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RESTAURANTS DINING OUT

Getting your just desserts
By D Magazine |

MANY A MEDIOCRE meal has been saved by the last course; a carefully concocted sweet will be fondly remembered long after the sour-milk taste of the chowder is gone. Dessert, then, is an important aspect of dining. Unfortunately, too often it is treated by the restaurateur as an afterthought, a necessary evil to be handled quickly and with as little bother as possible.

But Dallas’ more successful restaurants don’t treat sweets lightly. Places like The French Room and Jean Claude lavish as much care on the feuillete chaud aux fruits de saison as they do on the scallops in garlic and cream sauce. The smart chef is aware that the last course is likely to be the first remembered. They are not going to leave their reputation to a 3-day-old piece of carrot cake or a granite-hard hunk of ice cream.

The best desserts are both simple and complex. A pear tart-pastry, fruit and fruit syrup-sounds easy enough. But if the pastry is not made with care, the pears are not at just the right point of ripeness and the syrup is not cooked just long enough, the truly memorable taste will not be there.

We aren’t going to tell you about the desserts at Dallas’ more opulent restaurants; everyone knows they’re ambrosial. We’re going to let you know about some of the city’s lesser-known offerings.

Flan is a Latin concoction, a kind of custard usually served with a caramel sauce. The best flan we could find in Dallas is served at Cafe Cancun (4131 Lomo Alto). It’s a fine example indeed. The texture is different from most flans; it’s almost cheesecaky. The sauce was perfect, buttery with just the right amount of “scorch.” Even if Cafe Cancun didn’t serve some of the best Mexican food in Dallas, the flan would be worth a visit.

Frenchy’s Cafe (Preston Royal Shopping Center) is an unpretentious little place in North Dallas. The atmosphere is true Gallic cafe, not surprising considering that the owners hail from France. Along with other goodies, Frenchy’s makes one of the best chocolate mousses in Dallas. The texture is airy, the chocolate is rich and flavorful, and there’s just a hint of orange (probably Cointreau) added for accent.

Another mousse of note is that served at Le Boul’ Mich (2704 Worthington). Our serving had set in the fridge maybe a bit too long, but it still exhibited the perfect marriage of richness and lightness. The added flavor was amaretto, and there were almond slices on top.

We tried a lot of cheesecakes in our dessert search. Most were good, but not outstanding. Many, of course, are bought from makers in New York and Chicago – cheesecake being one dessert that doesn’t suffer too much in transit. But we found two outstanding versions: the pecan cheesecake at Seascape Inn (6306 Greenville) and the pecan-praline cheesecake at Holy Cow in Caruth Plaza. The crunch of the pecans in the former provided just the right contrast to the velvety texture of the cake. The latter is made differently; the sauce is heated and poured over the cake, which is one of the lightest, smoothest we found anywhere in town.

Holy Cow (Caruth Plaza and Collin Creek Mall) is, in fact, a sweet-lover’s Xanadu. Its menu includes a half-dozen or so cakes, the same number of cheesecakes, frozen “pies” made from ice cream, homemade cookies (including the best Florentines in Dallas), parfaits made with Blue Bell ice cream and such additional toppings as pecans, honey, hot fudge, butterscotch and fruit sauces. And Swiss cherry pie, made with plenty of plump Bing cherries.

Two other cheesecakes finished high in the ratings, too. Phil’s Delicatessen (3531 Oak Lawn) makes its own, and does a good job with it. It’s best plain-the canned fruit topping only messes up a good thing. And the Palm Bar at the Adol-phus Hotel (1321 Commerce) serves a chocolate version that’s a respectable blend of cocoa and cheesecake. Also worth mentioning at the Palm Bar is the homemade vanilla ice cream. Rich and flavorful.

Lucas’ Encore (3524 Oak Lawn), a recent addition to Oak Lawn’s nightlife, changes its dinner menu day to day, depending on what the chef wants to try. If you’re lucky enough to be there when he serves apple cobbler, don’t miss it. The pastry is flaky; the filling, imaginative and sweet. Besides the usual apples and touch of cinnamon, white grapes are added. They set off the flavor of the apples perfectly.

For pies, we could find none to equal those now available at the 8.0 in the Quadrangle, which has a new, more extensive menu. We’ve tried the apple and the blueberry; both were magnificent. The baker has opted for the natural taste of the fruit; there’s very little, if any, added sugar. The idea is just straight-up flaky pastry stuffed to overflowing with fruit. And the servings are quite generous.

On to the cakes. Cafe Riviera (13601 Preston) serves an amaretto cake that consists of layers of yellow cake held together with a fruit-nut concoction. The result is a startling blend of textures and flavors. Throughout is the faint taste of the Italian liqueur that is the cake’s namesake.

The Espresso Bar on the first floor of Neiman-Marcus’ downtown store daily features desserts from the store’s bakery. They are all good, but one is outstanding: the chocolate-pecan torte. The cake is a rich, moist devil’s-food; the thick chocolate icing is chock-full of pecans, and the result is truly sinful.

The English chocolate cake at the Mansion (2821 Turtle Creek) is of a different stripe. The cake is so rich and moist that it’s almost a pudding. The icing is thick and creamy, so you end up with a choco-laty, brownie-like dessert that should satisfy even the most ardent cocoa lover.

Speaking of brownies, the best we’ve found in Dallas is at DiPalma (1520 Greenville). It’s heavily laden with nuts and cocoa, and it’s different from most in that the texture is crunchy.

Another chocolate cake that is cocoa-worthy is the French version sold at Marty’s (3316 Oak Lawn). It is similar to that served at the Mansion, but has a bit of crunch around the edges. It is extremely rich; a bit goes a long way. Marty’s dessert offerings are varied and always fresh. The Hello Dollies are a sort of brownie, chock-full of chocolate chips, pecans and coconut. The various cheesecakes are also quite excellent. Marty’s always has something new and exciting in its dessert department, from cookies to cakes, and if you ask they’ll give you a sample taste so you can’t go wrong.

Our last entries are unusual; you won’t be able to compare them with Grandma’s, as you can the chocolate cake or the apple cobbler. DiPalma makes a Swiss walnut-honey tart that features a caky shell (sort of a shortbread, actually) with a ribbon of walnut-honey filling. The filling is, of course, super-sweet, but the rest is not, so you have a delicate balance that works beautifully.

Two Mexican offerings should be included in any dessert list: the cinnamon sopapillas at Chiquita and the strawberry sopapillas at Raphael’s. The menu at Mario Leal’s Chiquita (3810 Congress) is a simple one, but all the entries are prepared correctly and are usually on the culinary mark. Those standards hold true for the dessert, too. The sopapilla, especially with the addition of cinnamon ice cream, is superb. The version at Raphael’s (3701 Mc-Kinney) is more complex: The sopapilla is filled with strawberries and topped with whipped cream.

Nostromo (4515 Travis) changes its desserts daily, and the chef is adventuresome. One of his more interesting offerings is a peach-cream cheese invention. It’s simple: just peaches folded into cream cheese. The only sweetness is that of the fruit. The peach flavor is delicate and the overall effect is subtle. But it makes an elegant ending for a meal.

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $15 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.



Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.



Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.

D’s DOZEN



The 12 restaurants listed below are our reviewers’ up-to-the-month list of the top dozen restaurants in the Dallas area. Some are cheap; some are expensive. All are extraordinary. We recommend all of these establishments as being can’t-miss dining opportunities. As is the case with our other listings, D’s Dozen is updated continuously with our reviewers sampling the restaurants each month to see if the quality has been maintained.

