampi are delectable in their garlic-butter sauce. Half orders of pasta are available for $4.50, and the tortellini and cannelloni are extraordinary. The veal in the various scaloppini dishes is of good quality; the sauces, thick and forceful. Outstanding desserts include the cannoli and the cr?me caramel – old standbys, to be sure, but executed better here than elsewhere. The service was up to the level of the food All in all, Piccolo Mondo may not offer any revelations or gaudy new inventions, but we wish every restaurant did this well when concentrating on the fundamentals. (9507 Over-lake Drive. 357-2983. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-11. Fri & Sat 5 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)

Ristorante La Bella. It’s time for us to quit looking down our noses at suburbia when it can boast a place like La Bella. Comfortable yet classy. La Bella may not be worth a drive from Oak Lawn, but if you live in the northern reaches of our world, this place should become a regular part of your work week. La Bella’s hot antipasto tray, a kaleidoscopic collection of meaty mushrooms, artichoke hearts and other things valu-able, is particularly noteworthy. At first, we were overwhelmed by La Bella’s enormous menu, but except for some rather commonplace desserts and a measly serv-ing of veal, everything we tried was better thanaverage. The pasta was hot and well-spiced; the winelist, though not ambitious, was nevertheless complete.(6757 Arapaho. 991-2828. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Riatorante Lombardi. The tile floors and Italian-accented (and occasionally condescending) waiterslend this place a certain cachet. The food is mostly thereal thing, too, although it’s executed with varying levelsof perfection. At our last meal, the most successful itemswere the tortellini with a rich chicken filling and thedesserts (a Grand Marnier souffle and a nut-filled rumcake). The least successful was a gummy, odd-tastingveal in a sauce flavored with orange. At these prices,we would expect a meal to consistently deliver at thehigher end of the quality scale. (15501 Dallas Pkwy inAdelstein Plaza. 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. ClosedSun. All credit cards. $$$)

Serpico. A Best Western hotel on Industrial Boulevard is the last place you would expect to find a good Italian restaurant, but the food here can be excellent. Among the pastas, try linguini in white clam sauce or the shells stuffed with ricotta. Perhaps the best entree is the chicken scarpariello, saut坢ed with peppers and strong Mediterranean olives. The fritta mista (mixed, deep-fried seafood) is disappointing, except for the chewy rings of squid. (Best Western Inn-Market Center. 2023 N Industrial. 741-5041. Breakfast: daily 7-10:30; lunch: daily 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri-Sun 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$)

Sergio & Luciano. Our last several visits have shown Sergio & Luciano to be at top form – and that is formidable. The pastas, in particular, have been expertly prepared. Our favorites among the regular menu offerings are the tortellini stuffed with chicken and the Panieri dello Chef (a pastry shell with seafood in a cream sauce served on a leaf of radicchio). Among the specials, the linguini jardiniere-with broccoli, carrots and mushrooms in olive oil -is a marvelous way to enjoy somepasta and eat your vegetables at the same time.Among the other dishes, the shrimp in champagnesauce is a standout. (The Quorum, 4900 Belt Line, Suite250. 387-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner:Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10. All creditcards. $$$)

Via Veneto. In the former quarters of Sergio’s, under the same ownership and with the same phone number, Via Veneto really is a new restaurant – with a new menu and new ambitions to match. Many of the antipasto dishes are based on shellfish. Perhaps the best is a dish of large scallops tossed with strips of peppers and slices of black olive. When it comes to pasta dishes, almost all are available either in smaller portions as first courses or as main courses. It’s hard to choose among the spinach ravioli in a fresh-tasting tomato puree, the tortellini in a richly colored sauce, the fettuccine with mushrooms and ham and the tagliarini tossed with bits of fresh clams. The most promising entrees are those from the grill: The thick veal chop, still on its bone, came off the fire at just the right moment, showing just a blush of pink when sliced. But the service is less than attentive. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 742-3872. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations for dinner only. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)



MEXICAN



Caf坢 Cancun. We’re not so sure that this is the best Mexican restaurant in town anymore (perhaps expansion to three locations has compromised quality a bit), but Caf坢 Cancun does serve many excellent dishes, from the charming appetizer of julienne jicama (a mild-tasting root vegetable) to the rich desserts. The tampi-quena steak comes with an excellent enchilada and other side dishes, but the mole sauce on the chicken tasted as though the chef had taken the common shortcut of using a prepared mix of spices rather than starting from scratch. The Caruth Plaza location is decorated nicely enough, but it’s too crowded to be trulycharming. (Caruth Plaza, Park Lane at Central Expwy,369-3712; 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011; Plaza of theAmericas. 650 N Pearl. 969-0244. Mon-Thur 11-11; Fri& Sat 11 am-midntght, Sun noon- 10 pm at Caruth Plaza;Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30pm, Fri 11 am-11:30 pm. Sat 5pm-11:30 pm, Sun noon-10 pm at Lomo Alto; Mon-Fri11 am-7 pm at Plaza of the Americas. MC, V, AE. $$)

Cantu’s. This old North Dallas standby has movedmuch farther north and – judging from the crowd thenight we went – has taken its loyal clientele with it. Can-tu’s offers Tex-Mex with no surprises; it’s rather bland forsome tastes, but dependable. The beef enchiladas aremeaty-just right for introducing a newcomer from theNorth to the mysteries of Tex-Mex. The char-broiledspecialties such as chicken and shrimp are similarlyplain but honest – except for the beef fajitas, which areso heavily marinated as to be unpleasant. The serviceis earnest and pleasant; the decor, a bit sophisticated. (5290 Belt Line. Addison. 991-9105. Tue-Thur 11am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon.All credit cards. $$)

Casa Rosa. We’re happy for the folks at Casa Rosa-business, apparently, couldn’t be better. We’re unhappy, though, with the way the management is handling the restaurant’s success. People waiting to eat can either stand in a small, usually crowded entrance hall or squeeze into a tiny bar, Once seated, they encounter experienced, friendly but extremely scatterbrained and slow service. But we understand why people are willing to put up with these and other problems; The food here is very good. The mixed appetizer plate of nachos and fajitas is a wonderful way to get a sampling of Tex-Mex specialties. The entrees are offered in good combinations, and the fajitas are some of the best in Dallas. Seafood specialties are also a treat. (Inwood Village. Suite 165, Inwood at Lovers Lane. 350-5227. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10. Fri 5-11. Sat & Sun noon-10. All credit cards. $$)

