I’m a little late posting Andrew’s report from last Saturday’s Cotes du Coeur. Dang e-mail. However his post is below and it’s a bobbydazzler.
[Before you read about what I hear was a fabulous evening, I’d like to take a moment to call out Dallas chefs. I get press releases on almost every charity event in Dallas and most of the names you find below participate in all or most of them. Dallas is blessed to have so many chefs who donate their time and product to local charity events. Stand and clap.]
From the keyboard of Andrew Chalk:
Saturday night was the 2010 Cotes du Coeur International Fine Wine Auction & Celebrity Chef Dinner benefiting the American Heart Association. Just to be sure there was something to eat that would please every palette the organizers got Richard Chamberlain (Chamberlain’s Steak and Chop House) to press-gang 16 of his closest professional colleagues into each doing a tapas-sized entrée for the dinner preceding the live auction. Lest they feel inclined to fly the coop they were dressed in fetching Ferrari-red chef’s jackets. The incriminating details of their private lives suitably embargoed, here is what they came up with:
Jim Severson, Sevy’s : Seared Jumbo Scallop on a Bed of Creamed Corn with Lemon-Thyme Butter & Crispy Fennel. Jim explained that he had done scallops in several previous years at Côtes du Coeur so last year switched to lamb. A howl of protest followed from fans who (bad pun coming) weren’t sheepish. The lamb wasn’t bad, they just wanted their scallops, so they are back. This was the best-cooked scallop I have had in some time. An amazing feat by his brigade considering they cooked over 1,000 of them individually.
2006 Coquerel Family Wine Estates, Terroir Coquerel, Napa, California. Owned by Dallas natives Brenda and Clay Cockerell, the mission of this winery is to produce outstanding Bordeaux style Sauvignon Blanc in the Napa Valley. How’s that for clarity in a business plan? Judging by this example, they are succeeding.
2008 Morgan Metallico Chardonnay.
David Holben, Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse. BBQ Spice Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Smoked Bacon White Bean Cassoulet & Bay Laurel Red Wine Glaze. The dim, artificial light may have caused some color shift but the tenderloin was really that pink.
Scott Romano, Charlie Palmer at The Joule: Roasted Garlic Pheasant Sausage with Salumi Braised White Beans with Red Wine Reduction.
The salumi: Pork Jowl Pastrami, air-dried Kobe eye round of beef (like a bresaola), lomo (a Spanish salt-cured pork loin rolled in smoky paprika), copa (a dry Italian style sausage). The pork jowl fell apart in the mouth despite being a brisket-like cut.
2005 CYRUS, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California
2006 Coup de Foudre, “37.2 Cuvee”, Napa Valley, California. A Merlot blend. I don’t know the origin of the name (maybe the latitude of the vineyard) but this was one of the best wines of the night.
James Johnson, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse: Seared Dry Aged Strip Loin with Mousseline Potatoes in a Red Wine Sauce.
2007 Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Pinot Noir. Robert Mondavi Winery, Reserve.
Jay Valley, eatZi’s: Creamy Lobster Polenta with Parmesan Tails and Spicy Roasted Tomato Sauce. Pick the lobster up by that stick and dip iit in the sauce. No utensils needed. One of my favorite dishes. The lobster was very tasty and not overcooked. Once again, great job by the crew considering how many they prepared.
2008 Chardonnay. Benovia. “La Pommeraie”, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California. A good Chardonnay.
2008 Morlet Family Vineyards. “La Proportion Dorée”.
Adam Rzeczkowski, Fearing’s at The Ritz-Carlton. Barbequed Texas Bob White Quail on ‘Iceberg Wedge’ with Point Reyes Blue Cheese Dressing, apple Smoked Bacon and Vine-Ripened Tomatoes. Kudos to Dean Fearing for giving the credit to Adam and to Fearing’s for the, relatively unusual choice, of quail.
Chris Svalesen, Central Market: Cheese Plate. With the line behind me I did not get a chance to write down the individual cheese names but there were about ten different types, from all over the world, and they tasted great.
Graham. Six Grapes. Like a vintage port, but with better table manners (you can drink it right of way, rather than after your children have grown). A great match with the cheese.