We solicit readers’ opinions as to what they consider the best restaurants in Dallas. Send your comments or suggestions to D’s Dozen, 1925 San Jacinto, Dallas, TX. 75201.

1. The French Room. Roland Passot, the chef at The French Room, doesn’t trust any fish that doesn’t come from the same place he does: France, of course. That’s why everything from scallops to sea bass ends up on your plate at The French Room only after it has taken a transoceanic airplane ride. It would obviously be more economical to select a few domestic morsels of the maritime, but Monsieur Passot is not an economist; he’s a master chef, concerned only with making The French Room the best restaurant in the city. That, he’s done. (Unfortunately, the nothing-but-the-best policy has also succeeded in making the place the most expensive restaurant in Dallas.) The bisque of langoustine and crawfish (a frequent special) will run you $18.50, which is pretty rough for a single course in what will turn out to be a four-course meal. But regardless of the price, we’ve yet to find a single dish at The French Room that we didn’t consider well worth what we paid. Passot’s penchant is fish; we suggest that first-time diners stick with the seafood specialties. It’s not that the other items on the menu are anything less than superior, it’s just that the seafood items are so extraordinary that it would be a shame not to sample them. One of our favorites is the roasted lobster with thyme and caviar sauce, although the stuffed sole with two sauces and the braised turbot with oysters and leeks are also excellent. The mark of an exceptional French restaurant is, of course, more than just good entrées. Hors d’oeuvres, salads, soups and desserts- the supporting cast, if you will-must be imaginative as well as tasty. The French Room gets high marks for all its ancillary dishes, from foie gras in aspic and brioche to the light and satisfying Grand Marnier mousse. The food alone would make The French Room the best restaurant in Dallas; but there’s more. The decor looks like Cecil B. DeMille’s vision of what Louis XIV’s dining room must have looked like. The ornate, hand-painted mural on the ceiling makes the room truly unique in Dallas dining circles. Service is excellent, chiefly because Passot has an outstanding staff of waiters and has made sure the service will be intimate by setting a ceiling of 90 diners a night. Because of the growing popularity of The French Room, allow a week to two weeks waiting time if you want a week-night reservation, or a month if you want a weekend reservation. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200, ext 191. Reservations required. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Coat and tie required. All credit cards. $$$$)

2. Jean Claude. Jean Claude Prévot was certainly not the first French chef to open a restaurant in Dallas, but in many ways he was a pioneer. When he opened his restaurant in a tiny house on Cedar Springs in 1977, all he had was his expertise, a small but excellent reputation gained by offering cooking lessons to prominent Dallas homemakers, and an idea. He began serving haute cuisine on a basis the city hadn’t seen before. No menus, no advertising, reservations-only seating. He relied on the quality of his food to fill the small dining room each night. And it did. Now Jean Claude is something of a haute cuisine shrine to most astute Dal-lasites. It represents one of the few cases in which the reputation is backed up by fact. Jean Claude is as good as its press clippings. And, compared to some of the other continental restaurants in Dallas, Jean Claude is something of a bargain emporium. For a fixed price of $29.50 per person, diners can have a complete meal beginning with entrees like lobster in a light cream sauce, salmon menuiner, duck roasted in ginger sauce, veal medallions in mushroom sauce or lamb chops with a special mustard sauce. Jean Claude is renowned for its souffles (chocolate is a long-standing favorite), although the pastries and mousses are on par with anything in the city. Success has taken Jean Claude to a new building, but the dining area is still small enough to provide a feeling of personalized service. A head-to-head competitor with Jean Claude is Calluaud, another excellent French restaurant with a well-deserved reputation (both, incidentally are favorites of French Room chef Roland Passot). But at this point we give the nod in this category to Jean Claude because its menu is a little less predictable and its service is a shade more friendly than that of Calluaud. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seat-ings at 6 and 9. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$$)

3. Bugatti. If you think it takes a real Italian to put together the best Italian restaurant in Dallas, you’re half-right. Half of the Bugatti ownership (Franco Fabbri) is Italian, while the other half, Mario Perez, emigrated from Spain. Both owners are veterans of the old Lombardi’s restaurant on McKinney. The two have succeeded in creating a copy that is better than the original. Bugatti has consistently superior homemade pasta, the quintessential element for any good Italian restaurant. But Bugatti goes far beyond that. The chef handles veal as well as any of his Dallas contemporaries, and the homemade soups are among the best in the city. We’ve sampled mushroom soup on a couple of occasions that would rival the soup served by any of the Gallic heavyweights in town. If there were a culinary hall of fame, it would have to include the tortellini all crema (homemade pasta shells stuffed with veal and engulfed in a rich white cream sauce). Other standouts include the crab cannelloni and the fet-tuccine delta casa. The chef is adroit with veal, be it simple veal in lemon butter or saltimbocca alla romana. After taking some ribbing in our columns about the fact that the decor looked like somebody’s basement rec room, Bugatti has remodeled. (The pasta is so consistently good, we would have gladly stood in line to eat it in a Pilgrim Mini Warehouse, if necessary.) The setting is a little more elegant than it once was, but, fortunately, management has resisted the temptation to raise prices to pay for the new plushness. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. AE, V, MC. $$)

4. Yunnan Dynasty. This restaurant was number five when we started D’s Dozen last month, but revisits have compelled us to push this place up a notch. This is good Chinese cooking-the best in Dallas. Most of the specialties here are hot and spicy, like the boneless duckling with ginger root in hot pepper sauce, although some of the non-combustible dishes, like beef and scallops with oyster sauce, are solid selections. One of our all-time favorites here is steamed fish (served whole) with garlic and black bean sauce, which is not only spicy and tasty, but, as a bonus, is extremely low in calories. Another recommendation is the crab meat and corn rice soup, a dish that is ubiquitous in Dallas Chinese restaurants. (Yunnan is more generous with its crab meat than are most.) Yunnan’s pleasant decor and location make it a notch above its Oriental competitors, beating out such luminary eateries as August Moon and Taiwan for honors as the best Chinese restaurant in Dallas. (9100 N. Central Expy, Suite 191. 739-1110. Sun-Thur 11:30-10, Fri & Sat 11:30-11. AE, V, MC. $$)

5. L’Amblance. Where else but Texas could a restaurateur pull off nouvelle cuisine in a converted service station and not only get away with it, but flourish. That’s what owner Morris Robbins has done, offering a limited but imaginative menu and food that rivals any continental offerings in the city. On recent visits we’ve been impressed with the filet of snapper stuffed with mousse of scallops and the filet mignon flambé cognac with pepper sauce. If you’re into some of the nouvelle mainstays like purees and mousses of substances that haven’t always been puréed or moussed, this is the place. Typical entrees include specialties like veal medallions with puree of mushrooms. And, of course, there are souffléed potatoes, puree of turnips and even terrine of carrots to set off the entrees. And what could be more nouvelle than concluding the meal with a kiwi calfouti, which blends the pleasant counterpoint of mellow, smooth custard and tangy, crisp kiwi. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