Escondido. If we called this place a “dive” in the literal sense, Escondido would make your ears pop. But don’t despair when you see Escondido’s ramshackle white frame exterior or its late-New York subway interior. The Tex-Mex food is superior, the chips are just greasy enough, and the servings are massive considering the price. But skip the chalupas. and don’t be too critical of the basic nachos. You aren’t here for anything chichi (although the mushroom enchiladas are quite good); you’re here for extraordinary beans, rice, tamales and tacos. (2210 Butler. 631-9912. Lunch: daily 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. No credit cards. $)

Genaro’s Tropical. This is Mexican food with a different spirit: upbeat, New Wave, jazzy. Latin and hot! Genaro’s takes the notion of stretching our palates with border delicacies even farther than Caf坢 Cancun by adding irresistible nuggets of fresh seafood to how-can-you-miss favorites like enchiladas, tacos and nachos. The pez espada (swordfish kebab) is truly outstanding, as are the tacos al carbon and the enchiladas Genaro. The shrimp dishes, though tasty, are a bit light on the shrimp. But nothing really misses here, not even traditional Tex-Mex. One complaint: For a large room, the tables seem a tad small. (5815 Live Oak. 827-9590. Mon-Thur 5-10:30 pm; Fri 5-11:30 pm, Sat & Sun 11 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Herrtra. The most outstanding characteristic of this pleasantly dumpy Tex-Mex house is its smallness. Hot hot sauce, greaseless tacos and dynamite flour tortillas may draw hungry crowds to Herrera. but you can bet that the masses don’t sit down to sup together – there isn’t room. But if you don’t mind a line and guaranteed tight quarters, if you’re looking for authenticity and for fresh, high-quality ingredients, and if your tongue is flame-retardant, then head for Herrera. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed & Thur 9 am-B pm, Fri-Sun 9 am-10 pm. Closed Tue. No credit cards. $)

J. Pepe Gonzalez. This fancy new Mexican restaurant in the Quadrangle is not for purists (the margaritas are sweetish, and the food doesn’t have much zing to it), but there seems to be an infinitely expandable market for safe, responsibly prepared Mexican specialties. The combination plates provide lots of variety-there are several with excellent sour cream chicken enchiladas as well as the ones made with beef. Probably the most unusual offerings among the more authentic Mexican dishes are the shrimp-and-spinach enchiladas. They aren’t particularly exciting, but it was nice to know that we were getting our daily quota of green vegetables. Polio a la Pepe (grilled breast of chicken) and the Car-nitas dinner (with three baked pork burritos) were substantial and tasty. (The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh. 871 -0366. Mon- Thur 11 am-2:30 pm and 5:30- 10 pm, Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-11 pm. Sat 11-11, Sun noon-9 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. We love the old-time Tex-Mex recipesthat Joe T. brought over from Fort Worth; none of yourfancy, exotic or newfangled dishes here. Just homemade tacos fried right in the shell, cheesy-gooey enchiladas, flavorful rice and rich-tasting beans, all servedfamily-style on an all-you-can-eat standard dinner. Butwe do wish that Joe T. would do something about theunpleasant smell of cooking oil that pervades the roomand lessens the pleasure of the fresh-from-the-stovetostadas. Not even the carefully cooked food nor theattentive service can compensate for that smell. (4440 Belt Line. Addison. 458-7373. Mon-Fri 11 am-3pm&5-11 pm. Sat 11-11, Sun 11:30 am-10 pm. MC,V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS

La Calle Doce. This comfortable Oak Cliff restaurant serves excellent Tex-Mex and a wide range of more authentic specialties. We’ve had the best luck with beef dishes. The carnitas tarn-piquenas, though uncharacteristically cooked with soy sauce, are delicious, as is the stewlike guiso. The accompanying beans, rice and flour tortillas are memorable, too. Our only big disappointment was a slightly fishy snapper Veracruzana. (415 12th St. 941-4304. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat 11:30 am-10pm, Sun 11:30 am-8 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



Mariano’s. This is neither hole-in-the-wall Tex-Mex nor “gourmet” Mexican, but something all its own. Enjoy the unpretentious but gracious surroundings and the polished service as you run the gamut from an unusually well-stuffed chile relleno to steak Milanesa and pech-uga a la parilla (breast of chicken char-broiled with a delicious mist of garlic butter and cilantro). (Old Town, 5500 Greenville at Lovers Lane. 691-3888. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-11 pm, Sun 11:30 am-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Mario & Alberto. This country cousin of Chiquita (weuse-the term “country” loosely; the restaurant is locatedacross from Valley View Center in North Dallas) is apeach of a place in which to sample non-traditionalMexican cuisine in enchantingly pastel surroundings.New additions to Mario & Alberto’s menu (which isalready peppered nicely with selections of chicken andseafood) include Polio Ranchero, a delicious dish ofdiced chicken and saut坢ed vegetables, and Shrimp alAjillo, a serving of meaty shrimp cooked and served inhalf shells. The usual Tex-Mex offerings (we sampled abeef enchilada and retried beans a la carte) were alsoenjoyable. For appetizers, both the chicken nachos(thoughtfully served with jalapenos on the side) and theguacamole were excellent; for dessert, the Kahlua pieand the cinnamon ice cream are sure bets. (PrestonValley Shopping Center, Suite 425, LBJ Frwy atpreston. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri& Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $4membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mexico. This newest Shannon Wynne creation has a wonderfully non-hi-tech, eclectic style, with carved angels and chili-pepper light bulbs hanging from the ceiling and jars of crayons on the tables so that diners can draw on the butcher-paper table coverings (remi-niscent of Un, Deux, Trois in New York). The menu is eclectic, too, with Mexican versions of rabbit and squid. The problem here is that much of the food doesn’t taste as good as it sounds. The safest bets are the mixed nachos (topped with everything, including chicken mol坢) and the Polio Carlos (chicken in a Yucatecan sauce). If as much trouble had been taken with the execution of the food as with the conception of the restaurant, this would be a wonderful place. (2911 Routh. 760-8639. Sun, Tue & Wed 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Thur-Sat 11:30-11:30. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$)

