It has been too many years since I last visited St. Pete’s. Seconds after I bellied up to the bar, I scolded myself for not having this popular restaurant/bar on my short list. I’d forgotten the welcoming spirit of the interior: large marlins appear to dance across the brick walls; bartenders pull tap handles while chatting with customers; the hearty laugh of owner Pete Zotos echoes above the noise. The menu is equally friendly. There is a long list of appetizers to accommodate the drinking crowd, and pizzas, pastas, salads, and specials (such as chicken-fried steak and a New York strip) for diners. The signature Dancing Tuna Sandwich has not changed. A thick slab of grilled tuna simply seasoned with a cilantro-chile glaze rests between two buttered buns. It is not gussied up. The tuna does the talking. Simplicity is key here.