Review: Eno’s Tavern
Here in Dallas, we live amid the golden age of pizza. Whether your taste runs toward the authentic Neapolitan of Campania Pizza, the New York pies of Coal Vines, or the gooey gourmet offerings at Fireside Pies, there exists a pizza to satisfy most any whim. Add Eno’s Tavern to that growing list. The latest Bishop Arts eatery, Eno’s does what I call the minimalist pie. The choices are few: only eight pizzas, all sporting cracker-crisp crusts. But what simple, delicious pies they are. Eno’s Original features tomato, garlic, sport pepper, mushroom, and salami. It bursts with brisk, spicy flavor. Eno’s white pie boasts garlic, basil, anchovies, tomato, and ricotta. You get the picture. No pepperoni. No Canadian bacon and pineapple. Just choice ingredients that elevate Eno’s pizzas above their greasy competitors. Eno’s takes the same approach to the rest of its menu. The house salad features peppered pork belly. Orzo pasta soaks in fragrant fennel broth. A sundae of house-made spumoni, chopped cannoli, cherries, walnuts, and cinnamon sugar might be the best in town. At Eno’s, quality—not quantity—is king. Long live the golden age.
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