Moctezuma’s. A few blocks down from its old location, the new Moctezuma’s has lots of space and a patio out front – great for sunny days if you can stand all the dust from the nearby construction. The food, starting with great chips and hot hot sauce, can be excellent. The appetizer plate is grandiose, with flautas and spinach quesadillas in addition to the usual guacamole and nachos. The standard Tex-Mex, including homemade tamales, is fine, but the many specialty dishes deserve the name the restaurant gives itself: “gourmet Mexican.” The carnitas of pork, wrapped in a flour tortilla, are delicate and come with a sauce in which lots of fresh cilantro is floating. (3202 McKinney. 559-3010. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat lull menu 11 am-11:30 pm; appetizers 11:30 pm-12:30 am. Reservations for parties of six or more. All credit cards. $$)

Raphael’s. We had almost given up on the old locations of Raphael’s on McKinney and on Greenville, but the new place on the Addison strip seems to embody the virtues that once made Raphael’s the top Mexicanrestaurant in town. The food is good, from a simpleplate of enchiladas to such complexities as carnitas ofbeef, grilled shrimp with lots of garlic and chickenbreast covered with cheese and lots of cooked freshpeppers, onions and olives. Even more refreshing is thesolicitous service we encountered at the new Belt Linelocation (the waiters at the older ones sometimes haveseemed to be competing for new levels of churlishness). Our only problem with the new spot is thateveryone else in North Dallas seems to have discovered it too. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640; 6782Greenville. 692-8431; The Quorum, 4900 Belt Line,991-3610. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-3 pm & 5:30-10:30 pm,Sat noon-10:30 pm at McKinney location; Mon-Thur11:30 am-3 pm & 5:30-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-3 pm & 5:30pm-10:30 pm. Sat noon-11 pm at Greenville and BeltLine locations. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only, MC, V, AE, CB. $$)



D REVISITS

Rio Grande Grill. This is the south-of-the-border branch of the Bennigan’s school Fresh, crisp tortilla chips are served gratis with hot queso sauce. Flautas, fajitas and chimichangas are made with fresh beef and chicken, and good service isn’t in short supply. But, as with any restaurant whose menu begins with nachos and ends seven pages later with ice cream drinks, nothing is extraordinary. Save Rio Grande for those times when only a fern-bar fiesta will do. (5111 Greenville 692-9777. Sun-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-1 am. MC, V, AE. DC.$$)



D REVISITS

Rosita’s. Rosita’s sits on the edge of the Maple Avenue Hispanic district, both geographically and metaphorically. The neighborhood patrons and the North Dallas tourists, with a full spectrum of Dallasites in between, make up a thoroughly eclectic crowd here. This restaurant’s universal appeal comes from its longstanding success at producing simple, well-prepared Tex-Mex standards, served by an efficient and courteous staff for a reasonable price The atmosphere is that of a south-of-the-border bar in a Grade-B Western, and pictures of such infamous outlaws as Pancho Villa. Geronimo and Willie Nelson make you feel obliged to order a bottle of mescal (or something equally revolutionary) from the fully stocked cantina. This is a great place for Texans to get their weekly taco/en-chilada fix. (4906 Maple. 521-4741. Tue-Fri 7 am-10 pm.Sat & Sun 9 am- 10 pm, Mon 7 am-2:30 pm. V, MC, AE. $)



SEAFOOD



Atlantic Cat坢. With its etched glass and elegant stone floors, this new seafood restaurant has a chic air and a glamorous clientele. You may well have a wait, but you will also have some marvelous food. Among the first courses, the ceviche of shrimp and scallops is the standout, and the baked oysters and the exquisite tomato and fresh mozzarella salad are also memorable. Our salmon steak was perfecftly broiled, with a crunchy exterior and juicy interior, and our saut坢ed scallops; were delightfully sauced. The angel-hair pasta with seafood was a pleasant change of pace for those not in the mood for fish by itself, and there is an arnpe selection of veal and beef offerings, too. (4546 McKin-ney at Knox. 559-4441. Lunch; daily 11-2:30; dinner-Sun-Thur 5 30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Aw Shucks. You can enjoy open-air dining on the shucks or squeeze into this tiny oyster bar and stand-up eatery for large fantail shrimp, authentic gumbo, and fried oysters that are tasty but small. That’s the only drawback here: The meals are simple and good, but the portions are skimpy and padded with trench fries. If you like oysters on the half shell, don’t miss the horseradish – its shotgun kick will quickly clear your sinuses. (3601 Greenville. 821-9449. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:45 pm, Sun noon-9 pm, No credit cards. $)

Boston Sea Party. Quantity rather than quality is whatyou pay your hefty $22.95 (fixed price) for here. Severalof the dozens of mostly seafood items on the all-you-can-eat buffet tables are good enough to devour enmasse-we found ourselves especially fond of the kingcrab legs and the hot popovers. And there’s even a decent (and again, hefty) cooked-to-order course of lobster, salmon or steak. But far too many of the dishes hada bland, standardized style and a bitter aftertaste suggesting the Deepfreeze for us to take too much pleasure in all this bounty. (13444 Preston. 239-7061. Mon-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-10 pm. Sun 4:30-9 pm. Allcredit cards. $$$$)

Caf坢 Oceana. The look hasn’t changed much since Piafs became Caf坢 Oceana; we still like the spacious, airy feeling and the crisp green of the plants against white and wood tones. The specialty now is seafood. It isn’t bad, but we wish it were better. Among the array of appetizers, we tried the gumbo (too thick for our tastes), the boiled shrimp (too bland) and the oysters Rockefeller (which tasted as though they had been cooked in a simple sauce of mock hollandaise and frozen spinach). The main courses showed a bit more talent in the kitchen. The fried fish (especially the catfish) was very well-prepared; the barbecued shrimp, cooked on a brochette in a tomatoey barbecue sauce, were fine for those who like their seafood on the sweet side. The side dishes varied from creditable fried potatoes to one of the oddest coleslaws we’ve ever had – dressed in a reddish sauce that smacked of horseradish. (4517 Travis. 526-3730. Lunch: Mon-Thur 11-3; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Champagne Johnny’s. This place seemed to decline precipitously after our last review. Then it closed and later reopened with a new menu. No longer just a seafood restaurant, Champagne Johnny’s now devotes as much attention to red meats and veal. We returned with some anticipation, but the problems here haven’t all been resolved. Our pesky peel-’em-yourself crawfish cocktail was utterly tasteless, and the fried clams were hardly light enough to deserve the “tempura” description that had been tacked onto them. The thick stuffed pork chops were overdone to the point of terminal dryness, and the mustard sauce didn’t help much. The filet of snapper was nicely saut坢ed, but it couldn’t compensate for the disappointments of the meal. (2905 Greenville. 823-5800. Tue-Thur5-11:30 pm, Fri 5 pm-2 am. Sat 5 pm-2 am. Sun 11 am-10 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