6. Café Cancun. Popular wisdom has it that a master of any art form is one who knows the rules well enough to break them and still come up with a work of brilliance. Café Cancun has done this with one of the axioms of Mexican food-namely, the usually reliable rule that the best food comes from the worst surroundings. Most of the good Tex-Mex in Dallas is served in places you wouldn’t feel safe in at night. Perhaps that’s Cafe Cancun’s secret; this isn’t Tex-Mex, but Mexico City-style Mexican food. And this pastel-toned Lomo Alto Street eatery is anything but a hovel. The standout menu items here are too numerous for the first-time diner to sample all of them on one visit, but there are a few superlative items you shouldn’t miss. Try the corn soup, which is thick with cheese and corn meal, and the enchiladas verdes, chicken enchiladas with spicy green tomatil-lo sauce. Both are musts for the first visit. After that, you can branch out into the excellent tacos al carbon, the quesadillas Cancun and the nachos Cancun (black bean nachos), all of which are worth your while. Among our reviewers’ favorite “diet” items in town are Café Cancun’s pescado Cancun (fresh snapper in garlic, onion and herb sauce), and polio a la parrilla (char-broiled chicken breast). Cafe Cancun even has a few super-esoteric items like cebollas a la parrilla (grilled green onions covered with lime sauce), served as an appetizer, and flautas de barbocoa (lamb flautas). Desserts are above average, especially the flan. (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-midnight. AE, MC, V, CB. $$)

7. Turtle Cove. Being the best seafood restaurant in Dallas can be like being the best golf pro in Moscow or the best ski shop in Cairo. Dallas is not exactly a mecca for the preparation of fresh fish, principally because serving the bounty of the sea is limited by the fact that there is no sea around here. But despite that obvious setback, Turtle Cove beats out a host of more-expensive competitors to establish its place as the best seafood restaurant in town. The secret is a Texas-style solution: mesquite wood. Most of Turtle Cove’s entrees are simply broiled over mesquite wood, giving an incredible lift to what might otherwise be bland or, even worse, fishy tasting. Trout amandine takes on a whole new flavor after it has been permeated with mesquite smoke. We also like the smoked salmon, smoked halibut and the smoked swordfish (anybody who can make tasty swordfish deserves applause). We have also been impressed with some of the non-smoked items, like shrimp, crab and lobster, to name a few, as well as the gumbo. (2731 W Northwest Hwy. 350-9034. Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun noon-11. MC, V, AE. $$)

8. Slam. Siam opened up new worlds for us when it brought Thai food to Dallas, and in the year or so that we’ve been carrying the place in our restaurant listings, it has never disappointed us. For the uninitiated, Thai cuisine is often fiery hot, using peppers and curry sauces, and blends in several elements that separate it from spicy hot Chinese cooking such as Szechuan or Hunan styles. Our favorite meal here starts with moo-sar tey (pork strips on bamboo skewers served with a peanut sauce) and slices of cucumber and hot pepper. (A good alternative is the fried squid served in the same manner.) For an entree, we find ourselves ordering the gand ped over and over again. It’s a special rice dish with curry, bamboo shoots, coconut milk, mint leaves and your choice of pork, beef or chicken. (We recommend chicken.) Another standout is the pard Thai, a rice noodle selection with shrimp, pork, eggs, hot chili peppers, bean sprouts and green onions. Another favorite is the Thai-style fried rice, with your choice of meats and sautéed tomatoes. Expect the Oriental peppers to be just as lethal at the jalapenos we Texans grew up loving. The best antidote is cold beer, which, mercifully, Siam has in abundance. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)

9. L’Oustau. Fort Worth is renowned for its Tex-Mex (Joe T. Garcia’s), its barbecue (Angelo’s) and even its chicken-fried steak (Massey’s), but the big surprise is that the best restaurant in the city right now defies all those Texana stereotypes. It’s French, thank you, and a darn good version of Gallic cuisine, even by Dallas’ haughty standards. On recent visits to this downtown Fort Worth establishment, we’ve been impressed with the seafood, the veal and the coq au vin. At one lunch, a lone reviewer had a wonderful tomato bisque, a serving of smoked salmon with capers that was both generous and succulent, an entree of scallops in garlic sauce and a tasty apple tart, all for a tab that was less than $25. L’Oustau has a well-balanced wine list, with some of the better offerings from both the continent and California. Fort Worth people who want good conunental cooking have been driving to Dallas for years. Now Dallas food lovers have a reason to reciprocate. (300 Main St, Fort Worth. (817)332-8900. Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations are recommended. MC, V; personal checks accepted. $$$$.)

10. Gonzalez. You can bet Gonzalez will be one of the closest watched listings in D’s Dozen. Reason: Gonzalez is a new restaurant, and we’ve declared it the best in town in a highly competitive category- Tex-Mex We’ll be watching closely to make sure fame doesn’t ruin what until recently has been one of the best undiscovered restaurants in the city. Doubtless, scores of D readers who saw Gonzalez’ premier in D’s Dozen last month drove out Maple Avenue, took one look at the drive-up window and asked the perfectly reasonable question, “Are they kidding?” Those who went inside obviously know we are not. The reviewers at D have consumed enough Mexican food to choke Pancho Villa, and our combined opinion is that Gonzalez is currently doing the best job in Dallas with the broad spectrum of the Tex-Mex menu. Enchiladas. Burritos. Guacamole. Nachos. Tacos al carbon. Chile rellenos. All are top echelon and are served up in the time it takes you to get tostadas and hot sauce at most Mexican restaurants. We’re partial to the lengthy list of 95-cent breakfast items, the bacon and egg burrito being our current favorite. (4333 Maple. 528-2960. Daily 7 am-9 pm. No credit cards. $)

11. The Pita Place. It is important to the management of this place that you know this is an Israeli restaurant. And who could argue with owner Mike Jacobs and co-managers Jacob and Cookie Ben-Ami? The fact is that the cuisine is what you’ll find in a Lebanese restaurant (like Hedary’s in Fort Worth): hoummus, tabouli, tahina. The nationality and nomenclature, however, are diminished by the fact that this is darn good eating, no matter what you call it. We recommend the specials, like the Jerusalem chicken (a tender, spicy, roasted chicken served with rice, beans and a salad) or the kebab (ground sirloin with chopped onions, parsley and spices). You obviously wouldn’t want to eat here without trying the fresh pita bread; we recommend hoummus (ground chickpeas with lemon and garlic) as an excellent dip/spread. Another must-try appetizer is the tabouli, a mixture made from cucumbers, tomatoes, mint, cracked wheat, parsley and olive oil with lemon. (The Corner Shopping Center, 9820 N Central Expy at Walnut Hill. 987-3226. Mon 5-10, Tue-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 11-10. AE, MC. V, DC. $)

12. Kincaid’s. People must buy groceries in Kin-caid’s Grocery, but we’ve never noticed because our attention has always been dominated by the lunch counter in the back of the store. It is from a greasy grill behind the counter that the best hamburger in the state of Texas (in the world, perhaps) emanates. This is your thick, juicy, meaty burger. No gimmicks. No charcoal. Just good ground meat cooked up in a giant slab and tucked between two buns along with fresh tomatoes, onions, pickles, mustard and all the other accoutrements necessary to constitute “the works” in a Texas hamburger joint. Kincaid’s probably didn’t set out to make the best hamburger in Texas. It is obvious that the management is semioblivious to the legions of businessmen in three-piece suits who flock loyally to the back of the store to have a burger, a bag of potato chips and a Dr Pepper. The lunch counter offers a full range of truck stop-style “plate lunches” with cooked vegetables and the like, but frankly, we’ve never tried anything but the burgers, and we don’t plan to. This is the best hamburger money can buy. Who wants to mess with that? (8627 Hwy 377 South. Fort Worth. (817) 249-9877. Mon-Fri 6 am-3 pm, Sat 7 am-3 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)



DISCOVERIES



(Serendipitous Experiences Off the Beaten Path)

