Well, we slept like babies on the first night–probably enhanced by the complimentary Mighty Leaf chamomile tea in the White Barn Inn lobby–so we were ready to feed the belly come daylight. After a buffet breakfast–fruit bowl, quiche, and a bread basket filled with everything from croissants to cherry almond muffins–we hit the streets of Kennebunkport. First stop: Breakwater Spa, where I darn near snoozed (that’s a good thing) through an Ultra Luxe Facial. I awoke to hunger pains, so it didn’t take long for us to stumble into Old Salt’s Pantry, in the main square. Actually, we stumbled into Old Salt’s Gifts first, where Barbara insisted we go see her son next door at the deli–after we bought a few fall foliage postcards by local photographer J. Colby. And, determined to find a lobster roll worthy of famous status, we obliged. Son John was a charmer, cooking up grilled cheese–white American cheese on white bread, thank you very much–and a lobster roll that kicked the arse of the lobster roll from the night before. (And it was a buck cheaper.) This time the sweet meat was the star; the mayo was only a condiment, the way God intended. Together with a bag of salt and vinegar Lay’s potato chips, it goes down as one of the best lunches in my travel history.