Charley’s Seafood Grill. Clustered on a hill in Las Col inas are three of Dallas’ most successful formula restaurants: Chili’s, Bennigan’s and Charley’s Seafood. All three are winners because they adhere to strict tenets: Keep it simple, and do it right. Charley’s capitalizes on the city’s new-found love affair with fresh fish and shellfish, which is served either mesquite-grilled. lightty fried or saut坢ed. We tried a temperately spiced brochette of shrimp and scallops (very good) and a portion of fried catfish (tasty and without a trace of grease). Good homemade fries, a simple light slaw and possibly the best hush puppies around came along as side dishes. If you don’t like cheesecake, you won’t like Charley’s desserts (cheesecake, cheesecake or cheesecake), but don’t worry: two Snickers candy bars arrive with the check. (O’Connor Blvd at Hwy 114, Las Colinas. 659-9751; 5348 Belt Line, Addison, 934-8501. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 5-10 pm at Las Colinas location; Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm Fri & Sat11-11 at Addison location. MC, V, AE, CB. $$)

Fishmonger’s Market Seafood Caf坢. At this tiny Plaro fishmarket, which doubles as a restaurant and takeout shop, both fried and broiled seafood come off admrably. The broiled scrod was impeccably fresh and delicate in texture, and the fried catfish and oysters were both crunchy. needing just a bit more salt to be delectable All orders come with a not-too-sweet slaw and a choice of freshly cut french fries or red beans and rice. (1915 N Central Expwy, Suite 600. Plano. 423-3699. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm. Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat noon-10 pm, Sun noon-9 pm. All credit cards. $$)



D REVISITS

Gulf Coast Oyster Co. Oyster lovers might want to think twice before investing in the shellfish here. We rejected several of ours on sight as simply too small and discolored to consider; they were courteously replaced with specimens that were only slightly larger and rather tasteless. Likewise with the shrimp-or shrimpettes. This is a pleasant, airy little caf坢, but the portions just wont do. (8041 Walnut HitlLane. 361- 1922 Mon-Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat & Sun 11-11. MC, V,AE. $$)



Hampton’s Seafood Market. It’s nearly impossible to get into a conversation with a North Dallasite without being regaled with the news that Hampton’s has opened a branch in Preston Royal Shopping Center. The excitement stems from the new northern accessibility of Hampton’s hot lunches, salads, sandwiches and frozen dinner entr坢es – not to mention the wondrous varieties of fish and seafood available for cooking at home. We enjoyed our salad plate: little scoops of mysterious fish salads on a bed of lettuce (we felt secure in identifying the flaked salmon and tuna, but the others could have been anything from monkfish to herring). The Hampton’s St. Jacques was a casserole of tiny bay scallops-tasty but a mite dried-out around the edges. Sandwiches come on large croissants and are served with either gumbo or chowder. (Preston Royal Shopping Center. Suite 113, 696-5400;801 Pearl. 742-4668. Mon-Sat 8 am-6:30 pm, closed Sun at Preston Royal location; Tue-Fri 8 am-6 pm. Sat 7 am-6 pm, Sun 7 am-4:30 pm at Peart location No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)

Newport’s. You can’t buy fresher-tasting fish and shellfish than that served at Newport’s. We tried a hall-dozen each of tiny bluepoint oysters and of heftier Loui-sianas, and all were fresh and cold. The boiled shrimp is also first-rate, whether alone in a cocktail or with crab in a Dipn sauce. The fried shrimp and oysters stand out in our memory, and the french fries were light and crisp. But our memories of the charcoal- broiled swordfish and salmon are heavenly, too. Newport’s looks very dramatic, with several airy levels of tables on rough wooden floors surrounding a huge well (which once held the water that went into making the beer at the brewery that long ago occupied the premises). (703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-0220. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Pop Bailey’s. This unpretentious place does simple things well. The large Louisiana oysters are bracing, and, for once, the plain boiled shrimp had plenty of taste Pop Bailey’s does a creditable job of frying – which is, after all, the classic American way of cooking seafood. Perhaps more surprisingly, the restaurant also broils fish well: We were most pleased with the red snapper. There is also a decent rib-eye steak for the seafood hater who is trapped among a bunch of aficionados. (3750 W Northwest Hwy. 350-9748. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat & Sun 4-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Ratcliffe’s. Given the airy atmosphere of this many. windowed seafood hot spot, the food here is better than it has to be. Even in a dungeon, Ratcliffe’s continental seafood would lift your spirits. Both the esoteric entrees (such as the unforgettably pungent filet of mako shark and the abalone steak) and the humbler items (such as the fried seafood platter or the baked trout with saff on rice) deserve applause. For lighter appetites, the thick clam chowder or the oysters Wellington should suffice. (1901 McKinney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

D REVISITS

Rocco Oyster Bar. Are we just getting blase, or is the high-tech look getting a bit dated? We find that the lower, patiolike room at Rocco is nicer to look at than the chic starkness of the main room. Luckily, the food holds up better than the decor. We like having a choice among oyster varieties, and the crab meat cocktail is generous in size, though pricey. Both broiled fish entrees we tried – redfish and salmon – were done to a turn. Desserts are mostly ice-cream pies from Baskin-Robbins – again, pleasant but rather overpriced. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Sun-Wed 11:30-11:30, Thur-Sat 11:30 am- 12:30 am. MC, V, AE. $$)



Seascape Inn. With so many new seafood restaurants in town, you could overlook Seascape Inn if the food weren’t so fine. The baked oysters Seascape with eggplant and mozzarella weren’t as tasty as we remembered, but everything else was wonderful. The fettuc-cine with seafood was perfectly al dente, and the grilled salmon was flaky and tender, with a lovely hollan-daise. You don’t expect dessert to be the highlight of the meal at a seafood restaurant, but the deep-dish apple pie-actually a delicate tart with an apricot glaze-looked and tasted magnificent. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)