Frenchy’s Café. As close as you’ll come in Dallas to a real Parisian cafe, Frenchy’s is a quiet if too-new-to-be-quaint spot expertly run by an expatriate Gallic couple. The menu varies, but some things are standard: excellent thick-crusted baguettes, butter croissants, quiche, lovingly prepared soups. The salads, with a vinaigrette and mustard house dressing, are outstanding. But the stars are the pates, as sinfully delicious as any we’ve had. Not far behind are the croissant sandwiches made with lean roast beef or ham and cheese. The daily special might be lasagna, beef bourguignonne or seafood with tomato sauce over rice. But no matter what the offering, we haven’t been disappointed. For dessert, go with the chocolate mousse, as good an example of French culinary skill as the pates. (5940 Royal. 369-1235. Mon-Sat 11-7. Closed Sun. MC, V. $)



CONTINENTAL

The Chimney. We found we’d been underestimating this understated place. While the service was slow and the appetizers unappetizing, the entrées were, in a word, wonderful. We began with the appetizer of the house-a melange of crab, scallops and white fish in a crêpe topped with hollan-daise-and found it heavy and dull. Our escargot à la bourguignonne arrived overcooked to the point of being almost burnt. These were followed by salads in the pungent dressing of the house, a light and clear Italian that was very good. After a considerable wait, the main course arrived, and we were humbled. Since 10 of the 18 listed entrees are veal dishes, we expected the veal forestiere to be good: it was better than that. The brandy, white wine and cream sauce was enhanced with real morels and seemed the perfect companion to the buttery slivers of meat beneath. And the Rehsteak Chimney-tour-nedos from Montana venison-was breathtakingly tender, the kind of thing you find yourself talking about for days afterward. At lunch, The Chimney seems to become a ladies’ place where bridge-clubbish meals are prepared as though the chef is distracted by the preparation of evening offerings. We enjoyed the chicken Marco Polo and New England scrod, but the light broth laced with sherry that appeared unannounced beforehand was our favorite touch. (Willow Creek Center, 9739 N Central at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Newcomer: Café Riviera. The culinary emphasis at this elegant new spot is on seafood and continental offerings, Italian and French. But everything is just slightly askew. When we visited, the service was sporadic, the singer in the bar was off-key and, most importantly, the food preparation was haphazard. We ordered a steak au poivre, medium rare, and got an unidentifiable cut of beef in a sauce that tasted only of scorch. The steak was stringy and cooked medium well. At $15 plus, we expected better. We fared no better with the shrimp Riviera. The shrimp, lightly breaded and wrapped in bacon, was overcooked and tough. For dessert, we tried the amaretto cake and the cheesecake. The latter was passable, but the amaretto cake almost saved the meal. A yellow cake held together with ribbons of fruit and nuts, it was nothing short of sensational. (13601 Preston at Alpha. 233-1456. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner Mon-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits Calluaud. Competition is good for any business, including restaurants, and the competition from a few of the new haute cuisine restaurants in Dallas has caused some of the more established restaurants to stay on their toes. A prime example is Calluaud, which has been around for a while, but has updated its menu to include some dishes that qualify as “best in the city” or in some cases, “only such dish in the city.” A dish that falls into both categories is veal in a creamy hazelnut sauce. The sauce was light and nutty and, contrary to what one might expect from such a sauce, not sweet. Our entree was served with tiny asparagus tips that were perfectly cooked, still al dente when they arrived at our table. We also sampled the entrecote with red wine sauce (a dish that is available elsewhere) and found it excellent. On another visit, we found the delicate lobster souffle and the garlicky escargots de bourgogne topped with tiny puffed pastry to be excellent openers. If your tastes run toward fish or fowl, we suggest the deliciously seasoned turbot with champagne and truffles or the notable quail and duck steak with lime. To complete the meal, try the hazelnut souffle. (2679 McKinney 823-5380. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-9:30; Fri & Sat seatings at 6 and 9:30. Closed Sun. Jackets and ties required tor men. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$$)

The Grape. Everyone loves The Grape, but the people who seem to love it most are lovers. This is a great place to propose marriage by candlelight. The atmosphere is also conducive to conversations about bad poetry or good dance. You’ll overhear people confessing that their fathers have intimidated them all their lives or that they’ve been painting in acrylics on smaller canvases for the past three years. In other words, this is the best of the thinking people’s places; it’s a mecca for hungry degree-carrying intellectuals and their emotional basket-case friends contemplating a trip to New Mexico. The people waiting on tables are young, bright and probably living lives far more fascinating than your own. And the food is excellent. The menu varies with the season and the chef’s whims. Quiche Lorraine is a staple, as is the homemade mushroom soup and soft, buttery Boston lettuce dinner salads. We’ve tried a variety of chicken, scallop and pasta dishes recently, and all were well-proportioned and well-presented. The pates are consistently noteworthy. The only problem we’ve had is with the tape deck: The last time we visited The Grape we heard Pachel-bel’s “Canon in D” three times. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6-1. AE, MC, V. $$)

La Vieille Varsovie. The Old Warsaw is in danger of becoming a restaurant in which food no longer holds center stage. Although the waiters serve with theatrical flair, something is wrong in the kitchen. On two visits we had a tough duckling with kiwi fruit and raspberry vinegar, a mushy filet of sole stuffed with crab, salads swimming in dressing, fresh asparagus ruined by overcooking and green beans with far too much garlic. The fish pate was graced with a delicate lobster sauce, but the mersault had not been properly incorporated into the other sauce, giving it an alcoholic taste. The champagne sauce for the poached salmon was better, but the fish was dry. And nothing we ate merited the expense of the high-priced wine list, which began (with few exceptions) at $25 and averaged $65 a bottle, or half the price of a dinner for two. We were advised to try the fresh lobster, the Dover sole with lemon butter and the rack of lamb-dishes that are not the test of French cooking, but are probably more manageable. Twice, we were seated beside the huge cabinets on which the waiters perform their handiwork. Surely more of this work could be done in the kitchen, where someone should be tasting and checking the food. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. Jackets and ties required tor men. All credit cards. $$$$)

Le Rendezvous. This is one of the most comfortable continental restaurants in Dallas. It’s not as pretentious as some of its competitors, but it’s formal enough to make you feel as if you’re getting your money’s worth of pomp and ceremony. We’ve long enjoyed the lunch specials, which always include a homemade soup and usually a fresh fish or veal entree as well. Le Rendez-Vous has an extensive seafood selection, including an excellent grilled salmon with béarnaise, poached filet of sole, shrimp, snapper and trout. There’s also a good cold salmon plate served with fresh raw vegetables. This place does a good job on two dishes that have become standards in Dallas continental restaurants: veal in lemon butter and pepper steak. And for those who like to venture outside the culinary mainstream, there’s roast duck in peach sauce or rabbit sautéed in wine sauce. (If you like duck or rabbit, you’ll find the versions served here to be quite acceptable.) If you can wait until 11 a.m. for breakfast, you couldn’t do better than the omelets served at Le Rendez-Vous. We’re especially partial to the piperade basque (tomato, onion and green pepper omelet). Service is consistently good. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Tue-Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat and Sun 11:30 am-2 am. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Mansion. One of the pleasures of the carefully calculated decor of the Mansion is its golden lighting, which enables the diner to see not only his perfect green salad, but also the contemporary nobility on the terrace-visiting movie stars and international financiers. Noble is the word for the Mansion’s peasant dish, tortilla soup. It should be exported to the restaurant’s parent company, New York’s 21 Club. But we wouldn’t mind at all if the New Yorkers took back their bland chicken hash with Mornay sauce. In other sauces, the Mansion excels. The béarnaise sauce that came with the grilled red snapper was so light, smooth and tasty that you could put it on cardboard and swear you’d had a good meal. And the duck served with a brown, not-too-strong garlic sauce was topped with a slice of duck liver paté that deserves a place of its own on the menu. A too-lemony veal sauce was disappointing, given the subtlety of the other sauces. Service is brisk, efficient and French, without annoying theatrics. If only the desserts were as good as they looked. The raspberry torte was a chaotic mixture of sour raspberries, brick-like chocolate and bland whipped cream. The restaurant encourages the smoking of fine cigars from its “21” collection, a problem if you are inhaling the enticing aroma of a juicy breast of pheasant with chanterelles, and your neighbor lights up. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd.526-2121. Lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:30; Brunch: Sat noon-2:30, Sun 11-2; Dinner: Sun 6-10, Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11: Supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight. Fri and Sat 11-midnight. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)

