Restaurant Review: Screen Door
Chef David McMillan's tricked-up Southern fare, a view of the skyline, and a cold mint julep have saved the struggling Screen Door.
A recent ownership battle left the kitchen at Screen Door in disarray. The stylish Southern comfort food restaurant was struggling for respect. In swooped esteemed Dallas chef David McMillan, a veteran of fine dining restaurants such as Nana and 62 Main in Colleyville. Choose a high-back upholstered chair in the charming dining room or a comfortable wooden chair on the patio, which overlooks the fabulous fountain at One Arts Plaza. Dip a firm fried green tomato in a spicy Creole cream sauce, sip a mint julep served in a cold pewter cup, and watch the sun set over the Dallas skyline. The menu is full of tricked-up Southern specialties and some of McMillan’s latest concoctions, such as seared foie gras in a Southern Comfort reduction and served with grits or the barbecued beef marrow bones. I don’t know how he does it, but the fried items we tried—Mama’s chicken and chile fried catfish—were virtually greaseless. The lunch menu offers a sinful buttermilk fried quail served on waffles with a rich cream gravy. Have tickets to an event at the Winspear or the Wyly Theatre? Screen Door has a pre-theater three-course dinner for $35 from 5 to 7 pm.
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