S&D Oyster Company. A line from Jonathan Swift hangs in the entry of S&D: “He was a bold man that first eat an oyster.” But what a trend that man set, and what a perfect atmosphere for letting several dozen of the slimy little jewels shimmy down your gullet. This New Orleans-style anchor is always crowded, and, unfortunately (for us at least), the peak crowd lasts from early afternoon until midevening. But if you don’t mind waiting in line, the coleslaw is spectacular (and coleslaw is rarely spectacular); the shrimp are juicy and meaty; and everything from the red snapper filets to the fried oysters tastes fresh and is never greasy. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Turtle Cove. On a recent visit, we waited 30 minutes for a table, although we had made reservations. Thus began an evening that ended in reservations of another sort. Our waiter was cordial enough and well-informed, but he was hard to find during the meal. Our oysters on the half shell were dry and disappointingly small, and the sauces were pre-mixed, an assembly-line insult to personal taste. The gumbo had some of that authentic funky fire but was sadly lacking in ingredients. As for our mesquite-grilled entr坢es, the red snapper had a distant smokiness and little else. The scallops, however, were a toothsome revelation-fat, moist and chewy. As a final blow, the staff betrayed its eagerness to reuse our table while we were still using it-and the prices here are too steep for hurrying. (2731 Northwest Hwy. 350-9034. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11 am-9 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Bubba’s. Is this the Park Cities riposte to fast foods? Or an art deco diner? Whichever, Bubba’s serves some of the best fried chicken and hot rolls anywhere. The other down-home dishes are not quite so memorable, but they’re still good. Not only does Bubba’s offer chicken-fried steak and chicken and dumplings, but you can also find vegetables such as black-eyed peas, corn and green beans, plus a slaw with a touch of garlic. You’ll curtainly never feel trendier at a place where you carry your own food on a tray. (6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Daily 6:30 am- 10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks ac-cepted. $)

Dovie’s. Soldier/actor Audie Murphy’s house used to be out in the country. Now it’s in the middle of booming Addison, and its comfortable and elegant rooms are a good place to eat down-home cooking. The onion soup is the best in town; the chicken-fried steak and pot roast, excellent; the mashed potatoes, homemade rolls and home-cooked vegetables, delicious. The saut坢ed snapper and the wonderful-sounding desserts were disappointing, but the enthusiastic, skillful service wasn’t. (4671 Midway.233-9846. Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10, Sun 5:30-9; Sun brunch: 11-2:30. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



D REVISITS

Chickeria. Inside this small, spare diner with its turquoise tables and chairs, you’ll find a variety of down-home selections as well as a few Tex-Mex items. Chickena’s specialty is barbecued chicken grilled over a mesquite fire, and it’s just what it’s supposed to be: juicy inside and smoky outside. Other choices from the grill include ribs and shrimp, and all are offered with tasty homemade vegetables such as corn on the cob, baked beans and mashed potatoes (mashed with the skin on). If home-style doesn’t suit your taste buds, try the fajitas (served on a flour tortilla with some excellent guacamole on the side) or the delicious chicken tacos. (601 N Haskell. 821-9072. Mon-Sat 11 am-9 pm. Closed Sun MC, V, AE. $)



Fran’s. Don’t be fooled by the men in coats and ties; wear your jeans and T-shirt and get set for some good, down-home cookin -maybe even a mite better than Mom used to make. The atmosphere here is down-to-earth: The walls are shingled, the windows are filled with pots of English ivy, and the blue jean-clad waitresses are friendly and attentive. We were impressed with the chicken-fried steak and catfish, both of which were topped off with home-cooked mashed potatoes, squash and corn bread. The menu changes daily, so bring your bifocals to read the chalkboard menus that hang on the wall. (3005 N Hall. 741-7589. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards. $)



D REVISITS

Don’t Seafood and Steakhouse. We mean it in the best of ways when we say that Don’s is the Sears of seafood. This sprawling emporium is a far cry from fancy (who cares about the difference twixt turbot and turbo-diesel?). but the long menu of mostly fried fish and Cajun specialties offers a sound value for fish lovers who prefer quantity over chichi any day of the week. (2361 W Northwest Hwy. 350-3667. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. $$)

Hearthstone Manor. This is embarrassing. Weheaped praise on Hearthstone Manor, told you it wasworth the drive to Lewisville, told you you’d be in for awholesome, memorable meal. We apologize. Since ourlast visit, this graceful old mansion, once the home ofthe doctor who treated Sam Bass and Jesse James,has changed from a delightful, lovingly presented restaurant into an overpriced, slow-paced tourist trap withfood that is mediocre at best. Gone is the congenialservice and the homemade, strawberry-flavored butterwe enjoyed with assorted hot breads. Present is cordonbleu tasting of old grease and soggy breading and anadmittedly tender pepper steak drenched in heavygravy that surrounded and smothered three (count em)snow peas. The escargots were good, but the scallopsserved with shrimp and crab meat tasted pre-packaged, and the sauce was watery. And the pastries hardly had time to thaw before they were served. (208 E Main. Lewisville. 221-4515. Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30;dinner: Mon-Thur & Sat 5:30-10:30, Fri 5:30-11:30; Sunbrunch: 11:30-2 30. All credit cards $$$)

Southern Kitchen. These two restaurants are old favorites of many Dallasites, especially those who like to consume mass quantities of food. Dinners come in two principal courses The first brings all the shrimp, crab meat and oysters you can eat. The seafood may be a bit on the bland side, but there is an undeniable joy in being able to satisfy a shellfish craving in this manner. The second round brings on platters of fried and barbecued chicken, fish and delectable homemade biscuits and cinnamon rolls. If you prefer, you can also order steaks (generally excellent) or other items instead. No desserts here, though. Nobody has enough room for them. (2356 W Northwest Hwy, 352-5220; 6615 E Northwest Hwy, 368-1658. Mon-Sat 5:30-10 pm, Sun 5-9:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