Pyramid Room. With its potted, leafless trees, high, bare, brown walls and bland, green, high-backed chairs, the Pyramid Room is the most austere room in Dallas. When we visited, the staff was short-handed and apologetic for delays, but despite the strain, was courteous and thorough. The Pyramid specializes in flourishes of service and display. A huge piece of fresh matzo cracker was set in a holder made of fresh banana bread, a display guaranteed to set your teeth on edge if you are made uneasy by conspicuous consumption. The name of the person who made the reservations is embossed on the books of matches on the table. The captain plucks the napkins from the table and settles one on the lap of each guest. The Italian wine steward is charming and funny. The house pate of fish and lobster with two sauces was delicate yet flavorful, as was the sauce with a 2-inch thick steak au poivre. But the mushroom hors d’oeuvre, cassoulet dor-donaise, was bland and flavorless, not up to the $7 charge. Perfection, of course, is what is expected at the Pyramid Room’s prices. The veal in the paup-piette de veau Bonaparte was tender, but also coarse and grainy. For lunch we had a few fine slices of Irish smoked salmon, but the oysters Kirkpatrick were cool, and our vegetables were undercooked. The Pyramid is struggling and is sometimes very good, but the time has gone when it dominated continental dining in Dallas. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross and Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Daily 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



ITALIAN

Campisi’s. First you wait in a long line. Then you’re seated at a bare table in a dark, dingy, crowded room where you’re surrounded by photos of various Campisis and celebrities. Then you order a glass of Burgundy and discover that it’s chilled. But then your food arrives and you know why this joint is such an institution. The veal dishes would be excellent even if they weren’t such bargains. The veal mar-sala, with its rich mushroom sauce, is one of Dallas’ best dining deals at $6.95. The fettuccine is likely to be a large overcooked lump, but the thick, cheesy sauce that covers it makes up for the sodden texture. The garlic toast and antipasto are run-of-the-mill, as are the desserts, Black Forest cake and cheesecake. If you just want solid, no-frills Italian at reasonable prices and don’t mind early K Mart decor, Campisi’s is worth the wait. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355, 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-mid-night, Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations tor six or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

La Tosca. With its black-and-white-checked tile floor, expansive archways and soft lighting, La Tosca exudes stark elegance. Fortunately, the food is up to par with the lovely, understated surroundings. An excellent inclusion on La Tosca’s menu is the octopus salad, tender slices marinated in lime juice and spices. Another flavorful appetizer from the ocean is the pepata di vongole or cozze (clams with tomatoes, garlic and black pepper). La Tosca offers an extensive selection of pasta, including a spicy orecchiette all’arrabbiata (ear-shaped macaroni with red pepper, garlic and tomato sauce). As far as veal entrees go, we relished the scaloppine al marsala-tender,.buttery veal that practically melted in our mouths. The involtini nicola (veal scallop tilled with prosciutto. cheese and herbs) will be appreciated by those with a taste for the spicy Italian ham, which overpowered the veal. With the exceptions of the profitterol al cioccolato (a cream-filled puff pastry dribbled with chocolate) and ice cream with Strega (an Italian liqueur), desserts should be forgotten. Service can be intimidating and out of sync with the elegance of the restaurant. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Sun, Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits La Trattoria Lombardi. After numerous visits we’re convinced this place will never be as good as the old Lombardi’s on Mc-Kinney. But La Trattoria Lombardi is, nevertheless, a worthwhile dining establishment. The homemade pasta can be of mercurial quality. Catch it on the downside and you’re eating goo; catch it on the upside and it’s almost inspirational. On recent visits we’ve had good experiences with the linguini carbonara (made with eggs, bacon, cream and parmesan) and the canelloni verdi tricolore (a double helping of canelloni, half of which is in red sauce and the other half of which is in cream sauce). On another visit, our fettuccine Alfredo was allowed to sit in its dish too long before reaching our table; an almost crusty top had formed over the rich pasta. The best pasta news is the return of shrimp canelloni, a mainstay at the old Lombardi’s. It is served in a tasty cream sauce and is one of the best items on the menu. Soups at Lombardi’s are generally superior to excellent. We had a lovely clam chowder (with a tomato base, an Italian version, if you will, of New York-style clam chowder) and a credible homemade minestrone. Lombardi’s has always done good things with veal. We recommend the veal with lemon butter, the veal marsala and the saltim-bocca Romana, in that order. The desserts are also first-rate, with the fruit tarts being the most consistent. And the service is up to its traditional standard, as good as you’ll find anywhere in this city. (2916 Hall. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



Mario’s. Forget the pizzeria-style Mama mia down-home influence that has crept into so many Italian restaurants these days-Mario’s is strictly a first-class, elaborately elegant establishment. Smooth and purposefully low-key, Mario’s is perfect for people who enjoy the experience of dining out. It’s literally impossible to be inconspicuous here-if you’re easily intimidated you might consider dining elsewhere. Since each table is attended by numerous waiters, diners can expect their every move to be monitored: Napkins will be placed in laps, cigarettes lighted, proper serving methods demonstrated, wine consultations provided upon request. Luckily, the food is worth all the pomposity. Although many of Mario’s appetizers are somewhat uninspired, the pasta dishes (most are available in either appetizer or main-course portions) and the veal entrees are all first-rate Our veal piccata was extremely tender and just lemony enough to soothe the palate. The saltimbocca alla Mario (scallops of veal with prosciutto and mozzarella in a white wine sauce) was equally impressive. And the fettuccine alla carbonara (fettuccine with ham. onion, white wine, heavy cream and fresh Parmesan) arrived piping hot-the thin, delicate noodles were practically spilling over the edge of the bowl in a subtle but satisfying sauce. For an elegantly appropriate conclusion, try one of Mario’s outstanding souffles. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Daily 6-10:30, Sat 6-midnight. Reservations. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$)