Scott Gottlich, Bijoux, The Second Floor: Slow Braised Shortrib Sandwiches with Profiteroles, Roasted Tomatoes and Watercress.
Cain Cuvée NV6
2007 Tuck Beckstoffer 75 Wine Company “The Sum”.
Bruno Davaillon, Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek: Braised Veal Cheeks with Organic White Grits Gratin and Anchovy Condiment. Candidate for Dish-Of-The-Night. The cheeks just dissolved in the mouth. Absolutely sublime.
In the noisy room my conversation with Bruno may have gone from the sublime to the ridiculous. It went something like :
Me: “Bruno, are you using sous vide techniques at The Mansion?”.
Bruno: “Yes, in the cooking.”
My thoughts: “So, not in the valet parking, eh?”
2007 J. Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon. “Foreshadow.”
2007 Torii Mor Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains. “Select.”
Jeffrey Hobbs. Suze: Rise e Bisi: Toro Tuna with Risotto Style Bamboo Rice with Edemame and Tassione Farms Sungold Tomatoes. Some kind of prize should go to Jeffrey Hobbs for the most culturally diverse recipe. Is this eastern or western? New American or classical Italian?
Kent Rathbun, Abacus, Jasper’s, Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen: Orange Glazed Duck, Kumquat Sweet and Sour, Chinese Black Fried Rice. Kent Rathbun’s famous iDiet continues. He is now invisible to the naked eye. Fortunately, he had to wear one of those bright red chef’s coats so we knew he was there. This dish is a classic, but updated in typical Rathbun fashion. Duck and fruit – classic. Rice – a side that’s so ubiquitous, it’s everywhere. But what does Rathbun do? He pairs the duck with kumquat (not oranges) and he uses black rice (not white). Innovative indeed.
2006 Panther Creek Cellars Pinot Noir. “20th Anniversary”. A happy anniversary indeed for this respected Oregon winery. This was one of the best wines of the night. Open and exhibiting massive red fruit flavors.
2008 Siduri Pinot Noir. Santa Lucia Highlands. Another wine among the best. Dramatically different from the Panther Creek. Very powerful, Dark fruit in the mouth. Slightly sweet.
Kerry Simon. Simon Restaurant, Lounge at Palms Place. Sheepsmilk Ricotta Gnudi with Lamb Sausage and Locano Kale Ragu and Morel Butter. Think gnocchi without any clothes on.
2005 Hidden Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Revana Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.
Richard Chamberlain Chamberlain’s Steak and Chop House and Chamberlain’s Fish Market Grill: Garlic Roast Beef Tenderloin with Truffle Cauliflower Mashers and Organic Watercress. Comfort food all dressed up. Truffle oil adds class but is always a hit with the starch. One of the best dishes of the night.
2000 Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France. Classic claret from an exceptional year. One of the best wines of the evening.
Due to time constraints I unfortunately missed:
Anthony Bombaci, Nana Restaurant: Grilled Moroccan Flank Steak with Panzanella Salad.
2006 Karl Lawrence Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Terra Valentine, Amore
Kevin Garvin and Anita Hirsch, Neiman Marcus Restaurants: Lamb Gyro, Sliced Thin on Warm Flat Bread, Served with an Isreali and Bulgur Feta Salad and Tzatzki Sauce.
2006 Hill Family Estate Pinot Noir. “Stewart Ranch”
2006 O’Brien Estate. “Seduction”
Marcus Strietzel, The Adolphus Hotel: Bacon and Wasabi Shrimp, Ginger Infused Risotto with Shitake Mushrooms and Black Vinegar Sauce.
2005 Domaine Paul Blanck Schlossburg Riesling
2009 Dr. Loosen Riesling. “Dr. L
Gerald Thompson, Rough Creek Lodge and Resort: Bourbon-Molasses Glazed “High Plains Bison” with Bosque County Cheese and Gulf Shrimp Grits.
2005 Egelhoff Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Luca Laborde Double Select Syrah.
While munching on your 17 courses you could be entertained by trapeze artists dressed and coiffed so as to make Lady Gaga look somber. It was quite a show. Stand by for results on how much the auction raised!