Antares. This is the perfect spot for a visitor to Dallas who is staying at the Hyatt Regency: It has an excellent view, good food and adequate service. By the same token, Antares is not an extraordinary place for Dallas-ites who have already seen the view. The specialty here is beef-excellent aged beef, including prime rib that’s of melt-in-the-mouth quality. A small sampling of seafood and fowl is also available, with a few basic appetizer offerings such as shrimp cocktail and somewhat unimaginative escargots. Desserts are plentiful and full of pizazz. (300 Reunion Blvd. 741-3663. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30: dinner: daily 6-11; Sun brunch: 11:30-2:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Beefeater. We have a beef with The Beefeater (two, actually): Although the steaks were tender and flavorful, the side dishes were marginal, and the service was terribly slow. Don’t misunderstand: The employees are pleasant enough, as are the dark, publike surroundings. But we had to wait half an hour – on a very slow night – for our appetizers of onion rings (which were sodden and barely warm) and Boston clam chowder. Our entrees were served an hour after we were seated, but the prime rib and filet mignon did indeed satisfy. Perhaps if a little more attention was paid to other menu offerings, and if service was significantly beefed up, The Beefeater could give nearby Hoff-brau some competition. (3010 N Henderson at Central Expwy. 826-2553. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11:30 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Jasons. This steak and seafood restaurant in Sakowitz Village has a lot going for it: aged beef cut to order and well-grilled, a sophisticated setting and a selection of good wines available by the glass. It’s a pleasant place that, with some work, could be a lot better. Steaks are good, but the prime rib is rather tasteless. None of the seafood we tried was impressive. Perhaps more attention has been paid to the setting here than to the food. (Sakowitz Village, 5100 Belt Line. Suite 502, Addison. 960-2877. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



D REVISITS

Hoffbrau. If what you want is a thick, juicy slab of beef without a lot of unnecessary frills, head for Hoffbrau. You won’t find any pseudo-English pub atmosphere here; the decor can only be loosely described as “fun Texas funk.” And there’s not a lot of choice about what will accompany your steak (a salad and potatoes come with each entree; there’s only one salad dressing offered, and the chunky potato slices are pan-fried), but it doesn’t really matter: Everything we tried was good, especially the steaks. The service was efficient, and gold stars must be given to the busboys in particular; friendly and sharp-eyed, they were poetry in motion. A hint: go early to escape the inevitable wait. (3205 Knox. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)



Kobe Steaks. Arigato! That’s Japanese for “thank you, thank you, thank you.” Kobe Steaks has again served us a scrumptious feast of unbelievably tender beef, chicken and succulent shrimp, fresh vegetables and hot soup. Best of all, it was done in the Japanese tradition , without all the theatrics of Benihana. A salad, a shrimp appetizer and sherbet desserts are included with all entrees. That’s a very filling, economical meal for a little more (or, depending on your choice, a little less)than $10. (The Quorum, Suite 600, 5000 Belt Line.934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5 pm-midnight.All credit cards. $$)

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. This is the third location of a restaurant that was established in Beverly Hills in 1938. The gimmick is that it only serves one entree: roast beef. The surprise about Lawry’s is the lavishness of it all. You don’t expect valet parking, anterooms with wood-burning fireplaces and fancy decor at a meat-and-potato place. The food should please an all-American appetite: The roast beef is excellent. We recommend getting one of the larger cuts, since the smallest is sliced more thinly than we like our roast. (3008 Maple. 521-7777. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30, Sun 4-10. All credit cards. $$$)

Nana Bar and Grill. Atop the new high-rise addition to the Loews Anatole. with a magnificent view of the Dallas skyline, the Nana Bar and Grill serves the much-vaunted “New Southwestern Cuisine’ – here sometimes more than a gimmick. Among the appetizers, we enjoyed the scallops marinated in lime juice and served cold with a sprinkling of red caviar and the salad of black-eyed peas with bacon and lots of garlic. The main dishes, by far the best things on the menu, include a thick veal chop, beautifully char-broiled salmon and juicy slices of wild turkey breast. Desserts here are equally ambitious, but we didn’t find them quite as successful as the main courses. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-7200 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10:30 Reservations recommended tor dinner. All credit cards. $$$)

Palm Restaurant. This new branch of the famous New York restaurant is for big spenders. Are you ready for a lobster that costs $72 – without salad or potatoes? Our New York strip was disappointing: The meat wasn’t as butter-rich and tender as corn-fed beef should be, and it had been carelessly cooked so that it tasted of nothing but its charred exterior. It’s too bad that the star attractions of the Palm were such busts, because there was a lot of good cooking going on in other departments. The potato dishes – the crunchy hash browns and the crisp, thin cottage fries especially – and the delicate strings of onion rings were sensational (although we couldn’t understand why they were served before the appetizers, a half hour before the meats they were meant to accompany). Lunches are less devastating to the pocketbook, but the food is even less successful. (701 Ross. 698- 0470. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-9:30 pm. MC, V, AE, DC.$$$$)

Pat’s Sandwich Delicatessen. This cheerful deli is usually packed with shoppers at lunchtime. Pat’s is probably best known for its incomparable roast beef sandwiches: paper-thin slices of flavorful, deep pink beef served on a buttered Kaiser roll But Pat’s also serves one of the best corned beef sandwiches outside New York City, as well as hearty Irish stew and creamy cheesecake. (31 Highland Park Village, 526-5353: Prestonwood Town Center, 991-6161. Mon-Thur 9 am-7 pm, Fri & Sat 9 am-8 pm at Highland Park location: Mon-Sat 10 am-9 pm at Prestonwood location. No credit cards. $)

Purdy’s This is the home of the high-tech – and high-priced-hamburger. Under the exposed heating ducts* and amid the yards of bent neon (an American flag in addition to a myriad of beer logos), you belly up to the counter to order huge burgers on homemade buns Then, when your name is called, you add all the fixing you want from another bar There’s also a meat marker and a bakery on the premises and lots of longnecks and soft drinks in old-fashioned bottles. The quality is high, but we find it difficult to shell out $3 95 for a burger and almost another buck for some home-cooked but not very remarkable fries. (4812 Belt Line. 960-2494. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V. $)

Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Still the queen of Dallas steakhouses, this place packs the customers in at all hours in the quest for the ultimate in meat and potatoes. The huge hunks of USDA prime beef, perfectly cooked and drizzled with butter and parsley, look as though no one could ever finish them, but somehow we polished them all off with no need for a doggy bag. The prices here are as high as the quality of the beef; the side dishes (all of which -even salad and potatoes-cost extra) are no great shakes; and the service can seem harried even if well-intentioned. But none of these things will matter at all to someone who insists on the best in steaks. (6940 Greenville. 691-6940. Mon-Fri 11:30-11:30, Sat & Sun 5-11.30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)

Tolbert’s Texas Chill Parlor. Frank Tolbert may be gone, but his legacy lives on at his chili parlor. There should be consolation enough in this Elysium of Texas Red-the chili is still remarkable, and the burgers are outstanding, too. The one problem we found in this paradise was with the chicken-fried steak. It was the real thing, all right – a single piece of meat rather than some prefabricated substitute. But the crust didn’t hold onto it very well, and the gravy was unremarkable. The crunchy fries, large drinks and our sweetheart of a waitress just about made up for it. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $)