MEXICAN



Escondido. If you stick to the original eatery on Butler Street and forget the new place on Maple. you’ll find substantial stick-to-the-ribs Tex-Mex, with the chicken nachos among the best in town and the other entries up to standard no-frill, reasonable-bill Mexican food. The combination platters rate A’s for tacos, F’s for the tamales Both salsas, red and green, get A’s. Atmosphere-wise, the place looks like a Hell’s Angels habitat on the outside, and inside, the decor is late-New York subway, with spray-can graffiti all over the ceiling. So, forget the surroundings and order the chicken nachos. (2210 Butler 631-9912. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Herrera. The management of this little dump of a restaurant on Maple Avenue must have a difficult time resisting the urge to become cocky. After all, it must be a great feeling for a culinary entrepreneur to see all those gringos lined up outside, ready to sweat in the summer and freeze in the winter for an opportunity to sample some of the tasty Tex-Mex that waits inside. But despite the fact that Herrera has more customers than it can possibly serve, the food and service at the restaurant have remained consistently good. Once you’ve elbowed your way to a table (you can expect a minimum half-hour wait at peak dining hours), we suggest you go for one of the eclectic dishes like the Jimmy’s special or the Pepe’s special, both of which are virtual Tex-Mex smorgasbords. They include everything from chicken enchiladas to guacamole. Most of the mainline Mexican dinners on the menu are no-miss propositions, although we’ve had mediocre experiences with some of the fancier dishes like guizo de res and carne asada. If you like to drink beer with your meal. Herrera offers the classic good news/bad news situation. The good news is that you can bring beer and drink it in the parking lot while you wait in line; the bad news is that you’d better bring enough to drink with your meal: Herrera has no liquor license. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed, Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun till 10. Closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



Mario & Alberto. Who among us has not known Mexican restaurants at their worst: multicolored pinatas swinging low over full-masted need-some-more-tortilla-chips flags; waitresses in short, ruffled dresses. Mario & Alberto is none of the worst-it is a completely pastel dining experience, like a meal inside a great peach petit four. The dining room, lit by clusters of votive candles (we resisted an urge to say Mass) and made cheery by paper flower arrangements and color wheel placemats, may be a tad overdone, but it’s a soothing success. Mario looks like its sister restaurant, Chiquita, but the food is much better. Strong margaritas, good chips and hot sauce, chicken nachos and flautas con crema set a fine mood for main courses chosen from a vast menu (which includes everything from standard bean and taco plates to zucchini stuffed with ground sirloin). The tenderloin filet specials were tender, and filete a la pimienta was delicious. But the carne asada tampico-style could have been more vigorously seasoned. The pescado marinero, a white fish filet rolled with spinach stuffing and topped with a more-than-generous helping of oyster sauce, was tasty for a while, but a little too much of a good thing. The alambres, a shish kebab, arrived with a tasty soft taco ranchero and a potato de la casa. Desserts were smooth and well-chosen for a pastel restaurant: cinnamon ice cream and kahlua ice cream pie. (425 Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ at Preston. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 11:30-11. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)



Raphael’s. We’ve been conditioned to expect the best Mexican food from only the smallest, dimmest, raunchiest little shanties that top the health department’s “Condemn Tomorrow” list. We’ve grown suspicious of civilized Mexican restaurants, guessing that their best is only fresh from the freezer. But Raphael’s throws a kink in this philosophy. The food is better than average, the surroundings are pleasant, the prices are comparable to our favorite dives, and our tires weren’t slit while we dined. We thought for a while that Raphael’s was slipping a bit in quality, but during this visit we had few complaints. The generous portions of enchiladas rancheras were meaty and topped with a tasty tomato sauce, but other enchiladas we ordered were served with a rather ordinary cheese topping. The pescado veracruzano, a difficult dish to prepare, was not overcooked, and the sauce was well-spiced with green peppers and mushrooms. The best parts of our meal were the beginning and the end. For appetizers, try the quesadillas, especially if you are a grilled cheese fanatic. The sopapillas con fresas we had for dessert were a little short on fruit, but they filled what little room we had left. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. All credit cards. $$)



NATURAL FOODS

Marvins Garden. There is an earthy charm about this small, comfortable restaurant that we have not felt elsewhere in Dallas. During every visit, we’ve noted the number of young artist-types eating alone while reading or writing in a spiral notebook. We imagine this to be a place for radical conversation, for contemplation on Russian literature and innovative schemes to publish first short stories. We hesitate to criticize the restaurant for blandness, but the food we’ve tried has been intensely so. Our taste buds may be tainted by the flashy foods of the fast-lane establishments, and we bow to wholesomeness and grain, but with at least one selection, purity is overdone. One diner’s polite trudge through the vegetable plate was intensely flavorless. (You get what you ask for-not butter, not spice, not bread, not rice. Vegetables. Lots of ’em. Steamed). The peanut butter smoothie was a nice idea, but decidedly lacking in zeal. The Mexican offerings seem consistently good. The Sunday brunch, we hear, is a laid-back work of art. On each visit, we’ve left complaining of slow service. This time, our waitress was quicker and tried very hard to please us, but still the kitchen was slow. We won’t waste time complaining again; if you’re in a hurry and have no interest in engaging conversation, go somewhere else. (6033 Oram at Skillman. 824-5841. Sun-Thur 11-10:30; Fri & Sat 11-11. MC. V, DC. $$)



ORIENTAL



Asuka. You may feel as though you’ve waltzed into a tourist trap when the kimono-clad waitress shuffles over to your table and presents you with the menu: a photo album filled with 3 x 5-inch glossies of the food you’re about to consume. Nevertheless, eating at Asuka is a soothing experience that will transport you 1,000 miles away from the construction and congestion 50 yards outside the door. For dinner, sit Japanese-style (the setup here is easy on American lower backs) and try any one of the Kaiseki dinners. If you order something large, such as the Asuka Kaiseki, there’s no need to order sashimi or sushi (raw fish is included with the meal). We’ve also sampled the Ishiyaki Kaiseki-beef and vegetables served over sizzling stone pebbles-and found it delightful. At lunch the service is slow, but the food is just as palate-pleasing and pretty. (7136 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. Reservations. AE, V, MC, DC. $$$)

August Moon. We liked the service. We liked sitting next to a babbling fountain filled with lively, orange goldfish. But the food didn’t overwhelm us with its deliciousness. On the walls of the outer hall, August Moon’s management displays photographs of its most elaborate banquet dishes: food specially arranged in the shape of dragons and birds. The menu mentions that a catering service is readily available, so we began to get the idea that August Moon likes to save the big productions for bigger parties and bigger bucks. What you’ll get on an ordinary day is fancier than what you’ll find in a neighborhood Chinese place, but we ordered four different dishes one night and found that the flavorful sauces left on the plate after the meat and vegetables were gone all tasted the same: dull and not nearly spicy enough for our preferences. The best of the group was the spicy and tangy lamb listed as a specialty, although the snow peas in our toss-fried beef dish seemed particularly crisp and fresh. The appetizers are fun: We liked the curried beef hibachi (it’s a little like the Mosatay at Siam) and the rumaki, in particular. Our impulse to order ham-and-winter melon soup didn’t quite pay off. It tasted gingery, a little sweet and slimy, but we grew fonder of it as we got deeper into the bowl. On another luncheon visit, we sampled the Mongolian barbecue and liked it very much, although, despite the fact that it had an asterisk next to its number on the menu, the chef had obviously tempered the spiciness to suit Cream of Wheat North Dallas tastes. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11-10:30, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10:30. Reservations for eight or more. Bar by membership. AE, MC, V, DC. $$)

Fangti China 1. The features worth mentioning about this place are the service and the hours. We’ve been by at all times of the day and night and the waitresses are always chipper and cheerful. Because Fangti is open until six in the morning on weekends, it attracts an eclectic crowd ranging in attire from sophisticated to scruffy. The issue then becomes not so much good Chinese food as available Chinese food that’s not too bad. We like the soups and fried dumplings best here. The special soup and the hot and sour work well at late hours after you’ve closed your neighborhood pub at 2 a.m. The entrées, however, are inconsistent. Some look as though their components were chopped by a myopic samurai swordsman. We’ve tried a couple of the beef dishes (they tasted the same) and the prawns in hot sauce, all of which were utterly unspectacular. The paopao (pu pu) platter is no better. But the black-and-gold-flocked wallpaper gives Fangti a certain sort of charm. (Twin Bridge Shopping Center, 6752 Shady Brook Lane. 987-3877. Sun-Thur 11 am-4 am, Fri&Sat 11 am-6 am. AE, DC, MC, V.)

