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Restaurant Reviews

Eat This Now: The Place at Perry’s Brown Bag Apple Pie

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Photography by Kevin Hunter Marple
Photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

As seen in the July 2013 issue. It’s now out on newsstands.

GELATO | A scoop of Talenti Tahitian vanilla bean gelato is served on the side.

PIE | Peeled and sliced Granny Smith apples are mixed with sugar, flour, and cinnamon and poured into a pie tin lined with a house-made crust (a mix of cake flour, butter, and all-purpose flour). Another slice of unbaked crust is stretched across the top and around the entire pie tin shell. The pie is placed in a brown paper bag and refrigerated for one hour. Then it is baked at 350 degrees from 45 minutes to an hour. A hole is cut in the top of the bag to allow it to vent.

BAG | Butter crusts can easily burn in the dry heat of an oven before the pie is fully warmed. To combat this, most apple pie crust recipes call for lard to help them withstand the heat. Perry’s prefers to use better in its crust. To insulate the pie, it’s baked in a brown paper bag. The result is a flavorful and perfectly cooked crust.

CARAMEL SAUCE | Extra fine granulated sugar, light Karo syrup, and water are mixed in a pot and brought to a boil, then taken off the stove and mixed with cold butter. The mixture is moved to a separate bowl, mixed with cold heavy whipping cream to temper, and then returned to the original pot. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice is added, and the pot is cooled in an ice bath.

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