Wonderful World of Cooking. These little tearooms are pleasant stops for lunchers who care more about food than atmosphere. Our meal began with complimentary cups of a light, tomatoey broth and small cheese wafers. Next, we enjoyed a satisfying order of green enchiladas (which were served, interestingly enough, with salad, zucchini bread and hot homemade cinnamon rolls) and the green chili quiche, which also came with salad and rolls. Dieters’ dishes are available, but the homemade desserts (we tried a slice of coconut pie and the Kentucky Derby pie, a fudge-pecan temptation that is served hot) are too good to pass up. (5007 W Lovers Lane, 358-3345; 1900 Pacific, 749-0444; Arnold Square, 13410-G Preston, 386-8620; 6023 Sherry Lane, 750-0382; 621 Preston Royal Village, 739-4803; 12655 N Central Expwy, 788-4430; 208 Mandalay Canal, Irving, 556-2525; 602 Plymouth Park Shopping Center. 2530666; 1305 Avenue K, Plano, 423-8815. Store hours: Mon-Fri 9:30 am-6 pm, Sat 9:30 am-5 pm. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; dinner: Thur 6-9 pm at Arnold Square location. Closed Sun. Catering and takeout available. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)



MID-CITIES RESTAURANTS



Bruni’s. There’s something to be said for cheap Italian restaurants like Bruni’s, located in a Bedford strip shopping center – especially if “cheap” means solid, reasonably priced meals in clean, modest surroundings. You won’t find strolling musicians here, just tables covered with red-and-white checked oilcloths and friendly waitresses to take your order. We sampled a variety of the offerings, including fried ravioli, fried artichoke hearts, shrimp scampi and spaghetti with mushrooms. Our favorite item was the huge batch of artichoke hearts – only $3.50. Our least favorite dish was the spaghetti (specifically the sauce, which was too heavy on the tomato paste and too light on the spices). (2855 Central Dr., Bedford. (817) 283-4380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 4-10 pm. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

The China Rosa. This Arlington restaurant, decorated to resemble a street market in Hong Kong, is like an Oriental TGI Friday’s – and it’s just as crowded. The garish ambiance is fine if you’re in the mood for it, but in other areas, the China Rose fails to deliver. We had to wait an hour and a half for a table (a lengthy interval even by Saturday-night standards). Among the appe-s, the parchment-wrapped shrimp were delectable somewhat overpriced (four tiny pieces cost !,95). The China Treasure Chicken, on the other and, had generous portions but contained as much in and fat as meat. (1401 N Collins, Arlington. (817) 7-5888. Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm,Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, AE. $$)

Empress of China. The garish red-and-yellow sign that announces “Empress of China” to the world might make you think that decor isn’t one of this restaurant’s finer points. Think again. Inside, the Empress is almost regal: spare, white and subtly elegant. The food is mostly middle-of-the-road Chinese-better than adequate but less than outstanding. One dish to try: the Shrimp (or Seafood) Wor Bar. (2648 N Belt Line, Irving. 252-7677.Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm; Fri & Sat 11-11; Sun noon-10 pm. Reservations. MC, V, AE. DC. $$)

Los Canarios. People who aren’t from Euless may find it hard to locate this family-run restaurant hidden away in a shopping center, but do try; it serves excellent Mexican specialties. The steak for the carne asada is marinated in orange juice and brushed with butter while on the grill, creating an enticing beef dish. The crab chimichangas (crunchy fried burritos) are unusual and satisfying. The standard mixed platters are good, but they’re not quite what we Texans are used to- the restaurant’s owners hail from Mexico and Southeast Asia, and Tex-Mex is not a native cuisine to them. (Hwy Wat Raider, Euless. (817)283-4691. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11:30, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



D REVISITS

The Balcony. Overlooking the lights of busy Camp Bowie Boulevard from inside The Balcony, we began our meal with escargots drenched in butter. Broiled lamb chops and fresh lobster followed. We were surprised at the size and freshness of the crustacean: It was expertly prepared, with the sweet flavor of the meat enhanced (but not overpowered) by the drawn butler. The unhurried pace of the service, the flickering candlelight and the distant tinkling of a piano lent a romantic air to our evening. But this restaurant is certainly not just for lovers: We spied a family celebrating a birthday, three women co- workers enjoying dinner and several tables of business-suited men discussing the latest stock market flurry. The diversity, however, only adds to the charm. (6100 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards.)



Billy Miner’s. Across the street from Fort Worth’s avant-garde Caravan of Dreams is a saloon with a 19th-century facade that serves some of the biggest, gooiest and most delicious hamburgers in town. The burgers are reminiscent of the famous ones at Kincaid’s, but at Billy Miner’s you can belly up to the bar and sip a beer, a glass of wine- whatever – while you feast. Steaks and hot dogs are also on the menu, but the hamburger bar (where you build your burger with all the fixin’s) appears to be the main attraction. While you wait for your order to come off the grill, heaping baskets of peanuts in the shell will help you while away the time. (150 W 3rd at Houston. (817)877-3301. Sun- Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. $)

Caf坢 da Vinci. Oh, Leonardo, where are you? This Fort Worth restaurant could use a shot of your artistic ability in the food department, which is, in a word, uninspired. But, on the other hand, the crew here seems to be trying hard to please, and there are few nice restaurants on this edge of Meadowbrook, which accounts for the full parking lot on most nights. We found the veal to be only so-so, but the homemade pasta appetizer did show signs of untapped creativity in the kitchen. Don’t expect too much, and you won’t be disappointed. (5504 Brentwood Stair. (817) 496-5183 Lunch: daily 11-2; dinner: Sun- Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)

Calamity’s. Calamity’s is a novelty restaurant/bar named after the infamous Calamity Jane. The interior is upgraded mine-shaft, and the food is average at best, but there are some clever touches: At Sunday brunch, the champagne flows freely, and a cappuccino machine and real whipped cream await you at the end of the buffet. The salad bar is well-stocked, and the view of the downtown skyline of Fort Worth is impressive. Still, these attributes don’t make up for inadequate service and so-so food. (1900 Ben St. (817) 534-4908. Sun-Thur 5-10 pm,Fn& Sat 5-11 pm; Sun brunch: 10:30-2. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