Sawatdee. The food has improved considerably since Sawatdee’s opening, and if your culinary tastes are inclined toward the adventurous and experimental, this is truly an excellent place to dine. But be sure to clearly indicate to your waiter how spicy you like your food. On one visit, we were mistaken for American clods and our entrees came quelled. On another occasion, our dining partner ordered the hot and sour prawn salad and then couldn’t eat it because it was too hot. We have tried all six of the appetizers and disliked only the barbecued meatballs and the pattaya crab. But the best of openers would be any of the soups; our favorite is the poa-tak for two, a pungent broth with spicy seafood components and a lemony aftertaste. Among the specialties of the house, we’ve sampled the red chicken curry, the South Seas scallop ana the dinner portion of moo satay. A nice second entree with any of the aforementioned dishes would be the crab pad chan, a lightly seasoned dish of sliver-thin noodles. Our only complete miss was the princess favorite chicken, which must have been named after a princess long dead or dishonored-the dish reminded us of the sweet-and-sour Cantonese dishes served in bad carry-out Chinese restaurants. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Daily: 11:30-11, Lunch special: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. AE, MC, V. $$)



Taiwan. This restaurant is dressier and a bit more expensive than a lot of Chinese places in town, but it stands head and shoulders above most of them when it comes to food. Owner-manager Scott Sheu is said to have brought his staff to Dallas straight from San Francisco, and there is a certain sophistication and California-like vastness to the menu. The choices, particularly in terms of appetizers and soups, are more varied here. We tried the Kuo-Teh meat dumplings and found them well worth the 15-minute wait they take to prepare. Of the seven soups, we tried the hot and sour (which was a good interpretation of its namesake), and the sizzling rice soup for two. The flaming pu pu platter is among the best we’ve had in town, and the spare ribs are unusually large and lean. The kitchen is at its best with the hot and spicy Szechuan dishes. But even our tender-mouthed friends found the unspiced entrees rather bland. We liked the Peking beef and princess shrimp and chicken. We also tried the beef sizzling iron plate and a wonderful vegetable dish of crisp snow peas, water chestnuts and peerless mushrooms. The service ranges from nerve-wrack-ingly overattentive to somewhat absent-minded. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Mon-Sat 11:30-3 am. Sun 10:30 am-11 am. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



SEAFOOD



Fausto’s. The only thing Fausto’s has going against it is that it is located in the same hotel with an expensive, bad restaurant: Antares. First-time visitors to the Hyatt Regency Hotel try Antares because of the spectacular view atop Reunion Tower and come away disappointed with the food. Hotel patrons assume that if Antares can’t serve a good meal, neither can Fausto’s. That assumption is wrong. The menu is ambitious: Tender and sweet frog legs, juicy swordfish steak, a tasty shark gumbo, poached salmon steak topped with a luscious green peppercorn sauce and an excellent version of duckling in lingonberry sauce are among the broad range of culinary triumphs. Attention is also paid to the supporting cast: marbled black and rye bread toast with Parmesan cheese that arrives before the menu, homemade pear sorbet perched atop an orange half to clear your palate before the main course, fresh strawberries stuffed with chocolate mousse after dessert, and a fine assortment of homemade soups and chowders at lunch. All this caloric decadence is served up in a darkened dining room that is one of the plushest eating areas in the city. Service is attentive but not hovering. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 657-1234. Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11; Fri & Sat 6-midnight; Sun brunch: 10:30-2:30. All credit cards. $$$$)

Seascape Inn. In only a short period this seafood restaurant has taken a position among Dallas’ finest restaurants. We’re happy to report that nothing has happened to jeopardize that standing. On recent visits we found the terrine of salmon appetizer light and subtle, its butter sauce delicate. The smoked trout was served at the perfect temperature, the flavor smoky but not overpowering. We’ve never had a bad entree, and Chef Jean LaFont’s specialties are always just that-special treats. We had a Dover sole Veronique that was light and elegant, the sauce again not overpowering, important with the elusive sole flavor. The salmon in puff pastry featured perfectly prepared fish in a pastry that was flaky and buttery. The desserts are complementary: light and flavorful, especially the homemade pies and the pecan cheesecake. Another plus at Seascape is the sommelier, Johana Ewing, who is always helpful and gracious. In fact, gracious best sums up the service and atmosphere: elegant without being pretentious. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)



S & D Oyster Company. Never mind the ever-escalating number of posh seafood restaurants in Dallas. S&D could easily survive for years just on its substantial assemblage of regulars who would much rather fight the growing crowds than switch. And understandably so; S&D consistently provides seafood cultists with uniformly superior fare. Sure, the interior isn’t quite as snazzy as many of its newer competitors and S&D’s desserts rank with the worst of the lot, but when it comes right down to it, who cares? S&D has some of the best fresh seafood in Dallas. Period. The broiled whole flounder we had (which our waiter deftly carved before us) was light and fluffy and-most important-fresh. Even the fried shrimp, which was cooked in an incredibly flavorful batter, was worth coming back for again and again. The oyster loaf sandwich (fried oysters served on a buttered bun with tartar sauce and ketchup) is a good idea, but is almost too messy and complicated to be worth the hassle. And unfortunately, it doesn’t even come with S&D’s great sides: crisp coleslaw, hush puppies and trench fries. (2707 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC. V. $$)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



The Bronx. Some people refer to it as atmosphere; others call it ambiance. Whatever it is, The Bronx has it. It would be impossible to pinpoint what The Bronx is reminiscent of-it’s somewhere between Soho chic and Southern simplicity. But whatever it is, it works: The Bronx is a great place to sit back and relax, no matter who you are. Sure, the menu is limited, but its offerings are almost always sure bets. Entree specials and vegetable choices vary from day to day. The meat loaf plate (served with a salad, vegetable and roll) can’t be beat at $4.95. Assorted quiches, omelets and salads all bear sampling, as do the daily soups (the chowder and cream of broccoli are especially tasty). And for the thirsty crowd, The Bronx has daily wine specials; not to mention the best (and biggest) glass of spiced tea around. But be prepared to wait-there’s usually a line out the door. And the service here can be unforgivably slow. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 11:30-12:30, Fri 11:30-1:30, Sat noon-1:30. MC, V. $$)

Hoffbrau. Once again we’ve found the atmosphere at this delightfully Austinesque steak shop to be its primary charm. Sink into the deep vinyl (deep because the springs are shot) booths, put your elbows on the table, have a beer and listen to the genuine Texas accents of the polyester-clad cowboys (the real kind that let you know, in case you doubted, that this is a real steak restaurant). You’ll leave as full as your Levi’s can handle for less than $10, and if you’re into leal and beautiful self-abuse, there’s a Haagen-Dazs two doors down for dessert. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, Sun 4-10. All credit cards. $$)

Kobe Steaks. This plush Japanese steak house offers combinations of steak, seafood and/or chicken. Beet is the featured attraction, and it is of the highest quality. Dinners come with delicious beef broth, a piquant shrimp appetizer and smooth green tea as well as salad and rice. But the seating arrangements, with groups of diners around the surface where the cook chops and sautes, offer all the privacy of a bus station. (15000 Quorum Drive at Belt Line off Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)



Newcomer: The Palm Bar. You can get stodgier, down-to-business lunches at a number of ’estaurants downtown, but nowhere can you find a lighter, more lovely or innovative meal then at The Palm Bar in the Adolphus Hotel, Everything is kept gracious and simple in a manner that might lead some people to assume that this is a “ladies” luncheon place, but the menu’s presentation of real foods and noteworthy tastes will appeal to downtown businessmen as well. An added bonus: no quiche! Instead you’ll find a predictable selection of salads, white tuna plates and New York deli-style sandwiches, in addition to a few surprises. Among those, we recommend the soup of the day and a pot of fresh steamed vegetables dressed in a little dab of herb butter. Our favorite alternative is the croissant sandwich with turkey or roast beef. There are daily specials and chicken breasts hunter-style for people who like heavier midday meals, but everything else on the menu is easily preparable and accessible. There is usually a line and a wait at noon. A limited menu is available through cocktail time, until 7 p.m. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Fri 11-3; cocktails until 8. All credit cards. $$)

Newcomer: Café Moustache. If this were Architectural Digest, we’d be simply appalled by the decor. So tacky. The most applicable term to describe the dining room is simply that it is “a dump ” But this isn’t Architectural Digest, and we’re glad that owners Henri Townsend and Conrad Trevinio Jr. decided to choose an old Stop N Go market as the showcase for their expert Dutch and Indonesian-style cooking. The facade alone is enough to keep away two-thirds of its potential customers. And since the food served at Cafe Moustache is some of the best we’ve ever sampled, we’re glad the owners have taken at least one step to keep the crowds from getting too big. Cafe Moustache is currently one of the best-kept culinary secrets in Dallas -that rare find our reviewers always dream of discovering. In Holland, people do wonderful things with roasted meat (Henri Townsend is a certified Dutchman). A brisket we sampled on one occasion was unbelievably tender; Linden roast (Dutch roast beef with Burgundy sauce) was one of the moistest, tastiest treatments of beef we’ve tried in a long time; and the humble beef tips with rice and gravy were anything but humble. The cafe bills itself as the purveyor of “international home cooking,” serving a different special each night, but the ubiquitous menu items are the variations of rice (or sometimes potatoes) and beef. We’ve yet to find a single version that didn’t cause us to want more. Save room for desserts. If this place doesn’t have the best Black Forest cake in Dallas, it is only surpassed by something our reviewers have yet to taste. (9454 Marsh. 350-9314. Mon-Fri 10 am-9 pm. No credit cards. $$)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



D Revisits Angelo’s. There are more cars in the parking lot here with out-of-state license plates than there are at Six Flags. Hallowed has become the name of Angelo’s among devotees of the almighty rib, and on our recent visits we found no tarnish on the image. Armadillo races and boa constrictor boots may be fine, but for a real taste of Texas, we’ll take the tender, meaty, succulent barbecued ribs served here to the rich and poor alike. For $5 75, you get a pile of ribs, beans, potato salad, coleslaw, pickle, onion, sauce and bread. The additives are not disagreeable, but neither are they inspiring, no more so than the Styrofoam plates the dinners are served on. The rules here are somewhat eccentric, but it pays to know them. Table service is in the front room only, and there only after 3:05 p.m. But unless you’re accustomed to eating in a sawmill, you’ll be better off going through the line and retreating to the back room, because the front room gets noisy. Ribs are served after 5 p.m. only. The place closes at 10 p.m., after which the price of beer doubles. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



Cattlemen’s. There are ups and downs here, but the prime steak is definitely an upper. First-time visitors are excited by the rustic Texas-style setting in the heart of the old Stockyards area. The restaurant exterior with its weathered facade promises a return to the days when this was the gathering point for the journey up the Chisholm Trail. But the interior is a letdown. There’s nothing much to see except the pictures of blue-ribbon beeves displayed to document the superb quality of meat that has been devoured here. (There’s one picture of a horse that is undoubtedly displayed for some other reason.) But when the steaks arrive, all else becomes incidental. The prime cuts of rib eye and K.C. sirloin are delectable, and the 18-ounce prime boneless strip is a third-degree sin. The Saturday night service reminded us of the service on the Braniff flight to Oklahoma City: frantic and elusive. You wouldn’t miss anything if you ate nothing but steak. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur. All credit cards. $$$)

Hedary’s. Where else in Fort Worth can you sit down to a meal of hoummus bit-tehina (chickpea dip seasoned with lemon and garlic), khyar bil-laban (sliced cucumbers in fresh yogurt) and a plate of magdoos (pickled eggplant stuffed with walnuts), followed by some kibbi mishwiyyi (crushed wheat and ground sirloin char-broiled with pine nuts and spices), and frarej (chicken and vegetables baked in olive oil and lemon juice), topped off with a slice of baklava and a cup of qahwi (a thick, aromatic Lebanese coffee brewed bitter or sweet, depending on your mood)? Hedary’s is intimate, a bit idiosyncratic and thoroughly old-fashioned in its methods. “No hot table, freezer, chemicals or can opener,” reads the menu, and we believe it. The bread is baked while you watch, and the service can be fast or slow depending on how many Hedary children are on the premises. (3308 Fairfield. Ridglea Center off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817)731-6961. Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 5-10. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)



Joe T. Garcia’s. Gone are the days of the honor system at Joe T.’s, when you went to the kitchen and helped yourself to a beer and then told the cashier, as near as you could remember, how many you had. Now customers aren’t even allowed to walk through the kitchen on their way to their tables. And there is something strangely clean about the place. No, it’s not the Joe T.’s we used to know, but we will not believe tame and fortune have disfigured this Fort Worth temple to Tex-Mex. We waited in line outside on the spooky north Fort Worth street for a full hour, but not a person in our party of 13 voiced a complaint. The industrial-strength margaritas were champions, and the family-style Mexican staples (You’ve got your beans, rice, tacos, enchiladas, tortillas and, it you must, nachos. No questions. No substitutions. That’s it.) make for an inherent good time. Time after time. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Sat 11-2:15. 5-10:30; Sun 4-10. Reservations for 20 or more. No credit cards. $$)



Reflections. The new Americana Hotel is trying hard to live up to its self-proclaimed world-class status. In our meanderings around the establishment, we have happened upon such pleasurable indulgences as complimentary crab claws and boiledshrimp during happy hour, and mixed nuts (with nopeanuts) in the lobby bar. To finance these delicacies, the hotel seems to be relying upon Reflections, its main restaurant, where entrees begin at$18 and all but two of the appetizers at $9. The co-quille bonne auberge, a mixture of lobster, scallops,shrimp and mushrooms was tasteful, but we foundthe sauce (which had the consistency of mashed potatoes), to be somewhat distracting. The roast duckling was about as exciting as leftover turkey, and thepeppercorn sauce did little to enhance it. But thefilet de boeuf au poivre was a delight; the generousportions of beef were prepared precisely as orderedand enlivened by a remarkably successful marriageof cognac and pepper sauce. The accompanyingsnow peas-fresh, crisp and mixed with mushrooms-were equally satisfying. The cream ofasparagus was clearly the cream of the crop amongthe soups. And when all is said and done, save roomfor desserts; don’t miss the fresh blueberries flownin from France and buried in whipped cream. Thefocal point of the dining room is a pool with glistening mosaic tiles covered by two inches of water. Thewaiters get a real charge out of the occasional “sophisticated ” diner who mistakes it for a dance floor. (Americana Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-9894. Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$$)

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