The Carriage House. It’s a bit overpriced, perhaps, but Fort Worth patrons seem to be stuck on this genteel Old Guard establishment. The maitre d’ and waiters speak to customers by name, and an appropriate amount of time is given to diners to peruse the menu before waiters interrupt to take the dinner order. Nothing is rushed here, especially service, which can be annoying if you’re anxious to catch a show. Wait until you can spend the better part of an evening; then sit back, and you may enjoy (as we did) stuffed mushrooms, es-cargots, rack of lamb and broiled abalone. (5136 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. Sun 6-10: Sun brunch: 11-2, MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Edelweiss. The crowds at this cavernous German-style restaurant attest to its continuing popularity in Fort Worth. On weekends, the wait can exceed an hour for a table – and longer for food. But the dirndl-clad frau-leins are friendly and try to make the best of a slow kitchen. And owner/entertainer/band leader Berndt Schner-zinger does his part to keep your mind off the wait: He sings requests and old standbys such as My Way (with – you guessed it – a German accent). The food is generally of high quality: The heaping sauerbraten plates continue to please, and we found the ribs (both pork and beef) delectable. (3801-A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Mon-Thur 5-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)

El Rancho Grande. Although this restaurant is fairly new, it’s steadily challenging its older competitors in the area (Jimenez and Joe T.’s). The chicken enchiladas are smothered in sour cream, and the tacos al carbon are thick with generous portions of steak. Even the customary chips are distinctive; they’re light, not heavy or soggy with grease. But although the special marganta was indeed special (made with liqueurs and call tequila), its price was astronomical: $4 10. (1400 N Main. (817) 624-9206. Mon- Thur 11 am-9:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)

Escape. It took us quite a while to find this hideaway. It’s an obscure white house that looks like any of the other quiet residences on this street, except that valet parking attendants line the tiny parking area with Cadillacs and BMWs. But it’s a wonderful escape-a seven-course evening that comes mighty close to rivaling the five-star offering at Michel. Our entree of veal wrapped in herbs was simply presented, not drenched in an overpowering sauce. (3416 Peiham. (817) 738-9704. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards $$$)

J.J.’s Oyster Bar. At J.J.’s. you can have your seafood any way you like it, as long as you like it fried. Cholesterol counts aside, you’ll love J.J.’s. It’s |ust what an oyster bar should be: a long bar with stools tor perching, some “tall tops” (tall, round tables with matching stools) and waitresses in jeans who bring you plastic baskets bulging with deep-fried fish and shellfish. Purists can feast on orders of raw oysters. (929 University. (817)335-2756 Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Sun noon-9 pm. No credit cards. $)

Joe T. Garcla’s. In combing the Southwest in search of the perfect margarita, our tequila elixir was found next to a plate of enchiladas, beans and rice in this celebrated family-style restaurant. This margarita packs a wallop. No mixes, no diluted mixtures of sweet and sour-just tequila, lime juice and Triple Sec. The food-the standard dinner plus a few choices such a steak a la Mexicana-was, as always, great. But memories (what we can remember) lie with the liquor menu. (2201 N Commerce. (817)626-4356 Mon-Fri am-2 pm & 5-10:30 pm. Sat 11-11. Sun 3-10 pm. No credit cards. $$)

The Keg. This place has one of the better salad bars in or around Fort Worth. In addition to the standard lettuce and spinach, the offerings include macaroni and rice salads along with an assortment of fresh vegetables. Large bowls are provided for trips to the salad bar so you can make one big salad instead of several small ones. As for steaks (for which the restaurant is known), you can’t go wrong with a New York cut or a teriyaki steak: Both are huge and tender. Be prepared to ask for a doggy bag – you may not make it through the tempting salad bar, heavily laden baked potato and steak. (1309 Calhoun. (817) 332-1288; 3024 Meredith. (817) 921-5241; 6301 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-9222; 428 E Lamar, Arlington, (817) 261-5900; 4413 S West Loop820. (817)292-6170. Sun & Mon 5-10 pm, Tue-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5 pm-midnight at Calhoun location; Sun-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm at Meredith location; Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm at Camp Bowie location; Sun- Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11 at Arlington location; lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11:30 at Loop 820 location. MC, V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS

The Original Mexican Food Caf坢. The long lines at this popular Mexican food restaurant are due more to tradition than to outstanding food. Oh, the combination plates are okay, and the service is quick and efficient, but the food, overall, isn’t really exceptional. But that’s not the point, as throngs of Fort Worth natives will tell you. The margaritas are huge, and, moreover, the restaurant looks like the real thing: concrete walls, cracking linoleum floors and bustling waiters and waitresses. (4713 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-6226. Sun-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Closed Tue. All credit cards. $)



Reflections. This restaurant’s subdued, peachy pastels work well with black trim, and the quality of the food is superb. Yet there is something mildly unsettling about this Americana Hotel dining room. Despite the opulent touches (floor-to-ceiling lamps and color-coordinated flowers on each table), we felt a bit exposed as we dined in the long, rectangular room. But don’t be put off by the too-bright indirect lighting or by the austere lines of the dining room. Go to Reflections for the food, because as far as hotel restaurants go, this place manages to break the stereotypes and deliver well-prepared and thoughtful dishes comparable to any of the best restaurants in Fort Worth. For starters, try the scallops wrapped in bacon or the pate plate with a sweet sauce. The New York sirloin with Bercy sauce is overpriced at $18.50, but the cut is as tender as butter; and the Ginger Duck is delightful, with a perfectly sweetened sauce that enhances but doesn’t overpower. (200 Main. (817)870-9894. Mon-Fri6:30-10:30 pm. Sat 6:30-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)

River House. One thing to remember here is that you shouldn’t show up on a weekend night and expect to be seated within an hour. It doesn’t matter if they tell you it’ll be shorter; expect a long wait anyway. And once you’re seated, don’t expect too much in the way of great seafood: The standard fare of shrimp and fish was very basic. The service can be a little absent-minded, too. (1660 S University. (817) 336-0815. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Tours. This place reminds us less of Fort Worth than any other restaurant in town; we spied nary a cowboy pat and didn’t hear even a trace of a Texas drawl the enire evening. The staff tries hard to please. The salmon Kvas fresh, with a light hollandaise sauce that was theither overpowering nor too lemony. The veal, like-usise. was cooked simply but well. For dessert, there’s chchocolate cake that will satisfy even the most die-hard hot ocolate lover. (3429B W Seventh St. (817) 870-1672. tionich: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10 pm. shrinsed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended on withekends. MC, V, AE. $$$)

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